Surviving Sedona.....January 8th is my new second birthday


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Social climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Yep, it is listed as no fixed anchor in our book, with a notation that there is a bad anchor.

Never did that one, the start looks chossy but the upper crack looks pretty good. Meaning of Life is the continuation.

Glad you are OK, Jim - sounds like a close one.


Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
Crap Jim--I just read this.

I'm sure BITD, you have had other close calls, but at our "advanced" age, we really don't need anymore.

I'm sending this on to my daughter, who is on the way to Mexico to climb.

Social climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
Wow. Sobering. Glad you are still around, Jim.

Surprised at how easily the webbing parted. My experience is that bleached webbing is surprisingly strong (I did one about the last ascents of the Shield on the original RURP webbing on the Groove pitch; very, very scary. That webbing was a decade old, crispy, white, all gone but for a few strands, obviously severely damaged, still held my weight).

Do you have any idea how strong the rest of the broken webbing is? From the nice photo, it looks like you brought it down with you.

I'd be really interested in some kind of testing, either formally by the guys at BD or else just by making a loop, hanging (just over a bouldering pad or a couple inches off the ground or somewhere safe) and seeing how easy it is to break the remains just with bodyweight.

My hunch (hope?) is that your "inspection" was basically visual, and did not involve running your fingers all along the inside, unseen side of the webbing. And I kinda hope that where it broke it was either on a sharpish edge and/or an abrasive section of rock and the unseen, invisible side was severely worn/cut already from wind, etc.

Maybe wishful thinking on my part. If the rest is horribly weak then I'll be recalibrating, for sure.

And again, glad you survived to live and climb another day!

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
glad to hear that you lived to tell the tale Jim.

Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
Very cool you listened to that little voice, Jim. It's funny how often it's right.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
Nice story Coz. Crusher, Bill Bellcourt from BD is coming to the Ouray Ice Festival. I'm giving him the sling to take back for testing. It broke in an area where there were no previous dings. I did run my fingers around the sling as part of my inspection, I'll post the test results.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
test results say youll be backin those up in the future.

I left a new sling even of there were 6 old many in the palisades..Quit being CHEAP! ;-)

Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
So, Mr. Skeptic, does this make you born again?

Apparently the Lord of Creation intended for you to stick around!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
I agree with you Ron. I'll bring some tied slings on future forays in my second climbing career.
The biggest danger for the experienced climber is becoming blasť. Gravity is a constant and there are no angels to catch you.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Moral of the story NEVER assume that an older sling is good even after careful inspection.

Glad you made it! Still, not THAT careful an inspection as you can see the traces that used to be the color of the sling even in that photo. On the top of Church Tower in Yosemite, and rapping on Space Babble, I've encountered 1in tubular that I could rip in half easily with bare hands, even those it had no tears. I'm pretty liberal about rapping on older slings but completely bleached by uv is another story



Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
My bad Karl, you are absolutely right......hopefully others will take note that even an experienced climber like me can make bonehead decisions.

Ice climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
Jim, so glad to hear you had a back up. Now you have TWO birthdays to celebrate....seems like that's enough! :-)

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
See you at the Ice Fest Pam.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
Dang, Jim!
Don't die yet, we have to do the NIAD together one of these days!,

Trad climber
Lafayette, CO
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
One of the first things the locals taught me when I moved to Tucson was that webbing dies incredibly quickly there in the sun. If there's visible fading, or the webbing is crunchy at all, it's absolutely not trustworthy.

People I'd climb with in Yosemite looked at me like I was crazy when I questioned using fixed webbing there.

"The biggest danger for the experienced climber is becoming blasť."

^^ This. A thousand times.

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
Thank God you are alright, Jim!
It was good that you used that second piece of webbing.

I am very HAPPY I didn't LOSE another FRIEND!!!


Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Glad you survived a(nother) close call, Jim. Look forward to sharing a rope and glass of wine at CoR this Summer?

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:22pm PT

In my almost 2 year climbing career I have never had a problem an with an old piece of webbing.

Happy second birthday Mr. Donini!

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
Crap! Happy second B-day

Never hurts to back stuff up especially if it's quick and easy to do eh?

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Jan 10, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Good thing you can still throw a good hand jam!

Never let you're guard down . . .
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