Vegas baby! Vegas!

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bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:10am PT
Taking notes, thanks people. The views of all the canyons from the plane today showed snow on all the ledges to half height on the northern aspects. Looking just as cold here in LV, as Squamish was last weekend

Forecast is looking great though.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:14am PT
Epinephrine to the top is probably my favorite climb I have done. May be a little chilly this time of year I suppose, but 2,000 feet of 5.7 to 5.9, what is not to like.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:18am PT
Justin knows how I roll!!


my advice is to get a late-exit pass even if you're just cragging. might as well use up all the winter sun and not worry about getting locked in

Great call!! Thanks!

Jim, sounds great! Triassic sounds cool. Might be tough to get to black velvet with the rental. Maybe if cosmic comes home we can bribe him with a tank of gas?? Hope we get a chance to meet up.

Bruce is talking to Vegasclimber right now as I type, so hopefully we'll hook up with him too.


I took a couple pics on the plane....

Anyone recognize this Washington peak?



A sea of clouds


Pyramid Lake




No idea. Guesses?




Vegas baby!


After a bit of buffoonery with the rental car, Bmacd came and saved my dumbass. We got jacked because of it too. Doh! (I will elaborate later when appropriate.)

After a few errands we made it to our oasis for the next 9 days.



Glad we didn't make it out climbing, VC just told us it rained yesterday!

Bruce says he saw snow on most of the north facing ledges, like phylp said, we may have to focus on sunny stuff for the next couple days. Any south or east facing ideas for us??
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Save up and splurge on the buffet at the Belogio if you get a chance. It was worth it last time I was there. It was like $30 but that was cheaper tham a lot of restaurants on the strip and they have almost anything you could want.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:21am PT
If you're looking for sunny, warm, and moderate climbing with an easy (real easy) approach check out Moderate Mecca. The picture I posted at the top of this thread was taken there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Belagio eh? Heard its pretty fancy! Sounds interesting.

Ya valentine's day looks rad!! Good call Ghost!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Second on ragged edges. I hear there are some good 5.10 right next door.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Of course no one on this thread has touched on the most important thing of all... Where do you get a good beer after a day of climbing in Red Rocks?

In the past, the answer was simple: you don't. If you wanted a good beer, you had to wait until you got home. But things have changed, and not only is good beer available, it is available almost within spitting distance of the park gate. The Red Rock Casino is a relatively new place way out at the west end of Charleston. About five minutes from the park entrance. And the pub actually has real beer. Or it did a couple of years ago. Maybe not as good as you can get in San Diego, SF, Portland, or Seattle, but not bad.

I'll be checking it out again myself in a few weeks because I am forced by my horrible job to go to Las Vegas and stay at the Red Rock Casino on my company's dime. Yeah, I know, it sucks, but I'll man up and do it.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2013 - 03:24am PT
Isn't Johnny Vegas a full rope length 5.9 no pro situation? We are well equipped in the headlamp department but the rental car is a Chevy Aero with 2.5 inches ground clearance. I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet.

Solar slab would be a good adventure.

Apparently it rained here yesterday...
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:54am PT
I'll be there Friday to Sunday!

Charles
dave

climber
Earth
Feb 12, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful. with 2 ropes you can rap and you'll be rapping the bottom section of solar slab so you can see what you didn't miss out on, plus Beulahs will be in the sun the whole time while on solar slab you'll be stuffed way back in a chimney system till you reach the glorious ledge half way up. Beulahs is to the left and has a great 2nd. pitch, take a #4 camalot.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
" I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet."






Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.

:(
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
bmacd the hendron book says for the 3rd pitch of jonny vegas "straightforward climbing (5.5) leads up the arete with no pro until you are level with the roof on the left"

I got at least 3 decent pieces in over that length: a very nice pair of nuts set in opposition in a horizontal about 12 feet off the belay, a lowe ball somewhere, and a small cam somewhere. And it really was completely straightforward. It's a fun and lovely route, but you know what? The solar slab gully at 5.3 was actually a lot of fun and it gets you up high too.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
I use the gully quite a bit to introduce people to multi pitch. It can be a bit of a slog, and rope drag is an issue especially on the first pitch. If you guys are interested in giving it a go, we can run up it Saturday or Sunday.

Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!
Derek

climber
Feb 12, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
It's mentioned once up thread, but I'll put in another plug for Frigidair Buttress. It's a superb oldschool-style meat and potatos crack climbing romp. Don't be put off by the "wide" pitch. There are good jams in the back, and ample face holds after the first few feet. Also don't sweat the descent. Despite some reports to the contrary, it's not especially ticky by RR standards, though it might be hard to sort out in the dark, I suppose. Simply a great route.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...

Have a good climb you guys. I'll be creepin on your live TR when I can.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.

Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple.




You may not be so sure about that after tonight.


Waddya trying to say there tough guy?? ;)

We are on our way to the crags now. Decided on a mellow morning to let things warm up and dry out a bit.

Edit Charles we would love to meet up this weekend!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
"Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple."




That would be GREAT, Big Mike!
There is a LOT of good climbing here in Apple Valley.
My cell is: 760-780-8433

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Feb 12, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
Johnny Vegas has a sweet 5.9 variation.
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
Credit: thedogfather
The crux is a layback around the corner to eventually find a bolt to clip.
Might not want to fall here :&#41;
Might not want to fall here :)
Credit: thedogfather
Red Zinger is right next door
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
Credit: thedogfather

Also in the area is the fun Buelah's Book
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

My plan for the whole rest of this week is bolt clipping in the sun. But, I live 10 minutes away, and I have the luxury of going out whenever I want.

Brownstone wall is a good choice, with a hell of a nice view, and a pretty good hike. We did Nightcrawler not long ago (I took a 35 foot whip off the 4th pitch) and the quality of the rock up there is impeccable.

FWIW, last week there was NO ONE on Crimson, Johnny Vegas (we did it in about 30 minutes as a simul), Solar Slab, etc. Everywhere seemed deserted for some reason.

^^^ Red Zinger is pretty amazing. Indian Creek style all the way. The sun only hits the route itself for about 30 minutes around 3pm right now, IIRC.

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