*Cosgrove Radio Interview: Stubborn Trad Guy Cleans up Act!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 23, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
http://www.hardknocks.tv/?p=483

He's not just a Dick who posts while drunk! Heh.
I've known Scott for a long time. His behavior on the forum can be … Passionate, opinionated, ... Gruff.

Check out this 50 min. stunt industry podcast interview to see him at his best.

Nothing revelatory here: just a candid talk with Coz.
Definitely On Topic … climbing related for the most part.
I'd say he's actually matured into a fine young man!

Way to go Scott, well done. A very down to earth piece.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 23, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
Cool interview, really enjoyed it. ...good job to the interviewers as well... they seemed a bit more informed on the subject than some, they asked good questions...
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 23, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
I remember somebody on here was still PISSED about the Muir drilling debacle, but how can you fault being completely sold-out to hard rock climbing? His list of FAs is more than enough bonafides.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 24, 2013 - 03:37am PT
Cool stuff! Way closer to on topic than usual.
Scott, what was the academy award for?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 08:15am PT
Cozzy: what are your four published book titles?
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:02am PT
Roy,

Not sure, if I should feel faltered or insulted? LOL.

Anyhow, Oh yes... Hard Knocks, called me to do a live radio broadcast, their theme was people who took it to the edge, in extreme sports and most importantly lived to talk about it. We sat down, he grabbed my resume, and started firing away questions.

I was lucky enough to spend a year rigging in 2002 with Mark Chapman and working for Jimmy R (owner), and Alex (our computer software designer and camera controller) of CableCam. We spent a very cold winter in Prague, building a three dimensional camera flying rig, the size and ability, possibly never seen before. We received a lot of praise and went on to build four more (at that time unique, 3 dimensional systems) in Canada, Malta, and San Francisco's, Candlestick Park, attempting and winning the contract to shoot pro football.

We applied for and won a Academy Award for technical achievement for our innovations in: combining computerized winches; with complex rigging; creating a large, fast, flying camera system.

A good example of some of our work would be, the POV of the Bat Brides, on Van Helsing and an almost 2000 foot, three D rig, covering the set of Troy, and the Trojan Horse attack and sacking of the city. We flew from high to low over 1400 actors, stuntman, and extras, creating about a (unheard off) four-second continuous shoot in the movie.

Mark, Alex and Jimmy were named only on the award, and my resumes only states,"I was part of a team that won an Academy Award.

As far as the books, my resume states, published writer, four books and magazine, something like that, to lazy to look at it.

I have written for many books, close to seven I think, I have no clue off hand, but if you do an Amazon search some should pop up.

Check out John Longs, Valley Climbers, and a recent issue of Alpinist, a couple years back for some stuff.

I was nervous, being on live radio, but it was a good time, and Rich Avery had done a fair amount of climbing and loved Yosemite, so he knew what to ask, and I really felt, as if I was talking to a climber, not someone trying to understand climbing.

Bottom Line... I felt very honored to be on such a legendary, Stunt families, radio show. The guy before me was Mario Andretti, LOL.



Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Just gave it a listen,,well done Coz! It was especially good that the interviewer had expirience to relate with.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Not sure, if I should feel faltered or insulted? LOL.

Ha!
Certainly no faltering going on here as your delivery was rocksolid and the pacing was crisp. Structured to be equally informative to the layman and the aficionado. Yes, basically a walk through your resume; I see that now. It's a good listen.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
Ya done good!!
Jacemullen

Trad climber
Oceanside
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
This guy is awesome. One of the most generous guys that I've met in a long time. Turns out he's a badass climber as well.

Damn.
Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
this was awesome...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Bump for the Coz!
Listen to his interview and put a voice to a face. Here's the pictures to go with:

 Hanging out with his buddies during 2008 Stonemaster reunion … look for the ball cap.
(Photos, Ron Gomez)


Coz with Banny, Mike Graham, and Bachar:




Scanning for UFOs with Will Oxx, Banny Root, Joe Hedge:




Tarbuster, Coz and Kate:

Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Scott you sounded like a nice guy on the radio. If you were nervous it wasn't obvious. If I do an interview I am usually nervous until it starts, then I relax and am in my element. Sort of like Dean Potter.
WBraun

climber
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
Tarbuster showing Kate how big Coz's balls are.



Kate looks, and thinks, "are they really that big ...... ?"

:-)
jghedge

climber
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
Wow, that was 5 years ago...!

Paul Parker in that top photo as well
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
WB: hahahahahahaaaha.
Touché! I mean, what else in the whole wide world could it possibly be?

Kate: "Yeah, wow, ... I mean ... ewe ... uh ... Awesome!"
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 25, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Coz is awesome




Send from my I Phone 5

:)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 07:29am PT
If you haven't listened to this radio interview, do so, as journalists rarely get the climbing thing so right and it is refreshing to see Cosgrove handle it so well overall.

In service of showcasing some of Scott's writing mentioned in the interview:
Coz Muir Wall/Shaft Article Climbing Magazine, May 1, 1998

From Mike Bolte’s scan on this terrific Supertopo thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/755069/muir-wall





















donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 26, 2013 - 08:07am PT
Nice pics of Coz in action....bravo!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:26am PT
I was in the valley in 93-94 and remember the drilling incident. Also probably jugged your lines up to mammoth a couple times.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 09:35am PT
Coz captured on Polaroid in his natural habitat some 20 years ago:

Walling, Swilliam, Tarbuster, and The Coz:




Amy and Coz:




Swilly, Coz, Russ, & Jobee:

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:43am PT
Is there a photo of coz climbing in a helmet anywhere?
WBraun

climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:47am PT
WTF would he need a helmet for?

Helmets are modern inventions.

Modern climbers have soft mushy heads today, just take one look at em today.

They lose it instantly over anything said to them.

Cry like girls on the internet too.

Modern climbers all climb with mattresses today too to protect their pussy feet.

Just see Tucker Tech's tough ass feet.

Back then men had hard heads and feet ......
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:51am PT
That’s right you mushy head Vitaliy!
Dr. F.

Big Wall climber
SoCal
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:07am PT
Credit: Dr. F.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Whoa. . . ole Coz is still as darling as ever!

I have a funny story about him. . . I wonder if he'd even remember it? ? ?

Blanchard and I were in the Valley for his Zodiac solo and my bestest girlfriend, Mare, was there to keep me company while he was on the wall. She is a pure bred Poratgee and THEE single biggest Dude Magnet I've ever known, even to this day!

Nonetheless, she went ten kinds of flippy floppy over ole Coz.

She's drop dead gorgeous and one night, she was dressed in the 9s in black capris and a black cashmere sweater (not your normal C4 attire) and. . as we were leaving the Foul Squeezings, he was sitting at one of the small tables near the window, I think he was with MisterHiskes. . . well. . . Mare had a peensie bit of wine with dinner and she was feeling a little frisky. . . and when we passed them, she completely draped herself over his table, on her back, and wrapped her arms around his neck and air kissed him. . . gracefully, she removed herself from the table, curtsied and we kept on keepin' on.

If memory serves, everybody referred to her as "TheLadyInBlack" for the rest of that trip.

We STILL joke about it.

HA!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Modern climbers all climb with mattresses today too to protect their pussy feet.

Yea, climbers today are pussies. Heard there is some sissy boy that needed every mattress is bishop to climb some 50 ft boulder problem. Too bad we weren't there to tell that boy to harden the f*#k up.

Oh how I miss the good ol days! :)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
eKaterinaPaparazzini generously delivered this snapshot:
"TheLadyInBlack" … went ten kinds of flippy floppy over ole Coz … completely draped herself over his table, on her back, and wrapped her arms around his neck and air kissed him … gracefully, she removed herself from the table, curtsied and we kept on keepin' on.

That's what I'm talking about!!!!!!!
We be on the verge of cranking up the Cozzy storytelling hour.
‘Go all Firesign Theatre on it if we must.

Who's holdin' ?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Oh and Vitaliy darling,

The sign above the bar says "Stubborn Trad Guy" … thread content likely to reflect that notion.
Don't put too much stock in the "Cleans Up Act" portion of the program.
Check your bouldering beanie and any other postmodern props at the door!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 26, 2013 - 07:43pm PT

eKaterinaPaparazzini generously delivered this snapshot:

Now. . . we've just gotta find out if ole Coz remembers it!

OXOXO
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:46am PT
I remember:)

I always loved dogs and who can resist such a cute one.

Shippopi and Karen had EB and Shultz had a dog named Arrow as I recall.

Those were the days, at the time they seemed like they'd never end and now they seem so long ago.

Thanks for the memories Roy, and to anyone who spent the time to hear me blather on for an hour.

Extreme climbing is interesting to reflect on, and the motivations for taking such risk.

I think for the Muir and Southern Belle, it was just a dream and a vision that we shared and wanted to make real. It gave us a sense of purpose and was just plan fun.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 27, 2013 - 05:09pm PT

I remember:)

Bitchen!

That was almost 30 years ago. . .

Dood!

T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
Nice work Coz. Your an honorable, genorous human being. Thank you for being a true visionary icon for our tribe. I hope we cross paths again sometime soon.

I like how a 5.16 is twice as hard as 5.8

Best Regards
Tommy T
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 27, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Coz used to wear a helmet...

Credit: G. Epperson
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 28, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Love that photo of Scott on G String. Total bad ass old school hard sh!t. Cali pride baby!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Damn straight.
Gotta think any red blooded male would remember an experience like that for life. As in: FeatherInCap♥♥♥™

No pressure or any-tings, like it's only been thurty years ... But ...
Now Coz, for big-time extra bonus Don Juan stylee points: what is/was Lady in Black's eye color? ...
jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Not fairly well known but

A reputable 5.14 cranker repeated one of Cozzy's old 13d's on the Baby Apes wall a few years back

Said it was harder than most of the 14b's he'd done


That would make it the first 14b in the States - done years before Super Tweak at Logan
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 28, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
That's pretty cool JGHedge...
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Mar 28, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
aahhh! The old days and what it must have been to be rad back when...







...the joints just tremble at the thoughts and memories.
jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
It holds up with comments Adam Ondra has made about grades getting easier

He said not too long ago that he didn't know of a 13d put up before 1990 that had been on-sighted, except by him

Also read recently that an Edlinger route from the 80's at Chateauvert called Are You Ready is currently considered to be the hardest 14a in France


So yeah, it makes sense that something rated 13d from that long ago was sandbagged as fuk
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
definitely makes sense...
jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
I took an in-his-prime Stefan Glowacz to Cozzy's route The Black Fly, rated 13b at the time, at the Lower Public Sanitation Wall, left of Cade's Final Cut - on which I belayed Cozzy on the FA of

Gros Vache was shut down, kids - ended up bailing by threading his cord through a bare bolt hanger and rapping (don't try that at home)

jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
I could go on
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
that would have been something to see- the fa and the fa ..lter ;-)

edit: I only wish I could falter on such a thing... to even give it a go is cool in my mind.
jghedge

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
the fa and the fa ..lter ;-)

Very clever
Anastasia

climber
Home
Mar 28, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Cos, exactly who are you? ;)


Seriously man, you are solid the exact minute you walk into a room without the history, resume, etc.

Kudos to you.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:02am PT
Great interview. Helluva resume but the part that impressed me most. 6400? client climbing days 0 accidents.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:04am PT
No pressure or any-tings, like it's only been thurty years ... But ...
Now Coz, for big-time extra bonus Don Juan stylee points: what is/was Lady in Black's eye color? ...

Well. . . I sorta gave that away in my little story. . . I mean. . . what Pedigree Portagee in the whole frikken world doesn't have BROWN eyes?

:-)

YeahYeah, all ya'lls know my ugly mug. . . but here's Mare. . . sitting on UmbrellaHead's right.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#288732
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 08:40am PT
Nice to see this thread finally get some legs!
What's the inscription on the pink T-shirts? Go Blanchard? Blinny's Babes?
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:47am PT
Mare made those shirts. . . Blanchard has one, too. . . he wore it on the route. . . the day this photo was taken was just a fixing day and he didn't want to wreck his. . . all three of them are pink. . . and Mare's and mine said:

ZODIAC '84

Official Ground and Summit Support Team

Blanchard's says:

ZODIAC SOLO '84

They started a trend. . . I made them for lots and lots of Blinny's solos. . . we still have 'em.

PRETTY RAD!

P.S. I still have those Vuarnets! And I wear them at high altitude, they're PX5000s.

CRACK ME UP!

P.P.S/ Blanchard does NOT still have his Vuarnets. . . he goes through sunglasses like women go through toilet paper. . . I stopped buying him Vuarnets at least 10 years ago.

AND. . . Mare WISHES she still had her Vuarnets!

:-)

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 09:07am PT
Kath you are such an all-around bust up!
Portuguese Water Dog a.k.a. Portagee; Yep, similarities w/Mare right down to the ultra-curly mop top and shaved legs!





... er did you just mean she's Portuguese. Heh.
Ain't no dog that's for sure.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 09:17am PT
Coz hanging some sky on the Free Muir/Shaft:



photo by Epperson? Or did The General snap this one?

... And judging by that post-mullet mop, maybe he's got some Portagee in him ...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 29, 2013 - 09:32am PT
So I went to the gym yesterday, and guess what I found? Found the original magazine with the story about almost free Muir wall ascent (one you guys posted in this thread)! Great read, really liked it. Have some questions for the author...

1) Scott, when did you start climbing? (Seems like you did midnight lightning when you were 20!)

2) In photos, I noticed you guys had pre-placed pro, at times with a longer and a shorter draw on it. Is that because aid routes usually only have a few solid placements on some pitches?

3) Did you ever make up with that guy from Muir wall FA team who refused to go to your slide show?

4) When you mention that at the time your new line was harder than anything on El Cap including the Nose do you mean it was much more sustained than anything? Since the nose is 5.14 and I think you guys free climbed to 5.13b, but had much more sustained climbing in 5.12 range...

Loved that this article was honest, and revealed some of the lows you guys had on the wall...funny how at that time people were bashing you for using a power drill to replace anchors and add some bolts to your variation. Can't even imagine how annoying that must of been after being on the wall for a long time and creating an almost free route up el cap!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 29, 2013 - 09:34am PT
"Established first ascents of four-A5- Grade Six rock climbs."

Scott- A quick pass through the 1996 Reid guide shows nothing in Yosemite that meets that description so where are these routes?
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:02am PT
We tried the route ground up and aided some of the pitches before we climbed them free. We often left the pro in, as to save time, and often did a real red point. I think I made a list of what we did on what pitch, but I can't remember now.

Yes, at the time the Nose was rated 13b and not 14a, so at that time the route was the longest most sustain route. Tommy never did it a push, but confirmed are grading, even saying it was stiff and sand bagged.

Yes, I made up with my friend, getting busted really bummed us out, on top of getting so close to an all free ascent. I started climbing in 77 and did Midnight Lighting at 19 or 20, in 1983-84.

Steve Gross,

Gerberding and I did two climbs together, one in Kolob and One in Yosemite, both I believe are as A5, but Steve calls them A4.

He called Jolly Roger A3 BTW. They feature death falls off sh#t gear a long way above the ground and ledges.

The other two are obscure walls, it the Desert, Kolob and have never been recorded, although I did a write about them in an Alpine Journal...I think.

We did a lot of walls together, including the first one day of Dark Star on El Cap, supposed Bridwell A5, but the FA we did were far harder. But I'm not getting in any aid debate with you old friend. LOL

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 29, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
Thanks a lot for clarifying, Scott. Loved the article and again congrats on your climb, even if it wasn't as perfect as you wanted, it is an amazing accomplishment to free so many HARD new pitches up there!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 30, 2013 - 05:58am PT
Clearly there has been a pointed need established here for a T-shirt kiosk and dog care center setup at the toe of El Cap.

Maybe too Patagonia can replicate the Portugese Water Dog "surface" in some of their limited-to-100 outerwear items.
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 30, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Lot's of crazy puppies in those days... I was too young and shy to know what they were really up too however, LOL.

Roy that's an Epi photo, it's the way around the bolt ladder, that leads right, over to the upper Muir, at the base of the traversing pitch leading to the Shield Roof.

It starts off on overhanging 12a/b and finishes on a big hold, glassy face move. When you pitch off the crux, you fly out into space, in a very exposed local, Kurt said I was yelping, involuntarily... during flight.

It was a fantastic pitch and Tommy nearly on sighted it, apparently, Bad Ass, that guy.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Thanks for the detail on that pitch Coz.
Anything to flesh out real living and tell the tell is great stuff in my book!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Joe Hedge said:
I could go on

Dude, by all means go on; after all this is the unofficial, underground, fully dirtbag sanctioned Cosgrove Appreciation Thread.
There's no better place or time than right here, right now to kick out those rhythmic Cozzy-Jams rattling around in your head!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Coz holds forth on Southern Bell

Extracted from this here supertopo wunder-thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html

Southern Belle

It loving memory of my friend, mentor and bad-ass human, Walt Shipley.

This story is for supertopo; any reproduction in any mag will be a violation of the Che Guevara power to the common people act.

I'll write as much as I can when I can, that's all I can do. The whole climb was an idea of Walt's, (Walt Shipley) he - in a mad bender - soloed the South Face Harding route, and in the process saw the line that would become Southern Belle.

He recruited, the boldest slab climber ever to grace planet earth to join him. Dave (Iron Monkey) Shultz. Dave had skipped bolts on the Bacher Yerian on-sight, and on a regular basis soloed 10 plus slabs in bare feet, up and down.

In a four - five day, ground up, big wall style push, the two climbed the Southern Belle, they tried to run it out as far as they could taking advantage of the plentiful and giant stances, all over the South Face. Years later, others would claim there are no stances; that is pure BS and an out right fabrication of the truth.

Walt and Dave both thought the line would go free, but Walt felt he lacked the free climbing skills to pull off the hard sections. Dave decided to fly to Boulder, Colorado and asked me to join him the following spring to free the thing, an offer I could not even consider turning down.

Between myself and Dave, we had climb almost every scary climb we could think of and wanted to do something beyond, something that would in the long run prove that the media darlings of the time, where not the only ones doing scary stuff.

Dave and I loved the idea of adventure and the beauty of the South Face-alone- above our own glory was really behind the idea of free climbing it; the magic dome truly seemed to be the greatest thing we could do with all the skills we had manage to muster.

It was a hundred degrees in the Valley, the day we hike to the base, sporting 100 pound packs and two girlfriends carrying their share. The girls-sun themselves as Dave and I thrashed up the first few pitches of the arch. I boulder out the first aid section and Dave had a go at the third pitch ( long OW to finger crack) falling short, pulling the rope and trying myself, I failed one move from the top.

We bailed and return the following weekend and stayed for four days, climbing the crack and launching onto the face proper only to be stop again at the crux 12d slab. The climbing to this point had been fairly safe and the quality- out of this world, we where adrift on a massive featured face. Dave manage to red point the crux slab and the 12a death-slab crack above. I lead the next pitch through some dam scary sections, I remember climbing one crack and then pimping to the next as the sun started to set.

The following weekend we climbed what remain of the aid climbing, except high on the upper pitches were - laid in wait for us, two more sections of aid.

I cried out in fear as we Jumared up our fixed lines and faced what Walt had named the Cuntress, a fine etch seam of tips lay backing and the rare bomber stopper. The Iron Monkey just dropped in stopper after stopper and floated the seam for a hundred and fifty feet of what must have been one of the best pitches on earth. I followed more marveling at the beauty of the climbing and location. It is like being in a golden desert surrounded by beautiful golden earth worms disturbing the surface in their sub-terrianing wanderings. Joining the smiling Iron Monkey at the belay, he said how hard do you think it was. "11b," I said, although I knew it was way harder.

It fact, Croft wanted to punch me after he failed on the pitch years later; for my sand bag. But, for the life of me it seemed just like a beautiful experience to climb. Then we ran out of fixing rope and decide to rap back down to camp for the night and rest the following day. I spent the day laying on my back looking up at the summit, the birds and the blazing hot sun and thought to myself, this could be my last day on the planet.

Dave assured me the following pitch, the one Hank would get off route on and break his leg was the most scary of his life. Walt had told the story of how Dave on that pitch, looking at a death fall from 12a moves, was calling out,"watch me, I could come off here." Walt said that he could only laugh, because the only thing he could do was watch him die.

I couldn't sleep, many aid section lay above, possible death and to make things worse I had lost my glasses. But I would wake, try or fall and die, there was no bail in my brain at that time. Dave just snored away and I was getting so pissed at him, that I threw a rock to wake him up, "What's wrong Coz." "I'm gonna die tomorrow and all you can do is sleep." "You can sleep too, just relax, you'll be fine, it's not up to us what happens." And with that he started to snore again as I toss and turned and dreaded the raising of the sun.

At first light we busted up our tattered lines, and drop them, committing to the summit. Traversing out a long dike I got to a blown out section with no bolt, f*#kers! I thought to myself as I balanced to the next section of dike. I threw in some bad gear and punch it up 40 feet of glass 5.11 to a big ledge with a bolt. The first in a 130 feet! A few easy moves, another ledge and another bolt and the wall steepen above me. Bouldering up twenty feet, now looking at a very bad fall... back down onto the serpent like dikes, mantling on a small ledge to my horror no bolt greeted me.

I was in a trance and committed to the 12a/b moves above, unsure of the next move, I felt like I was in another world, no thoughts, no fear, just pure survival, having been willing to fall and die I had no second thoughts, with a final slap I reached what I thought would be a good hold and wasn't, another three feet of hell finally got me gripping a large ledge and the belay. A changed man, and surely one of the only humans willing to do that section.

Little did I know the real amazing climbing lay above. Shultzy took off and flew up an easy but run out pitch that put us in the pot holes. Just huge scooped out holes of rock. Galen Rowel, said on the first ascent of the South Face that, a door would open, we'd walk inside and the key to all knowledge would be printed on the walls. But all I found was the crazed Iron Monkey with an old sling tied around a horn of diorite, that he called a belay.

I knew this was the second to last aid section left on the wall. Shultz and Walt both thought my size would help. Climbing up the outside of the first pot hole I reach up on to the blank vertical wall and found a small hole about 12 inch in diameter, pulled up, mantle, reach as high as I could and found another hole the same size. I repeated the mantle and looked in depression as the four feet to the next golden dike was overhanging and blank. I dime edged out of the hole, searched for an edge and to my complete shock found a four finger crimp. I pasted my feet high and threw a four foot dyno just grabbing the dike, mantling and walking the the top of the dike to the bivy ledge on the South Face route. I couldn't believe our luck and the beauty of the line, so impossible and improbable that if just a single feature where missing it would never go free.

I was near blind from the sun as Dave took over for the final aid section, a desperate slab in the horrible blinding heat, he fell off three times and we stop and ate our remaining food. I could almost not open my eyes, but Dave tried again this time nailing the crux and the 90' run out to a 11a mantle, the rock above the mantle turns to an overhanging dike, the rock by magic had large in cut jugs and you really couldn't believe the feeling of climbing through blank rock on overhanging jugs two thousand feet off the deck.

Walt's pitch at 11c was next and my nerves, eyes and mind had had it, I surge through not thinking or caring like a well oil robot just wanting off, 30 feet above my last bolt just cupping slopers and hoping for the best, I fell into the trance again and before I knew it the belay was in front of me.

I'd had it, my nerves where shoot and I couldn't open my eyes, Dave led the last two pitch that had one bolt for pro the last being 10c and has no gear, Leo Holding, years later, would lead this pitch with a rattled Dean Potter, and call it a life changing experience. The Iron Monkey just Laugh and joked and made it look easy.

I followed and soon found my friend at the summit, we knew we had done something amazing, something special. Walking down the outside of the cables with the amazed tourists watching, I remembered an old, overweight guy looking at me and saying,"you two are crazy," I look into his eyes and said," no my friend you are crazy."

We talk and dream of going back but never did and the years past and people tried to repeat the climb, we thought of bolting it to make it safe but when Walt died, we decided to leave it. We where very proud of our climb and thought that the next generation would certainly complete the many other possible (easy to see) lines on the face. We'd never imagine that in the future the boldest climbers would barely repeat the thing.

I remember being with my old friend soloing in Malibu Creek when we heard some guys had rap bolted a line next to ours and claim you couldn't do it on stance, I think I saw the Iron Monkey almost cry at the news,"It's just bullshit Coz," was all he managed." I said, "aw well, f*#k those guys," and my friend agreed.

Anyway, brief story hope u folks like it. Just my musing, if it means something to you then it means something. It's my hope you'll raise to the level of the past instead of beating it down with a heavy hand.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
Nice job on the extemporaneous report Scott.
My "Drool Cup" runneth over ....
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 30, 2013 - 01:05pm PT


...


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
!!!!!!!!!
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Mar 30, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
they tried to run it out as far as they could taking advantage of the plentiful and giant stances, all over the South Face. Years later, others would claim there are no stances; that is pure BS and an out right fabrication of the truth.

Yeah boyeee, mangled the ankles on one of those crazy dike/stances. Great story Coz.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Coz-Athon Interlude: the How and Why of the Mullet Qualifying As a "Helmet".

Vitaliy asked:
Is there a photo of coz climbing in a helmet anywhere?

Well Vitaliy, deep down in my memory banks lies a late 1980s/early 1990s image from a Patagonia or Access Fund advertisement featuring Cosgrove sitting on a portaledge wearing a helmet. (Maybe someone can dig that up and post it!). Maria always adored Scott and once confided in me that in her esteemed position as mover and shaker of the industry, she wanted to help support his bad self and his ballsy goals. I always figured she helped kickoff that ad.

Think about it Kideos: the mullet really is rather like a certain kind of helmet. Dig: a mullet protects the wearer’s identity, securing her/him in a particular place and time, safe from the onslaughts of hundreds if not thousands of years of other temporal possibilities. Anyone known for the mullet is safe and secure as having flourished in the 80s and 90s. The only thing that can come close to destroying the personal reality of those having worn the mullet is a giant asteroid from deep space striking EARTH in a dead on hit. That's one bad ass helmet!



But this development is fully and completely beside the point.

From Wikipedia:
The mullet is a hairstyle that is short at the front and sides, and long in the back.[1] The mullet began to appear in popular media in the 1960s and 1970s but did not become generally well known until the early 1980s. It continued to be popular until the mid-1990s










Greg Epperson captures the rare 100% purebred CanisYosemitusPortagis® mullet:




Then ... from Bakersfield's Free Press Newspaper:
In the western world, the mullet – long in back, short on top, is usually the sign of a blue collar Joe who likes nothing more than to play air guitar to his favorite Eighties rock groups. In fashion, it’s the sign of a clueless guy and signifies “slacker” or “loser.” The nation of Iran has taken that one step further and has outlawed the hairstyle for men altogether.

Again, from Wikipedia:
The Roman emperor Nero may have at one time adopted a hairstyle that resembled a mullet, judging from the writings of the ancient biographer Suetonius:
"He was utterly shameless in the care of his person and in his dress, always having his hair arranged in tiers of curls, and during the trip to Greece also letting it grow long and hang down behind".

Digg that shizzel friends, what do they know in Bakersfield or Iran anyhow, our man Scott's got loose curly ties to Roman Emperors!!!
WBraun

climber
Mar 30, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Ah hahahaha LOL

Yer killing me Roy ......
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Mar 30, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
Seen the guy doing some amazing things in "The Land of the Big Stone" back in the day. Man, those were some good times.. Scott was (is) an amazing climber, for sure.

The bad boys that de-flowered the Southern Belle.. She was never the same.
Credit: Walleye
Orangatun Arch
Orangatun Arch
Credit: Walleye
Credit: Walleye
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 31, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
This thread deserves a good bump.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 31, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Listened to the interview for the second time on the drive up to Josh with my partner. Still blown away at what a mellow, cool f*#kin' dude you are Coz.
Messages 1 - 70 of total 70 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews