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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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DaveyTree, thanks for the additional photos and beta - I've updated the list, including the main satellite view.
"The monkeys are sharing!" :-)
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Tks for putting it all together Clint. Much bigger response than I expected. Hope more chime in. The funny thing is, with all the good beta and topos, I never got a answer for my original question about 1-Pitch Wonder.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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looking at the photo of Antenna Rock helps me be more specific. Mike and I did climb the route marked in purple, but did not name it that I recall. The route starts at the toe of the buttress and goes up a thin crack below the purple line, and visible in the photo. Pretty easy, perhaps some delicateness at the beginning.
We only climbed that route in order to put a top rope on Crescent Arch crack which is on the vertical face below and to the right. This face is visible in the photo, and the crack would be about where the question mark is. The crack starts from the roofs below, arches up through a clean face and then onto the slabs above. If the photo had been shot from 50 feet to the right, the Crescent Arch would be dramatically obvious. I think the crack was 10.d ish thin hands. Borrelli fired it and then I struggled on it. There is a potential route from the ground up to the Arch, which we admired, but it looks quite difficult, blocky, overhanging, and heavily defended by poison oak.
We also attempted and failed at the severely overhanging route near the top of the photo in the center. Flaring crack that started hard and then went offwidth as it got overhanging. Good challenge for the widemasters.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Clint, the FA of the route on the "upside down boot/foot" was Tim Schiller and Mike Althouse, in addition to me. You are correct, however, that I did a free solo ascent in 1972, including freeing a portion where we placed a few pins for aid in 1970. It's amazing how much one's ability improves in two years!
John
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Here you go Paul. These show it a little better, I hope
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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View of BR reservoir from the top of 1-Pitch Wonder
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 04:27am PT
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Thanks, Paul and John - I've updated the list.
Here is the new Antenna Rock overlay - are the lines for the headwall and for Crescent Arch about right?
I assumed Crescent Arch is a right-facing corner which arches to the right.
Maybe the overall line is easier to see in DaveyTree's photo from Balch Camp, which is not as foreshortened.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Clint, from looking at the rock I believe Crescent is a bit more to the right. Look at the the other two pics of Antenna. It shows a pretty clean line/lyback up from the bushes. Paul will have to give the bless on it to be sure.
Tks again for the efforts
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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The Crescent Arch crack is simply not visible in those photos. Wait till someone uploads a photo from more to the right. It starts from the overhangs that are visible and goes up the blank face. The orange line that you have drawn is close but too far right I think. The actual crack is in the middle of that smooth, vertical face.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 02:45am PT
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Thanks, Paul - I have modified the photo overlay to mention that the Crescent Arch crack is not visible in this particular photo, and used a dotted line to show the approximation location.
Davey, yes, I saw those other corners to the right in your photo too. Lots of rock there.
I also included Guy's photos of Black Rock Dome.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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Close up of Crescent Arch.
Wider view of the same area.
Area just to the right.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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Thanks for the Crescent Arch photos, Paul - very nice.
I inserted them into the main list.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jus saw the updates. Nice! Now I am actually looking forwardto wnter. Hahaha
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Started a route with Glenn McHam on the right side from the base last fall. One heck of an approach and a lot of rattlesnakes at the bottom!
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jul 29, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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I was looking at the One Pitch Wonder rocks and recognized it as something we did back in 1991. It is also known as Power Line Crag, but maybe OPW is a better name? Routes were done ground up with 1 1/2" X 1/4" Rawl-Drive button heads, with SMC stainless hangers. These could probably stand to be replaced.
#54 Was put up by Sam Gitchel and Dennis Morgan. Done in 2 pitches all natural pro. Feb. 91
#55 Chicken Headed AKA Knobblely Dogs. Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig. Jan. 91
#56 OPW Center AKA Kibbles and Bits. Chambers, Reeves, Ludwig. Jan. 91
#57 OPW Right. Chambers, Bruce Boe. Feb 91
Also, the Far right, 4 pitch route, on the Wedding Wall is called Welcome to Wedding Wall 5.8 at the bulge of first pitch. Upper pitches are quite well run out on 5.7 R/X Ludwig, Reeves, Chambers. Jan. 91
Be Safe, and Have Fun,
Barry
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 29, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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thanks for the history Barry!
I was just driving thru your neck of the woods today on the way back from a trip in SNF.
Did you guys get smoked by the aspen fire?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jul 30, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Yes Sir! That Aspen wildfire is terrible. The smoke was much better today, so I think they have a real handle on it now. I mostly stayed indoors for a couple of days. Went to Courtright Reservoir Saturday with a couple buddies of mine to climb powerdome. At 8,100 feet elevation the smoke was almost even worse up there. We shook our heads, turned around, and drove home.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Thanks for all the info, Barry.
The former mystery of these routes is what caused these threads and all this info to come together, so the circle is complete in a way.
I updated the list and the overlay:
If you happen to come up with other names for the left and right routes, I can update again, of course.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 30, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
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This is so cool. I may have to return to Ca, this winter!
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