Midnight Rock, Leavenworth:The Cookie Cliff of Washington

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MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Got some classics and the position is stunning!

Midnight Rock, Leavenworth WA
Midnight Rock, Leavenworth WA
Credit: MisterE

Yellow Bird - 5.10a, and Easter Overhang - 5.10c (MH2's picture):

Credit: MH2

ROTC - 5.11c. Thin fingers to thin hands. Sustained, with an interesting pod (M.Cash photo from Summitpost):

ROTC
ROTC
Credit: M.Cash

Never got on Steven's Pass Motel BITD, but I guess the bolts are bad now? It looked really hard.

Stories, pictures?

wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Mar 8, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
I know it's in the same general neighborhood, but I have always described the Index Town Wall as . . Sweet cracks, amazing location.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
I know it's in the same general neighborhood, but I have always described the Index Town Wall as . . Sweet cracks, amazing location.

All true, but the fact that a mountain range lies in that short distance between them means that one is often dry when the other is wet. (Hint: the one that is often wet is not Midnight Rock)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
I've still got gobies from that joint - no tape BITD - too expensive.
I still say Black Widow is one of the great route names.

Steve Barnett, of the Barnett Belay System, on Yellowbird.
Big rack, eh?
Credit: Reilly
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Two notorious slacklining greeners tried to sandbag me on ROTC during my first trip to leavenworth. Sadly, they'd never seen gallencamp scats in action before. That was a fun day. The look on their faces is a most cherished memory.

Woodson 11a, on the outside.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
Hey, it does kinda look like the Cookie Cliff.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Cool pic of Yellow Bird, Reilly! That's a great route.

The flare/roof bit past the fixed pin on Easter Overhang is tricky:

Stay inside, it's like .11- squeeze flare

go outside, scary, exposed .10c.

Good times!

;)

Great story, BVB! That thing kicked my ass! Gassed by the flare, and couldn't figure out the pod exit...just where it gets steeper. Meh.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
SUPER climbing.....bit of a long hike for today's crowd- uphill at that.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
Isn't there an approach from the back side? Have always wanted to go up there. I can climb that rock in a day.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Just found this - pretty cool 2nd? ascent of a 5.12b/c, past ROTC:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/833590/1
MH2

climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
Notice Bryan Burdo in the Easter Overhang pic. We got driven to the top once and hiked DOWN which saved us the energy to do ROTC. Wish I could remember who gave us the ride. Thanks. I liked the note in a Mountain magazine (the Ken Wilson one) by some Brits who did the second ascent of ROTC; according to them it was harder and longer than Butterballs. We also once met Kim Momb up there after his East face of Everest trip and he told us about carrying John Roskelly down the North Ridge. For Momb the hike up from the road with a heavy pack was not much of an effort.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
Gonna have to have to go up there now. Summit Post says Croft soloed ROTC 25 years ago.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 8, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Midnight Rock, the best crack climbing this side of Yosemite. The place is magical. Becky put up most of the routes there on aid. The rest is history. It is usually closed now into Summer due to peregrine nesting, bummer.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:02am PT
Croft soloed ROTC 25 years ago


..........it may have been before that. I mean if he did free solo it. I think he did. But it was earlier than '88.


Midnight Rock is a fabulous crag. It was always well protected by that horrible vertical dirt-ditch approach. And no water up there. We one time took a road around the back of the ridge lump that MR sits on in a retarded effort to find the crag from the top down. I have no clue why we were that stupid but we sure tried it. Got lost. Guffaw.

Loads of wonderful memories from Midnight Rock; my most fave route would have to be ROLLERCOASTER CHIMNEY!!! Epic !!!!
MH2

climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:16am PT
Midnight isn't visible from above but Bryan took us straight there with his mysterious route-finding sense.

Another look at ROTC




Curtains?

MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:20am PT
This is trippy, and I never noticed it before - cross-post from Levy's thread:

Highlights of natural features
Highlights of natural features
Credit: MisterE
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Mar 9, 2013 - 02:15am PT
Midnight Rock is a world class crag.
So many great routes for everyone.
ROTC is wicked good and bad ass 3rd class by Pedro waaaaay back in the day!
Then there's Pat Timson's Supercrack, he called it wide fist.
Cherished memories.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 9, 2013 - 02:33am PT
http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/Tumwater.htm
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Mar 9, 2013 - 05:10am PT
Tami is right about it being confusing to approach from the road on the other side.

The road reaches the crest at a place perhaps 1/3 mile north of the MR area and parking there... a party can walk south along the crest. The regular slog past Castle Rock is simpler approach

Occasionally, elk can be seen in early morning along the crest

The wilderness ranger likely patrols MR with binoculars through July 31. Climbers have intruded directly through the raptor nesting site in past years.
Darryl Cramer

Social climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Index is definitely the Cookie Cliff of Wa but Midnight makes a good Arch Rock!

MH2 is that Brian Scott in the Curtains picture?

And speaking of Bryan: back about 30 years ago when I first came to WA Bryan convinced me to go to the Wild Traverse/Apron Jam route. I don't understand why this isn't more popular than Outer Space. To my mind it's a much more enjoyable route. Using the left dots its 5.9 and going up the flame it's only 5.8. Full pitch of easy 5.6 jamming up the final slab.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Pat Timson, Supercrack Maestro wondering...

"Where's that Mastadon with lunch?"


Nice pants, Pat.
Darryl Cramer

Social climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
Stevens Pass is a great route. The first (and only) bolts were placed on aid and are not in the best locations for clipping. When I first tried the route a couple of yellow slings were tied to the second bolt enabling easy clipping. We quickly dispatched this section which was face climbing and I think the technical crux. The next section is a steep layback up a bottoming crack. Back then it was protected with stoppers that at least for me were difficult to place. About 3/4 if the way up this section the laybacking is pretty strenuous and I began to doubt that if things got harder I'd be able to get any more gear in. So I grunted loudly acting like I was trying with all my might and took a few chicken falls onto some very close pieces and then lowered off. Later I found out that a move or two higher and it was all over.

MH2

climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
Yes, Darryl. Brian Scott.

Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
Easter Overhang was 5.9 when I first did it. What happened?
Midnight was always my favorite crag in the Leavenworth area.On my first trip there in 1969 a group of local talent consisting of Jim Langdon, Al Givler, Mead Hargis, and Mark Weigelt were doing the first ascent of Jamm Session which we watched from Roller Coaster Chimney. All of the guidebooks have managed to get the FA of that one wrong and since three of those four are no longer with us and probably wouldn't have given a rip anyway, I thought I'd set the records straight.



MH2

climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
Brooks and Whitelaw have it at 5.9 PLUS.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Mar 10, 2013 - 01:40am PT
EO?..yep 5.9. But I always thought it was pretty hard 5.9 ;)

SPM-ROTC link up was one of the best days I've had on rock.

I spent a lot of time up there on TRs, getting up and falling off things. As I remember it, all rather intimidating because of the approach (es), position and difficulty of the climbing. Best cracks in Leavenworth though I think.
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