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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 11, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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Dirtineye, you forgot about the weight of the rope which the second doesn't have to deal with. Now I suggest that when you get to the crux you.....
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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Bump for Curt. And a fine, irascible thread.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
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IHA9"D
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2009 - 05:28am PT
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barbarian, your way is only good if you have a partner of the oppisite ses, or you are gay.
Good idea, but sort of missed the point of the thread.
Some things are better left for later, back at the van, anyway.
It would be nice if this thread could continue, but apparently most of the truly great tricks have already been pulled adn described here.
I guess I should mention that putting a bit of chalk on an impossible 'hold'or two and then aiding thought the impossible to free section adn neglecting to tell the second is always good for a laugh, if a bit over used and somewaht of a cliche after all.
still, everyone should do this at least once. I sear the second will never forget it, having been there, done that, and I was the poor second who spent 30 minutes trying to free 5. impossible and wondering just what sort of climbing god I was going up the route behind.
Long live climbers and their particular brand of humor!
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Feb 28, 2009 - 11:10am PT
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my fave is to untie when the belayer can't see me and thread the rope through some impossible squeeze and retie.The follower then has to figure that out.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 28, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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Thank you, thank you, thank you.
(and at the time I'd barely done one wall. Now, one of my partners says I'm full of tricks.
At least I think she said "tricks",..)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 28, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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It might be consistent with the spirit of the thread for Ron to ask for royalties from kinnikinnik, for use of his award-winning technique.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 28, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
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I haven't had time to peruse more than the first page but I can see this is an erudite and 'penetrating' exposition. Since I have not seen more than the first page I am wondering if withholding a top rope for whiners on '3rd class' has been examined. In retrospect the time it would have taken to toss the rope down would have more than made up for the verbal and emotional abuse it has cost me in the ensuing 25 years. It probably also was not wise to do so on one's honeymoon.
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reddirt
climber
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Mar 23, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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this weekend made me think of this thread.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 23, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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Red..... pretty cryptic.
I had an Ex-partner who could never figure out how to protect 2nd on long traverses. Three strikes your out.
RIP Dirt.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Mar 27, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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One of my favorites is the old "wobbly-stopper-as-the-first-piece" trick. Upon arriving at the belay, the leader pulls up the rope, and as soon as it is tensioned, the piece pops and spins down the rope to give the second a little wake-up call just before climbing. Nothing larger than a #12 stopper or a #5 tri-cam, of course...wouldn't want anyone to get hurt.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 28, 2010 - 02:36am PT
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Dirt-
There is a picture around the 700-800th post I think in the Souther Yosemite thread that depicts the correct method of slingin panties.
Pretty funny stuff here, I always like answering the whimpering calls from above with "Don't you worry about what were doing down here, you got your own shi+ to deal with" Which is usually followed by "GFU" from above.
Sort of reverse
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
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A time honored tradition!
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Jim E
climber
away
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Aug 24, 2010 - 10:01am PT
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bump
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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I affectionately refer to my second as "the storage unit". If a climb requires big gear on just one pitch, then simply stash the large gear on your storage unit until you arrive at the pitch. Of course, they are also required to carry all the shoes.
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Bobert
Trad climber
boulder, Colorado
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You gotta be careful with those seconds though. Renn Fenton once told me about a time when he recruited an indian in a bar to come belay him on a route he was planning. He took the guy to the climb, showed him how to belay and supplied him with a six pack. Apparently it took longer than planned and the belayer finished the six pack, tied Renn to a post and left.
He ended up talking a tourist into untying the rope and giving him a sort of belay while he finished he pitch.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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At TM half way up the Yawn 5.9 OW. I loving it......the OW ........when suddunly I have to turn around and my approach shoes get wrapped around a piece of gear or the rope . I made the spit decision to unlclip my shoes and let them hang for the second to deal with.
She ended up falling while tring to get everthing organized while she was climbing. Nor did she really endjoy the last bit before the belay, where things get a lttle tighter.
That is my FTS!
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Bobert- Even a seemingly reliable belay can go south. I was about 2/3 up a short wall in the Valley when we heard shrieking tires and a rolling MGB- after which my cousin jettisoned the belay and ran to help. His "help" on this occasion mainly consisted of stowing a hash pipe and its fuel, ostensibly to spare the inebriated driver from possession charges. When I confronted him with the abandoning the belay, he replied, "I knew you had it under control."
Flattery will get you everywhere.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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I've screwed myself by loosing the v thread tool and ending up downclimbing the whole route, as a second.
I've never done this leave the rack thing, but it sounds like a good idea.
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