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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Here's an attempt to collect info on all the routes mentioned in the several Patterson Bluff threads:
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2101621/Patterson-Bluff most recent thread
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1885102&tn=100 bits of info
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1046600/Name-this-Central-Sierra-Crag Rene's earlier thread
 http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0 Jaybro's photos and driving directions, March 2010 trail work to Balch Camp Flake from road on right
 http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=478.0 AAJ descriptions from Ed
 http://widefetish.com/features/jays_wws/jays_wws.html Jaybro's magazine article on JCA's Wide World of Sport w/ action photo another photo
 http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/ topos on Rene's site
 http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&q=Balch+camp+ca&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Balch+Camp,+CA&gl=us&ei=1XokS_HeApDssQObjMHgDg&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CAgQ8gEwAA google map for Balch Camp, CA
 http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=36.91188201797823&lon=-119.06793594360351 NWS weather/temperature forecast (Balch Camp Flake, 4200')
I moved it here so that I can continue to edit it beyond the usual 10 day limit.
I'll update it if people have corrections/additions.
[Update #15: 8/05/2013]

Patterson Bluff rock climbing

Near Balch Camp, 4000-6000' elevation, poison oak, ticks, mountain lions.
Rappel approaches from top.
Info from supertopo.com, widefetish.com, AAJs.

Patterson Bluff - all crags
Patterson Bluff - all crags
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
roadside crags below Patterson Bluff - <br/>
Road Gold, slab above Road Go...
roadside crags below Patterson Bluff -
Road Gold, slab above Road Gold, Antenna Rock
Credit: google / Clint Cummins

Shorter crags below Patterson Bluff

Left side of Road Gold
Left side of Road Gold
Credit: DaveyTree
Right side of Road Gold
Right side of Road Gold
Credit: DaveyTree
Pay at the Pump. Jaybro photo.
Pay at the Pump. Jaybro photo.
Credit: Elcapinyoazz

Road Gold (right by the road, 2000' elevation)

1. Pay at the Pump 5.12b, off-fist inversion roof crack, 2 bolt anchor
FA: Jay Anderson

Credit: DaveyTree

slab up road from Road Gold (1/4 mile up road from Road Gold)

2. One Way or Another, 2p, traverse under big roof
FA: Paul Martzen, Mike Borrelli

Antenna Rock, from Balch Camp
Antenna Rock, from Balch Camp
Credit: DaveyTree
Crescent Arch. An off fingers, thin hands crack on Antenna Rock in the...
Crescent Arch. An off fingers, thin hands crack on Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area. Mike Borrelli and I top roped this crack, lowering down from above and did not attempt a start from the ground. The base is heavily guarded by poison oak.
Credit: Paul Martzen
Another view of part of Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area.
Another view of part of Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area.
Credit: Paul Martzen
Antenna Rock
Antenna Rock
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins

Antenna Rock (above the road on a sharp corner, directly above Balch Camp, rappel from antenna base)

3. Antenna Rock Headwall, open project, flaring crack to overhanging ow
4. approach crack, to set up toprope on Crescent Arch
FA: Mike Borrelli, Paul Martzen
5. Crescent Arch 5.10d TR, thin hands, possible start from ground looks hard and has poison oak
FA(toprope): Mike Borrelli

100' Pillar below road
100' Pillar below road
Credit: DaveyTree

pillar below road

6. pillar route, 100', steel rebars on top

Patterson Left

Patterson Bluff Left - Road Approach Map / Directions
Patterson Bluff Left - Road Approach Map / Directions
Credit: Dave Nettle
google map version of Dave's map - from Shaver Lake to top of Patterson Left
Google avoids one section south of "(B)", and Dave's map is 10 years old, so road maintenance might be an issue?
Patterson Bluff Left - trail map and select route locations
Patterson Bluff Left - trail map and select route locations
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - overview map - all route locations
Patterson Bluff Left - overview map - all route locations
Credit: Dave Nettle
Credit: mike a.
Back Wall
Back Wall
Credit: DaveyTree

Patterson Left - Back Wall (left of gully and Sunset Buttress, 5000-6000')

7. The Way of the Dragon 5.11 A0, 10p, aid is short bolt ladder, AAJ 2002, p.207, beta, topo
FA: Brandon Thau, Joe Reichert, Dave Nettle, 10/2001

Patterson Left
Patterson Left
Credit: DaveyTree
I think Richard Leversee drew this up.............
I think Richard Leversee drew this up.............
Credit: Radish

Patterson Left (Indian Point, Ross Crossing Road to top closed in winter, can rappel or descend gully, 5000-5800')

8. escape route, 3-4p, just left of Sunset Buttress, right of gully between Back Wall and main bluff
FA: Paul Martzen, Richard Leversee, 1985
9. Sunset Buttress 5.10 A2, 9p, prow, AAJ 1986, p.156, partial topo
FA: Paul Marzen, Richard Leversee, 3/1985
10. The Sun Also Rises 5.12c, 10p, free version of Sunset Buttress, AAJ 1995, p.156, topo
FA: Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers, Richard Leversee, 9/1994
11. Raptors of the Steep 5.9 A2+, 8p, topo
FA: Scott Thelen, Brandon Thau, Richard Leversee, Mark Leffler, 11/1999
12. Some Assembly Required 5.11, 9p, topo
FA: Dave Nettle, John Fehrman, 9/2000
13. Under the Gun 5.11 A1, 8p, joins last pitch of Under the Knife, topo
FA: Richard Leversee, Dave Nettle, Brandon Thau, 8/1999
14. Under the Knife 5.12b, 9p, mostly bolted, 2 5.12 pitches, ends at Knife Flake, 2x gear to 2", 1x #5 cam, 15 draws
FA: Scott Thelen, Richard Leversee
15. 50 lbs of Crack 5.12a/b, 8p, topo1 topo2
FA: John Wason?, Ron Felton, 10/1996
FFA: ?
16. Some Restrictions Apply 5.10+, 7p, topo
FA: Richard Leversee, Dave Nettle, Brandon Thau, 8/1999
17. The Face that Launched 1000 Clips 5.12c/d, 11p topo
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Brand, Richard Leversee
18. La Cara Perfecta (Ten) 5.10c, 14p, topo, messier topo which includes lines for 1000 Clips and Eleven
FA: Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee, 6/1998
19. Eleven 5.11b/c
20. Millenium Falcon 5.12 A0

left of Wedding Wall

21. Dimaxicon, 1p
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, late 1980s or early 90s
22. Horrendicon, 1p, fairly hard, high first bolt
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, late 1980s or early 90s

Patterson Bluff, N Fork King's River area.
Patterson Bluff, N Fork King's River area.
Credit: Ksolem
Patterson Bluff Left - Wedding Wall &#40;satellite view&#41;
Patterson Bluff Left - Wedding Wall (satellite view)
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
Wedding Wall
Wedding Wall
Credit: DaveyTree

Wedding Wall (central slab/apron, above creek, right side of Patterson Left, 4600-5200')

23. In Slickness and in Stealth 5.11a/b, 4p, low angle and looks easy but is not, made aluminum hook for lead drilling on this route
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Julie Lazar, late 1980s or early 90s
24. another WW route 5.11a/b, 3p or 4p, Herb and Kris did about 15 new routes at Patterson
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Julie Lazar, late 1980s or early 90s
24.5 just left of WWW, w/ Bosch
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Brand, 4/1992
25. Welcome to Wedding Wall 5.8, 4p, crux at bulge on p1, upper pitches 5.7 R/X
FA: Kevin Ludwig, Leni Reeves, Barry Chambers, 4/1992

unsure location

26. Wrecked 'Em and Eject 'Em, ow
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Tom Marshall, late 1980s or early 90s
27. Digital Exam 5.11, fingerlock splitter to right
FA: Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Tom Marshall, late 1980s or early 90s

Patterson Right

Patterson Bluff Right - Patterson Falls Apron <br/>
Note overlay line is a...
Patterson Bluff Right - Patterson Falls Apron
Note overlay line is a rough guess
Credit: Davey Tree / Clint Cummins
Patterson Bluff Right - Patterson Falls Apron <br/>
&#40;satellite view - ...
Patterson Bluff Right - Patterson Falls Apron
(satellite view - angle is very distorted)
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
falls and right side
falls and right side
Credit: limpingcrab

Patterson Falls Apron (far left side of Patterson Right, apron right of the falls, obvious "upside down leg/boot" pillar with long LFC on L side, in 1970 a trail with built up switchbacks existed from the base back to within 100 feet of the road, 3800-4600')

28. Victory at Sea 5.8 A2, 3p, up path of dry Patterson Falls
FA: Larry Zulim, Bob Simmons, by 1987
29. middle pillar 5.8, 5p or 6p, 2-3p up middle of "upside down leg/boot" pillar with 5.8 move at top, 3p slabs above with no anchors
FA: John Eleazarian, Tim Schiller, Mike Althouse, 12/1970
FFA: John Eleazarian (free solo), 1972
30. middle black intrusion, middle arching black intrusion, one bolt at headwall and thin cracks above, could use some bolts
FA: Paul Martzen

Balch Camp Flake (4200', a trail with green flagging from road from the southwest was cleared in March 2010, and becomes overgrown, poison oak and ticks. It may be better to make multiple raps from top of cliff after 60 minute hike on old road)

Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake approach trail - route of Ale...
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake approach trail - route of Alexey and Chris 11/2/2013
Follow GREEN flagging for correct trail - don't lose it or you will get lost.
Credit: google satellite / Alexey / Clint Cummins
Start of the trail. 12.1 miles from Kirch Flat campground
Start of the trail. 12.1 miles from Kirch Flat campground
Credit: Alexey
start of trail to Balch Camp Flake - <br/>
marked with green flagging &#40...
start of trail to Balch Camp Flake -
marked with green flagging (2010-13); beware of poison oak and ticks
GPS 36.901991,-119.061511
Credit: DaveyTree
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake area
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake area
Credit: Paul Martzen / Rene Ardesch / Clint Cummins
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake <br/>
GPS 36.913117,-119.067841
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake
GPS 36.913117,-119.067841
Credit: Guy Kersee / Clint Cummins

31. A Side of Wide 5.10d, bolt protected chimney start, left of Balch Camp Flake
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997

32. TPL var. start 5.12a, thin hand crack, front side of Dracula
FA(aid): Paul Martzen
FFA: Jaybro?
33. The Passionate Life 5.11c, 2p, ow and squeeze, camalots 4x4 2x4.5 2x5, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, 2/1997
34. JCA's Wide World of Sport 5.12b, 2p, ow and squeeze, 16x + gear, topo
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Brad Jarrett, 3/1995
35. Balch Camp Flake - Original Route, right edge of the flake, bolt ladder to horn lasso, then more bolts, AAJ
FA: George Sessions, Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, Mark Powell, 1954
36. Flicker of Time Arete 5.9 A0, starts on Original Route bolt ladder,
then free climbs arete above, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997

Balch Camp Flake - inside face

37. backside of JCA WWS 5.11a?
FA: Richard Leversee
38. backside of The Passionate Life 5.11c
FA: Richard Leversee
39. Dracula Crack 5.9, backside of TPL 5.12a var. start, hand and fist crack
FA: Dwight Kroll, Ryan?, 1981

39.5 big seam just right of Balch Camp Flake, protected by line of bolts

Patterson Bluff Right - Three Pillars
Patterson Bluff Right - Three Pillars
Credit: Davey Tree
Patterson Bluff Right - <br/>
Balch Camp Flake, Three Pillars, Blob
Patterson Bluff Right -
Balch Camp Flake, Three Pillars, Blob
Credit: Paul Martzen Photography / Clint Cummins

Three Pillars (just right of Balch Camp Flake, R/3rd pillar is tallest, 2-3 raps from reflectors to top of 3rd pillar, 4200-4700')

40. Pablo's Cruise 5.7/5.8, 3p, gulley on L side of 1st pillar to top of 3rd pillar, then left to black dike and up 3p of slabs
FA: Paul Martzen
41. face above Pablo's Cruise, toproped, person-sized scallops, very unnerving friction mantles
42. Sex and Drugs 5.9, crack between 1st and 2nd pillars
43. Oroborus Crack 5.10c A2?, S-shaped crack on 2nd pillar, aid seam (might go free at 5.12) to 5.10c fingers past roof, then 5.9 hands to ledge, and lieback to top
FA: Paul Martzen
44. Storm Drain 5.8, gully between 2nd and 3rd pillars, to bushy tree at top
45. right LFC 5.10c/d, right of 2 LFCs on lower half of 3rd pillar
FA: Paul Martzen

The Blob (right of 3 Pillars, blobish rock with 3 cracks)

46. Crescent Crack, left crack, arches to right, goes halfway up Blob, rope cut on FA by loose block
FA: Mike Borrelli, Paul Martzen
47. Scary Monsters 5.10b, left leaning hand and fist, center crack
FA: Paul Martzen, Mike Borrelli, 1981

Patterson Bluff - Down Under Dome, The Gorge <br/>
&#40;satellite view&#41;
Patterson Bluff - Down Under Dome, The Gorge
(satellite view)
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
Patterson Bluff Right - Down Under Dome
Patterson Bluff Right - Down Under Dome
Credit: Davey Tree

Down Under Dome (below Black Rock Road, before Black Rock Reservoir, 3800-4000')

48. Safe to Dance 5.10b, 1p, 3x, 70', far L side ("Safety Dance"?)
FA: Paul Martzen, Bob Simmons
49. No Oakey 5.10b, 2p, 1: 5.10b 90', 2: 5.8 110', L of middle pillar/book
FA: Danny Grey, Matt Shutz, David Fries, 3/2013

boulder above turnout for Down Under Dome
boulder above turnout for Down Under Dome
Credit: DaveyTree

Up Over Boulder (above turnout for Down Under Dome)

50. toprope routes, 2 bolts on top

Patterson Bluff Right - The Gorge <br/>
Mike Latendresse toproping The Big...
Patterson Bluff Right - The Gorge
Mike Latendresse toproping The Big Schwaaa, Patty McCartney belaying
Credit: Jorge (Tuckess) Menchu

Big Schwaaa Gorge (below Down Under Dome, flat bench of pine trees on top, 3600')

51. The Big Schwaaa 5.11d, thin hands
FA(toprope): Jorge (Tuckess) Menchu
FL: Mike Latendresse
52. really thin crack, tried by Larry Zulim
53. wide corner crack

Patterson Bluff - One Pitch Bluff <br/>
&#40;satellite view&#41;
Patterson Bluff - One Pitch Bluff
(satellite view)
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
One Pitch Wonder - Left Route, heavily chicken headed, bolted
One Pitch Wonder - Left Route, heavily chicken headed, bolted
Credit: DaveyTree
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins

Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder (just past reservoir, west of Black Rock Road, behind the power lines, 4500')

54. Probably Did 5.9, 180' crack, rap from manzanita or walk off west down small gully
FA: Sam Gitchel, Dennis Morgan, 5/1992
55. Knobblely Dogs 5.10b/c, 1/4" bolts w/ SS SMC hangers to chains, chickenheads, 40-45m
FA: Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig, 4/1992
56. Knobbles and Bits 5.11a/b, lieback 15-20' to first bolt, 45-50m
FA: Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig, 4/1992
57. The Price is Right 5.9/5.10, rating guess, several cracks to anchors 25m up, then continue to top
FA: Barry Chambers, Bruce Price, 5/1992

Black Rock Dome - north and slightly west of One Pitch Wonder
Black Rock Dome - north and slightly west of One Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
Two views of same cliff. <br/>
Kings Canyan
Two views of same cliff.
Kings Canyan
Credit: guyman
Black Rock Dome from the air.
Black Rock Dome from the air.
Credit: Flydude

Black Rock Dome (north and slightly west of Power Line Crag, gnarly bushwhack approach from NW, 6400-7000')

58. Bad Day at Black Rock 5.10+, 4p, in center, 1: knobs and bolted face, then cracks and face climbing next to chimney, AAJ 1997
FA: Jim Zellers, Pete Taylor, Richard Leversee, 8/1996
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
Hey Clint, Great and thorough job as usual! I talked to Larry Zulim tonite and he told me about a climb not on the list. Its all the way over on the left side, up the waterfall that was dry at the time. "Victory at Sea" 5.8 A2 3 pitches, done by Larry Zulim and Bob Simmons. Not sure of the date.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Thanks, Clint. On my tick list of places I have never climbed and need to, this is at the top.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Chris,
Thanks to your site, for making this type of project possible!
I hope you get a chance to check it out and dodge the poison oak as well.

Rene,
Thanks - I added "Victory at Sea". The date is somewhat bounded by Bob's passing.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/131168/Anybody-remember-Bob-Simmons
And thanks for your efforts in posting the topos and descriptions from Paul that started this.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 4, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Radish, thanks for the update. I get pumped hearing about all the routes people have done. I am sure there is a lot more..... just hoping not all the lines I have picked out....hahaha
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Nice work Clint, & all!

A side of wide, Leversee put in The initial bolts, then I led the FA/FFA (same ascent) followed by Anne Yeagle, Cotter, & Mr Big(?)
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
More adventure taken out of climbing.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Oh Randisi, there's still plenty of adventure left out there.


heck even this thread will probably drop below the radar at some point.


Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Here in China, definitely.

But there is a lack of guidebooks here. Gratefully!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
Threads like this are one of the great things about supertopo. Thank you guys for pooling the resources!

I think showing what's already been done encourages adventure. Kinda like how I get guidebooks to see what's NOT in them. You can't go into the unknown without knowing what's known, if that makes sense. Well, you could purposely ignore info to make things more difficult for yourself, but that's not what I think of as adventure.

DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 4, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
Dito Crab. Although you could be one that shares nothing and then when someone puts up an FA, you can pop their balloon by then coming out with the original FA. "Sorry, already been done"
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 02:09am PT
TR: Just got back from Patterson with Chris Rocca and will post pics as I go through them. Headed to D.U. Dome to work a few lines. Decided to warm up on a short rock above the turn out on top of dome. Found anchors on top and TR a bit.

Credit: DaveyTree

I got a headache and felt sick and realised I hadn't eaten. I ate and scratched the D.U. plans. Went up to the one pitch rocks above BR turn. Until someone has a better name.I'm calling '1-pitch wonder'.
1-pitch Wonder
1-pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree

Chris and I both climbed a bit on the left most, heavily chicken headed, bolted rout(3 total). One oneach of the separate rocks. The left is about .10b/c. Middle prob easy to mid .11 and right looked about .9-.10.
Chris Rocca on left bolted chicken heads at 1-Pitch Wonder
Chris Rocca on left bolted chicken heads at 1-Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree

I started feeling better and decided to head up a crack to the left of the bolted chicken route. A bit dirty at the bottom and pulled loose a few small rocks. Upper half was cleaner. Went up 180' and gave it .9 and rapped back down on two 70m ropes off a manzanita. We are calling it "Probably Did" as a PFA (Possible FA) since someone 'probably did' it already.
Probably Did .9, 180', small pro, PFA David Fries/Chris Rocca 4/5/13
Probably Did .9, 180', small pro, PFA David Fries/Chris Rocca 4/5/13
Credit: DaveyTree

Once again a great day in an amazing place. More pics to follow.

Pics one, three and four are sideways. Stupid smart phone
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 6, 2013 - 02:33am PT
nice!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 03:14am PT
Flake area with dying sun
Flake area with dying sun
Credit: DaveyTree
Wedding Wall
Wedding Wall
Credit: DaveyTree
About 100' feature below road with a route on left column. Can use met...
About 100' feature below road with a route on left column. Can use metal bars sticking up as indicators and anchors
Credit: DaveyTree
'L' shaped Road Gold by road
'L' shaped Road Gold by road
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 03:26am PT
Back Wall
Back Wall
Credit: DaveyTree
The 3 Tiers on road before Road Gold
The 3 Tiers on road before Road Gold
Credit: DaveyTree
'Antenna Rock' looking up from Balch Camp
'Antenna Rock' looking up from Balch Camp
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 03:37am PT
Start of trail up toward the Flake. Has red tape and blue further in <br/>
Start of trail up toward the Flake. Has red tape and blue further in

Credit: DaveyTree
Patterson Left
Patterson Left
Credit: DaveyTree
Look for these beside road which mark a climb 100'. Possibly others or...
Look for these beside road which mark a climb 100'. Possibly others or FAs
Credit: DaveyTree
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 04:23am PT
Thanks, Davey.
I updated the list using your new photos (rotated as needed).
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 04:38am PT
Black Rock Dome. On ridge to west of BR Reservoir. No known routes
Black Rock Dome. On ridge to west of BR Reservoir. No known routes
Credit: DaveyTree
Base of Antenna Rock
Base of Antenna Rock
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 04:54am PT
Clint, it's looking good!

For 1-Pitch Wonder
L-R:
Probably Did, 180' crack left of white rock
(Left?), 40-45m starts on left side below crack in pic by dead oak then up to chains
(Middle?), 45-50m starts w/lie back to 1st bolt 15-20' up
(Right), Anchors 25m up w/various cracks leading to them. Continue to top.

Can walk off at west end down small gully. (Left?) bolts are 1/4 smashers w/ SMC SS hangers. Look solid but they are 1/4"
Captain...or Skully

climber
Apr 6, 2013 - 08:19am PT
Man, you're one organized monkey, Clint. Woot!
Cool lookin' crags.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:14am PT
The 100' road route is up road from Antenna after a bridge and on a turn where the road swings back N/E toward PB. Easily visible on G/earth.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:28am PT
BR Dome is just west and north of 1-Pitch Wonder

Pay at the Pump. Gives some degree of orientation to Road Gold to it's...
Pay at the Pump. Gives some degree of orientation to Road Gold to it's left
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:46am PT
1-Pitch Wonder
1-Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
DaveyTree, thanks for the additional photos and beta - I've updated the list, including the main satellite view.
"The monkeys are sharing!" :-)
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
Tks for putting it all together Clint. Much bigger response than I expected. Hope more chime in. The funny thing is, with all the good beta and topos, I never got a answer for my original question about 1-Pitch Wonder.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 8, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
looking at the photo of Antenna Rock helps me be more specific. Mike and I did climb the route marked in purple, but did not name it that I recall. The route starts at the toe of the buttress and goes up a thin crack below the purple line, and visible in the photo. Pretty easy, perhaps some delicateness at the beginning.

We only climbed that route in order to put a top rope on Crescent Arch crack which is on the vertical face below and to the right. This face is visible in the photo, and the crack would be about where the question mark is. The crack starts from the roofs below, arches up through a clean face and then onto the slabs above. If the photo had been shot from 50 feet to the right, the Crescent Arch would be dramatically obvious. I think the crack was 10.d ish thin hands. Borrelli fired it and then I struggled on it. There is a potential route from the ground up to the Arch, which we admired, but it looks quite difficult, blocky, overhanging, and heavily defended by poison oak.

We also attempted and failed at the severely overhanging route near the top of the photo in the center. Flaring crack that started hard and then went offwidth as it got overhanging. Good challenge for the widemasters.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 8, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Clint, the FA of the route on the "upside down boot/foot" was Tim Schiller and Mike Althouse, in addition to me. You are correct, however, that I did a free solo ascent in 1972, including freeing a portion where we placed a few pins for aid in 1970. It's amazing how much one's ability improves in two years!

John
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
Another view of Antenna
Another view of Antenna
Credit: DaveyTree
Closer view of Crescent
Closer view of Crescent
Credit: DaveyTree

Here you go Paul. These show it a little better, I hope
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 8, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
View of BR reservoir from the top of 1-Pitch Wonder
BR Reservoir from 1-PW
BR Reservoir from 1-PW
Credit: DaveyTree
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 04:27am PT
Thanks, Paul and John - I've updated the list.

Antenna Rock
Antenna Rock
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
Here is the new Antenna Rock overlay - are the lines for the headwall and for Crescent Arch about right?
I assumed Crescent Arch is a right-facing corner which arches to the right.

Maybe the overall line is easier to see in DaveyTree's photo from Balch Camp, which is not as foreshortened.
Antenna Rock, from Balch Camp
Antenna Rock, from Balch Camp
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 9, 2013 - 08:06am PT
Clint, from looking at the rock I believe Crescent is a bit more to the right. Look at the the other two pics of Antenna. It shows a pretty clean line/lyback up from the bushes. Paul will have to give the bless on it to be sure.

Tks again for the efforts
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 9, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
The Crescent Arch crack is simply not visible in those photos. Wait till someone uploads a photo from more to the right. It starts from the overhangs that are visible and goes up the blank face. The orange line that you have drawn is close but too far right I think. The actual crack is in the middle of that smooth, vertical face.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 02:45am PT
Thanks, Paul - I have modified the photo overlay to mention that the Crescent Arch crack is not visible in this particular photo, and used a dotted line to show the approximation location.

Davey, yes, I saw those other corners to the right in your photo too. Lots of rock there.

I also included Guy's photos of Black Rock Dome.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 29, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
Close up of Crescent Arch.
Crescent Arch. An off fingers, thin hands crack on Antenna Rock in the...
Crescent Arch. An off fingers, thin hands crack on Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area. Mike Borrelli and I top roped this crack, lowering down from above and did not attempt a start from the ground. The base is heavily guarded by poison oak.
Credit: Paul Martzen

Wider view of the same area.
Another view of part of Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area.
Another view of part of Antenna Rock in the Patterson Bluffs area.
Credit: Paul Martzen

Area just to the right.
Further to the right at Antenna Rock.
Further to the right at Antenna Rock.
Credit: Paul Martzen
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Thanks for the Crescent Arch photos, Paul - very nice.
I inserted them into the main list.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 3, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Jus saw the updates. Nice! Now I am actually looking forwardto wnter. Hahaha
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Jun 5, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
Black Rock Dome from the air.
Black Rock Dome from the air.
Credit: Flydude
Started a route with Glenn McHam on the right side from the base last fall. One heck of an approach and a lot of rattlesnakes at the bottom!
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:02am PT
I was looking at the One Pitch Wonder rocks and recognized it as something we did back in 1991. It is also known as Power Line Crag, but maybe OPW is a better name? Routes were done ground up with 1 1/2" X 1/4" Rawl-Drive button heads, with SMC stainless hangers. These could probably stand to be replaced.
#54 Was put up by Sam Gitchel and Dennis Morgan. Done in 2 pitches all natural pro. Feb. 91
#55 Chicken Headed AKA Knobblely Dogs. Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, Kevin Ludwig. Jan. 91
#56 OPW Center AKA Kibbles and Bits. Chambers, Reeves, Ludwig. Jan. 91
#57 OPW Right. Chambers, Bruce Boe. Feb 91

Also, the Far right, 4 pitch route, on the Wedding Wall is called Welcome to Wedding Wall 5.8 at the bulge of first pitch. Upper pitches are quite well run out on 5.7 R/X Ludwig, Reeves, Chambers. Jan. 91

Be Safe, and Have Fun,

Barry





Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jul 29, 2013 - 01:14am PT
thanks for the history Barry!

I was just driving thru your neck of the woods today on the way back from a trip in SNF.

Did you guys get smoked by the aspen fire?
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Yes Sir! That Aspen wildfire is terrible. The smoke was much better today, so I think they have a real handle on it now. I mostly stayed indoors for a couple of days. Went to Courtright Reservoir Saturday with a couple buddies of mine to climb powerdome. At 8,100 feet elevation the smoke was almost even worse up there. We shook our heads, turned around, and drove home.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
Thanks for all the info, Barry.
The former mystery of these routes is what caused these threads and all this info to come together, so the circle is complete in a way.
I updated the list and the overlay:
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder
Power Line Crag or One Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
If you happen to come up with other names for the left and right routes, I can update again, of course.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
This is so cool. I may have to return to Ca, this winter!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Let me know if you do, Jay! Unfortunately, the smoke from the Aspen fire is so thick, I can barely see to the foothills today, but for the last two weeks I've had a great view of the western end of the Bluffs on my drive home.

John
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Aug 4, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
Hi Clint,

I'm sorry, a couple of corrections it seems, my wife clued me in on. It seems that my right hemisphere just fills in the blanks with no apparent reason sometimes. I do beg your pardon.

The route that I had labeled Kibbles and Bits turned out to be Knobbles and Bits. This route and the route Knobblely Dogs was put up in April of 1992.

It seems that the left and right most routes on the One Pitch Wonder rocks were done in May 92.

The right most route is called The Price is Right, and was done by Chambers, and Bruce Price. Not Bruce Boe as I had originally labeled.

And the Welcome to Wedding Wall route was done in April 92 as well. One thing I do remember is that the late Eric Brand and Herb Laeger(he is still with us) were putting up, with a Bosch, the route that was to the immediate left of the route we were on. I don't think I'm making this part up.

Good luck,

Two-shoes
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 8, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
Cool sh#t, climbing related, style bump!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 30, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
Bump to hear anyone who went up this winter. Almost getting too hot to head up there.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 30, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
That place looks really awesome.

Clint great job on the guide.
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
May 25, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
I just happened to remember, when we first came across that One Pitch Wonder crag, Kevin Ludwig immediately free-soloed the center most chimney and down climbed the right most chimney. It could have been in the reverse order though? I think he did that while wearing converse high-tops. Two days later he free-soloed the Big Swaaa after top roping it the previous day. He shoed up for that one and actually tied his shoes. He used to boulder out some amazing things while wearing his tennies or not even pulling his laces tight on his climbing shoes. He never does anything that rad or scary anymore.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 27, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
Cool Berry. So between Knobblely Dogs and Knobbles & Bits we have Ledwig Rising and between Knobbles & Bits & The Price is Right we have Downward Dog-Ledwig??? Haha

Thanks for the info. I figured those had been climbed. There is a book to the right of Probably Did that must have been done as well.

PS Berry, You taught Jake well.
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