What Is Trad ?????????

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Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Apr 13, 2013 - 04:03pm PT

I don't think bolting down crack is good for you.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 04:05pm PT

RGold is spot on.

The faux guide whom I mentioned up thread that wanted to bolt up the belays on classics in Eldorado was trying to graft this notion directly from his experience of the Plasir climbing tradition in Europe.

The Action Committee for Eldorado, A.C.E, is environmentally/minimal impact/minimal bolting oriented. We do have a legacy of this in the states but one can find examples on either side of the fence within the wide array of land-use models. It's worthy of an entirely separate thread which would become a juggernaut all its own and I'm sure we've had them from time to time.

Way up thread somebody broached the environmental aspect of the trad approach; in essence there are more than a few truths to this but it's not so clear-cut and I can provide some examples later if we all decide to jump on this particular trampoline. It can be a can of worms discussion because the record of trad climbers isn't entirely clean and likewise developers of many sport bolted areas have worked with land managers to do erosion control and hardened infrastructure which arguably is environmentally conscious and proactive.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Apr 13, 2013 - 04:16pm PT

Locker, sounds reasonable. Now, is that a rule or a recommendation?

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Apr 13, 2013 - 04:23pm PT

I'm going to move to Europe......sounds like Heaven.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 05:45pm PT

Eldo Baby!
Trad is alive and well here; this prolly ain't going to change for quite some time because it be protected from over-bolting.

Life on the fingertips and tippy toes with naturally protected mental puzzles abound !!!

Redgarden Wall:

Supertopo Tradman Eeyonkee puttering about on Anthill Direct in 2007:

The Bird Walk pitch:

On left corner of the photograph is Tower One, Naked Edge and Diving Board prominent:

Direct finish:

If you're into the cordless shtick, this one's pretty solid: just don't tell your mom I said so.
Last pitch as shown just above is a solid handful of laid-back goodness.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Apr 13, 2013 - 06:33pm PT

Trad climbers have all the silly ass rules.
Like Yabo used to say: Stonemaster must never, under any circumstances ever use a roach clip.

That's because Yabo so clearly understood and epitomized the principle that your experience of and expression of mastery of a medium are optimized by minimizing the technology!

"Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity." Yvon Chouinard & Tom Frost

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 06:44pm PT

Bingo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Apr 13, 2013 - 06:46pm PT

Only been to Eldo once. 1986 I wanted to do the Bastile but charlie proclaimed it a tourist route so we did Yellow Spur and a 10d left of a 12a both left of yellow spur. Got to watch a solo of the bastile and some crazy rear engin plane that flew through the caynon below us.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Apr 13, 2013 - 06:59pm PT

Trad is never having to say you are sorry.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Apr 13, 2013 - 07:11pm PT

Hey, it's not THAT f*#king funny!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 07:13pm PT

The hell it's not!
Trad is never f#cking having to say you are sorry™♥

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 07:17pm PT

Tradman: may have been Disappearing Act, shallow right facing corner, sort of steep, you know, steep for Trad.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Apr 13, 2013 - 07:19pm PT

That's more like it Locker!

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Apr 13, 2013 - 07:20pm PT

Is this steep for trad?

Wait, no, is this steep for trad?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 07:22pm PT

Mark Force said:
That's because Yabo so clearly understood and epitomized the principle that your experience of and expression of mastery of a medium are optimized by minimizing the technology!

So I take it that you read my excerpt from:
How to be a Rad Trad Dad 2nd edition?

Don't make me repost it dude: but I will if I have too …

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 07:24pm PT

Trad is never f#cking having to say you are sorry™♥

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Apr 13, 2013 - 07:25pm PT

Riposte it, riposte it! Wait, this is blogging, not fencing. Repost it, repost it!

Peter Croft? Trad, gear placing, onsight 5.13? He's a superhero!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 07:32pm PT

Excerpt from How to be a Rad Trad Dad 2nd edition:

"Copping a Credible Trad-Itude"

Tip #5.11: when approached, always down rate like shitt, then tie it up with a transparent false-modesty chaser.

Example:
Q:

Hey T-Bird ... How was 4th of July Crack?

Floated it in shorts, no shirt & a Stetson ... felt like a helium baloon with nothin' but contempt for string and forefinger ... 'dunno where them Wyomin' boys git their ratings ... felt like 10D... maybe I just had a good day.

Tip #5.11D : If higher up in the pecking order, just flatly dismiss the challenge:
Q:

Hey Bachar ... How was Ball Hair Singeing Waltz? ... You know, that flared seam over by Death Ride...

Eh ... Not that bad...