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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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This must be the dawning of the age of Aquarius. Being a '58 baby as you I prefered the plateau when the best Mexican eats in Utah used to be in Caineville until they moved to the Torrey metropolis.
Ho Man, you must mean the Luna Mesa Cafe. I used to hang with Dennis the Owner a bit. He was certifiably insane. Kidnapped by aliens, the works. And grilled one damn fine rib eye.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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Yep, don't know what ta tell ya boys, but you can park yer car, warm up on this here thang, shoulder yer crack rack and walk ten minutes to do some God's Own Splitters on them thar high Wingate cliffy-thangies. Shore is purty in these parts.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Feb 14, 2013 - 03:06am PT
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I'm on my way...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 03:44am PT
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What, drive for a gazillion miles to yank pockets on big rocks barely the size of my grandaddy's root cellar?!
Sure, why not.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 04:38am PT
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BK, the stealth sw0le, the Tiny Dancer, unofficial Flagstaff Dalai Lama and reluctant gravitational center of the Flagtown trans-generational newschool and oldschool scenes, tip-toeing up "The Hornshroom", a massively classic problem that took me a few tries. Well, quite a few tries. Well, many, many tries. Don't ask me about the name, I wasn't there and that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Wayne County just don't get much better than this. It's a good, honest workingman's 20 footer with the crux at the top yarding on a craky flake. Berg heil!
This is where I'd usually decide to downclimb a couple of moves and jump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Once the Big Stones are over the lip
You sure as hell ain't gonna slip
Even with dedicated cuppers to soften the trip!
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weezy
climber
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Feb 16, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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what in the wide wide world of sports is this thread doing on page five??? not on my watch.
here's to chossy domes, tight slots, pocketed rocks and camping in the soot
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 16, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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scheriously pondering another trip. last trip was pre-Shanty panti flapper... oh1 maybe. when do it melt out?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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Wayne County Godstones. We're back.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Of course, we all know I'm just shilling for this guy. I get a $0.002 cent commission on every copy sold! w00t w00t!
looks like some folks need to write a guide to everything in the world.....i am left wondering WTF4? really?
thats too f*#king bad.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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His guide will direct you to some obvious spots that have been previously covered in numerous previous guides, but aside from Big Rocks there is nothing this thread that's in his book. I located all of'em the old-fashioned way -- by learning to read maps, interpreting aerial photos, having a good 4X4, memorizing the stratigraphic column of the Clorado Plateau, getting freindly with the old-timer ranchers and BLM and Forest Service types, and having a willingness to drive and hike and explore just for the fun of it. Explore much?
Same as it ever was.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Feb 22, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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Explore much?
i climbed at big rocks while you were still trying to be a legend in your own mind.
i climbed in capitol reef while the slings on the Castle were still useable from the FA.
i am lamenting a guidebook for every corner of the world.
sorry, but thats old school, you know before pads.
carrion.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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i climbed at big rocks while you were still trying to be a legend in your own mind.
You were climbing at Big Rocks in 1973?! Damn, son.
Excuse me. I didn't realize it was a competition. But if it is...sure, I'll take the Pepsi challenge.
I'd been bouldering daily for over 20 years before the first "Crash Pads" (duct tape coated sofa matresses?) became a twinkle in Verm's eye. Unless you count the pilfered curry mattress that Yabo threw under Bachar Cracker in '76/77. I thot BC was a big sporty before then...those blocks were gnar on the backbones.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 22, 2013 - 09:40am PT
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Friday morning bump for the hard-drivin' goods...
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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still waiting for my mind to be blown with Wayne County sw0le!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Lotsa fun, throwaway 30 minute circuits 5 minutes from the Cap Reef NP Visitor Center...the wall behild and on the left in this pic has a great line-up of old 5.10 and 5.11 and 5.12 splitters. Hong, Bruckman, Olevsky, et al. 80's stuff.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Keep'm comin' bvb.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Feb 27, 2013 - 01:32am PT
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So ol' Hawk was there before carrion?
Man, that's a long time ago.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 08:57am PT
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Its easy to have been everywhere when you're really nowhere at all
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 27, 2013 - 09:51am PT
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Bob... keep the pics coming...
And Hawk.... so do you have any cool photos to share?
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