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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Here's an attempt to collect info on all the routes mentioned in the several Patterson Bluff threads:
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2101621/Patterson-Bluff most recent thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1885102&tn=100 bits of info
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1046600/Name-this-Central-Sierra-Crag Rene's earlier thread
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0 Jaybro's photos and driving directions, March 2010 trail work to Balch Camp Flake from road on right
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=478.0 AAJ descriptions from Ed
http://widefetish.com/features/jays_wws/jays_wws.html Jaybro's magazine article on JCA's Wide World of Sport w/ action photo another photo
http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/ topos on Rene's site
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&q=Balch+camp+ca&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Balch+Camp,+CA&gl=us&ei=1XokS_HeApDssQObjMHgDg&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CAgQ8gEwAA google map for Balch Camp, CA
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=36.91188201797823&lon=-119.06793594360351 NWS weather/temperature forecast (Balch Camp Flake, 4200')
I moved it here so that I can continue to edit it beyond the usual 10 day limit.
I'll update it if people have corrections/additions.
[Update #16: 5/08/2017]
Patterson Bluff rock climbing
Near Balch Camp, 4000-6000' elevation, poison oak, ticks, mountain lions.
Rappel approaches from top.
Info from supertopo.com, widefetish.com, AAJs.
Shorter crags below Patterson Bluff
Road Gold (right by the road, 2000' elevation)
1. Pay at the Pump 5.12b, off-fist inversion roof crack, 2 bolt anchor
FA: Jay Anderson
slab up road from Road Gold (1/4 mile up road from Road Gold)
2. One Way or Another, 2p, traverse under big roof
FA: Paul Martzen, Mike Borrelli
Antenna Rock (above the road on a sharp corner, directly above Balch Camp, rappel from antenna base)
3. Antenna Rock Headwall, open project, flaring crack to overhanging ow
4. approach crack, to set up toprope on Crescent Arch
FA: Mike Borrelli, Paul Martzen
5. Crescent Arch 5.10d TR, thin hands, possible start from ground looks hard and has poison oak
FA(toprope): Mike Borrelli
Rebar Pillars (steel rebars on top, poison oak at base)
6. Left Rebar Pillar 5.9, 100', several old hangerless bolts
7. Right Side of Left 5.10a/b TR, 100', crack to thin face
FA(TR): Paul Amico, David Fries, 4/2017
8. Right Rebar Pillar 5.10a, 100', 4x, old bolts
Patterson Left
google map version of Dave's map - from Shaver Lake to top of Patterson Left
Google avoids one section south of "(B)", and Dave's map is 10 years old, so road maintenance might be an issue?
Patterson Left - Back Wall (left of gully and Sunset Buttress, 5000-6000')
9. The Way of the Dragon 5.11 A0, 10p, aid is short bolt ladder, AAJ 2002, p.207, beta, topo
FA: Brandon Thau, Joe Reichert, Dave Nettle, 10/2001
Patterson Left (Indian Point, Ross Crossing Road to top closed in winter, can rappel or descend gully, 5000-5800')
10. escape route, 3-4p, just left of Sunset Buttress, right of gully between Back Wall and main bluff
FA: Paul Martzen, Richard Leversee, 1985
11. Sunset Buttress 5.10 A2, 9p, prow, AAJ 1986, p.156, partial topo
FA: Paul Marzen, Richard Leversee, 3/1985
12. The Sun Also Rises 5.12c, 10p, free version of Sunset Buttress, AAJ 1995, p.156, topo
FA: Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers, Richard Leversee, 9/1994
13. Raptors of the Steep 5.9 A2+, 8p, topo
FA: Scott Thelen, Brandon Thau, Richard Leversee, Mark Leffler, 11/1999
14. Some Assembly Required 5.11, 9p, topo
FA: Dave Nettle, John Fehrman, 9/2000
15. Under the Gun 5.11 A1, 8p, joins last pitch of Under the Knife, topo
FA: Richard Leversee, Dave Nettle, Brandon Thau, 8/1999
16. Under the Knife 5.12b, 9p, mostly bolted, 2 5.12 pitches, ends at Knife Flake, 2x gear to 2", 1x #5 cam, 15 draws
FA: Scott Thelen, Richard Leversee
17. 50 lbs of Crack 5.12a/b, 8p, topo1 topo2
FA: John Wason?, Ron Felton, 10/1996
FFA: ?
18. Some Restrictions Apply 5.10+, 7p, topo
FA: Richard Leversee, Dave Nettle, Brandon Thau, 8/1999
19. The Face that Launched 1000 Clips 5.12c/d, 11p topo
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Brand, Richard Leversee
20. La Cara Perfecta (Ten) 5.10c, 14p, topo, messier topo which includes lines for 1000 Clips and Eleven
FA: Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee, 6/1998
21. Eleven 5.11b/c
22. Millenium Falcon 5.12 A0
left of Wedding Wall
23. Dimaxicon, 1p
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, late 1980s or early 90s
24. Horrendicon, 1p, fairly hard, high first bolt
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, late 1980s or early 90s
Wedding Wall (central slab/apron, above creek, right side of Patterson Left, 4600-5200')
25. In Slickness and in Stealth 5.11a/b, 4p, low angle and looks easy but is not, made aluminum hook for lead drilling on this route
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Julie Lazar, late 1980s or early 90s
26. another WW route 5.11a/b, 3p or 4p, Herb and Kris did about 15 new routes at Patterson
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Julie Lazar, late 1980s or early 90s
27. just left of WWW, w/ Bosch
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Brand, 4/1992
28. Welcome to Wedding Wall 5.8, 4p, crux at bulge on p1, upper pitches 5.7 R/X
FA: Kevin Ludwig, Leni Reeves, Barry Chambers, 4/1992
unsure location
29. Wrecked 'Em and Eject 'Em, ow
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Tom Marshall, late 1980s or early 90s
30. Digital Exam 5.11, fingerlock splitter to right
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Tom Marshall, late 1980s or early 90s
Patterson Right
Patterson Falls Apron (far left side of Patterson Right, apron right of the falls, obvious "upside down leg/boot" pillar with long LFC on L side, in 1970 a trail with built up switchbacks existed from the base back to within 100 feet of the road, 3800-4600')
31. Victory at Sea 5.8 A2, 3p, up path of dry Patterson Falls
FA: Larry Zulim, Bob Simmons, by 1987
32. middle pillar 5.8, 5p or 6p, 2-3p up middle of "upside down leg/boot" pillar with 5.8 move at top, 3p slabs above with no anchors
FA: John Eleazarian, Tim Schiller, Mike Althouse, 12/1970
FFA: John Eleazarian (free solo), 1972
33. middle black intrusion, middle arching black intrusion, one bolt at headwall and thin cracks above, could use some bolts
FA: Paul Martzen
Balch Camp Flake (4200', a trail with green flagging from road from the southwest was cleared in March 2010, and becomes overgrown, poison oak and ticks. It may be better to make multiple raps from top of cliff after 60 minute hike on old road)
34. A Side of Wide 5.10d, bolt protected chimney start, left of Balch Camp Flake
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997
35. TPL var. start 5.12a, thin hand crack, front side of Dracula
FA(aid): Paul Martzen
FFA: Jaybro?
36. The Passionate Life 5.11c, 2p, ow and squeeze, camalots 4x4 2x4.5 2x5, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, 2/1997
37. JCA's Wide World of Sport 5.12b, 2p, ow and squeeze, 16x + gear, topo
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Brad Jarrett, 3/1995
38. Balch Camp Flake - Original Route, right edge of the flake, bolt ladder to horn lasso, then more bolts, AAJ
FA: George Sessions, Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, Mark Powell, 1954
39. Flicker of Time Arete 5.9 A0, starts on Original Route bolt ladder,
then free climbs arete above, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997
Balch Camp Flake - inside face
40. backside of JCA WWS 5.11a?
FA: Richard Leversee
41. backside of The Passionate Life 5.11c
FA: Richard Leversee
42. Dracula Crack 5.9, backside of TPL 5.12a var. start, hand and fist crack
FA: Dwight Kroll, Ryan?, 1981
43. big seam just right of Balch Camp Flake, protected by line of bolts
Three Pillars (just right of Balch Camp Flake, R/3rd pillar is tallest, 2-3 raps from reflectors to top of 3rd pillar, 4200-4700')
44. Pablo's Cruise 5.7/5.8, 3p, gulley on L side of 1st pillar to top of 3rd pillar, then left to black dike and up 3p of slabs
FA: Paul Martzen
45. face above Pablo's Cruise, toproped, person-sized scallops, very unnerving friction mantles
46. Sex and Drugs 5.9, crack between 1st and 2nd pillars
47. Oroborus Crack 5.10c A2?, S-shaped crack on 2nd pillar, aid seam (might go free at 5.12) to 5.10c fingers past roof, then 5.9 hands to ledge, and lieback to top
FA: Paul Martzen
48. Storm Drain 5.8, gully between 2nd and 3rd pillars, to bushy tree at top
49. right LFC 5.10c/d, right of 2 LFCs on lower half of 3rd pillar
FA: Paul Martzen
The Blob (right of 3 Pillars, blobish rock with 3 cracks)
50. Crescent Crack, left crack, arches to right, goes halfway up Blob, rope cut on FA by loose block
FA: Mike Borrelli, Paul Martzen
51. Scary Monsters 5.10b, left leaning hand and fist, center crack
FA: Paul Martzen, Mike Borrelli, 1981
Down Under Dome (below Black Rock Road, before Black Rock Reservoir, 3800-4000')
52. Safe to Dance 5.10b, 1p, 3x, 70', far L side ("Safety Dance"?)
FA: Paul Martzen, Bob Simmons
53. No Oakey 5.10b, 2p, 1: 5.10b 90', 2: 5.8 110', L of middle pillar/book
FA: Danny Grey, Matt Shutz, David Fries, 3/2013
54. Sunday Funday 5.7, 105', 3x gear to 3"
FA: David Fries, Paul Amico, 3/2016
55. Tickle My Tick Head 5.8, 105' & shares anchor with Funday, 4x and knob sling
FA: Paul Amico, David Fries, 3/2016
Up Over Boulder (above turnout for Down Under Dome)
56. toprope routes, 2 bolts on top
Big Schwaaa Gorge (below Down Under Dome, flat bench of pine trees on top, 3600')
57. The Big Schwaaa 5.11d, thin hands
FA(toprope): Jorge (Tuckess) Menchu
FL: Mike Latendresse
58. really thin crack, tried by Larry Zulim
59. wide corner crack
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder (just past reservoir, west of Black Rock Road, behind the power lines, 4500')
60. Probably Did 5.9, 180' crack, rap from manzanita or walk off west down small gully
FA: Sam Gitchel, Dennis Morgan, 5/1992
61. Knobblely Dogs 5.10b/c, 1/4" bolts w/ SS SMC hangers to chains, chickenheads, 40-45m
FA: Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig, 4/1992
62. Ludwig Rising 5.6?, central chimney
FA: Kevin Ludwig, 4/1992
63. Knobbles and Bits 5.11a/b, lieback 15-20' to first bolt, 45-50m
FA: Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig, 4/1992
64. Downward-Dog Ludwig 5.6?, right side chimney, was downclimbed
FD: Kevin Ludwig, 4/1992
65. The Price is Right 5.9/5.10, rating guess, several cracks to anchors 25m up, then continue to top
FA: Barry Chambers, Bruce Price, 5/1992
Black Rock Dome (north and slightly west of Power Line Crag, gnarly bushwhack approach from NW, 6400-7000')
66. Bad Day at Black Rock 5.10+, 4p, in center, 1: knobs and bolted face, then cracks and face climbing next to chimney, AAJ 1997
FA: Jim Zellers, Pete Taylor, Richard Leversee, 8/1996
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Hey Clint, Great and thorough job as usual! I talked to Larry Zulim tonite and he told me about a climb not on the list. Its all the way over on the left side, up the waterfall that was dry at the time. "Victory at Sea" 5.8 A2 3 pitches, done by Larry Zulim and Bob Simmons. Not sure of the date.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 12:46am PT
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Chris,
Thanks to your site, for making this type of project possible!
I hope you get a chance to check it out and dodge the poison oak as well.
Rene,
Thanks - I added "Victory at Sea". The date is somewhat bounded by Bob's passing.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/131168/Anybody-remember-Bob-Simmons
And thanks for your efforts in posting the topos and descriptions from Paul that started this.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Radish, thanks for the update. I get pumped hearing about all the routes people have done. I am sure there is a lot more..... just hoping not all the lines I have picked out....hahaha
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice work Clint, & all!
A side of wide, Leversee put in The initial bolts, then I led the FA/FFA (same ascent) followed by Anne Yeagle, Cotter, & Mr Big(?)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Oh Randisi, there's still plenty of adventure left out there.
heck even this thread will probably drop below the radar at some point.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Threads like this are one of the great things about supertopo. Thank you guys for pooling the resources!
I think showing what's already been done encourages adventure. Kinda like how I get guidebooks to see what's NOT in them. You can't go into the unknown without knowing what's known, if that makes sense. Well, you could purposely ignore info to make things more difficult for yourself, but that's not what I think of as adventure.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Dito Crab. Although you could be one that shares nothing and then when someone puts up an FA, you can pop their balloon by then coming out with the original FA. "Sorry, already been done"
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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TR: Just got back from Patterson with Chris Rocca and will post pics as I go through them. Headed to D.U. Dome to work a few lines. Decided to warm up on a short rock above the turn out on top of dome. Found anchors on top and TR a bit.
I got a headache and felt sick and realised I hadn't eaten. I ate and scratched the D.U. plans. Went up to the one pitch rocks above BR turn. Until someone has a better name.I'm calling '1-pitch wonder'.
Chris and I both climbed a bit on the left most, heavily chicken headed, bolted rout(3 total). One oneach of the separate rocks. The left is about .10b/c. Middle prob easy to mid .11 and right looked about .9-.10.
I started feeling better and decided to head up a crack to the left of the bolted chicken route. A bit dirty at the bottom and pulled loose a few small rocks. Upper half was cleaner. Went up 180' and gave it .9 and rapped back down on two 70m ropes off a manzanita. We are calling it "Probably Did" as a PFA (Possible FA) since someone 'probably did' it already.
Once again a great day in an amazing place. More pics to follow.
Pics one, three and four are sideways. Stupid smart phone
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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nice!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 04:23am PT
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Thanks, Davey.
I updated the list using your new photos (rotated as needed).
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Clint, it's looking good!
For 1-Pitch Wonder
L-R:
Probably Did, 180' crack left of white rock
(Left?), 40-45m starts on left side below crack in pic by dead oak then up to chains
(Middle?), 45-50m starts w/lie back to 1st bolt 15-20' up
(Right), Anchors 25m up w/various cracks leading to them. Continue to top.
Can walk off at west end down small gully. (Left?) bolts are 1/4 smashers w/ SMC SS hangers. Look solid but they are 1/4"
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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The 100' road route is up road from Antenna after a bridge and on a turn where the road swings back N/E toward PB. Easily visible on G/earth.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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BR Dome is just west and north of 1-Pitch Wonder
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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DaveyTree, thanks for the additional photos and beta - I've updated the list, including the main satellite view.
"The monkeys are sharing!" :-)
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Tks for putting it all together Clint. Much bigger response than I expected. Hope more chime in. The funny thing is, with all the good beta and topos, I never got a answer for my original question about 1-Pitch Wonder.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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looking at the photo of Antenna Rock helps me be more specific. Mike and I did climb the route marked in purple, but did not name it that I recall. The route starts at the toe of the buttress and goes up a thin crack below the purple line, and visible in the photo. Pretty easy, perhaps some delicateness at the beginning.
We only climbed that route in order to put a top rope on Crescent Arch crack which is on the vertical face below and to the right. This face is visible in the photo, and the crack would be about where the question mark is. The crack starts from the roofs below, arches up through a clean face and then onto the slabs above. If the photo had been shot from 50 feet to the right, the Crescent Arch would be dramatically obvious. I think the crack was 10.d ish thin hands. Borrelli fired it and then I struggled on it. There is a potential route from the ground up to the Arch, which we admired, but it looks quite difficult, blocky, overhanging, and heavily defended by poison oak.
We also attempted and failed at the severely overhanging route near the top of the photo in the center. Flaring crack that started hard and then went offwidth as it got overhanging. Good challenge for the widemasters.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Clint, the FA of the route on the "upside down boot/foot" was Tim Schiller and Mike Althouse, in addition to me. You are correct, however, that I did a free solo ascent in 1972, including freeing a portion where we placed a few pins for aid in 1970. It's amazing how much one's ability improves in two years!
John
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Here you go Paul. These show it a little better, I hope
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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View of BR reservoir from the top of 1-Pitch Wonder
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 04:27am PT
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Thanks, Paul and John - I've updated the list.
Here is the new Antenna Rock overlay - are the lines for the headwall and for Crescent Arch about right?
I assumed Crescent Arch is a right-facing corner which arches to the right.
Maybe the overall line is easier to see in DaveyTree's photo from Balch Camp, which is not as foreshortened.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Clint, from looking at the rock I believe Crescent is a bit more to the right. Look at the the other two pics of Antenna. It shows a pretty clean line/lyback up from the bushes. Paul will have to give the bless on it to be sure.
Tks again for the efforts
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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The Crescent Arch crack is simply not visible in those photos. Wait till someone uploads a photo from more to the right. It starts from the overhangs that are visible and goes up the blank face. The orange line that you have drawn is close but too far right I think. The actual crack is in the middle of that smooth, vertical face.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 02:45am PT
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Thanks, Paul - I have modified the photo overlay to mention that the Crescent Arch crack is not visible in this particular photo, and used a dotted line to show the approximation location.
Davey, yes, I saw those other corners to the right in your photo too. Lots of rock there.
I also included Guy's photos of Black Rock Dome.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 29, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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Close up of Crescent Arch.
Wider view of the same area.
Area just to the right.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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Thanks for the Crescent Arch photos, Paul - very nice.
I inserted them into the main list.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jus saw the updates. Nice! Now I am actually looking forwardto wnter. Hahaha
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Started a route with Glenn McHam on the right side from the base last fall. One heck of an approach and a lot of rattlesnakes at the bottom!
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jul 29, 2013 - 01:02am PT
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I was looking at the One Pitch Wonder rocks and recognized it as something we did back in 1991. It is also known as Power Line Crag, but maybe OPW is a better name? Routes were done ground up with 1 1/2" X 1/4" Rawl-Drive button heads, with SMC stainless hangers. These could probably stand to be replaced.
#54 Was put up by Sam Gitchel and Dennis Morgan. Done in 2 pitches all natural pro. Feb. 91
#55 Chicken Headed AKA Knobblely Dogs. Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig. Jan. 91
#56 OPW Center AKA Kibbles and Bits. Chambers, Reeves, Ludwig. Jan. 91
#57 OPW Right. Chambers, Bruce Boe. Feb 91
Also, the Far right, 4 pitch route, on the Wedding Wall is called Welcome to Wedding Wall 5.8 at the bulge of first pitch. Upper pitches are quite well run out on 5.7 R/X Ludwig, Reeves, Chambers. Jan. 91
Be Safe, and Have Fun,
Barry
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 29, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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thanks for the history Barry!
I was just driving thru your neck of the woods today on the way back from a trip in SNF.
Did you guys get smoked by the aspen fire?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jul 30, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Yes Sir! That Aspen wildfire is terrible. The smoke was much better today, so I think they have a real handle on it now. I mostly stayed indoors for a couple of days. Went to Courtright Reservoir Saturday with a couple buddies of mine to climb powerdome. At 8,100 feet elevation the smoke was almost even worse up there. We shook our heads, turned around, and drove home.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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Thanks for all the info, Barry.
The former mystery of these routes is what caused these threads and all this info to come together, so the circle is complete in a way.
I updated the list and the overlay:
If you happen to come up with other names for the left and right routes, I can update again, of course.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 30, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
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This is so cool. I may have to return to Ca, this winter!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 30, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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Let me know if you do, Jay! Unfortunately, the smoke from the Aspen fire is so thick, I can barely see to the foothills today, but for the last two weeks I've had a great view of the western end of the Bluffs on my drive home.
John
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Hi Clint,
I'm sorry, a couple of corrections it seems, my wife clued me in on. It seems that my right hemisphere just fills in the blanks with no apparent reason sometimes. I do beg your pardon.
The route that I had labeled Kibbles and Bits turned out to be Knobbles and Bits. This route and the route Knobblely Dogs was put up in April of 1992.
It seems that the left and right most routes on the One Pitch Wonder rocks were done in May 92.
The right most route is called The Price is Right, and was done by Chambers, and Bruce Price. Not Bruce Boe as I had originally labeled.
And the Welcome to Wedding Wall route was done in April 92 as well. One thing I do remember is that the late Eric Brand and Herb Laeger(he is still with us) were putting up, with a Bosch, the route that was to the immediate left of the route we were on. I don't think I'm making this part up.
Good luck,
Two-shoes
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cool sh#t, climbing related, style bump!
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 30, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
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Bump to hear anyone who went up this winter. Almost getting too hot to head up there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 30, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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That place looks really awesome.
Clint great job on the guide.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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May 25, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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I just happened to remember, when we first came across that One Pitch Wonder crag, Kevin Ludwig immediately free-soloed the center most chimney and down climbed the right most chimney. It could have been in the reverse order though? I think he did that while wearing converse high-tops. Two days later he free-soloed the Big Swaaa after top roping it the previous day. He shoed up for that one and actually tied his shoes. He used to boulder out some amazing things while wearing his tennies or not even pulling his laces tight on his climbing shoes. He never does anything that rad or scary anymore.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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May 27, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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Cool Berry. So between Knobblely Dogs and Knobbles & Bits we have Ledwig Rising and between Knobbles & Bits & The Price is Right we have Downward Dog-Ledwig??? Haha
Thanks for the info. I figured those had been climbed. There is a book to the right of Probably Did that must have been done as well.
PS Berry, You taught Jake well.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Cool content bump
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nice work Clint. That's a big area with great rock.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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wooty woot woot, Things to keep The training stoke High - thnxs Clint!
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Jaybro and DMT
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:30am PT
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That place looks amazing!
I hate ticks.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 21, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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Did the recent fires clear out any of the PO and brush that guards the approach?????
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Bump for any activity up there. Duck season is over so my eyes are on the hills. Once in shape I think a few visits will be in order with all the snow blocked roads higher up.
Clint, You can add Ludwig's solos up and down the two chimneys on OPW that Barry mentioned a couple posts back. I don't have a clue for ratings.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Mar 22, 2016 - 08:11am PT
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Had a great time at Patterson with Paul Amico this last Sunday. Always amazed at the amount of rock up there.
Had to work Saturday so we didn't get on the road until 4:45pm. Sent off texts to friends to make them jealous. Had enough time to drive around and scout before dark. All the creeks and falls are getting after it up there and are beautiful.
Since we only had about half a day we decided on Down Under Dome.
Scored my favorite camp spot overlooking a stream but was really sad to see all of the dead trees in the area.
The fire had only burned on the opposite side of the gorge. We had a nice fire in the burn barrel with good drinks along with salad and BBQ venison, tooo good. I forgot my insulated bibs so I scrounged one of my wife's Easter table clothes once the wind kicked up.
After morning coffee and breakfast we parked off the road above the DU dome and rapped off the bumper to find the top anchors of No Oaky I helped put up in 13' with Matt Schutz and Danny Grey. I had forgotten my ropes so I rapped on a fixed 30m and found it didn't reach the anchors from the truck bumper by about 10'-15'. Tied on another shorty and made it. Paul followed to the anchors.
Rapped down 90' to a pillar to climbers right of No Oakey and found a nice ledge. I was surprised to find an old 1/4" leeper on the top of the ledge which looked to have been used to rap down after climbing to the top from one of several different ways.
Paul rapped down as well and we pulled the rope. I had planned to rap down to the ground and climb up to the ledge but it was beyond dirty with wet moss, DG and trees. Probably will go back and clean it when it is not wet.
Only option was up off the ledge. Headed up and left slightly then up a white streak and eventually placed some anchors. Placed 3 bolts on the lead and had 2 cam placements. Called it Sunday Funday 5.7; 105'.
We rapped back down because Paul wanted to climb another line. He is new to FAs but has caught the bug. He TRd the line and I did also. Found a pretty succulent on the route.
We talked and discussed the best places for bolts and I bolted it on rap. It went 5.8 with 4 bolts and a slung knob for 105'. Paul lead it out and called it Tickle My Tick Head for the tick I had to dig out of his leg with a knife that morning.
Sun had heated the rock and us. It was time for beer and snacks so we headed up and out. Scouted more on the drive back and took plenty of pics. Great time with perfect weather and many lines to return to.
Sunday Funday 5.7, 105', 3x gear to 3", FA: Fries/Amico 03/20/16
Tickle My Tick Head 5.8, 105' & shares anchor with Funday, 4x and knob sling, FA: Amico/Fries 03/20/16.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 17, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
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Made it up this last Friday for Paul's b-day. Everything was wet except these pillars just below the second bridge which we called Rebar Pillars. TR's the right one (#3) and found it a fun .9 with a couple.10 moves depending on which way you went. There is a bolted climb there with 3 toward the bottom and 1 more above it, most looked like they needed replacing. We used the rebar and a cam for anchor but later placed a set of anchor bolts for future parties. Climb is a full 100'+ and needed the full 70m to rap and TR it.
Set a pair of anchors bolts on the left pillar and rapped. Found a couple old bolts with no hangers (noted on picture) on the rap. The climb following the bolts (#1) is a .9/.10 and if you stay to the right side (#2) you get to play in a crack for a bit and then thin face in the .10a/b range. The greenery at the base to the right of #2 is poison oak. (70m rope required for TR)
Paul & I added a direction for TR on top of #1 for future parties. Fun routes which had a little loose stuff but overall great fun. Further left is a huge rebar handle you can TR a short steep 35'-40' rock.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 17, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
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Route plant is a Dudleya cymosa, aka liveforever. Thanks for the photo.
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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
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