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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
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The other bonus - you got to keep one of the carabiners!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
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Happy belated birthday!
I read that most people who die in motorcycle accidents are either inexperienced so they make beginner mistakes or have been riding a very long time and get careless/relaxed. I wonder if that's the case for climbing?
Good thing I'm one of the invincible intermediates!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Home away from Home
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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My goodness, Jim... PHEW!!! (my god... my hands tingled when I read this)
Happy Birthday, and then some! (and then some more.)
~peace
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Scary sh:t. Glad your OK. If one old sling is not good what about ten of them. Seems like you are constantly running into crap like that in the needles. It is one time that I think bolting is probably better and more esthetic at the same time. Mike
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Damn... makes you wonder how many people lowered off that single piece recently... Is that a popular climb?
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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wow +1 for back ups. this has prompted me to throw out that naggy piece of webbing I carry around for leaver gear. Found it about 3 years ago as someone else's bale webbing. heh .. better to toss it. I am SO glad you clipped the back up.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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Damn Donini!
Super sketchy, glad everything worked out.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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Happy birthday Jim. Erik has one this weekend as well. Lot of Capricorns floating around this site.
Yup- Sedona is scary as hell. Glad you are alive.
Chock that one up to adventure climbing Sedona 101. I've seen Cul-De-Sac from a distance, but the wind was howling that day so we didn't climb it. How was the climb? The crack looks pretty good.
Believe it or not.. when I was assisting the boys with the guide, I tried to find detailed descent beta on every route 10a and under to keep us noobs from epic-ing on the moderates. Cul-De-Sac was one of the bogies that I couldn't find info. I sent out a round of emails to locals and never got a reliable report on what the was at the top of that crack or how the hell you get down so the guide is somewhat vague. (Call it a homage to Randy Vogel LOL). After publication I heard about the tattered slings, but the book was already on the shelves by then. Meh.
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grover
climber
Northern Mexico
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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Happy Birthday!
Glad to hear it worked out for ya!
Jammed knot saved the day....WOW!
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hb81
climber
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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I read that most people who die in motorcycle accidents are either inexperienced so they make beginner mistakes or have been riding a very long time and get careless/relaxed. I wonder if that's the case for climbing?
This is exactly the case according to statistics.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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I recall belaying and rapping from a huge nest of old tat up on Point Beyond. I checked the 8-10 old slings and they'd all been gnawed on and some gnawed through by rats. I took a new piece of webbing and made another soon-to-be-gnawed-through sling around the same flake. Yuk! A lot to be said for permanent anchors with chains on popular climbs!!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Bolts and 4 quick links are way less of and eyesore and 1,000 times better than slings. If I have to construct a sling anchor I almost never use webbing. I use old climbing rope.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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Thanks for listening to your inner voice there Mr Donini. The news of your demise in a rappelling accident would have been simply terrible.
Quite a few years ago I was climbing with Herb Laeger at a rarely visited Kern Cyn crag. I had led the last pitch and when Herb got to the belay I started to set up the rap off some old slings. Herb looked at me like I was nuts, and gave me a new piece of webbing to add to the anchor. I thought he was overcautious, and so to test my theory I tied the new backup about two inches looser than the old slings, not enough to shock load the bolts but enough to test the old slings, which parted like the one you describe...
Regarding all the recommendations for chains, I think that in most cases they are ugly and unaesthetic. The Fixe hangers with a ring through them are much nicer. Or at a heavily used anchor, a pair of lap links which are so easy and cheap to replace. Just my opinion but I really hate mussy hooks, they are so ugly.
Of course the important news is that Donini decided to clip the backup!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
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Damn... makes you wonder how many people lowered off that single piece recently... Is that a popular climb? Here's a picture of the route in question:
Probably hasn't been done in a while - the initial looseness scares people off. Definitely NOT a "popular" climb...it gets 2 stars for the upper crack.
Technicolor Corner (nearby) IS a popular route, however - get on that one, Jim?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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Yep...that's the route. It gets two stars for the crack but probably deserves one. Did Epitaph right after the episode- good route. The next day we climbed Coyote Tower a really good climb. My upper right leg was wicked stiff from banging it against the rock when the anchor failed.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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SO glad that back up was there-and that you used it. Phew!
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Whew! Dodged a bullet there. I'm depending on Donini for a ride to the party tonight.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Looks pretty UV cooked to me.
Once it's already turned white, how does one know it hasn't been cooked 100x more? Eventually it turns to dust and blows away, right?
Sounds like a really scary close call.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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If in doubt, leave the blue Camalot...
Happy extra birthday, now you will be getting twice as old even sooner
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 10, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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Climbing is a dirty and dangerous sport;.....glad this worked out OK..........climb on, young man...
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