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Messages 21 - 40 of total 45 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 08:14am PT
The 100' road route is up road from Antenna after a bridge and on a turn where the road swings back N/E toward PB. Easily visible on G/earth.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 08:28am PT
BR Dome is just west and north of 1-Pitch Wonder

Pay at the Pump. Gives some degree of orientation to Road Gold to it's...
Pay at the Pump. Gives some degree of orientation to Road Gold to it's left
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 08:46am PT
1-Pitch Wonder
1-Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
DaveyTree, thanks for the additional photos and beta - I've updated the list, including the main satellite view.
"The monkeys are sharing!" :-)
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Tks for putting it all together Clint. Much bigger response than I expected. Hope more chime in. The funny thing is, with all the good beta and topos, I never got a answer for my original question about 1-Pitch Wonder.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:38am PT
looking at the photo of Antenna Rock helps me be more specific. Mike and I did climb the route marked in purple, but did not name it that I recall. The route starts at the toe of the buttress and goes up a thin crack below the purple line, and visible in the photo. Pretty easy, perhaps some delicateness at the beginning.

We only climbed that route in order to put a top rope on Crescent Arch crack which is on the vertical face below and to the right. This face is visible in the photo, and the crack would be about where the question mark is. The crack starts from the roofs below, arches up through a clean face and then onto the slabs above. If the photo had been shot from 50 feet to the right, the Crescent Arch would be dramatically obvious. I think the crack was 10.d ish thin hands. Borrelli fired it and then I struggled on it. There is a potential route from the ground up to the Arch, which we admired, but it looks quite difficult, blocky, overhanging, and heavily defended by poison oak.

We also attempted and failed at the severely overhanging route near the top of the photo in the center. Flaring crack that started hard and then went offwidth as it got overhanging. Good challenge for the widemasters.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:52am PT
Clint, the FA of the route on the "upside down boot/foot" was Tim Schiller and Mike Althouse, in addition to me. You are correct, however, that I did a free solo ascent in 1972, including freeing a portion where we placed a few pins for aid in 1970. It's amazing how much one's ability improves in two years!

John
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 8, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Another view of Antenna
Another view of Antenna
Credit: DaveyTree
Closer view of Crescent
Closer view of Crescent
Credit: DaveyTree

Here you go Paul. These show it a little better, I hope
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 8, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
View of BR reservoir from the top of 1-Pitch Wonder
BR Reservoir from 1-PW
BR Reservoir from 1-PW
Credit: DaveyTree
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 01:27am PT
Thanks, Paul and John - I've updated the list.

Antenna Rock
Antenna Rock
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
Here is the new Antenna Rock overlay - are the lines for the headwall and for Crescent Arch about right?
I assumed Crescent Arch is a right-facing corner which arches to the right.

Maybe the overall line is easier to see in DaveyTree's photo from Balch Camp, which is not as foreshortened.
Antenna Rock, from Balch Camp
Antenna Rock, from Balch Camp
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 9, 2013 - 05:06am PT
Clint, from looking at the rock I believe Crescent is a bit more to the right. Look at the the other two pics of Antenna. It shows a pretty clean line/lyback up from the bushes. Paul will have to give the bless on it to be sure.

Tks again for the efforts
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 9, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
The Crescent Arch crack is simply not visible in those photos. Wait till someone uploads a photo from more to the right. It starts from the overhangs that are visible and goes up the blank face. The orange line that you have drawn is close but too far right I think. The actual crack is in the middle of that smooth, vertical face.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
Thanks, Paul - I have modified the photo overlay to mention that the Crescent Arch crack is not visible in this particular photo, and used a dotted line to show the approximation location.

Davey, yes, I saw those other corners to the right in your photo too. Lots of rock there.

I also included Guy's photos of Black Rock Dome.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 29, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Close up of Crescent Arch.
Crescent Arch. An off fingers, thin hands crack on Antenna Rock in the...
Crescent Arch. An off fingers, thin hands crack on Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area. Mike Borrelli and I top roped this crack, lowering down from above and did not attempt a start from the ground. The base is heavily guarded by poison oak.
Credit: Paul Martzen

Wider view of the same area.
Another view of part of Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area.
Another view of part of Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area.
Credit: Paul Martzen

Area just to the right.
Further to the right at Antenna Rock.
Further to the right at Antenna Rock.
Credit: Paul Martzen
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Thanks for the Crescent Arch photos, Paul - very nice.
I inserted them into the main list.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 3, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Jus saw the updates. Nice! Now I am actually looking forwardto wnter. Hahaha
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Jun 5, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
Black Rock Dome from the air.
Black Rock Dome from the air.
Credit: Flydude
Started a route with Glenn McHam on the right side from the base last fall. One heck of an approach and a lot of rattlesnakes at the bottom!
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jul 28, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
I was looking at the One Pitch Wonder rocks and recognized it as something we did back in 1991. It is also known as Power Line Crag, but maybe OPW is a better name? Routes were done ground up with 1 1/2" X 1/4" Rawl-Drive button heads, with SMC stainless hangers. These could probably stand to be replaced.
#54 Was put up by Sam Gitchel and Dennis Morgan. Done in 2 pitches all natural pro. Feb. 91
#55 Chicken Headed AKA Knobblely Dogs. Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig. Jan. 91
#56 OPW Center AKA Kibbles and Bits. Chambers, Reeves, Ludwig. Jan. 91
#57 OPW Right. Chambers, Bruce Boe. Feb 91

Also, the Far right, 4 pitch route, on the Wedding Wall is called Welcome to Wedding Wall 5.8 at the bulge of first pitch. Upper pitches are quite well run out on 5.7 R/X Ludwig, Reeves, Chambers. Jan. 91

Be Safe, and Have Fun,

Barry





Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 28, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
thanks for the history Barry!

I was just driving thru your neck of the woods today on the way back from a trip in SNF.

Did you guys get smoked by the aspen fire?
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Yes Sir! That Aspen wildfire is terrible. The smoke was much better today, so I think they have a real handle on it now. I mostly stayed indoors for a couple of days. Went to Courtright Reservoir Saturday with a couple buddies of mine to climb powerdome. At 8,100 feet elevation the smoke was almost even worse up there. We shook our heads, turned around, and drove home.
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