Another Great Climbing Shoe...discontinued. (Rant)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 43 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:57am PT
The day Boreal stops making Ballets is the day I... dig into my stock pile of Ballets.


The rock gods will be angry with Boreal if they change that shoe too much.
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Mar 25, 2013 - 06:55am PT
LOCKER Resoles are the shizzzz....although my last pair never made it (i fud up the address) but damn he does a good job.... Sure beats a new pair!!
Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Mar 25, 2013 - 08:44am PT
5.10 seems to be the worst offender. They have no remorse in pulling a shoe. I talked to a rep about it once and he admitted it is purely marketing and forcing us to buy new shoes. It also allows price increases because the "new" shoes have "better" technology.

Fortunately for me Sportiva is relatively stable in their offerings. The solution has been around forever it seems and the mythos is a 20 year legend of a shoe. Compared to some of 5.10's almost one and done offerings.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:58am PT
Since my return to climbing after a 30 yr. hiatus I've been wearing 5.10 Spires, but quickly learned that I prefer a Hi Top shoe as they offer ankle protection. The Grandstones looked like the ticket but were discontinued and none available in my size 12.

When did lo top shoes become the norm?
Anybody have a pair of size 12 Grandstones they want to part with?
Recommendations for a lace up high top still on the market?

Tad
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 10:07am PT
Thanks for the link Dingus - I believe there are two more pairs of Grandstones coming our way in the girl's size...

Finally found a pair on eBay that *hopefully* will fit me. The TC Pro's just didn't fit my feet well, these seem a little more forgiving.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 25, 2013 - 10:12am PT
I sort of figured they were getting the ax since they totally disappeared out of retail stores about a year ago. The only people buying them seemed to be a sleeper cell of desperate JB addicts with astigmatism who couldn't tell the difference. Relying on that^ is not a great marketing scheme. If they want to re-invent.. they should produce them in new colors and market them to women as well as men. DUH.

Just checked out the site Dingus recommended. They are way cheap. Just ordered 2 pair for less than most sites are charging for one pair.. I think...(checkout is weird).
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 25, 2013 - 10:23am PT
Recommendations for a lace up high top still on the market


TC Pro
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 25, 2013 - 10:30am PT
TC Pro's are totally THE crack climbing shoe, but they are murder on the bone spurs in my big toe joints. They are also too stiff to cross over as a general all-purpose climbing shoe for me. I wear the Grandstones for all types of climbing and they are way more comfortable.

Now that I'm up to 5 pairs I should be able to rotate the resoles for at least 20 years.. actually... make that 30 years at the current turnaround rate.

Edit to add:

Anyone care to wager which gets here first? The resoles I dropped off on Jan 19th or the new shoes I ordered today? My money is on the new shoes.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Anyone care to wager which gets here first? The resoles I dropped off on Jan 19th or the new shoes I ordered today? My money is on the new shoes.

Rubber room?
I really like the work Tony does, but they do have a backlog
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:24am PT
Agreed! Scarpa discontinued the Techno.....the best trad shoe i've ever had.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:34am PT
hahahaaa... old people shoes.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...

;)
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Nah, I feel your pain. I'm looking for a comfortable all day climbing shoe that I can wear on multipitch 5.3's, preferably one that takes my orthodics without smashing my toes.

But really, I need to find a new pair of shoes. I've been saying it for years, but I am sick of my Sportivas falling apart in the first month of use.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 25, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
THANK YOU locker... I've been accused of shoe abuse (storing them in the oven and shit). I've literally had the heal rip off on the first heal hook. Plus the rest of the shoe delaming all around the sole.

I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 25, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
I will just buy a pair (or 5) of other shoes from REI and try them out for a while. Great return policy they have there...

Last I looked, REI had a great price and selection of Coyote lace-up's. While they're neither durable nor suitable for hard problems, they make a pretty good shoe for long, moderate climbs -- as long as you don't need ankle protection. Of course, there's always tape. . .

I finally decided fit and friction can be separated. When I know I'll be dealing with lots of off-widths, I love my old Fires, and have kept them for a couple of decades by having them re-soled with Stealth, in whatever version is particularly trendy at the time of the re-sole. I'm not looking forward to what I'll try when those Old Reliables finally wear through the uppers.

John
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
Mar 25, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Maybe this will clear things up...

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 02:29pm PT

Some young whippersnapper is asking for a cane across the shins...

;)

I can provide that!! I've got two of em!!

Credit: Relic



Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
Relic is an excellent photog. And ya i'm getting there!! Next stop, no canes!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
LOL!!!! ;)
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 25, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
with the gas money to get to Riverside

Man, that would be waste. Especially since the outlet is in Redlands, not Riverside ;^)

I've got a pair from when they first came out, and just don't wear them much. They aren't really stiff enough for a high-top wide crack shoe. Sure, you get ankly protection, but heel-toeing in them is no better than my other shoes. They are pretty comfy for all day below your limit stuff though.
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