Another Great Climbing Shoe...discontinued. (Rant)

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Messages 41 - 57 of total 57 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:38am PT
Nah, I feel your pain. I'm looking for a comfortable all day climbing shoe that I can wear on multipitch 5.3's, preferably one that takes my orthodics without smashing my toes.

But really, I need to find a new pair of shoes. I've been saying it for years, but I am sick of my Sportivas falling apart in the first month of use.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT


"but I am sick of my Sportivas falling apart in the first month of use."...

LOL!!!...

You and how many others???...

The #1 company for DELAMS!!!...
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:44am PT
THANK YOU locker... I've been accused of shoe abuse (storing them in the oven and shit). I've literally had the heal rip off on the first heal hook. Plus the rest of the shoe delaming all around the sole.

I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:10am PT
I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...

Last I looked, REI had a great price and selection of Coyote lace-up's. While they're neither durable nor suitable for hard problems, they make a pretty good shoe for long, moderate climbs -- as long as you don't need ankle protection. Of course, there's always tape. . .

I finally decided fit and friction can be separated. When I know I'll be dealing with lots of off-widths, I love my old Fires, and have kept them for a couple of decades by having them re-soled with Stealth, in whatever version is particularly trendy at the time of the re-sole. I'm not looking forward to what I'll try when those Old Reliables finally wear through the uppers.

John
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Maybe this will clear things up...

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT

Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...

;)

I can provide that!! I've got two of em!!

Credit: Relic



locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT
"I've been accused of shoe abuse (storing them in the oven and shit). I've literally had the heal rip off on the first heal hook"...

My only GUESS is they are using an inferior GLUE...

You're far from alone with you delam issues...

I have done a TON of reGLUES on LaSporHEAPa's...

More often than not, when I am resoling a pair, I have do a bunch of fuking reGLUING first...

Years back I called and emailed my concerns...

Never once heard back from them...

;-)

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:30am PT


Hey Big Mike...

Fuking GREAT shot man!!!...

So COOL that you're up and about and ready to rock and fuking roll...

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Relic is an excellent photog. And ya i'm getting there!! Next stop, no canes!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT


"And ya i'm getting there!! Next stop, no canes!"...


Fuk dude...

The way you're healing up so fast I was figuring more along the lines of "Dancing with the stars"...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT
LOL!!!! ;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Nice BigMike! Fuggin hardman ya are!


And Locker,, Lasportiva has a glu problem-- they are in one of those "advanced euro countries" we hear some yammer on about-- they have to use "eco- glu" which is nothing more than excretion from italian pelicans. Only in the good ol USA can you find the GUD stuff, toxic, fumes like a headrush, and WORKS!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:45am PT

" Only in the good ol USA can you find the GUD stuff, toxic, fumes like a headrush, and WORKS!"...

A big "UH OH!!!" on that one Ron...

The majority of resolers I know use the SAME glue...

and it's NOT "Made in America"...



LOL!!!...

100% TRUE!!!...

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
with the gas money to get to Riverside

Man, that would be waste. Especially since the outlet is in Redlands, not Riverside ;^)

I've got a pair from when they first came out, and just don't wear them much. They aren't really stiff enough for a high-top wide crack shoe. Sure, you get ankly protection, but heel-toeing in them is no better than my other shoes. They are pretty comfy for all day below your limit stuff though.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 25, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
Not just Sportiva climbing shoes, I've had their approach shoes fall apart in 5-6 months when all others last me 2 years.
And pair of mountaineering boots that would have rather broke my feet than deign to break in.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
To their credit La Sporto did replace one (of five) pairs of my shitty delaming shoes.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
May 6, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Bought a pair of Evolv Shamans during my last strip.

Best shoe (that doesn't fall apart in the first week of climbing) since the 5.10 UFOs.
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