Vegas baby! Vegas!

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dave

climber
Earth
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:43am PT
Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful. with 2 ropes you can rap and you'll be rapping the bottom section of solar slab so you can see what you didn't miss out on, plus Beulahs will be in the sun the whole time while on solar slab you'll be stuffed way back in a chimney system till you reach the glorious ledge half way up. Beulahs is to the left and has a great 2nd. pitch, take a #4 camalot.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:47am PT
Beulah's is super fun! We did it in the afternoon last February, was kinda cold. Do it early so that you don't get caught in the shade...wasn't too bad but belays were chilly.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 09:14am PT
" I thought we would charter the Cosmic mobile for the run to Black Velvet."






Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.

:(
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 09:35am PT
bmacd the hendron book says for the 3rd pitch of jonny vegas "straightforward climbing (5.5) leads up the arete with no pro until you are level with the roof on the left"

I got at least 3 decent pieces in over that length: a very nice pair of nuts set in opposition in a horizontal about 12 feet off the belay, a lowe ball somewhere, and a small cam somewhere. And it really was completely straightforward. It's a fun and lovely route, but you know what? The solar slab gully at 5.3 was actually a lot of fun and it gets you up high too.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 12, 2013 - 10:40am PT
I use the gully quite a bit to introduce people to multi pitch. It can be a bit of a slog, and rope drag is an issue especially on the first pitch. If you guys are interested in giving it a go, we can run up it Saturday or Sunday.

Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 10:52am PT
Meeting up with bmac and Mike tonight - looking forward to it!


You may not be so sure about that after tonight.
Derek

climber
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:04am PT
It's mentioned once up thread, but I'll put in another plug for Frigidair Buttress. It's a superb oldschool-style meat and potatos crack climbing romp. Don't be put off by the "wide" pitch. There are good jams in the back, and ample face holds after the first few feet. Also don't sweat the descent. Despite some reports to the contrary, it's not especially ticky by RR standards, though it might be hard to sort out in the dark, I suppose. Simply a great route.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...

Have a good climb you guys. I'll be creepin on your live TR when I can.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:21am PT
Cosmic is not going to be in town.
He went to Vegas Friday night because he missed his wife after being away for a month. He did a Window washing job, and then left Vegas yesterday
and is back working in Calif for another month.

Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple.




You may not be so sure about that after tonight.


Waddya trying to say there tough guy?? ;)

We are on our way to the crags now. Decided on a mellow morning to let things warm up and dry out a bit.

Edit Charles we would love to meet up this weekend!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 12, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
"Bummer Dwain! I was really hoping to meet you! Maybe if the weather turns sour we'll have some time for a run out to apple."




That would be GREAT, Big Mike!
There is a LOT of good climbing here in Apple Valley.
My cell is: 760-780-8433

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Feb 12, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
Johnny Vegas has a sweet 5.9 variation.
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
5.9 Variation to Johnny Vegas
Credit: thedogfather
The crux is a layback around the corner to eventually find a bolt to clip.
Might not want to fall here :&#41;
Might not want to fall here :)
Credit: thedogfather
Red Zinger is right next door
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
brassnuts sizing up Red Zinger
Credit: thedogfather

Also in the area is the fun Buelah's Book
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

My plan for the whole rest of this week is bolt clipping in the sun. But, I live 10 minutes away, and I have the luxury of going out whenever I want.

Brownstone wall is a good choice, with a hell of a nice view, and a pretty good hike. We did Nightcrawler not long ago (I took a 35 foot whip off the 4th pitch) and the quality of the rock up there is impeccable.

FWIW, last week there was NO ONE on Crimson, Johnny Vegas (we did it in about 30 minutes as a simul), Solar Slab, etc. Everywhere seemed deserted for some reason.

^^^ Red Zinger is pretty amazing. Indian Creek style all the way. The sun only hits the route itself for about 30 minutes around 3pm right now, IIRC.

mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 12, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Have a blast! Haven't been to Red Rocks for a few years, but loved every minute of it. Met Charlie Fowler there, and he told me he thought it might be the best overall climbing area in the world (a comment he elaborated on, at length). It's a pretty sweet place.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
Glad you made it down Bmacd and Bmike, we are all down and settled in Henderson. All you regular
s have been really helpful with route information. I'm looking for some easy crags that are suitable for kids. Cliffs that get some sun and are less than a mile from the car, any ideas? Thanks in advance. Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
harry, go forth to moderate mecca and enjoy. Keep the young'ns away from the cliff, though
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
Panty wall 5.5/5.6/a bunch of 5.7 and 5.8.
15 minute approach by RR standards.

Another good alternative is White Slab at Calico Hills. TR 5.6/5.8. Very close to the parking lot for the days when you or the gang have just had enough. A nice area to hike with the kids, not much elevation loss or gain and some cool scenery, probably covered with top ropes on weekends.

Post pics of your future Rock stars.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
Beulahs book 5.9 to sundog 5.9+ on the solar slab. Much better than solar slab itself, which is cool but pretty uneventful.

Thanks! Looks fun!

Just chillin at the Black Sheep for a bit before goin out to the Milks. Life is good on the Eastside...

Sick dude! How are the temps? Pics look warm!!

Edit: I posted a couple of more pics from Greg Connor over on your B and W thread.

I sure HOPE you and Bmacd can make it out here to the APPLE!

COOOOL!!!! Thanks Dwain! Ill go check him out!

Bruce is all about multi so it might not happen.. Maybe if I tire him out real good, but it might be tough to leave the luxury we are paying for!

thedogfather- you're killing it with the pics!! Thanks! Looks rad. Something around that zone might be the plan tomorrow.

You'll probably want to stay in the sun for at least the next 5 days. It's quite cold in the shade right now, and all the good stuff in Black Velvet will have pretty frigid rock.

Your not kidding bbj!! It was awesome in the sun today! Perfect temps!

It's a pretty sweet place.

Heck ya it is Mooser!!! So gorgeous and the rock is so cool!


We went out Calico today to hit up MM. I really wanted to get on Valentines day!


The gruelling approach






Calico Basin






Bad Soup 5.9? Really??






Very cool landscapes! That boulder looks sweet!





This one looks really fun!!




Where the heck are we??






The Mecca of Moderates



Once we got our bearings Bmacd jumped on Abbey Road for a nice warm up. He sent it in style. I got him to toprope me on Fleet Street after which had a couple moves that seemed a bit harder than that! Would be a bold lead.


Bruce racking up.




Beautiful rock!




Found this on the trail


Then we went over to valentines day and I sent that. Took way too much big gear (#3 friend up to #3 Camalot and didn't place any of it.


Valentines day 5.8+



I took a couple pics of Bruce with his camera so maybe I can get him to post some up later if any turned out.

I toproped Ace of Hearts after and it was rad! I had to pull the Ondra screaming technique out of the bag to get through the crux. Bruce asked me "what's going on up there?" ;) I got up it clean tho which was sweet. That would be a *really* bold lead!!!


Hope to get out with you guys (Bmacd+Bmike) for some cragging after your bitching multi pitching!

Yeah! Abbey Road that we did today would be perfect for the kids. Not much for toproping options tho if you aren't leading with them.
Lurky Lurkington

Trad climber
eh?
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Recommendations =

Frigid Air Buttress &#40;February 2012 - dress warmly&#41;
Frigid Air Buttress (February 2012 - dress warmly)
Credit: Lurky Lurkington
Challenger &#40;March 2012&#41;
Challenger (March 2012)
Credit: Lurky Lurkington
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Cool Lurky!!! Thanks for the sick pics!

Rolf- thanks for the invite!!
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Feb 12, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
The Warrior
The Warrior
Credit: Gobi
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