Stevens Pass is a great route. The first (and only) bolts were placed on aid and are not in the best locations for clipping. When I first tried the route a couple of yellow slings were tied to the second bolt enabling easy clipping. We quickly dispatched this section which was face climbing and I think the technical crux. The next section is a steep layback up a bottoming crack. Back then it was protected with stoppers that at least for me were difficult to place. About 3/4 if the way up this section the laybacking is pretty strenuous and I began to doubt that if things got harder I'd be able to get any more gear in. So I grunted loudly acting like I was trying with all my might and took a few chicken falls onto some very close pieces and then lowered off. Later I found out that a move or two higher and it was all over.
Easter Overhang was 5.9 when I first did it. What happened?
Midnight was always my favorite crag in the Leavenworth area.On my first trip there in 1969 a group of local talent consisting of Jim Langdon, Al Givler, Mead Hargis, and Mark Weigelt were doing the first ascent of Jamm Session which we watched from Roller Coaster Chimney. All of the guidebooks have managed to get the FA of that one wrong and since three of those four are no longer with us and probably wouldn't have given a rip anyway, I thought I'd set the records straight.
EO?..yep 5.9. But I always thought it was pretty hard 5.9 ;)
SPM-ROTC link up was one of the best days I've had on rock.
I spent a lot of time up there on TRs, getting up and falling off things. As I remember it, all rather intimidating because of the approach (es), position and difficulty of the climbing. Best cracks in Leavenworth though I think.