The fine art of screwing the second

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NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
May 13, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
Someone mentioned this in the thread already I think... but leaving a raunchy smell at the belay just as you cast off, poor bugger tied in short with nowhere to run... and all you can offer is "I'm sorry" in between snickers. Poor le_bruce, lived through the dark days before I discovered what foods my body doesn't handle well. And then BAM! There it is again just as they reach you at the next belay station! Sometimes you have to laugh because the rope you're tied into won't let you slink away in shame.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 13, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
I've reached an age where I'm pretty much done for the day after screwing the first.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Dec 22, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 22, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
but leaving a raunchy smell at the belay just as you cast off,

[Click to View YouTube Video]

"Who farts at a beeee-lay? Honestly?"

Nutjob, that's who.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 22, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
Lifted off the Southern Yosemite thread:

Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Dec 23, 2014 - 05:25am PT
How about snarging the second?! When I started climbing ice I got a buddies old rack and it had its share of snargs with a couple screws. We would try to out snarg each other by pounding snargs in from pumpy stances or into deepish cleaves. Good times!!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 23, 2014 - 06:52am PT
^ classic oldschool screwing..Excellent

A proper screwing of the second does not sacrifice safety.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Dec 23, 2014 - 09:21am PT
My friend Duke would bring wide gear with him on every climb and find a way to leave it for you somehow, sometimes very creatively. 5.3 not wide section??! Better place the #5.

He thought it was the most hilarious thing ever to make his second carry extra weight. If you grumbled about it he got even happier.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Dec 23, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
I've reached an age where I'm pretty much done for the day after screwing the first.

Now that is FUNNY!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 23, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
When I did Tis-sa-ack with Rick Linsky I unintentionally screwed him. It was the second or so pitch, the one that goes horizontal to the right for 50 or 80 feet.

It is largely the same size the whole way, 2"-3" or so. I had to back clean my cams, we didn't have that many and I left gaps of...well let's just say they were more than a guy of 6'4" could reach across.

He had to do a several wild swings and pendy follow maneuvers to get his ass across. It wasn't pretty.

He was pretty pissed off when he got to the belay.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 24, 2014 - 03:02am PT
The classic totall Ahole move is to place a bomber piece, do the crux move and then run out an easy traverse. I saw a shirtless Ahole do this to his GF a few years ago. She is looking at a 40ft penji and he is up there annoyed at how slow she is following bellowing the classic. "just use your feet, it's not that hard...."
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Dec 24, 2014 - 07:39am PT
I climbed Sidewinder in J-Tree with Steph Davis back in 2000, her lead. She inched her way out along the foot traverse, finally reached the end and "just had to" stuff a TCU in a crack before pulling the moderate topout moves, leaving me with a bigger pendulum fall following than she would have had leading! It all worked out though and I was glad for the challenge.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 24, 2014 - 08:25am PT
dee ee, I approve! I did the same to Bruce Hawkins, who is an inch taller than me, on the
traverse high on the University Wall at Squamish, although I didn't back clean. I used a chest
harness so I could clip my daisy to it and get almost horizontal to place the next pin.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jan 15, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
Thinking this belongs here:


Leader/belayer (TC) in blue lower right. Camera/ cleaning crew above.

This is Tom Evans photo from El Cap Report's site.

Hoping o.k to post here. If not, will delete promptly.


Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Apr 16, 2019 - 04:35pm PT
Curt, JB, Juan, bump them all back to the top, they deserve to see this spectacle too
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Apr 16, 2019 - 11:02pm PT
Well my partner screwed me on "The Curving Vine" traverse pitch on the Diamond and I ended up taking quite a pendulum and ended up in no man's land.

I returned the favor and pushed my only #4 all the way across the "Womb Fight" on Stoned Oven in the Black and he had to second that bastard sans gear at night.

I had no sympathy for him...well maybe just a little ;-)

S...
Messages 141 - 156 of total 156 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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