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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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Here is better advice on anchors:
If you are questioning your anchor and the leader is questioning the moves and the gear above the belay, it's time to back off.
People over complicate this sport.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Feb 23, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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The thing I like about anchors is...
the more diverse my climbing becomes, the more diverse my knowledge of anchors has become, while getting simpler and simpler.
When everything I climbed had a tree on it, the girth hitch was the only tool I could remember.
When I reached the smooth topped peaks, I learned that one bomber piece and a firm hip belay from a bomber stance could hold a TR fall...even when my partner was practically double my weight.
And dangling on a sleek wave of granite, I learned that I have no shame in putting in a fourth, or even 5th piece if I feel like it...
After all, sometimes it doesn't hurt to let the second lug up some of that weight!
hehehe, happy climbing!
Cheers
LS
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 23, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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Sure people over-complicate, but the present example illustrates an opposite tendency to oversimplify. Bad anchors, questionable moves and pro ahead---how the hell is the party gonna back off? And what if, for example, they are way up on a wall in a remote setting?
I think this situation is one of the most nuanced---and hence complicated---a party can face.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Feb 23, 2013 - 02:20am PT
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I know some climbers who'd say
"that's when the climbing starts. Just be glad it's not raining...let's get off this rock!"
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crazies!
Cheers
LS
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 23, 2013 - 09:14am PT
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AM I GUNNA DIE???????
probably with that link cam in there...
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Feb 23, 2013 - 11:51am PT
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Anchors r 4 pussys
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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BlueWing..... you got the anchoring system down.
Let me tell you about that Kris' dudes anchors'
Its called the "Standing Balance - hand over hand - No gear required"
page 69 of Largos book.... if I recall.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 25, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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BK sed:
I guess the other thing alluded to here ( thanks again to the author) was that all belays should be created for easy escape and instant conversion into lowering / rescue rappeling and ideally even raising. I certainly can get a bit lazy especially with double ropes but when the sh#t hits the fan - which is why we rope up in the first place - you need a single bomber point that you can instantly escape from, especially if your partner is entering the "golden hour" zone of getting to surgery ASAP.
Minimize clusterf*#k at the station by building it out of the minimum amount of biners and slings. The simpler the anchor piece interconnects are the better. Make 2 tie in points easily unclipable with large biners like Petzl Attaches. Orient to the direction(s) of predicted pull, including up. The simplest belays are made with just the rope, and 3 good pieces attached by only 3 or 4 biners. This includes you Big Mike ...
Sliding X always works because you load tested your primary anchor points first to be certain it's not going to blow.
Carry a small knife in your pocket and spare rap slings/cord in the pack. Carry two short prussiks on your harness for managing a weighted rope and for backing up your rappels.
Cordellette = Bullsh#t
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 25, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
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You know, bottom line, just keep putting stuff in till you feel comfortable. Allow for an upward pull, tie the whole mess together and you'll be good.
Given that the bases of cliffs world wide are not littered with bodies, most of the anchors climbers build must work.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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Pure RGold to be found here, love the advice and discussion.
I keep the "Climbing Anchors" book by Largo and Bob Gaines by my bed for frequent reading. I take forever to build an anchor - out of paranoia - and none have ever failed, but then none have ever had to hold a fall..... Yes, they have held for TR and rappel.
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