Vegas baby! Vegas!

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Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
"Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple."




That would be GREAT, Big Mike!
There is a LOT of good climbing here in Apple Valley.
My cell is: 760-780-8433

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Feb 12, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
Johnny Vegas has a sweet 5.9 variation.
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
Credit: thedogfather
The crux is a layback around the corner to eventually find a bolt to clip.
Might not want to fall here :&#41;
Might not want to fall here :)
Credit: thedogfather
Red Zinger is right next door
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
Credit: thedogfather

Also in the area is the fun Buelah's Book
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

My plan for the whole rest of this week is bolt clipping in the sun. But, I live 10 minutes away, and I have the luxury of going out whenever I want.

Brownstone wall is a good choice, with a hell of a nice view, and a pretty good hike. We did Nightcrawler not long ago (I took a 35 foot whip off the 4th pitch) and the quality of the rock up there is impeccable.

FWIW, last week there was NO ONE on Crimson, Johnny Vegas (we did it in about 30 minutes as a simul), Solar Slab, etc. Everywhere seemed deserted for some reason.

^^^ Red Zinger is pretty amazing. Indian Creek style all the way. The sun only hits the route itself for about 30 minutes around 3pm right now, IIRC.

mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 12, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
Have a blast! Haven't been to Red Rocks for a few years, but loved every minute of it. Met Charlie Fowler there, and he told me he thought it might be the best overall climbing area in the world (a comment he elaborated on, at length). It's a pretty sweet place.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 12, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
Glad you made it down Bmacd and Bmike, we are all down and settled in Henderson. All you regular
s have been really helpful with route information. I'm looking for some easy crags that are suitable for kids. Cliffs that get some sun and are less than a mile from the car, any ideas? Thanks in advance. Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
Panty wall 5.5/5.6/a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8.
15 minute approach by RR standards.

Another good alternative is White Slab at Calico Hills. TR 5.6/5.8. Very close to the parking lot for the days when you or the gang have just had enough. A nice area to hike with the kids, not much elevation loss or gain and some cool scenery, probably covered with top ropes on weekends.

Post pics of your future Rock stars.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful.

Thanks! Looks fun!

Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...

Sick dude! How are the temps? Pics look warm!!

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

COOOOL!!!! Thanks Dwain! Ill go check him out!

Bruce is all about multi so it might not happen.. Maybe if I tire him out real good, but it might be tough to leave the luxury we are paying for!

thedogfather- you're killing it with the pics!! Thanks! Looks rad. Something around that zone might be the plan tomorrow.

You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

Your not kidding bbj!! It was awesome in the sun today! Perfect temps!

It's a pretty sweet place.

Heck ya it is Mooser!!! So gorgeous and the rock is so cool!


We went out Calico today to hit up MM. I really wanted to get on Valentines day!


The gruelling approach






Calico Basin






Bad Soup 5.9? Really??






Very cool landscapes! That boulder looks sweet!





This one looks really fun!!




Where the heck are we??






The Mecca of Moderates



Once we got our bearings Bmacd jumped on Abbey Road for a nice warm up. He sent it in style. I got him to toprope me on Fleet Street after which had a couple moves that seemed a bit harder than that! Would be a bold lead.


Bruce racking up.




Beautiful rock!




Found this on the trail


Then we went over to valentines day and I sent that. Took way too much big gear (#3 friend up to #3 Camalot and didn't place any of it.


Valentines day 5.8+



I took a couple pics of Bruce with his camera so maybe I can get him to post some up later if any turned out.

I toproped Ace of Hearts after and it was rad! I had to pull the Ondra screaming technique out of the bag to get through the crux. Bruce asked me "what's going on up there?" ;) I got up it clean tho which was sweet. That would be a *really* bold lead!!!


Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!

Yeah! Abbey Road that we did today would be perfect for the kids. Not much for toproping options tho if you aren't leading with them.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
Cool Lurky!!! Thanks for the sick pics!

Rolf- thanks for the invite!!
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
The Warrior
The Warrior
Credit: Gobi
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
bjj and all other locals, it would be great to meet you folks. So many choices for climbs, but very cold in the shade right now....

My local LV number is 702 601 1751. Don't be shy!

Difficult to read all this great information posted to the thread as we have only our smart phones.

Thanks everyone for the input.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:55am PT
Cool WML!!!!!

Bruce sent me one of the keepers from valentines day




We met up with Travis and Christina tonight which was very nice! They are really cool people!
Thanks for coming out guys! You shoulda told us you were starving, I woulda got some appies out!

They posed for this nice shot



Bmacd also got a group shot!

Bruce MacDonald photo
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 13, 2013 - 02:56am PT
Had a good time hanging out with Bruce and Mike tonight!

The better half and I had to go to a SAR team meeting, so we didn't get over there till about 9. Hence why I look like a pumpkin in the shots :-| Had time to BS for a while and give them some beta for climbing tomorrow - looks like they will go for Cat in the Hat with the Cookie Monster variation.

We are going to try and get out there with them on Saturday. Mike is one seriously TALL dude!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Thanks for the name reminder Wml! Bruce wanted to do that one but couldn't remember the exact name. We are headed over there now!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 13, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
What's in the Altoids tin? Ha!
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 13, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
What's in the Altoids tin? Ha!


Er....actually, Altoids. Sorry to wreck your perception and all. :p
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 13, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Simply a joke, take no offense.

Altoids tins are notorious for multiple uses.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Altoids tins are notorious for multiple uses.

They are quite handy! I might have to pick one up myself. ;)

wml- coming up!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
Big Mike, dontchya feel just a little guilty climbing in those horrid conditions?
Plus I know damn well there's no buffets even remotely close in Squamland.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 13, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Mike and Bruce, I love your style. Keeping it real. Peace out!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 12:15am PT

Big Mike, dontchya feel just a little guilty climbing in those horrid conditions?
Plus I know damn well there's no buffets even remotely close in Squamland.

Ya.. It's pretty bad ;) haven't seen a buffet yet, or even been near the strip! ;) Soon enough I'm sure.

Mike and Bruce, I love your style. Keeping it real. Peace out!

Wayno!! Relic is planning an Easter trip to Leavenworth so we will be kidnapping you for that one!! Make sure you have the time off!!

We got up at 6:30 this morning but we were both still bagged. Neither of us managed to get enough sleep and Bruce had the sinus migraine from hell, so I told him I didn't mind if we got some more sleep. He seemed pretty stoked at that idea so we snoozed a bit. It is supposed to be a vacation after all.

We woke up late and took care of some errands before we headed out to the crag. We didn't get to the second pullout till about 2:15 and the gates are closed at five these days so we were cutting it close.


Second pullout


We decided to head up to The Great Red Book 5.8 thanks to wml's excellent reminder.

Amazing geology here..




Bruce heading up the gully.




These gullies are amazing. Such cool formations!




A cool little cacti? I spotted.


I went a bit high up the gully before trying to cross over, and we ended up having to backtrack a little. Being that we were short on time Bruce wasn't super stoked.. :) oops.


The Great Red Book. 2p 5.8



We got to the base and I was still feeling pretty rested so I racked up for the first pitch. It was really fun and took great gear, even if it was a bit spacey. 5.7 can be pretty serious around here, and I certainly wouldn't want to fall on that pitch! It wouldn't be very pretty as Vegasclimber illustrated quite well last night with his tuna an chips story. (See TR)


Bruce on p1 (5.7)



Pulling the last couple moves on p1



Bruce followed p1 seamlessly and we swapped over at the belay. I thought he did quite well with the second pitch, especially with his sinus deal, but he wasn't super happy with it. He got up it clean tho!

Bruce leading p2


P2 was rad! Some spicy face moves to start followed by a weird switch to layback corner and then a romp up the nice corner to the belay. Bmacd opted to follow the corner all the way up and set up a gear belay by the small tree at the top of the slot.

While Bruce took care of the rope, I went left to scope out the descent, and had take this snap of my shadow.


Big Mike on the summit




Bruce coiling the rope


It was 4:45 by the time we started down and we really didn't want a ticket!!


Running down the descent gully to make it back to the lot on time!


We made it. Bruce wanted to go, but I just had to get this one last shot.

Red Rocks sunset.


I think it was worth it.
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