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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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Modern climbers all climb with mattresses today too to protect their pussy feet.
Yea, climbers today are pussies. Heard there is some sissy boy that needed every mattress is bishop to climb some 50 ft boulder problem. Too bad we weren't there to tell that boy to harden the f*#k up.
Oh how I miss the good ol days! :)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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eKaterinaPaparazzini generously delivered this snapshot:
"TheLadyInBlack" … went ten kinds of flippy floppy over ole Coz … completely draped herself over his table, on her back, and wrapped her arms around his neck and air kissed him … gracefully, she removed herself from the table, curtsied and we kept on keepin' on.
That's what I'm talking about!!!!!!!
We be on the verge of cranking up the Cozzy storytelling hour.
‘Go all Firesign Theatre on it if we must.
Who's holdin' ?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
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Oh and Vitaliy darling,
The sign above the bar says "Stubborn Trad Guy" … thread content likely to reflect that notion.
Don't put too much stock in the "Cleans Up Act" portion of the program.
Check your bouldering beanie and any other postmodern props at the door!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Mar 27, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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Nice work Coz. Your an honorable, genorous human being. Thank you for being a true visionary icon for our tribe. I hope we cross paths again sometime soon.
I like how a 5.16 is twice as hard as 5.8
Best Regards
Tommy T
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 28, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Love that photo of Scott on G String. Total bad ass old school hard sh!t. Cali pride baby!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Damn straight.
Gotta think any red blooded male would remember an experience like that for life. As in: FeatherInCap♥♥♥™
No pressure or any-tings, like it's only been thurty years ... But ...
Now Coz, for big-time extra bonus Don Juan stylee points: what is/was Lady in Black's eye color? ...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Mar 29, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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That's pretty cool JGHedge...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Mar 29, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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aahhh! The old days and what it must have been to be rad back when...
...the joints just tremble at the thoughts and memories.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:07am PT
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definitely makes sense...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:30am PT
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that would have been something to see- the fa and the fa ..lter ;-)
edit: I only wish I could falter on such a thing... to even give it a go is cool in my mind.
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:48am PT
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Cos, exactly who are you? ;)
Seriously man, you are solid the exact minute you walk into a room without the history, resume, etc.
Kudos to you.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Great interview. Helluva resume but the part that impressed me most. 6400? client climbing days 0 accidents.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Nice to see this thread finally get some legs!
What's the inscription on the pink T-shirts? Go Blanchard? Blinny's Babes?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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Kath you are such an all-around bust up!
Portuguese Water Dog a.k.a. Portagee; Yep, similarities w/Mare right down to the ultra-curly mop top and shaved legs!
... er did you just mean she's Portuguese. Heh.
Ain't no dog that's for sure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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Coz hanging some sky on the Free Muir/Shaft:
photo by Epperson? Or did The General snap this one?
... And judging by that post-mullet mop, maybe he's got some Portagee in him ...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 29, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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So I went to the gym yesterday, and guess what I found? Found the original magazine with the story about almost free Muir wall ascent (one you guys posted in this thread)! Great read, really liked it. Have some questions for the author...
1) Scott, when did you start climbing? (Seems like you did midnight lightning when you were 20!)
2) In photos, I noticed you guys had pre-placed pro, at times with a longer and a shorter draw on it. Is that because aid routes usually only have a few solid placements on some pitches?
3) Did you ever make up with that guy from Muir wall FA team who refused to go to your slide show?
4) When you mention that at the time your new line was harder than anything on El Cap including the Nose do you mean it was much more sustained than anything? Since the nose is 5.14 and I think you guys free climbed to 5.13b, but had much more sustained climbing in 5.12 range...
Loved that this article was honest, and revealed some of the lows you guys had on the wall...funny how at that time people were bashing you for using a power drill to replace anchors and add some bolts to your variation. Can't even imagine how annoying that must of been after being on the wall for a long time and creating an almost free route up el cap!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 29, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
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"Established first ascents of four-A5- Grade Six rock climbs."
Scott- A quick pass through the 1996 Reid guide shows nothing in Yosemite that meets that description so where are these routes?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 30, 2013 - 01:23am PT
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Thanks a lot for clarifying, Scott. Loved the article and again congrats on your climb, even if it wasn't as perfect as you wanted, it is an amazing accomplishment to free so many HARD new pitches up there!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 30, 2013 - 08:58am PT
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Clearly there has been a pointed need established here for a T-shirt kiosk and dog care center setup at the toe of El Cap.
Maybe too Patagonia can replicate the Portugese Water Dog "surface" in some of their limited-to-100 outerwear items.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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Thanks for the detail on that pitch Coz.
Anything to flesh out real living and tell the tell is great stuff in my book!
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