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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Feb 24, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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Gotta go with HarryHotDog, Scott, and Werner. Your plan seems lame. Get good enough to climb it free, then do it from the ground. And if you can't free the zig-zags when you get there, use aid and finish your climb. Then come back when you've improved if you are so obsessed with doing it free. I'd respect your efforts much more as would many here.
BTW: Sandy Ledges is a WAY COOL place to spend a night, especially with a full moon...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 25, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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There are better places to practice crack climbing than on the zigs at night. Troll?
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captaincrimp
climber
Houston, TX
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Feb 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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More pros working routes on rap:
http://www.climbing.com/news/mayan-gobat-smith-frees-salath-wall-2/
I think this is the way to go:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=25157&tn=0
Seriously though, is there anyone on the forum who has actually rappelled to Big Sandy and is willing to share the logistics? I know it has been done.
I'm not trying to troll for controversy(anymore). I am actually curious.
I know Erik and he has climbed the Regular NW face twice (not free though)and it seems reasonable for him to want to check out the upper crux without being super tired from climbing the lower 3/4.
I'm pretty sure he has no desire to rap the entirety of Half Dome either.
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Docto
Mountain climber
Indianapolis, IN
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My partner and I might give it a go in July. If so, I'll make sure to put the TR up.
As for the rhetorical question about doing the climb bottom-up, it's basically a time thing. We're mostly there to do the single-rope drop off the top of Mescalito--which is a repeat of a trip we did in 2010. It calls for a pretty strict schedule as we have to have people in the right places so some Nose-in-a-day doesn't think they can ATC their way down our rope. Wouldn't say that if I wasn't there when the guy asked last time we were there. I'm pretty sure he was serious...
That, and it's fun as all getout. I've been doing it in between other climbs and for fun for about 20 years. Different level of technical skill--very much like a multidrop pull-down through trip in a cave, or a retreat off a mountain. Mostly steeper, though.
-Dean
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