Half dome rap

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Messages 41 - 49 of total 49 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
Why not just climb the route? It's not that hard to get up to the Zig Zags.

Seems like bad style and a way to slow everyone else down.
erik fischer

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Were definitely not going to block anyone from climbing it. If we have to we will do it at night, work the pitches and get out of the way of anyone trying to make it to the top. Good idea to work some other climbs 1st of equal difficultly and style. I'll talk it over with my partner.
Thanks
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Feb 24, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
If I was coming from the ground and came upon a party working the zig zags from the top I would not be impressed.

You know I've often thought the same thing. I climbed Salathe in 1981. There was no-one else on the route. I can't really imagine how disappointed I'd be if I'd pulled around the roof onto the headwall to find a fixed rope down from the top and someone working those next pitches.

Edit: I hadn't seen Erik's reply when I posted this.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
What's happened is people don't know or forgot how to climb anymore.

Gotta do everything at all costs to make it "Free"

Everything goes.

Just beat it into submission by rehearsing the sh!t out of it enough until you get it wired.

The result is not "Free" anymore, but bondage.

Then broadcast "I did it" yep you sure did :-)

Whatever floats yer boat ....
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Feb 24, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Gotta go with HarryHotDog, Scott, and Werner. Your plan seems lame. Get good enough to climb it free, then do it from the ground. And if you can't free the zig-zags when you get there, use aid and finish your climb. Then come back when you've improved if you are so obsessed with doing it free. I'd respect your efforts much more as would many here.

BTW: Sandy Ledges is a WAY COOL place to spend a night, especially with a full moon...
captaincrimp

climber
Houston, TX
Feb 25, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
I guess Caldwell is just too influential

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/working-of-the-first-free-ascent-of-Mescalito/t140n.html
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 25, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
There are better places to practice crack climbing than on the zigs at night. Troll?
captaincrimp

climber
Houston, TX
Feb 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
More pros working routes on rap:
http://www.climbing.com/news/mayan-gobat-smith-frees-salath-wall-2/

I think this is the way to go:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=25157&tn=0

Seriously though, is there anyone on the forum who has actually rappelled to Big Sandy and is willing to share the logistics? I know it has been done.

I'm not trying to troll for controversy(anymore). I am actually curious.

I know Erik and he has climbed the Regular NW face twice (not free though)and it seems reasonable for him to want to check out the upper crux without being super tired from climbing the lower 3/4.

I'm pretty sure he has no desire to rap the entirety of Half Dome either.


Docto

Mountain climber
Indianapolis, IN
Apr 8, 2013 - 11:07am PT
My partner and I might give it a go in July. If so, I'll make sure to put the TR up.

As for the rhetorical question about doing the climb bottom-up, it's basically a time thing. We're mostly there to do the single-rope drop off the top of Mescalito--which is a repeat of a trip we did in 2010. It calls for a pretty strict schedule as we have to have people in the right places so some Nose-in-a-day doesn't think they can ATC their way down our rope. Wouldn't say that if I wasn't there when the guy asked last time we were there. I'm pretty sure he was serious...

That, and it's fun as all getout. I've been doing it in between other climbs and for fun for about 20 years. Different level of technical skill--very much like a multidrop pull-down through trip in a cave, or a retreat off a mountain. Mostly steeper, though.

-Dean


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