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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 15, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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You cheated death once again!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
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A few posts back I made some comments about not bounce-testing in-situ rap anchors and not knowing anyone who did. This engendered a "discussion" with High Fructose CS.
I recently encountered an account of an ascent of the Supercalenta on Fitzroy that included the following remark:
Max and I took turns to lead the endless abseils, which required care, as many old in-situ anchors blew on the first bounce test.
(See http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5222 for the full account.)
Looks as if other people make a habit of this, to good effect.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Apr 16, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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Thank you, Donini, for reminding us to stay alert and always provide a redundant, make yer mama happy, backup to any suspect anchor (especially ez and reasonable for raps).
A fellow from SLC just plummeted 60 feet in a technical canyon near Hanksville known as Constrychnine. He was 1/3 of the way down a 90' rap that the six people before him had safely completed. The webbing (unclear whether 1" or 11/16"or what) parted near the quicklink and he hit the ground, fracturing his pelvis, ankles, and more. The last man on the rap had a SPOT, re-rigged, rapped, and headed downcanyon to call in the cavalry. Now, this is not something you really want to do in Wayne County. I have heard nightmare stories about the local Wayne Co. SAR team showing up in loafers, failing to carry sufficient anti-seizure meds for members of their own team, rapping into the depths of a canyon for a rescue without the knowledge required to safely ascend the rope and self-extricate. Ultimately some hours later, a chopper from Page hauled the injured guy out to Grand Junction Regional. EDIT: FWIW, the SAR volunteers that showed up to this recent (4/15/13) accident were apparently great. Cheers to them!
I sure hope the guy that got hurt heals well.
Let's be ultra-vigilant folks, let's KNOTT trust fixed soft-goods, or at least test them full-body weight with a backup prior to committing. Thanks Donini, again, for the reminder to CYA!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2015 - 05:32pm PT
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Another bump to promote rappelling saftey.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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This was the single dumbest thing I've done in a career where I've usually got it right. To think that someone with my experience could experience such a massive brain fart should give everyone pause.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 31, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
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So Birthday Boy--- Do you still climb with mostly knotted long runners or have you switched to sewn ones?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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Steve....I'm totally new school. A few knotted ones if I think I have to build a rappel.
Off to the Caucasus on Wednsday .....back 10/6 for desert sandstone.
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john hansen
climber
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Aug 31, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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A good reminder for you too before your trip. Hope you are bringing lots of extra webbing..
And a blue camalot ,,
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Today I finished a pitch and set a tree-anchored belay. Bail slings around this ponderosa, crusty white and molded, held a rapide. My partner climbed up, passed me and did the next pitch. I went to remove the trashed anchor sling, tugged at it to find the knots and the whole doubled-loop setup came loose. It appears that a rodent nibbled clean through the webbing near to two different knots.
Bail sling is cheap and we all like hiking out under our own power. Watch that bad tat and stay vigilant!
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