Surviving Sedona.....January 8th is my new second birthday

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 179 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:32pm PT

Wow! Glad you're still with us, Jim.

Did you have to burn your pants???

hee hee hee. . .
Gary

Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
I hate to rap.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
Man, I keep thinking of how many of us would have been bummed at the alternative.... Jim's one of the strongest voices here, an iconoclast with a heart of gold. I'm glad we're getting a friendly lesson instead.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
I applaud your dedication to scientific inquiry.
Don't get carried away, though!

Glad you made it through this OK.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Damn! That was close.

Recent months bring lessons from climbing's best of the best, in all senses. As climbers and as men.

To do a "John Long check" now means:

CHECK YOUR HARNESS TIE-IN.

To threw in a "Jim Donini" now means:

BACK UP YOUR RAPP ANCHOR.

So glad we will visiting the Winds together again.
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
WOW! Close one.
Your instincts took over again.
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
The other bonus - you got to keep one of the carabiners!

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Happy belated birthday!

I read that most people who die in motorcycle accidents are either inexperienced so they make beginner mistakes or have been riding a very long time and get careless/relaxed. I wonder if that's the case for climbing?

Good thing I'm one of the invincible intermediates!
Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
My goodness, Jim... PHEW!!! (my god... my hands tingled when I read this)

Happy Birthday, and then some! (and then some more.)


~peace
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Scary sh:t. Glad your OK. If one old sling is not good what about ten of them. Seems like you are constantly running into crap like that in the needles. It is one time that I think bolting is probably better and more esthetic at the same time. Mike
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Jan 10, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
Damn... makes you wonder how many people lowered off that single piece recently... Is that a popular climb?
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
wow +1 for back ups. this has prompted me to throw out that naggy piece of webbing I carry around for leaver gear. Found it about 3 years ago as someone else's bale webbing. heh .. better to toss it. I am SO glad you clipped the back up.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Damn Donini!
Super sketchy, glad everything worked out.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
Happy birthday Jim. Erik has one this weekend as well. Lot of Capricorns floating around this site.

Yup- Sedona is scary as hell. Glad you are alive.

Chock that one up to adventure climbing Sedona 101. I've seen Cul-De-Sac from a distance, but the wind was howling that day so we didn't climb it. How was the climb? The crack looks pretty good.

Believe it or not.. when I was assisting the boys with the guide, I tried to find detailed descent beta on every route 10a and under to keep us noobs from epic-ing on the moderates. Cul-De-Sac was one of the bogies that I couldn't find info. I sent out a round of emails to locals and never got a reliable report on what the was at the top of that crack or how the hell you get down so the guide is somewhat vague. (Call it a homage to Randy Vogel LOL). After publication I heard about the tattered slings, but the book was already on the shelves by then. Meh.
grover

climber
Northern Mexico
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Happy Birthday!

Glad to hear it worked out for ya!

Jammed knot saved the day....WOW!



hb81

climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
I read that most people who die in motorcycle accidents are either inexperienced so they make beginner mistakes or have been riding a very long time and get careless/relaxed. I wonder if that's the case for climbing?

This is exactly the case according to statistics.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jan 10, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
I recall belaying and rapping from a huge nest of old tat up on Point Beyond. I checked the 8-10 old slings and they'd all been gnawed on and some gnawed through by rats. I took a new piece of webbing and made another soon-to-be-gnawed-through sling around the same flake. Yuk! A lot to be said for permanent anchors with chains on popular climbs!!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 10, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Bolts and 4 quick links are way less of and eyesore and 1,000 times better than slings. If I have to construct a sling anchor I almost never use webbing. I use old climbing rope.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 10, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
Thanks for listening to your inner voice there Mr Donini. The news of your demise in a rappelling accident would have been simply terrible.

Quite a few years ago I was climbing with Herb Laeger at a rarely visited Kern Cyn crag. I had led the last pitch and when Herb got to the belay I started to set up the rap off some old slings. Herb looked at me like I was nuts, and gave me a new piece of webbing to add to the anchor. I thought he was overcautious, and so to test my theory I tied the new backup about two inches looser than the old slings, not enough to shock load the bolts but enough to test the old slings, which parted like the one you describe...

Regarding all the recommendations for chains, I think that in most cases they are ugly and unaesthetic. The Fixe hangers with a ring through them are much nicer. Or at a heavily used anchor, a pair of lap links which are so easy and cheap to replace. Just my opinion but I really hate mussy hooks, they are so ugly.

Of course the important news is that Donini decided to clip the backup!
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
Damn... makes you wonder how many people lowered off that single piece recently... Is that a popular climb?
Here's a picture of the route in question:

Cul-de-Sac Crack, Schnebly Hill Road area.
Cul-de-Sac Crack, Schnebly Hill Road area.
Credit: MisterE

Probably hasn't been done in a while - the initial looseness scares people off. Definitely NOT a "popular" climb...it gets 2 stars for the upper crack.
Technicolor Corner (nearby) IS a popular route, however - get on that one, Jim?
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