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julton
climber
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Silent Parnter manual:
"Clip the carabiners into both the waist belt and leg loop strap of your
harness. If your harness uses a belay loop, clip to the same parts
that the loop goes around. Don’t clip to the belay loop."
So it explicitly says not to clip to the belay loop.
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Getch
Mountain climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Bad practice... no manufacturer recommends connecting a carabiner that way. Not sure why they would.
I emailed rock exotica. never looked into it much but a little scary. You can't use it properly with any available harness. Looks like some bad liability...
Their other two devices recommend tying with 9mm cord to your harness.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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On occasion I've used my SP attached to my belay loop (with a Skinner backup doughnut). Mostly when I get to tired of the clusterf*#k trying to get two big biners and two daisies all looped through the legloops/waistloop combo (and maybe a fifi in there too). does make things easier.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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I tried the two gridlock configuration. IMHO it is too much work. Sure with time and practice it would get easier but seemed like a PITA.
Big loop was in the harness, small loop for the SP. One gate on top one on the bottom. Difficult to put it on and take it off for sure.
Wes
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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OK, I see now why they are called "Gridlock" carabiners Wes....lol!
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Deekaid
climber
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I would like to see Ekat chime in here. I started using my SP off the belay loop after a post here by Dave Turner (who seems pretty experienced to me) saying to use the loop because it allows the SP to rotate as needed when turning side to side etc. It seems to allow the rope to feed smoother and avoids the cluster and reduces the possibility of the biners remaining in cross load after a fall.
I originally used DMM Belay Masters lockers but it was too fiddly. I now use DMM "I can't remember whats" with a 12 kn side load rating.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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My waist to face distance is pretty small so I wanted to keep the thing as far away as I could. If I was taller, I might put it on my belay loop. The belay loop is always such a cluster on a wall though..
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Deekaid
climber
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The tie in point is a cluster as well. I am 6' tall and I tested the face smack factor before trusting it. But I am definitely open to new ways. I just don't like how the biners act when put through the tie in point. But Werner will probably say I am over-thinking it.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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gridlock traffic,
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Deekaid
climber
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Rockermike
What is a Skinner back up donut?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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skinner "back-up doughnut". Extra belay loop tied out of 9/16 inch super tape. In case your main loop fails. Tod Skinner died rappelling when his belay loop failed, so I have an extra loop on all my harnesses. Overkill I know, but makes me feel good.
Norwegian has a pretty clean looking set up there. I've never done the 10 loops at once thing. I usually have two loops and the rest in a rope bucket back at the anchor. Looks like a lot of weight, but if we were looking for "easy" we'd stay home, right? ha
While we are on the subject, I've asked before but I don't think I've ever gotten a good answer; I see some people carry their slack rope in a back pack. But how do you do backup tie-ins if the rope in in a pack? Maybe don't bother with back-ups. Maybe have the rope snake out of the pack to clip in, then back into the pack. I can't see a smooth way to handle it. I I suppose a huge knot at the end of the rope would keep you from flying off the end, but I don't want to go 150' before being stopped. That's just me.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I have not used my SP yet but I would use the pack method and just pull a couple loops out. I also would rig some type of drag device so the rope can't run out of the pack, but if you are tying off, that would be unlikely.
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youri
climber
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I climbed more then 200 pitches with the sp and maybe 100 on the soloist. I personally prefer to use a small locking and a normal strait gate biner (inverted and opposed) and tie in the belay loop. I feel safe, have taken whippers and climb easier especially when I put the thing over a high knee, the rope still feeds fine. If I tie into the tie in points, the rope does not feed because of too much friction on the high knee... And yes I will die going against the manual advices but I doubt this one makes the game dangerous. I have been putting another loop to back the belAy loop before but I prefer to change harness when it is worn. changing the harness is probably the better wAy IMO...
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Deekaid
climber
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Youri, I agree. Rockermike, thanks for the reply.
edit: except I use the two DMM lockers as stated previously. The SP goes on and off fairly smooth.I have tried a few different biner set ups and they all allowed some kind of binding. I can't remember nor does it say on the biner what it is called but it was the highest rated side load locker I could find that wasn't steel.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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I haven't used a SP for years. I liked everything about it but the bulk, I just couldn't get past it.
I use a steel carabiner when soloing when it's my only biner I'm using. With the SP you wouldn't really need a steel, however, since you should be using two anyway.
My main aluminum biner is this guy...
The Pirate:
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I want one of those, Ammon, but I want you to autograph it!
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TREED
Trad climber
Gunks
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Steel locker when soloing.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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ECP...that biner is a bad mofo..i usee the same one but with that little cross loading preventer latch.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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is there any reason to prefer D's to ovals or pears? I would think D's are less prone to shifting and maybe cross-loading too
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