Photo History of Climbing Footwear circa 1974

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can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:04am PT
I bought my first pair of EB's from England in 75. I was living in Germany and they hadn't heard of them there yet. There was an ad in Mountain magazine from a shop who if you traced an outline of your foot on a piece of paper and sent it to them with 20 bucks, they'd ship you a pair they thought was right for your foot. I think the only time those shoes ever felt good was at the end of their life when they were completely blown out.
Credit: can't say

Edit: Twistedcrank, I got them a week or so before taking this shot.
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:50am PT
Those EBs look quite fresh.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 6, 2013 - 09:59am PT
RD's at work, winter, Gunks, mid-sixties.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:03am PT
rack o pins, and those edgy baztids! NICE!
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:40am PT
Don, Isn't that a Larry Reynolds photo that became a WestRidge ad with the caption something like, "Kronhofers-Still on top!"

By then, Zillertals were not sold much tho some lads still had them around. Where's that pic of Russ' old pair? I still have a pair of both Zillertals and Kronhofers which would be suitable for wearing to this day.

Klettershue is the German translation of "climbing shoes" and both Zillertals and Kronhofers were made in Austria, so the word in English became "klettershoe."

L to R: EBs, Kronhofers, Zillertals
L to R: EBs, Kronhofers, Zillertals
Credit: BooDawg

Seems like RR preferred Cortina Spiders for many years tho he may (or may not) have switched to his own brand after their appearance. The classic pic of RR by Glen Denny shows RR wearing his RR shoes. What did he wear on the FA of Tis-sa-ak in 1969?

RR by Glen Denny, 1969
RR by Glen Denny, 1969
Credit: Glen Denny
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 6, 2013 - 11:47am PT
RR is wearing Robbins Boots (so comfortable you can wear them to work)
in that photo, Boo.
There is a shot of him wearing Spiders in Basic Rockcraft, the picture
demonstrating the heel-toe jam. The Spiders had thicker midsoles than
Cortinas, as well as extra leather at the heel cup.
In most pictures it would probably be hard to tell the difference between
Cortinas and Zillertals.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
My first shoes in '73 were Pivetta Red Spiders. Anyone remember them? Switched to EB's after about 6 months and that was that. Until Gallencamp Scats came along...
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
My first pair of boots were bought in 1977 so I'm guessing they'd been around for a few years before then. They were a pair of Hawkins with blue suede uppers.
Joe Brown helmet, Whillans harness, Hawkins boots and a Hex 9 I was de...
Joe Brown helmet, Whillans harness, Hawkins boots and a Hex 9 I was determined to place somewhere.

Credit: Andy Fielding
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Don,

Thanks for the great picture. I first climbed in an old pair of Zillertols (similar to Kronhoffers), then RR's, PA's and Bill Dolt Blue Boots (Chris Vandever thought they were sold by Ellis Brigham as "Gollies"), and EB's, so your picture captures my footwear evolution quite well. I kept using PA's bouldering when I moved from Berkeley to LA, though, because the sandstone at Stoney Point wore the EB's too quickly.

I had a pair of Asolo Canyons later in the 1970's, that I thought were the successor to "Shoe-n-ards," but I never cared for them.

John
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
EB's were a game changer. I think it was John Morton who came in the UCHC office in Eshleman Hall on a Monday to report that if you slipped on Arches Terrace you'd come to a stop wearing them. Had to get a pair and try it out! Sure enough, jumping backwards, releasing, and coming back down you'd stop dead.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Other brands...


Solda's (A Gunks thing...)



???


RR's (Thanks to T Hocking)


Yellow and Black ???

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Storer, when were you at Berkeley? As a four-year denizen of the Eschelman Hall basement (not to mention, a regular user of the space between the pillars on the outside for off-width practice), I don't remember widespread use of EB's in Berkeley until about 1972, but I do remember running across them in the late 1960's, and wishing I had a pair. I think Bill Dolt was selling them for around $20.00.

John
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
WOW!! GREAT THREAD !!!! SO GLAD it's not in SMELL-O-RAMA!!


Bought my first EB's in 1978 - size 36 - 33$CDN at MEC in their shop at 4th x Arbutus here in Van.

I loved my Robbins boots. Nearly wore the lugs right of the soles. Finally murdered them treeplanting in the '80's. Yeah........stupid move.

Scored two pairs of the Shoenards in Fresno in the mid'80's for about 10$each. They were size 4 or something and nobody wanted 'em . :-) Haa!!!!

Glad that the bare hoof is also shown in the pic.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
In the sixties, I was ordering my RD's direct from France. $15 including shipping and duty. And the leather on RD uppers was thick!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
rgold,
in your 3rd pic down those are RR's shoe not PA's
i'm wearing them in this late 70's pic
J-Tree Bouldering
J-Tree Bouldering
Credit: T Hocking
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
They're all wearing socks. Some pulled up to the knees, lederhosen style. That's before my time.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
They're all wearing socks. Some pulled up to the knees, lederhosen style. That's before my time.

From a land before time: RD's and two pair of socks, one pair knee socks, for bouldering yet:

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

pre-chalk days tu...
richross

Trad climber
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Credit: richross
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Mar 6, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Always climbed in kronhoffers... until at the base of moby dick in yos I realized I'd left my shoes out of the pack and in order to do the climb my partner lowered his ebs down, I slipped them on and was off. What an eye opener that was. Those shoes were a game changer. Especially on face like the apron. Try any apron face climb in kronhoffers and you'll see what I mean... you have to work twice as hard to get anywhere. Don't think there's any doubt as to how much equipment has contributed to what climbing is today.
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