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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 14, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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From what I read, they diplomatically scheduled their training climbs on the Lhotse face before the Sherpas started laying fixed ropes. They thereby demonstrated their superior climbing technique yet did not interfere with anyone's livelihood. A good role model in my opinion.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 15, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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And now some very sad news.
Alexey Bolotov has died in the Khumbu icefall at 18,372 feet (5,600 m.). The details are not clear from the translation. Denis Urubko said [Google translated], "I do not know how to convey this ... today May 15 at 5:00, Alexey Bolotov going to descend on a rope ... on the edge of a sharp rock it has frayed, and Alexei fell 300m down a ravine filled with rock ... death was instantaneous."
After several rounds of acclimatization on Southeast ridge route, Alexey and team mate Denis Urubko went down to Deboche village for some rest in green-zone. Urubko reported “If everything goes as per plan, Bolotov and I will leave Base Camp early in the morning on 15th May.” They were to attempt the Southwest Face via a new route in pure alpine style once they passed above the Western Cwm at about 6550m.
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21489
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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Terrible news. Jan beat me to it. RIP. I am very sad.
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