Patterson Bluff - online guide

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Messages 41 - 56 of total 56 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
Thanks for all the info, Barry.
The former mystery of these routes is what caused these threads and all this info to come together, so the circle is complete in a way.
I updated the list and the overlay:
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
If you happen to come up with other names for the left and right routes, I can update again, of course.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
This is so cool. I may have to return to Ca, this winter!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Let me know if you do, Jay! Unfortunately, the smoke from the Aspen fire is so thick, I can barely see to the foothills today, but for the last two weeks I've had a great view of the western end of the Bluffs on my drive home.

John
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Aug 4, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
Hi Clint,

I'm sorry, a couple of corrections it seems, my wife clued me in on. It seems that my right hemisphere just fills in the blanks with no apparent reason sometimes. I do beg your pardon.

The route that I had labeled Kibbles and Bits turned out to be Knobbles and Bits. This route and the route Knobblely Dogs was put up in April of 1992.

It seems that the left and right most routes on the One Pitch Wonder rocks were done in May 92.

The right most route is called The Price is Right, and was done by Chambers, and Bruce Price. Not Bruce Boe as I had originally labeled.

And the Welcome to Wedding Wall route was done in April 92 as well. One thing I do remember is that the late Eric Brand and Herb Laeger(he is still with us) were putting up, with a Bosch, the route that was to the immediate left of the route we were on. I don't think I'm making this part up.

Good luck,

Two-shoes
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 8, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
Cool sh#t, climbing related, style bump!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 30, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
Bump to hear anyone who went up this winter. Almost getting too hot to head up there.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 30, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
That place looks really awesome.

Clint great job on the guide.
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
May 25, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
I just happened to remember, when we first came across that One Pitch Wonder crag, Kevin Ludwig immediately free-soloed the center most chimney and down climbed the right most chimney. It could have been in the reverse order though? I think he did that while wearing converse high-tops. Two days later he free-soloed the Big Swaaa after top roping it the previous day. He shoed up for that one and actually tied his shoes. He used to boulder out some amazing things while wearing his tennies or not even pulling his laces tight on his climbing shoes. He never does anything that rad or scary anymore.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 27, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
Cool Berry. So between Knobblely Dogs and Knobbles & Bits we have Ledwig Rising and between Knobbles & Bits & The Price is Right we have Downward Dog-Ledwig??? Haha

Thanks for the info. I figured those had been climbed. There is a book to the right of Probably Did that must have been done as well.

PS Berry, You taught Jake well.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 8, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
Cool content bump
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 8, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
Nice work Clint. That's a big area with great rock.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 21, 2015 - 09:11am PT
wooty woot woot, Things to keep The training stoke High - thnxs Clint!

&

Jaybro and DMT
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Dec 21, 2015 - 09:30am PT
That place looks amazing!

I hate ticks.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 21, 2015 - 09:33am PT
Did the recent fires clear out any of the PO and brush that guards the approach?????


DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Feb 3, 2016 - 01:43pm PT
Bump for any activity up there. Duck season is over so my eyes are on the hills. Once in shape I think a few visits will be in order with all the snow blocked roads higher up.

Clint, You can add Ludwig's solos up and down the two chimneys on OPW that Barry mentioned a couple posts back. I don't have a clue for ratings.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 22, 2016 - 08:11am PT
Had a great time at Patterson with Paul Amico this last Sunday. Always amazed at the amount of rock up there.

Had to work Saturday so we didn't get on the road until 4:45pm. Sent off texts to friends to make them jealous. Had enough time to drive around and scout before dark. All the creeks and falls are getting after it up there and are beautiful.
Road Gold
Road Gold
Credit: DaveyTree

Patterson Left
Patterson Left
Credit: DaveyTree

the Falls
the Falls
Credit: DaveyTree

Last light by the falls
Last light by the falls
Credit: DaveyTree

Since we only had about half a day we decided on Down Under Dome.

DU Dome
DU Dome
Credit: DaveyTree

Scored my favorite camp spot overlooking a stream but was really sad to see all of the dead trees in the area.

Camp spot #1
Camp spot #1
Credit: DaveyTree


The fire had only burned on the opposite side of the gorge. We had a nice fire in the burn barrel with good drinks along with salad and BBQ venison, tooo good. I forgot my insulated bibs so I scrounged one of my wife's Easter table clothes once the wind kicked up.

Easter Pants
Easter Pants
Credit: DaveyTree

After morning coffee and breakfast we parked off the road above the DU dome and rapped off the bumper to find the top anchors of No Oaky I helped put up in 13' with Matt Schutz and Danny Grey. I had forgotten my ropes so I rapped on a fixed 30m and found it didn't reach the anchors from the truck bumper by about 10'-15'. Tied on another shorty and made it. Paul followed to the anchors.

Easy Approach
Easy Approach
Credit: DaveyTree

Rapped down 90' to a pillar to climbers right of No Oakey and found a nice ledge. I was surprised to find an old 1/4" leeper on the top of the ledge which looked to have been used to rap down after climbing to the top from one of several different ways.

Old Leeper
Old Leeper
Credit: DaveyTree

Paul rapped down as well and we pulled the rope. I had planned to rap down to the ground and climb up to the ledge but it was beyond dirty with wet moss, DG and trees. Probably will go back and clean it when it is not wet.

Only option was up off the ledge. Headed up and left slightly then up a white streak and eventually placed some anchors. Placed 3 bolts on the lead and had 2 cam placements. Called it Sunday Funday 5.7; 105'.

Sunday Funday FA
Sunday Funday FA
Credit: DaveyTree

We rapped back down because Paul wanted to climb another line. He is new to FAs but has caught the bug. He TRd the line and I did also. Found a pretty succulent on the route.

Route Plant
Route Plant
Credit: DaveyTree

We talked and discussed the best places for bolts and I bolted it on rap. It went 5.8 with 4 bolts and a slung knob for 105'. Paul lead it out and called it Tickle My Tick Head for the tick I had to dig out of his leg with a knife that morning.

Tickle My Tick Head
Tickle My Tick Head
Credit: DaveyTree

Sun had heated the rock and us. It was time for beer and snacks so we headed up and out. Scouted more on the drive back and took plenty of pics. Great time with perfect weather and many lines to return to.

Additional Routes
Additional Routes
Credit: DaveyTree

Sunday Funday 5.7, 105', 3x gear to 3", FA: Fries/Amico 03/20/16
Tickle My Tick Head 5.8, 105' & shares anchor with Funday, 4x and knob sling, FA: Amico/Fries 03/20/16.
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