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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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My first shoes in '73 were Pivetta Red Spiders. Anyone remember them? Switched to EB's after about 6 months and that was that. Until Gallencamp Scats came along...
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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My first pair of boots were bought in 1977 so I'm guessing they'd been around for a few years before then. They were a pair of Hawkins with blue suede uppers.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Don,
Thanks for the great picture. I first climbed in an old pair of Zillertols (similar to Kronhoffers), then RR's, PA's and Bill Dolt Blue Boots (Chris Vandever thought they were sold by Ellis Brigham as "Gollies"), and EB's, so your picture captures my footwear evolution quite well. I kept using PA's bouldering when I moved from Berkeley to LA, though, because the sandstone at Stoney Point wore the EB's too quickly.
I had a pair of Asolo Canyons later in the 1970's, that I thought were the successor to "Shoe-n-ards," but I never cared for them.
John
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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EB's were a game changer. I think it was John Morton who came in the UCHC office in Eshleman Hall on a Monday to report that if you slipped on Arches Terrace you'd come to a stop wearing them. Had to get a pair and try it out! Sure enough, jumping backwards, releasing, and coming back down you'd stop dead.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Other brands...
Solda's (A Gunks thing...)
???
RR's (Thanks to T Hocking)
Yellow and Black ???
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Storer, when were you at Berkeley? As a four-year denizen of the Eschelman Hall basement (not to mention, a regular user of the space between the pillars on the outside for off-width practice), I don't remember widespread use of EB's in Berkeley until about 1972, but I do remember running across them in the late 1960's, and wishing I had a pair. I think Bill Dolt was selling them for around $20.00.
John
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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In the sixties, I was ordering my RD's direct from France. $15 including shipping and duty. And the leather on RD uppers was thick!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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They're all wearing socks. Some pulled up to the knees, lederhosen style. That's before my time.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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They're all wearing socks. Some pulled up to the knees, lederhosen style. That's before my time.
From a land before time: RD's and two pair of socks, one pair knee socks, for bouldering yet:
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Always climbed in kronhoffers... until at the base of moby dick in yos I realized I'd left my shoes out of the pack and in order to do the climb my partner lowered his ebs down, I slipped them on and was off. What an eye opener that was. Those shoes were a game changer. Especially on face like the apron. Try any apron face climb in kronhoffers and you'll see what I mean... you have to work twice as hard to get anywhere. Don't think there's any doubt as to how much equipment has contributed to what climbing is today.
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Hey McHale, thanks for the recognition of Rock 2
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Fascinating history thread!
Did the RD shoe appear in red and blue also? I remember dad having a blue leather pair with red trim with "Rene Desmaison" inscribed in the ankle area. (not the blue leather Royal Robbins shoe with lug soles) ??
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steve shea
climber
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EBs just happen to fit my feet really well. I usally bought them fit with bare feet.I would cram my feet in with a Wigwam type ragg sock and step into hot water for a full soaking and wear till almost dry. There was just enough stretch to result in a perfect almost pain free fit. As they stretched more with use eventually I could get the ragg on all the time, they were awesome for cracks. When newer and tight, great for face. I usually had quite a few pairs in rotation. They wore out fast on me. Desmaison had his name on several types. I saw many strange boots when living in France. Typically the RD referred to in the states were the stiff brown ones but there were others. We actually imported our first EBs from Ellis Brigham in the UK early 70's. Brigham had several shops in the UK and gave us a great deal on 20pr. Just shipped them airfreight no customs. I don't know why. Anyone ever climb in Lephoque's (sp)? I bought a pair from Teton Mountaineering in the late 60's. Used them for one resoling and several flaps. They had rubber flaps covering the laces. They climbed great looked funky. I donated them back to TM for their little alpine display. They are hanging in the store now, same pair.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Thanks, Steve...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I had a pair of La Phoques that I bought at Ski Hut in Berkeley in 1969 for $24.00, and kept until the LA smog rotted away the rubber cover ten years later. They were excellent mountaineering boots, provided you didn't try to hike too far in them (that fiberglass midsole wasn't made for flexion) and even worked OK at Pinnacles.
My biggest fear was that someone who knew French would pronounce their name correctly. I also lusted after the LeRoux "John Harlin" model, but finances limited me.
John
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steve shea
climber
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You are welcome Jennie! RGold that's the one. At the time I also got a pair of Carman Supergaitors. TM had them before Chouinard got hold of them. TM had the goods. One of the best shops in the US bitd.
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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John: I was at Berkeley '62 - '66 so we probably didn't overlap then. I was back in California say '75 - '78. Could I be wrong about when EB's became available? Could be....Do you remember the climb of the pillar in Faculty Glade, or the night ascents of the chimney between the Greek Theatre columns with the descent down the rickety ladder, or those "pinnacles" on the face of the Campanile? Long ago so my mind fails me.......I was watching Cal Bears hoops the other night on TV and they toured those old haunts......cool.....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The West Ridge ad showing the classic after shot.
Love 'em to death with hint of knicker too.
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