*Cosgrove Radio Interview: Stubborn Trad Guy Cleans up Act!

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
definitely makes sense...
jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
I took an in-his-prime Stefan Glowacz to Cozzy's route The Black Fly, rated 13b at the time, at the Lower Public Sanitation Wall, left of Cade's Final Cut - on which I belayed Cozzy on the FA of

Gros Vache was shut down, kids - ended up bailing by threading his cord through a bare bolt hanger and rapping (don't try that at home)

jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
I could go on
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
that would have been something to see- the fa and the fa ..lter ;-)

edit: I only wish I could falter on such a thing... to even give it a go is cool in my mind.
jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
the fa and the fa ..lter ;-)

Very clever
Anastasia

climber
Home
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Cos, exactly who are you? ;)


Seriously man, you are solid the exact minute you walk into a room without the history, resume, etc.

Kudos to you.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:02am PT
Great interview. Helluva resume but the part that impressed me most. 6400? client climbing days 0 accidents.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:04am PT
No pressure or any-tings, like it's only been thurty years ... But ...
Now Coz, for big-time extra bonus Don Juan stylee points: what is/was Lady in Black's eye color? ...

Well. . . I sorta gave that away in my little story. . . I mean. . . what Pedigree Portagee in the whole frikken world doesn't have BROWN eyes?

:-)

YeahYeah, all ya'lls know my ugly mug. . . but here's Mare. . . sitting on UmbrellaHead's right.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#288732
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 08:40am PT
Nice to see this thread finally get some legs!
What's the inscription on the pink T-shirts? Go Blanchard? Blinny's Babes?
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:47am PT
Mare made those shirts. . . Blanchard has one, too. . . he wore it on the route. . . the day this photo was taken was just a fixing day and he didn't want to wreck his. . . all three of them are pink. . . and Mare's and mine said:

ZODIAC '84

Official Ground and Summit Support Team

Blanchard's says:

ZODIAC SOLO '84

They started a trend. . . I made them for lots and lots of Blinny's solos. . . we still have 'em.

PRETTY RAD!

P.S. I still have those Vuarnets! And I wear them at high altitude, they're PX5000s.

CRACK ME UP!

P.P.S/ Blanchard does NOT still have his Vuarnets. . . he goes through sunglasses like women go through toilet paper. . . I stopped buying him Vuarnets at least 10 years ago.

AND. . . Mare WISHES she still had her Vuarnets!

:-)

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 09:07am PT
Kath you are such an all-around bust up!
Portuguese Water Dog a.k.a. Portagee; Yep, similarities w/Mare right down to the ultra-curly mop top and shaved legs!





... er did you just mean she's Portuguese. Heh.
Ain't no dog that's for sure.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 09:17am PT
Coz hanging some sky on the Free Muir/Shaft:



photo by Epperson? Or did The General snap this one?

... And judging by that post-mullet mop, maybe he's got some Portagee in him ...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 29, 2013 - 09:32am PT
So I went to the gym yesterday, and guess what I found? Found the original magazine with the story about almost free Muir wall ascent (one you guys posted in this thread)! Great read, really liked it. Have some questions for the author...

1) Scott, when did you start climbing? (Seems like you did midnight lightning when you were 20!)

2) In photos, I noticed you guys had pre-placed pro, at times with a longer and a shorter draw on it. Is that because aid routes usually only have a few solid placements on some pitches?

3) Did you ever make up with that guy from Muir wall FA team who refused to go to your slide show?

4) When you mention that at the time your new line was harder than anything on El Cap including the Nose do you mean it was much more sustained than anything? Since the nose is 5.14 and I think you guys free climbed to 5.13b, but had much more sustained climbing in 5.12 range...

Loved that this article was honest, and revealed some of the lows you guys had on the wall...funny how at that time people were bashing you for using a power drill to replace anchors and add some bolts to your variation. Can't even imagine how annoying that must of been after being on the wall for a long time and creating an almost free route up el cap!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 29, 2013 - 09:34am PT
"Established first ascents of four-A5- Grade Six rock climbs."

Scott- A quick pass through the 1996 Reid guide shows nothing in Yosemite that meets that description so where are these routes?
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:02am PT
We tried the route ground up and aided some of the pitches before we climbed them free. We often left the pro in, as to save time, and often did a real red point. I think I made a list of what we did on what pitch, but I can't remember now.

Yes, at the time the Nose was rated 13b and not 14a, so at that time the route was the longest most sustain route. Tommy never did it a push, but confirmed are grading, even saying it was stiff and sand bagged.

Yes, I made up with my friend, getting busted really bummed us out, on top of getting so close to an all free ascent. I started climbing in 77 and did Midnight Lighting at 19 or 20, in 1983-84.

Steve Gross,

Gerberding and I did two climbs together, one in Kolob and One in Yosemite, both I believe are as A5, but Steve calls them A4.

He called Jolly Roger A3 BTW. They feature death falls off sh#t gear a long way above the ground and ledges.

The other two are obscure walls, it the Desert, Kolob and have never been recorded, although I did a write about them in an Alpine Journal...I think.

We did a lot of walls together, including the first one day of Dark Star on El Cap, supposed Bridwell A5, but the FA we did were far harder. But I'm not getting in any aid debate with you old friend. LOL

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 29, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
Thanks a lot for clarifying, Scott. Loved the article and again congrats on your climb, even if it wasn't as perfect as you wanted, it is an amazing accomplishment to free so many HARD new pitches up there!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 30, 2013 - 05:58am PT
Clearly there has been a pointed need established here for a T-shirt kiosk and dog care center setup at the toe of El Cap.

Maybe too Patagonia can replicate the Portugese Water Dog "surface" in some of their limited-to-100 outerwear items.
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 30, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Lot's of crazy puppies in those days... I was too young and shy to know what they were really up too however, LOL.

Roy that's an Epi photo, it's the way around the bolt ladder, that leads right, over to the upper Muir, at the base of the traversing pitch leading to the Shield Roof.

It starts off on overhanging 12a/b and finishes on a big hold, glassy face move. When you pitch off the crux, you fly out into space, in a very exposed local, Kurt said I was yelping, involuntarily... during flight.

It was a fantastic pitch and Tommy nearly on sighted it, apparently, Bad Ass, that guy.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Thanks for the detail on that pitch Coz.
Anything to flesh out real living and tell the tell is great stuff in my book!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Joe Hedge said:
I could go on

Dude, by all means go on; after all this is the unofficial, underground, fully dirtbag sanctioned Cosgrove Appreciation Thread.
There's no better place or time than right here, right now to kick out those rhythmic Cozzy-Jams rattling around in your head!
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