SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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Have a blast! Love your tick list. Sounds like every hot bar on the strip!
Susan
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weezy
climber
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Feb 11, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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my advice is to get a late-exit pass even if you're just cragging. might as well use up all the winter sun and not worry about getting locked in. i threw my back out at the brass wall one day and it took forever for me to walk out. we barely missed lock-down and talked the ranger into letting us go since i was all gimped up. it's nice to just be able to climb as long as you want and not worry about having to get back before six. i haven't been there in almost ten years, though so maybe things have changed.
vvv edit: yes, definitely do triassic sands. excellent exposure, not as hard as it looks from below. do wholesome fullback afterwards if you got some juice left
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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If you go to Black Velvet Canyon, you absolutely must do Triassic Sands. Does a hand crack on an arete sound fun, or what !?!?
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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If you go to Black Velvet Canyon, you absolutely must do Triassic Sands. Does a hand crack on an arete sound fun, or what !?!?
^^^ THIS!!!!!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Yer gonna......
Have a blast!
If you have some spare time, shoot me a message. We always like to meet Taco folks when they are in town!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 11, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Da Lat for pho and other Vietnamese and Mint Bistro for Indian. My favorite ethnic places down there.
Dogfather, thanks for the photos of Brownstone. i haven't made it out there yet and there's a few things there on my hit list. Plus it's sunny.
Big Mike a lot of the stuff people are recommending is in the shade all day. For right now? Could be OK or could be frigid.
My recommendation might be to get up really early, do the classics on the sunny side in your grade range but then do another 1-2 routes in the area and triple your pitch count for the day.
E.G. I personally love Birdland, but then I'd also go over and do Dark Shadows or go to the right and do topless twins, mushroom people and bush pilots.
Olive Oil is great, but then why not do Geronimo the same day? If there's no one there you would run up it. It's the time on the loop road and the hike in that eats it up. once you get somewhere, plan to maximize the climb to hike ratio.
Same with something like Frogland. There's stuff both to the right and the left that you can do to add mileage to your day.
Yeah, the Fox is great but it's one pitch. There are a ton of other 1 pitch routes less than 10 minutes away you can do in the same day if you spend a day in Calico basin.
I'm a bit jealous; wish I could get down there.
Phyl
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 11, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Before you throw yourself into the jaws of doom on those Red Rocks moderates, hit the Bonjour Bakery for coffee and pastries. I still have trouble believing that this place exists in Las Vegas, but it does, and not taking advantage of it is a mortal sin. Seriously. It may not be the best patisserie in the world, but it's better than almost anything in the US.
In a shopping plaza on the NE corner of Rainbow and Flamingo.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Taking notes, thanks people. The views of all the canyons from the plane today showed snow on all the ledges to half height on the northern aspects. Looking just as cold here in LV, as Squamish was last weekend
Forecast is looking great though.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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Epinephrine to the top is probably my favorite climb I have done. May be a little chilly this time of year I suppose, but 2,000 feet of 5.7 to 5.9, what is not to like.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Save up and splurge on the buffet at the Belogio if you get a chance. It was worth it last time I was there. It was like $30 but that was cheaper tham a lot of restaurants on the strip and they have almost anything you could want.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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If you're looking for sunny, warm, and moderate climbing with an easy (real easy) approach check out Moderate Mecca. The picture I posted at the top of this thread was taken there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Belagio eh? Heard its pretty fancy! Sounds interesting.
Ya valentine's day looks rad!! Good call Ghost!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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Second on ragged edges. I hear there are some good 5.10 right next door.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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Of course no one on this thread has touched on the most important thing of all... Where do you get a good beer after a day of climbing in Red Rocks?
In the past, the answer was simple: you don't. If you wanted a good beer, you had to wait until you got home. But things have changed, and not only is good beer available, it is available almost within spitting distance of the park gate. The Red Rock Casino is a relatively new place way out at the west end of Charleston. About five minutes from the park entrance. And the pub actually has real beer. Or it did a couple of years ago. Maybe not as good as you can get in San Diego, SF, Portland, or Seattle, but not bad.
I'll be checking it out again myself in a few weeks because I am forced by my horrible job to go to Las Vegas and stay at the Red Rock Casino on my company's dime. Yeah, I know, it sucks, but I'll man up and do it.
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Bruce Kay
Gym climber
BC
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Feb 11, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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Might be tough to get to black velvet with the rental.
Are you kidding??? Thats half the fun. You just need the proper off roadster:
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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Solar Slab is always a fun mellow romp. Pair it with Johnny Vegas and you'll have a fun day of easy climbing. Bring your headlamps.
Others recommending Eagle Dance...that has been on my list for a while, looks like a blast.
Great Red Book gets PM sun so if you go follow the sun in Calico for a morning (The Fox faces NE but if it is warm enough, go for it), otherwise Classic Corner of Calico faces East and is a good morning climb. Stellar movement. Head from there to Valentines Day and then hit the Great Red Book and you will have had one of the better days of 5.8 that Red Rock has to offer. Getting cornered! All of the routes are in awesome corners.
The Brass Wall in Pine Creek is another fun spot. Topless Twins is a classic, Mushroom People is very good, the other little 10a/9+ thing was alright. There is a fun .11b TR (or VERY bold lead) to the right of that climb called "Fungus Folks" which is stellar. Earlier in the day you can climb Doin' the Good Drive and/or Straight Shooter for some more 5-star 5.9 terrain.
Enjoy!!!! I'm getting fired up to move back down at the end of the month, now the crux of it all - finding a place to rent!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Isn't Johnny Vegas a full rope length 5.9 no pro situation? We are well equipped in the headlamp department but the rental car is a Chevy Aero with 2.5 inches ground clearance. I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet.
Solar slab would be a good adventure.
Apparently it rained here yesterday...
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socialclimber
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:54am PT
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I'll be there Friday to Sunday!
Charles
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Feb 12, 2013 - 07:08am PT
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Enjoy Vegas today and allow things to dry out. Johnny Vegas is 5.7, not 5.9
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