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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Feb 21, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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OP do you mind if I ask why you want to do this? There's so much else to climb...
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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trip report please...
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Feb 21, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Why do you want to rap?
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Googlymoogly
climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Werner said:
Whatever ... but if you fuk up either way or any way and need to be rescued you'll be out of $1000 or more immediately.
Is it me or does this sound like someone else talking? Maybe the LEO? I wonder if I tried to fight my violation if Werner's opinion that my partner screwed up would hold or if the LEO and others would "convince" him to change his tune.
But yeah, read the "Rappelling El Capitan" thread. If your partner decides they would prefer a full blown rescue to simply ascending a rope, you might be hosed too.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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I agree with Kevin (warbler) that if I were rapping, I'd start on the slabs north of the Visor. If you're working the Zig-Zags, though, will a 70m rope suffice? The Zig-Zags start at Big Sandy, which is more tham one 70m rope would reach from Thank God Ledge, if I remember rightly (which, at my age, is unlikely).
John
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:44am PT
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The Zig-Zags alone are more like 85-90 meters and there is a pitch above them (or two traversing ones to be precise), so altogether 110-120 meters from the top maybe? So to be clear, one rope is definitely not enough. But it has already been said above..
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Feb 22, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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Screw that....Im rappin' that thing from top to bottom. Thinking of chartering a covert heli to take me to the top. How are the snow conditions? Can I ski the death slabs?
EDIT: If anyone hears someone yelling Googly Mooogly, that is my safe word and it means I need rescue. Come get me WBraun
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 22, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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For fuk's sake you weezing wankers - he wants to preview the zig-zags for a free attempt.
I have heard 2x200' ropes end-end will make it, but you have to be swinging a bit or you'll be in space, just out from Big Sandy - but I have not done this myself.
The hard climbing in the Zig Zags is 4-5 moves. If you can't fire these on your second try, after a 3-5 min work session, after climbing up from the bottom - you're too weak to free the route, IMO. Previewing, therefore, is a waste of time and energy.
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Barbarian
climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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I'm thinking about rapping Monday Morning Slab. Should I take one helmet for the rockfall or two?
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
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1 for each head
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
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Isn't the glassy 11D dihedral also kind of a redpoint crux?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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I'm guessing he wants to do a photoshoot.
Like the Jimmy Chin shot on the National Geo cover.
Is this going to be a fashion shoot?? Lingere?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 22, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Seems like a couple days spent climbing hard, sustained right-facing tips corners would be a better use of one's energy.
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My favorite was the Super Bowl shuffle. I'll make sure I have that one dialed before I go to valley!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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I suppose if you do it now it would not be interfering with ground up parties. If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed. Why don't you put in some milage on routes of similar difficulty then have a go from the ground.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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Why not just climb the route? It's not that hard to get up to the Zig Zags.
Seems like bad style and a way to slow everyone else down.
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erik fischer
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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Were definitely not going to block anyone from climbing it. If we have to we will do it at night, work the pitches and get out of the way of anyone trying to make it to the top. Good idea to work some other climbs 1st of equal difficultly and style. I'll talk it over with my partner.
Thanks
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed.
You know I've often thought the same thing. I climbed Salathe in 1981. There was no-one else on the route. I can't really imagine how disappointed I'd be if I'd pulled around the roof onto the headwall to find a fixed rope down from the top and someone working those next pitches.
Edit: I hadn't seen Erik's reply when I posted this.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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What's happened is people don't know or forgot how to climb anymore.
Gotta do everything at all costs to make it "Free"
Everything goes.
Just beat it into submission by rehearsing the sh!t out of it enough until you get it wired.
The result is not "Free" anymore, but bondage.
Then broadcast "I did it" yep you sure did :-)
Whatever floats yer boat ....
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