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Messages 1 - 40 of total 40 in this topic |
MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Why do climbing shoe manufacturers do this?
Is it to force you to keep searching the availability?
I imagine finding a shoe that you feel good about for the rest of your life makes them feel uncomfortable.
Thanks for your earnings being more important than our comfort.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Mar 24, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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I imagine finding a shoe that you feel good about for the rest of your life makes them feel uncomfortable
Perhaps. But it's pretty good bet that for the typical capitalist, making you uncomfortable is a nice side effect of this sort of thing.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Mar 24, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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Frustrating.
But............I bought a pair of Pingora's one time (approach shoe) that fit me so well, I ordered another pair while they were on sale. Took 2 years to wear out the first pair. 2nd pair didn't fit! My feet had changed just enough that the 2nd pair was torture and I ended up giving them away. The first pair must have stretched out with my changing feet.
Yup, our feet, especially climbers and skiers, change as we age, and not usually for the better. Merrills used to fit me great, now, not so much.
Boreal's are still the only climbing shoe that even comes close though.
Love my Ballet Golds with Lockers name on them! HA!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 24, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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My Acopa JB's. . .
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Mikemcee
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Mar 24, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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My Acopa JB's. . .
+1
I've moved on and now really like the TC Pros but, damn, those things are SPENDY!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
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What is missing from this page?
http://fiveten.com/products/climbing
The ONLY pair of shoes my wife can climb in, and she climbs A LOT...
Grandstones.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 24, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
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I'm so happy I bought 3 pair last year. They were my replacements for the JB's.. also discontinued. I went through a lot of money and pain before discovering the Grandstones. Meh.
I'm going to go peruse EBAY now...
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Mar 24, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
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High-tops: just get a good low-top shoe and sew on some leather.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 24, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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Um.. no.. I'm not exactly a Lynn-Hill size 4 pixie-type and I get them large so I can wear fluffy socks..I'll check out that site. thanks Dingus.. The place I was ordering them for cheap is now sold out. If you Google they are definitely still around...at full price or more of course. 5-10 outlet probably still has them, but with the gas money to get to Riverside it's the same as buying online.
Side Rant: I've been waiting for resoles on two of my 3 pairs for 2 frigging months now. Buy a new pair and they usually shipped out and sitting on my doorstep in 5 days.
Sorry about the griping. Just annoyed.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 24, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Locker.. does he have to wait for the rubber tree to mature to get the rubber?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Maidy, though Lockerman is somewhere in the
vicinity of da bloot in CA, I think, he has a pretty
good turnaround on shoes. My .02!
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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"Locker.. does he have to wait for the rubber tree to mature to get the rubber?"... great line, first LOL all day.
5.10 did the same with an approach shoe I loved.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Granstones got the Ax ver a year ago....
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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Why do climbing shoe manufacturers do this?
pretty simple: sales
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Well, if anyone has any La Sportiva Ventors 41.5 or 42 I'd love to buy them...
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Merchants are not to be trusted.
Sorry, JTM. I do hope you find your shoes.
edit: The exact nomenclature escapes me. Call them as you see them.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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Merchants are not to be trusted
merchants or manufacturers?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 25, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Hmmm good thing my mythos are one of the most popular shoes ever.... But maybe i'd better pick up another pair... And my girlfriend wanted to toss my old ones... Sha right!!
I do miss the verde's tho... I hate sport shoes, they always kill me.. I guess that's the price of having size 13's!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Mar 25, 2013 - 01:57am PT
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The day Boreal stops making Ballets is the day I... dig into my stock pile of Ballets.
The rock gods will be angry with Boreal if they change that shoe too much.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Mar 25, 2013 - 06:55am PT
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LOCKER Resoles are the shizzzz....although my last pair never made it (i fud up the address) but damn he does a good job.... Sure beats a new pair!!
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Nilepoc
Big Wall climber
Tx
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Mar 25, 2013 - 08:44am PT
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5.10 seems to be the worst offender. They have no remorse in pulling a shoe. I talked to a rep about it once and he admitted it is purely marketing and forcing us to buy new shoes. It also allows price increases because the "new" shoes have "better" technology.
Fortunately for me Sportiva is relatively stable in their offerings. The solution has been around forever it seems and the mythos is a 20 year legend of a shoe. Compared to some of 5.10's almost one and done offerings.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 10:07am PT
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Thanks for the link Dingus - I believe there are two more pairs of Grandstones coming our way in the girl's size...
Finally found a pair on eBay that *hopefully* will fit me. The TC Pro's just didn't fit my feet well, these seem a little more forgiving.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 25, 2013 - 10:12am PT
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I sort of figured they were getting the ax since they totally disappeared out of retail stores about a year ago. The only people buying them seemed to be a sleeper cell of desperate JB addicts with astigmatism who couldn't tell the difference. Relying on that^ is not a great marketing scheme. If they want to re-invent.. they should produce them in new colors and market them to women as well as men. DUH.
Just checked out the site Dingus recommended. They are way cheap. Just ordered 2 pair for less than most sites are charging for one pair.. I think...(checkout is weird).
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Mar 25, 2013 - 10:23am PT
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Recommendations for a lace up high top still on the market
TC Pro
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 25, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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TC Pro's are totally THE crack climbing shoe, but they are murder on the bone spurs in my big toe joints. They are also too stiff to cross over as a general all-purpose climbing shoe for me. I wear the Grandstones for all types of climbing and they are way more comfortable.
Now that I'm up to 5 pairs I should be able to rotate the resoles for at least 20 years.. actually... make that 30 years at the current turnaround rate.
Edit to add:
Anyone care to wager which gets here first? The resoles I dropped off on Jan 19th or the new shoes I ordered today? My money is on the new shoes.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Mar 25, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Anyone care to wager which gets here first? The resoles I dropped off on Jan 19th or the new shoes I ordered today? My money is on the new shoes.
Rubber room?
I really like the work Tony does, but they do have a backlog
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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Agreed! Scarpa discontinued the Techno.....the best trad shoe i've ever had.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 25, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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hahahaaa... old people shoes.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...
;)
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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Nah, I feel your pain. I'm looking for a comfortable all day climbing shoe that I can wear on multipitch 5.3's, preferably one that takes my orthodics without smashing my toes.
But really, I need to find a new pair of shoes. I've been saying it for years, but I am sick of my Sportivas falling apart in the first month of use.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 25, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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THANK YOU locker... I've been accused of shoe abuse (storing them in the oven and shit). I've literally had the heal rip off on the first heal hook. Plus the rest of the shoe delaming all around the sole.
I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 25, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...
Last I looked, REI had a great price and selection of Coyote lace-up's. While they're neither durable nor suitable for hard problems, they make a pretty good shoe for long, moderate climbs -- as long as you don't need ankle protection. Of course, there's always tape. . .
I finally decided fit and friction can be separated. When I know I'll be dealing with lots of off-widths, I love my old Fires, and have kept them for a couple of decades by having them re-soled with Stealth, in whatever version is particularly trendy at the time of the re-sole. I'm not looking forward to what I'll try when those Old Reliables finally wear through the uppers.
John
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 25, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
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Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...
;)
I can provide that!! I've got two of em!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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Relic is an excellent photog. And ya i'm getting there!! Next stop, no canes!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 25, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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LOL!!!! ;)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 25, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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with the gas money to get to Riverside
Man, that would be waste. Especially since the outlet is in Redlands, not Riverside ;^)
I've got a pair from when they first came out, and just don't wear them much. They aren't really stiff enough for a high-top wide crack shoe. Sure, you get ankly protection, but heel-toeing in them is no better than my other shoes. They are pretty comfy for all day below your limit stuff though.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Mar 25, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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Not just Sportiva climbing shoes, I've had their approach shoes fall apart in 5-6 months when all others last me 2 years.
And pair of mountaineering boots that would have rather broke my feet than deign to break in.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 25, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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To their credit La Sporto did replace one (of five) pairs of my shitty delaming shoes.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Bought a pair of Evolv Shamans during my last strip.
Best shoe (that doesn't fall apart in the first week of climbing) since the 5.10 UFOs.
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