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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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So a dude who won Piolet D'Or in the past and put up a lot of crazy routes in Alpine Style is attempting to put up a new route on Everest. Link bellow has the proposed line that they are going for. Looks pretty cool. They will go for it alpine style, with no O2 as I understand. At the moment thay are acclimating (C3 on regular route now). Will update with news as I can (since I will have to translate it into English). Cool stuff!
http://www.russianclimb.com/urubko_bolotov_everest.html
Here is Urubko's blog in English.
http://urubko.blogspot.ru/
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local1
Mountain climber
CH
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Apr 26, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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That will be a really interesting season on Everest! Those two strong alpinists and Simone Moro and Ueli Steck (I guess, they will do something on the north wall) all on the same mountain! Could be the first season since years that a new route will be climbed...
[quote]http://blog.mountainhardwear.com/no-limits/[/quote]
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Apr 26, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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^^^+1
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
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Didn't Alex Honnold already free solo that route last summer with a chalk bag?
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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Crazy. Thanks for the updates and translation!!!
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steve shea
climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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Now there's some climbing. Is not part of that the DScott/DHaston rte? Can't remember.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Apr 29, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Didn't Alex Honnold already free solo that route last summer with a chalk bag?
Nope, different route. This one he left the chalk bag behind and only used a vintage pair of 70's terry cloth wrist bands to dry his hands on. He wanted to keep it "core" while also leaving no trace.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
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Yeah, wow thanks for posting that link Munge. Sounds crazy. I guess ego of some local guides took a blow?
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orle
climber
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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In 1982 there was another Russian (much larger) team who sieged/climbed (part of) the face, more to the left of the Central Gully, heinous-looking terrain:
That's a large face BTW. Gigantic. Humongous. Colossal (like Mt. Dickey but larger)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Russians are burly...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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Seems like they acclimated, and are going down to rest before their ascent.
Denis writes about it on his blog in English. Not perfect, but very impressive for someone who does not live in English speaking country...
http://urubko.blogspot.ru
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 13, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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Thanks for the blogsite reference. I agree this is the most exciting climb happening on Everest this year, probably in several years. Not to mention they have managed to do it alpine style without pissing off the Sherpas!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
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May 13, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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Quality thread, Vitaliy.
TFPU!
~peace, Leggs
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 13, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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an FA on Everest..,right on!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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May 13, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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I wonder if the Whillans box tents are still up there?
Good luck comrades!
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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May 13, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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I have a Czech buddy who's been eyeing that line for years. He's gonna be pissed off if Russians nail it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Not to mention they have managed to do it alpine style without pissing off the Sherpas!
They have not completed their climb yet. They still have plenty of time to get death threats and rocks to their face. But hope there will be none of that on any mountains lol...
Sounds like both of them had some problems with health on this trip. But they did get up to 8000M and spent a few days there to acclimate. Hopefully they will recover and have a good time on their ascent. Would be nice to see a Russian team do a big alpine style climb.
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