Another Great Climbing Shoe...discontinued. (Rant)

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MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
Why do climbing shoe manufacturers do this?

Is it to force you to keep searching the availability?

I imagine finding a shoe that you feel good about for the rest of your life makes them feel uncomfortable.

Thanks for your earnings being more important than our comfort.
DanaB

climber
CT
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
I imagine finding a shoe that you feel good about for the rest of your life makes them feel uncomfortable

Perhaps. But it's pretty good bet that for the typical capitalist, making you uncomfortable is a nice side effect of this sort of thing.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Frustrating.

But............I bought a pair of Pingora's one time (approach shoe) that fit me so well, I ordered another pair while they were on sale. Took 2 years to wear out the first pair. 2nd pair didn't fit! My feet had changed just enough that the 2nd pair was torture and I ended up giving them away. The first pair must have stretched out with my changing feet.

Yup, our feet, especially climbers and skiers, change as we age, and not usually for the better. Merrills used to fit me great, now, not so much.

Boreal's are still the only climbing shoe that even comes close though.

Love my Ballet Golds with Lockers name on them! HA!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:19pm PT

My Acopa JB's. . .
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:22pm PT

So long as Boreal continues ACES and BALLET GOLDs, I couldn't give a sh!t...

I'm WITH you Julia!!!...

;-)



Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Me too, I have 3 pairs of Golds, all in great shape. Should be good for a little while anyway.

DMT
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
My Acopa JB's. . .

+1

I've moved on and now really like the TC Pros but, damn, those things are SPENDY!
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
What is missing from this page?

http://fiveten.com/products/climbing

The ONLY pair of shoes my wife can climb in, and she climbs A LOT...

Grandstones.

justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
I'm so happy I bought 3 pair last year. They were my replacements for the JB's.. also discontinued. I went through a lot of money and pain before discovering the Grandstones. Meh.

I'm going to go peruse EBAY now...
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
High-tops: just get a good low-top shoe and sew on some leather.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
What size Grandstones? Check out The Clymb - they have some on sale mens sizes, 6, 7, 7.5 and 8; probably too big for you huh?

DMT
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
Um.. no.. I'm not exactly a Lynn-Hill size 4 pixie-type and I get them large so I can wear fluffy socks..I'll check out that site. thanks Dingus.. The place I was ordering them for cheap is now sold out. If you Google they are definitely still around...at full price or more of course. 5-10 outlet probably still has them, but with the gas money to get to Riverside it's the same as buying online.

Side Rant: I've been waiting for resoles on two of my 3 pairs for 2 frigging months now. Buy a new pair and they usually shipped out and sitting on my doorstep in 5 days.

Sorry about the griping. Just annoyed.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:41pm PT

"I've been waiting for resoles on two of my 3 pairs for 2 frigging months now."...


LOL!!!...


;-)

justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
Locker.. does he have to wait for the rubber tree to mature to get the rubber?
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:00pm PT

Maidy, though Lockerman is somewhere in the
vicinity of da bloot in CA, I think, he has a pretty
good turnaround on shoes. My .02!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:03pm PT


"Locker.. does he have to wait for the rubber tree to mature to get the rubber?"...

That or it could possibly be due to hemorrhoids...



EDITED:

SteveW...

I am back in Colorado...

And so you know, turnaround time here is always one week "in shop" (Or sooner)...

I only accept by appointment, and keep the limit...

MELLOW...

;-)





hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
"Locker.. does he have to wait for the rubber tree to mature to get the rubber?"... great line, first LOL all day.

5.10 did the same with an approach shoe I loved.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Granstones got the Ax ver a year ago....
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
Why do climbing shoe manufacturers do this?


pretty simple: sales
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
Well, if anyone has any La Sportiva Ventors 41.5 or 42 I'd love to buy them...
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Merchants are not to be trusted.
Sorry, JTM. I do hope you find your shoes.

edit: The exact nomenclature escapes me. Call them as you see them.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
Merchants are not to be trusted

merchants or manufacturers?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
Hmmm good thing my mythos are one of the most popular shoes ever.... But maybe i'd better pick up another pair... And my girlfriend wanted to toss my old ones... Sha right!!

I do miss the verde's tho... I hate sport shoes, they always kill me.. I guess that's the price of having size 13's!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
The day Boreal stops making Ballets is the day I... dig into my stock pile of Ballets.


The rock gods will be angry with Boreal if they change that shoe too much.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
mmmmmegas,, if ya can find em, then ballets..
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Mar 25, 2013 - 03:55am PT
LOCKER Resoles are the shizzzz....although my last pair never made it (i fud up the address) but damn he does a good job.... Sure beats a new pair!!
Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Mar 25, 2013 - 05:44am PT
5.10 seems to be the worst offender. They have no remorse in pulling a shoe. I talked to a rep about it once and he admitted it is purely marketing and forcing us to buy new shoes. It also allows price increases because the "new" shoes have "better" technology.

Fortunately for me Sportiva is relatively stable in their offerings. The solution has been around forever it seems and the mythos is a 20 year legend of a shoe. Compared to some of 5.10's almost one and done offerings.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Mar 25, 2013 - 06:42am PT
Doesn't help that they often name shoes after "famous" climbers.

I loved my Kaukulators, but celebrity is a fickle thing.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 25, 2013 - 06:58am PT
Since my return to climbing after a 30 yr. hiatus I've been wearing 5.10 Spires, but quickly learned that I prefer a Hi Top shoe as they offer ankle protection. The Grandstones looked like the ticket but were discontinued and none available in my size 12.

When did lo top shoes become the norm?
Anybody have a pair of size 12 Grandstones they want to part with?
Recommendations for a lace up high top still on the market?

Tad
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 07:07am PT
Thanks for the link Dingus - I believe there are two more pairs of Grandstones coming our way in the girl's size...

Finally found a pair on eBay that *hopefully* will fit me. The TC Pro's just didn't fit my feet well, these seem a little more forgiving.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 25, 2013 - 07:12am PT
I sort of figured they were getting the ax since they totally disappeared out of retail stores about a year ago. The only people buying them seemed to be a sleeper cell of desperate JB addicts with astigmatism who couldn't tell the difference. Relying on that^ is not a great marketing scheme. If they want to re-invent.. they should produce them in new colors and market them to women as well as men. DUH.

Just checked out the site Dingus recommended. They are way cheap. Just ordered 2 pair for less than most sites are charging for one pair.. I think...(checkout is weird).
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 25, 2013 - 07:23am PT
Recommendations for a lace up high top still on the market


TC Pro
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 25, 2013 - 07:30am PT
TC Pro's are totally THE crack climbing shoe, but they are murder on the bone spurs in my big toe joints. They are also too stiff to cross over as a general all-purpose climbing shoe for me. I wear the Grandstones for all types of climbing and they are way more comfortable.

Now that I'm up to 5 pairs I should be able to rotate the resoles for at least 20 years.. actually... make that 30 years at the current turnaround rate.

Edit to add:

Anyone care to wager which gets here first? The resoles I dropped off on Jan 19th or the new shoes I ordered today? My money is on the new shoes.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 25, 2013 - 08:14am PT
Anyone care to wager which gets here first? The resoles I dropped off on Jan 19th or the new shoes I ordered today? My money is on the new shoes.

Rubber room?
I really like the work Tony does, but they do have a backlog
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 25, 2013 - 08:24am PT
Agreed! Scarpa discontinued the Techno.....the best trad shoe i've ever had.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 08:34am PT
hahahaaa... old people shoes.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:16am PT


THREAD DRIFT:

"although my last pair never made it (i fud up the address)"...


???...

That's not good!!!...







locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:16am PT


"hahahaaa... old people shoes."...

LOL!!!...

MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 09:26am PT
Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...

;)
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:35am PT


THREAD DRIFT AGAIN:

I often wonder how Pat is holding up via all the incoming shoes through Nomad Ventures...

I was more that HAPPY to part with the area of the business...

Could very QUICKLY become overwhelming...

LOL!!!...

mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:38am PT
Nah, I feel your pain. I'm looking for a comfortable all day climbing shoe that I can wear on multipitch 5.3's, preferably one that takes my orthodics without smashing my toes.

But really, I need to find a new pair of shoes. I've been saying it for years, but I am sick of my Sportivas falling apart in the first month of use.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT


"but I am sick of my Sportivas falling apart in the first month of use."...

LOL!!!...

You and how many others???...

The #1 company for DELAMS!!!...
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:44am PT
THANK YOU locker... I've been accused of shoe abuse (storing them in the oven and shit). I've literally had the heal rip off on the first heal hook. Plus the rest of the shoe delaming all around the sole.

I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:10am PT
I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...

Last I looked, REI had a great price and selection of Coyote lace-up's. While they're neither durable nor suitable for hard problems, they make a pretty good shoe for long, moderate climbs -- as long as you don't need ankle protection. Of course, there's always tape. . .

I finally decided fit and friction can be separated. When I know I'll be dealing with lots of off-widths, I love my old Fires, and have kept them for a couple of decades by having them re-soled with Stealth, in whatever version is particularly trendy at the time of the re-sole. I'm not looking forward to what I'll try when those Old Reliables finally wear through the uppers.

John
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Maybe this will clear things up...

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT

Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...

;)

I can provide that!! I've got two of em!!

Credit: Relic



locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT
"I've been accused of shoe abuse (storing them in the oven and shit). I've literally had the heal rip off on the first heal hook"...

My only GUESS is they are using an inferior GLUE...

You're far from alone with you delam issues...

I have done a TON of reGLUES on LaSporHEAPa's...

More often than not, when I am resoling a pair, I have do a bunch of fuking reGLUING first...

Years back I called and emailed my concerns...

Never once heard back from them...

;-)

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:30am PT


Hey Big Mike...

Fuking GREAT shot man!!!...

So COOL that you're up and about and ready to rock and fuking roll...

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Relic is an excellent photog. And ya i'm getting there!! Next stop, no canes!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT


"And ya i'm getting there!! Next stop, no canes!"...


Fuk dude...

The way you're healing up so fast I was figuring more along the lines of "Dancing with the stars"...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT
LOL!!!! ;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Nice BigMike! Fuggin hardman ya are!


And Locker,, Lasportiva has a glu problem-- they are in one of those "advanced euro countries" we hear some yammer on about-- they have to use "eco- glu" which is nothing more than excretion from italian pelicans. Only in the good ol USA can you find the GUD stuff, toxic, fumes like a headrush, and WORKS!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:45am PT

" Only in the good ol USA can you find the GUD stuff, toxic, fumes like a headrush, and WORKS!"...

A big "UH OH!!!" on that one Ron...

The majority of resolers I know use the SAME glue...

and it's NOT "Made in America"...



LOL!!!...

100% TRUE!!!...

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
with the gas money to get to Riverside

Man, that would be waste. Especially since the outlet is in Redlands, not Riverside ;^)

I've got a pair from when they first came out, and just don't wear them much. They aren't really stiff enough for a high-top wide crack shoe. Sure, you get ankly protection, but heel-toeing in them is no better than my other shoes. They are pretty comfy for all day below your limit stuff though.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 25, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
Not just Sportiva climbing shoes, I've had their approach shoes fall apart in 5-6 months when all others last me 2 years.
And pair of mountaineering boots that would have rather broke my feet than deign to break in.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
To their credit La Sporto did replace one (of five) pairs of my shitty delaming shoes.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
May 6, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Bought a pair of Evolv Shamans during my last strip.

Best shoe (that doesn't fall apart in the first week of climbing) since the 5.10 UFOs.
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