Big Rocks!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 302 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 23, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
I hereby dedicate this thread to some wildly remote and underappreciated bouldering areas that deserves a little bit of goddamn respect. The endless jewels of Wayne County, Utah, Colorado Plateau, United States of America.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
Anybody else climbed here? It's worthy.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Not to worry Cosmic, I have photos of topless females crushing V6's there like nobody's business. Hope the h8ers can cope.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
This one is killer. The center route on The Brain. Furious, hard slapper moves from one sloper to another out a roof, desperately heel hooking all the way, and just when you start to feel pumped you have to deal with this hideous crimpfest finish. Visiting SLC people swore it was V6. We called it Big Rocks 5.11c. Snow-covered 12,000-foot high plateau mountains in the background.

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
I Love BIG ROCKS and undersung areas!



justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 23, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
I'm lichen it!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
This problem is still one of my all-time favorites. Powercrimps through a bulge, some letterbox slots in the steep, then a knee-knocking finish on slopers with a leg-cracking landing. I don't think I ever named it. What was the point? At this stage I'd been bouldering there day after day, week after week, alone, for over 7 years. the only climber for miles. Closest other climbers were in Moab, 160 miles away. The new Wayne County guidebook calls it V4 X.

Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 23, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
It's the price of being an American Legend. Shit's expensive, right?

I'm digging on yer pics.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 23, 2013 - 10:17pm PT

So it's in Arizona?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
This is The Whiffleball. A bit spicy, but nbd. Swear to God we had like 15 problems lined up side-by-side on this spectacularly good little nugget. Here is Jocelyn airing it out a bit. Wish I had a better scanner 'cause this does not do it justice. Apparently some of the problems -- including this one -- have become lame-ass three-bolt sport routes. Next time I go there those bolts are history.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
I know a guy that does bolt removal, for a small fee. ;)

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
An entirely worthy warm-up. Early March 2004? Even at 7,500 feet, if the sun is out and there's no wind you're in there. It's nice and cool in the summer, too. Love this private playground.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Another bad scanned photo of a swank, swank boulder: The Rabbit Valley Overhang. There are four problems tacking this stellar roof on bullet stone. This thing is V4 in the new guide; the crack on the right -- Vapor Lock -- is called V5. Buncha 5.11c's if ya ask me. Kids these days...

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:27am PT
Big Rocks from...OUTER SPACE! Great place to eat 'shrooms. All the problems pictured so far are in this snapshot; this snapshot is maybe 1/10th of the total area.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
OMFG BOOBS! Please God don't let t*r become upset with me and petition the BLM to have Big Boobs, er I mean BIG ROCKS quarried to ensure no impressionable young college moisties, uh, I mean freshies, ah, I mean Freshman become ADDICTED to the DEMEANING sport of BOULDERING there! OMFG I am so upset right now I need to go sprinkle some glitter on my copy of "Our Bodies, Ourselves" and cuddle with my Unicorn!
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Jan 24, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Cosmic...I sense some objectification coming from you....you'd better cover your O's...RJ
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:16am PT
Cosmic...Quit stalking me...RJ
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:17am PT
Great shots and history, Bob - Ah, the salad days...

Erik
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 24, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Red leaf for me, friend. :)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 01:47am PT
Seriously, there's just no way to go wrong with this fine little stone. The thing I'm on is a thrilling little V3ish problem that pulls an itty bitty roof on hyper-committing slopers. Do. Not. Fall. Best problem EVER goes directly up the middle of the white streak on absurd slopers, then grapples the roof. Scary and very committing at the top. No name, but it's way harder than other problems that have been tagged V5 or V6 by others. I'm thinking...wait for it...you guessed it...BIG ROCKS 5.11c!

Messages 1 - 20 of total 302 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta