Half dome rap

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Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 21, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Does anybody know if a 60 meter rope will reach the thank god ledge if you rap in from the visor?
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
Oh great googliemooglie another rapping epic waiting to happen LOL




YER Gunna....



JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
Yes, someone knows . . . but not me. I never tried to measure the distance from Thank God Ledge to the top of the Visor, but it never seemed all that far away. Still, unless you're planning on jugging back up, I'd take more than one rope.

John
ec

climber
ca
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
'thought you had a new song...
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
We're bringing 2 ropes (1 70 and 1 60). The 60 is thicker so we wanted to use that for the rap and 70 to work the zig zags. We're just not 100% it will reach the ledge.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 21, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
You're planning to rappel the mighty Half Dome? There's another thread around here somewhere about rappelling El Cap.
bigwall shitter

Social climber
the wild west
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
tourons will dismantle your anchor so that when you try and jug out you'll die fer sure.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
...(1 70 and 1 60)...

That's sounding bad from the get go...
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
work the zig zags? WTF Can't you just climb up them and call it good?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
While youre at it, rap in and top rope the last pitch of Southern Belle.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
My guess it's close enough.

One way to find out.

Ask Werner

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=444970
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
No pre-rehearsal! You got this thing. :)
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Don't rap in from the visor, that's st00pid! Tourons will have at your anchor.

Downclimb the 4th class blocks to the top of the last technical pitch and rap from there. Then "yes" a 60m will work. Leave a fixed rope or that French team that passes you will surely take off with your gear. Even with the fixed rope you have a 50/50 chance.
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
A 60 and 70 meter rope should work if you know what you're doing.

Do you know what you're doing?

I'm not going to explain how, and if you don't know how don't bother.

One other problem is it's not a simple straight forward rap to big sandy ledge.

You have to do some traversing.

By far the easiest way is using a 500 plus rope from the top with straight shot to big sandy.

Whatever ... but if you fuk up either way or any way and need to be rescued you'll be out of $1000 or more immediately.

ec

climber
ca
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Out of pocket, on the spot!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
is it common to rap in to work the zig zags on HD? Seems like a major pain in the ass... might even be easier to just do the regular NWF french free to get there, lol. At least you get more rock climbing in! :D
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Werner, I like that response much better then "It's piss easy, anyone can do it" for sure.

Two different length ropes makes me nervous.

It's 1000 or more for a tech rescue, and 900 if you just get a litter ride from the base of El Cap - watch out, they are serious about those fines. Have to agree that it sounds like a big pain in the wazoo to me.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
500 plus rope

better hire this dude


But it'll cost you... like seven dollars.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
ground floor on a RAP thread f yeah!!11!!
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
OP do you mind if I ask why you want to do this? There's so much else to climb...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
its like DeJaVu,,,all over again...
Some Random Guy

climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
Feb 21, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
trip report please...
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
Why do you want to rap?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Erik has a brother from a different mother named, Googlymoogly.

Ask your Brother, Erik, He can give you some pointers on rapping.

:)

As mentioned in previous posts; Do it from the bottom.
It's way more FUN, and safer.

If you do decide to rap, make sure you have everything you need to
get yourself out of a mess you might create.
Some Random Guy

climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
u might wanna read this first

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1886785/Rappelling-El-Capitan
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
I'd consider rapping the slabs just east of The Visor where the Regular Route and Direct finish, and then reversing the Thank God Ledge traverse to the top of the Zig Zags.


You are planning ahead, I assume, and not going up there til the cables are up, Right?

Never know with kids these days.....
Googlymoogly

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Werner said:
Whatever ... but if you fuk up either way or any way and need to be rescued you'll be out of $1000 or more immediately.

Is it me or does this sound like someone else talking? Maybe the LEO? I wonder if I tried to fight my violation if Werner's opinion that my partner screwed up would hold or if the LEO and others would "convince" him to change his tune.

But yeah, read the "Rappelling El Capitan" thread. If your partner decides they would prefer a full blown rescue to simply ascending a rope, you might be hosed too.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
I agree with Kevin (warbler) that if I were rapping, I'd start on the slabs north of the Visor. If you're working the Zig-Zags, though, will a 70m rope suffice? The Zig-Zags start at Big Sandy, which is more tham one 70m rope would reach from Thank God Ledge, if I remember rightly (which, at my age, is unlikely).

John
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Feb 22, 2013 - 12:44am PT
The Zig-Zags alone are more like 85-90 meters and there is a pitch above them (or two traversing ones to be precise), so altogether 110-120 meters from the top maybe? So to be clear, one rope is definitely not enough. But it has already been said above..
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
Screw that....Im rappin' that thing from top to bottom. Thinking of chartering a covert heli to take me to the top. How are the snow conditions? Can I ski the death slabs?

EDIT: If anyone hears someone yelling Googly Mooogly, that is my safe word and it means I need rescue. Come get me WBraun
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
For fuk's sake you weezing wankers - he wants to preview the zig-zags for a free attempt.

I have heard 2x200' ropes end-end will make it, but you have to be swinging a bit or you'll be in space, just out from Big Sandy - but I have not done this myself.

The hard climbing in the Zig Zags is 4-5 moves. If you can't fire these on your second try, after a 3-5 min work session, after climbing up from the bottom - you're too weak to free the route, IMO. Previewing, therefore, is a waste of time and energy.

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 22, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
Hey Werner.
If this TREND of rapping Big Walls continue,
you may have to get mor SAR Volunteers.

Does anyone know which route would be the best
if I wanted to Rap from the top of Glacier Point
Apron? I gotta find out for myself what the excitement is of rapping a Big Wall!

Barbarian

climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
I'm thinking about rapping Monday Morning Slab. Should I take one helmet for the rockfall or two?
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
1 for each head
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Isn't the glassy 11D dihedral also kind of a redpoint crux?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
I'm guessing he wants to do a photoshoot.

Like the Jimmy Chin shot on the National Geo cover.


Is this going to be a fashion shoot?? Lingere?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Seems like a couple days spent climbing hard, sustained right-facing tips corners would be a better use of one's energy.
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 09:01am PT
Thanks everyone for all the feedback. My favorite was the Super Bowl shuffle. I'll make sure I have that one dialed before I go to valley!
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 24, 2013 - 09:19am PT
I suppose if you do it now it would not be interfering with ground up parties. If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed. Why don't you put in some milage on routes of similar difficulty then have a go from the ground.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Feb 24, 2013 - 09:36am PT
Why not just climb the route? It's not that hard to get up to the Zig Zags.

Seems like bad style and a way to slow everyone else down.
erik fischer

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 09:40am PT
Were definitely not going to block anyone from climbing it. If we have to we will do it at night, work the pitches and get out of the way of anyone trying to make it to the top. Good idea to work some other climbs 1st of equal difficultly and style. I'll talk it over with my partner.
Thanks
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Feb 24, 2013 - 10:10am PT
If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed.

You know I've often thought the same thing. I climbed Salathe in 1981. There was no-one else on the route. I can't really imagine how disappointed I'd be if I'd pulled around the roof onto the headwall to find a fixed rope down from the top and someone working those next pitches.

Edit: I hadn't seen Erik's reply when I posted this.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2013 - 10:34am PT
What's happened is people don't know or forgot how to climb anymore.

Gotta do everything at all costs to make it "Free"

Everything goes.

Just beat it into submission by rehearsing the sh!t out of it enough until you get it wired.

The result is not "Free" anymore, but bondage.

Then broadcast "I did it" yep you sure did :-)

Whatever floats yer boat ....
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Feb 24, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
Gotta go with HarryHotDog, Scott, and Werner. Your plan seems lame. Get good enough to climb it free, then do it from the ground. And if you can't free the zig-zags when you get there, use aid and finish your climb. Then come back when you've improved if you are so obsessed with doing it free. I'd respect your efforts much more as would many here.

BTW: Sandy Ledges is a WAY COOL place to spend a night, especially with a full moon...
captaincrimp

climber
Houston, TX
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
I guess Caldwell is just too influential

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/working-of-the-first-free-ascent-of-Mescalito/t140n.html
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 25, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
There are better places to practice crack climbing than on the zigs at night. Troll?
captaincrimp

climber
Houston, TX
Feb 28, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
More pros working routes on rap:
http://www.climbing.com/news/mayan-gobat-smith-frees-salath-wall-2/

I think this is the way to go:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=25157&tn=0

Seriously though, is there anyone on the forum who has actually rappelled to Big Sandy and is willing to share the logistics? I know it has been done.

I'm not trying to troll for controversy(anymore). I am actually curious.

I know Erik and he has climbed the Regular NW face twice (not free though)and it seems reasonable for him to want to check out the upper crux without being super tired from climbing the lower 3/4.

I'm pretty sure he has no desire to rap the entirety of Half Dome either.


Docto

Mountain climber
Indianapolis, IN
Apr 8, 2013 - 08:07am PT
My partner and I might give it a go in July. If so, I'll make sure to put the TR up.

As for the rhetorical question about doing the climb bottom-up, it's basically a time thing. We're mostly there to do the single-rope drop off the top of Mescalito--which is a repeat of a trip we did in 2010. It calls for a pretty strict schedule as we have to have people in the right places so some Nose-in-a-day doesn't think they can ATC their way down our rope. Wouldn't say that if I wasn't there when the guy asked last time we were there. I'm pretty sure he was serious...

That, and it's fun as all getout. I've been doing it in between other climbs and for fun for about 20 years. Different level of technical skill--very much like a multidrop pull-down through trip in a cave, or a retreat off a mountain. Mostly steeper, though.

-Dean


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