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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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If you're looking for sunny, warm, and moderate climbing with an easy (real easy) approach check out Moderate Mecca. The picture I posted at the top of this thread was taken there.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:23am PT
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Belagio eh? Heard its pretty fancy! Sounds interesting.
Ya valentine's day looks rad!! Good call Ghost!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Second on ragged edges. I hear there are some good 5.10 right next door.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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Of course no one on this thread has touched on the most important thing of all... Where do you get a good beer after a day of climbing in Red Rocks?
In the past, the answer was simple: you don't. If you wanted a good beer, you had to wait until you got home. But things have changed, and not only is good beer available, it is available almost within spitting distance of the park gate. The Red Rock Casino is a relatively new place way out at the west end of Charleston. About five minutes from the park entrance. And the pub actually has real beer. Or it did a couple of years ago. Maybe not as good as you can get in San Diego, SF, Portland, or Seattle, but not bad.
I'll be checking it out again myself in a few weeks because I am forced by my horrible job to go to Las Vegas and stay at the Red Rock Casino on my company's dime. Yeah, I know, it sucks, but I'll man up and do it.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 12, 2013 - 03:24am PT
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Isn't Johnny Vegas a full rope length 5.9 no pro situation? We are well equipped in the headlamp department but the rental car is a Chevy Aero with 2.5 inches ground clearance. I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet.
Solar slab would be a good adventure.
Apparently it rained here yesterday...
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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bmacd the hendron book says for the 3rd pitch of jonny vegas "straightforward climbing (5.5) leads up the arete with no pro until you are level with the roof on the left"
I got at least 3 decent pieces in over that length: a very nice pair of nuts set in opposition in a horizontal about 12 feet off the belay, a lowe ball somewhere, and a small cam somewhere. And it really was completely straightforward. It's a fun and lovely route, but you know what? The solar slab gully at 5.3 was actually a lot of fun and it gets you up high too.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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I use the gully quite a bit to introduce people to multi pitch. It can be a bit of a slog, and rope drag is an issue especially on the first pitch. If you guys are interested in giving it a go, we can run up it Saturday or Sunday.
Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!
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Derek
climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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It's mentioned once up thread, but I'll put in another plug for Frigidair Buttress. It's a superb oldschool-style meat and potatos crack climbing romp. Don't be put off by the "wide" pitch. There are good jams in the back, and ample face holds after the first few feet. Also don't sweat the descent. Despite some reports to the contrary, it's not especially ticky by RR standards, though it might be hard to sort out in the dark, I suppose. Simply a great route.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...
Have a good climb you guys. I'll be creepin on your live TR when I can.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.
Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple.
You may not be so sure about that after tonight.
Waddya trying to say there tough guy?? ;)
We are on our way to the crags now. Decided on a mellow morning to let things warm up and dry out a bit.
Edit Charles we would love to meet up this weekend!!
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Feb 12, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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Johnny Vegas has a sweet 5.9 variation.
The crux is a layback around the corner to eventually find a bolt to clip.
Red Zinger is right next door
Also in the area is the fun Buelah's Book
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.
My plan for the whole rest of this week is bolt clipping in the sun. But, I live 10 minutes away, and I have the luxury of going out whenever I want.
Brownstone wall is a good choice, with a hell of a nice view, and a pretty good hike. We did Nightcrawler not long ago (I took a 35 foot whip off the 4th pitch) and the quality of the rock up there is impeccable.
FWIW, last week there was NO ONE on Crimson, Johnny Vegas (we did it in about 30 minutes as a simul), Solar Slab, etc. Everywhere seemed deserted for some reason.
^^^ Red Zinger is pretty amazing. Indian Creek style all the way. The sun only hits the route itself for about 30 minutes around 3pm right now, IIRC.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 12, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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Have a blast! Haven't been to Red Rocks for a few years, but loved every minute of it. Met Charlie Fowler there, and he told me he thought it might be the best overall climbing area in the world (a comment he elaborated on, at length). It's a pretty sweet place.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Glad you made it down Bmacd and Bmike, we are all down and settled in Henderson. All you regular
s have been really helpful with route information. I'm looking for some easy crags that are suitable for kids. Cliffs that get some sun and are less than a mile from the car, any ideas? Thanks in advance. Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Panty wall 5.5/5.6/a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8.
15 minute approach by RR standards.
Another good alternative is White Slab at Calico Hills. TR 5.6/5.8. Very close to the parking lot for the days when you or the gang have just had enough. A nice area to hike with the kids, not much elevation loss or gain and some cool scenery, probably covered with top ropes on weekends.
Post pics of your future Rock stars.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful.
Thanks! Looks fun!
Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...
Sick dude! How are the temps? Pics look warm!!
Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.
I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!
COOOOL!!!! Thanks Dwain! Ill go check him out!
Bruce is all about multi so it might not happen.. Maybe if I tire him out real good, but it might be tough to leave the luxury we are paying for!
thedogfather- you're killing it with the pics!! Thanks! Looks rad. Something around that zone might be the plan tomorrow.
You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.
Your not kidding bbj!! It was awesome in the sun today! Perfect temps!
It's a pretty sweet place.
Heck ya it is Mooser!!! So gorgeous and the rock is so cool!
We went out Calico today to hit up MM. I really wanted to get on Valentines day!
The gruelling approach
Calico Basin
Bad Soup 5.9? Really??
Very cool landscapes! That boulder looks sweet!
This one looks really fun!!
Where the heck are we??
The Mecca of Moderates
Once we got our bearings Bmacd jumped on Abbey Road for a nice warm up. He sent it in style. I got him to toprope me on Fleet Street after which had a couple moves that seemed a bit harder than that! Would be a bold lead.
Bruce racking up.
Beautiful rock!
Found this on the trail
Then we went over to valentines day and I sent that. Took way too much big gear (#3 friend up to #3 Camalot and didn't place any of it.
Valentines day 5.8+
I took a couple pics of Bruce with his camera so maybe I can get him to post some up later if any turned out.
I toproped Ace of Hearts after and it was rad! I had to pull the Ondra screaming technique out of the bag to get through the crux. Bruce asked me "what's going on up there?" ;) I got up it clean tho which was sweet. That would be a *really* bold lead!!!
Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!
Yeah! Abbey Road that we did today would be perfect for the kids. Not much for toproping options tho if you aren't leading with them.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Cool Lurky!!! Thanks for the sick pics!
Rolf- thanks for the invite!!
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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bjj and all other locals, it would be great to meet you folks. So many choices for climbs, but very cold in the shade right now....
My local LV number is 702 601 1751. Don't be shy!
Difficult to read all this great information posted to the thread as we have only our smart phones.
Thanks everyone for the input.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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Cool WML!!!!!
Bruce sent me one of the keepers from valentines day
We met up with Travis and Christina tonight which was very nice! They are really cool people!
Thanks for coming out guys! You shoulda told us you were starving, I woulda got some appies out!
They posed for this nice shot
Bmacd also got a group shot!
Bruce MacDonald photo
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