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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 21, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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Does anybody know if a 60 meter rope will reach the thank god ledge if you rap in from the visor?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 21, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
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Oh great googliemooglie another rapping epic waiting to happen LOL
YER Gunna....
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 21, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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Yes, someone knows . . . but not me. I never tried to measure the distance from Thank God Ledge to the top of the Visor, but it never seemed all that far away. Still, unless you're planning on jugging back up, I'd take more than one rope.
John
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 21, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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'thought you had a new song...
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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We're bringing 2 ropes (1 70 and 1 60). The 60 is thicker so we wanted to use that for the rap and 70 to work the zig zags. We're just not 100% it will reach the ledge.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 21, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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You're planning to rappel the mighty Half Dome? There's another thread around here somewhere about rappelling El Cap.
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bigwall shitter
Social climber
the wild west
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Feb 21, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
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tourons will dismantle your anchor so that when you try and jug out you'll die fer sure.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 21, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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...(1 70 and 1 60)...
That's sounding bad from the get go...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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work the zig zags? WTF Can't you just climb up them and call it good?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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While youre at it, rap in and top rope the last pitch of Southern Belle.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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No pre-rehearsal! You got this thing. :)
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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Don't rap in from the visor, that's st00pid! Tourons will have at your anchor.
Downclimb the 4th class blocks to the top of the last technical pitch and rap from there. Then "yes" a 60m will work. Leave a fixed rope or that French team that passes you will surely take off with your gear. Even with the fixed rope you have a 50/50 chance.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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A 60 and 70 meter rope should work if you know what you're doing.
Do you know what you're doing?
I'm not going to explain how, and if you don't know how don't bother.
One other problem is it's not a simple straight forward rap to big sandy ledge.
You have to do some traversing.
By far the easiest way is using a 500 plus rope from the top with straight shot to big sandy.
Whatever ... but if you fuk up either way or any way and need to be rescued you'll be out of $1000 or more immediately.
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Out of pocket, on the spot!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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is it common to rap in to work the zig zags on HD? Seems like a major pain in the ass... might even be easier to just do the regular NWF french free to get there, lol. At least you get more rock climbing in! :D
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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Werner, I like that response much better then "It's piss easy, anyone can do it" for sure.
Two different length ropes makes me nervous.
It's 1000 or more for a tech rescue, and 900 if you just get a litter ride from the base of El Cap - watch out, they are serious about those fines. Have to agree that it sounds like a big pain in the wazoo to me.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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500 plus rope
better hire this dude
But it'll cost you... like seven dollars.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
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ground floor on a RAP thread f yeah!!11!!
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Feb 21, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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OP do you mind if I ask why you want to do this? There's so much else to climb...
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Feb 21, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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trip report please...
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Feb 21, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Why do you want to rap?
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Googlymoogly
climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Werner said:
Whatever ... but if you fuk up either way or any way and need to be rescued you'll be out of $1000 or more immediately.
Is it me or does this sound like someone else talking? Maybe the LEO? I wonder if I tried to fight my violation if Werner's opinion that my partner screwed up would hold or if the LEO and others would "convince" him to change his tune.
But yeah, read the "Rappelling El Capitan" thread. If your partner decides they would prefer a full blown rescue to simply ascending a rope, you might be hosed too.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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I agree with Kevin (warbler) that if I were rapping, I'd start on the slabs north of the Visor. If you're working the Zig-Zags, though, will a 70m rope suffice? The Zig-Zags start at Big Sandy, which is more tham one 70m rope would reach from Thank God Ledge, if I remember rightly (which, at my age, is unlikely).
John
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:44am PT
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The Zig-Zags alone are more like 85-90 meters and there is a pitch above them (or two traversing ones to be precise), so altogether 110-120 meters from the top maybe? So to be clear, one rope is definitely not enough. But it has already been said above..
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Feb 22, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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Screw that....Im rappin' that thing from top to bottom. Thinking of chartering a covert heli to take me to the top. How are the snow conditions? Can I ski the death slabs?
EDIT: If anyone hears someone yelling Googly Mooogly, that is my safe word and it means I need rescue. Come get me WBraun
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 22, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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For fuk's sake you weezing wankers - he wants to preview the zig-zags for a free attempt.
I have heard 2x200' ropes end-end will make it, but you have to be swinging a bit or you'll be in space, just out from Big Sandy - but I have not done this myself.
The hard climbing in the Zig Zags is 4-5 moves. If you can't fire these on your second try, after a 3-5 min work session, after climbing up from the bottom - you're too weak to free the route, IMO. Previewing, therefore, is a waste of time and energy.
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Barbarian
climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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I'm thinking about rapping Monday Morning Slab. Should I take one helmet for the rockfall or two?
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 22, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
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1 for each head
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
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Isn't the glassy 11D dihedral also kind of a redpoint crux?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 22, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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I'm guessing he wants to do a photoshoot.
Like the Jimmy Chin shot on the National Geo cover.
Is this going to be a fashion shoot?? Lingere?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 22, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Seems like a couple days spent climbing hard, sustained right-facing tips corners would be a better use of one's energy.
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erik fischer
Trad climber
houston
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My favorite was the Super Bowl shuffle. I'll make sure I have that one dialed before I go to valley!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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I suppose if you do it now it would not be interfering with ground up parties. If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed. Why don't you put in some milage on routes of similar difficulty then have a go from the ground.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Feb 24, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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Why not just climb the route? It's not that hard to get up to the Zig Zags.
Seems like bad style and a way to slow everyone else down.
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erik fischer
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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Were definitely not going to block anyone from climbing it. If we have to we will do it at night, work the pitches and get out of the way of anyone trying to make it to the top. Good idea to work some other climbs 1st of equal difficultly and style. I'll talk it over with my partner.
Thanks
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed.
You know I've often thought the same thing. I climbed Salathe in 1981. There was no-one else on the route. I can't really imagine how disappointed I'd be if I'd pulled around the roof onto the headwall to find a fixed rope down from the top and someone working those next pitches.
Edit: I hadn't seen Erik's reply when I posted this.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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What's happened is people don't know or forgot how to climb anymore.
Gotta do everything at all costs to make it "Free"
Everything goes.
Just beat it into submission by rehearsing the sh!t out of it enough until you get it wired.
The result is not "Free" anymore, but bondage.
Then broadcast "I did it" yep you sure did :-)
Whatever floats yer boat ....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Feb 24, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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Gotta go with HarryHotDog, Scott, and Werner. Your plan seems lame. Get good enough to climb it free, then do it from the ground. And if you can't free the zig-zags when you get there, use aid and finish your climb. Then come back when you've improved if you are so obsessed with doing it free. I'd respect your efforts much more as would many here.
BTW: Sandy Ledges is a WAY COOL place to spend a night, especially with a full moon...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 25, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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There are better places to practice crack climbing than on the zigs at night. Troll?
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captaincrimp
climber
Houston, TX
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Feb 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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More pros working routes on rap:
http://www.climbing.com/news/mayan-gobat-smith-frees-salath-wall-2/
I think this is the way to go:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=25157&tn=0
Seriously though, is there anyone on the forum who has actually rappelled to Big Sandy and is willing to share the logistics? I know it has been done.
I'm not trying to troll for controversy(anymore). I am actually curious.
I know Erik and he has climbed the Regular NW face twice (not free though)and it seems reasonable for him to want to check out the upper crux without being super tired from climbing the lower 3/4.
I'm pretty sure he has no desire to rap the entirety of Half Dome either.
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Docto
Mountain climber
Indianapolis, IN
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My partner and I might give it a go in July. If so, I'll make sure to put the TR up.
As for the rhetorical question about doing the climb bottom-up, it's basically a time thing. We're mostly there to do the single-rope drop off the top of Mescalito--which is a repeat of a trip we did in 2010. It calls for a pretty strict schedule as we have to have people in the right places so some Nose-in-a-day doesn't think they can ATC their way down our rope. Wouldn't say that if I wasn't there when the guy asked last time we were there. I'm pretty sure he was serious...
That, and it's fun as all getout. I've been doing it in between other climbs and for fun for about 20 years. Different level of technical skill--very much like a multidrop pull-down through trip in a cave, or a retreat off a mountain. Mostly steeper, though.
-Dean
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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