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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Got some classics and the position is stunning!
Yellow Bird - 5.10a, and Easter Overhang - 5.10c (MH2's picture):
ROTC - 5.11c. Thin fingers to thin hands. Sustained, with an interesting pod (M.Cash photo from Summitpost):
Never got on Steven's Pass Motel BITD, but I guess the bolts are bad now? It looked really hard.
Stories, pictures?
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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I know it's in the same general neighborhood, but I have always described the Index Town Wall as . . Sweet cracks, amazing location.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I know it's in the same general neighborhood, but I have always described the Index Town Wall as . . Sweet cracks, amazing location.
All true, but the fact that a mountain range lies in that short distance between them means that one is often dry when the other is wet. (Hint: the one that is often wet is not Midnight Rock)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I've still got gobies from that joint - no tape BITD - too expensive.
I still say Black Widow is one of the great route names.
Steve Barnett, of the Barnett Belay System, on Yellowbird.
Big rack, eh?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Two notorious slacklining greeners tried to sandbag me on ROTC during my first trip to leavenworth. Sadly, they'd never seen gallencamp scats in action before. That was a fun day. The look on their faces is a most cherished memory.
Woodson 11a, on the outside.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Hey, it does kinda look like the Cookie Cliff.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Cool pic of Yellow Bird, Reilly! That's a great route.
The flare/roof bit past the fixed pin on Easter Overhang is tricky:
Stay inside, it's like .11- squeeze flare
go outside, scary, exposed .10c.
Good times!
;)
Great story, BVB! That thing kicked my ass! Gassed by the flare, and couldn't figure out the pod exit...just where it gets steeper. Meh.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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SUPER climbing.....bit of a long hike for today's crowd- uphill at that.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Isn't there an approach from the back side? Have always wanted to go up there. I can climb that rock in a day.
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MH2
climber
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Notice Bryan Burdo in the Easter Overhang pic. We got driven to the top once and hiked DOWN which saved us the energy to do ROTC. Wish I could remember who gave us the ride. Thanks. I liked the note in a Mountain magazine (the Ken Wilson one) by some Brits who did the second ascent of ROTC; according to them it was harder and longer than Butterballs. We also once met Kim Momb up there after his East face of Everest trip and he told us about carrying John Roskelly down the North Ridge. For Momb the hike up from the road with a heavy pack was not much of an effort.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Gonna have to have to go up there now. Summit Post says Croft soloed ROTC 25 years ago.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Midnight Rock, the best crack climbing this side of Yosemite. The place is magical. Becky put up most of the routes there on aid. The rest is history. It is usually closed now into Summer due to peregrine nesting, bummer.
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MH2
climber
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Midnight isn't visible from above but Bryan took us straight there with his mysterious route-finding sense.
Another look at ROTC
Curtains?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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This is trippy, and I never noticed it before - cross-post from Levy's thread:
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Midnight Rock is a world class crag.
So many great routes for everyone.
ROTC is wicked good and bad ass 3rd class by Pedro waaaaay back in the day!
Then there's Pat Timson's Supercrack, he called it wide fist.
Cherished memories.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Tami is right about it being confusing to approach from the road on the other side.
The road reaches the crest at a place perhaps 1/3 mile north of the MR area and parking there... a party can walk south along the crest. The regular slog past Castle Rock is simpler approach
Occasionally, elk can be seen in early morning along the crest
The wilderness ranger likely patrols MR with binoculars through July 31. Climbers have intruded directly through the raptor nesting site in past years.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Index is definitely the Cookie Cliff of Wa but Midnight makes a good Arch Rock!
MH2 is that Brian Scott in the Curtains picture?
And speaking of Bryan: back about 30 years ago when I first came to WA Bryan convinced me to go to the Wild Traverse/Apron Jam route. I don't understand why this isn't more popular than Outer Space. To my mind it's a much more enjoyable route. Using the left dots its 5.9 and going up the flame it's only 5.8. Full pitch of easy 5.6 jamming up the final slab.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Pat Timson, Supercrack Maestro wondering...
"Where's that Mastadon with lunch?"
Nice pants, Pat.
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