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Messages 281 - 292 of total 292 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Aug 31, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
How about some names to go with those faces?
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 31, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
That would be (l to r) Jimmy Newberry, Bob Dickerson, John Pearson (whose nose was split open by a rock while belaying John Rosholt leading up to the Roofs of Mordor on the FA of Journey Through Mirkwood), and the late Scotty Gilbert (brother of Michael Gilbert of Boulder).
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Aug 31, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
Always loved that name (big Tolkien fan, and, of course, it fits), Thanks!

Also, love the picture -- a lot.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Apr 24, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
Got a minor one. So, yesterday, Henry Lester and I did the Porcelain Arete, a 12-pitch 5.9+ immediately upstream from the Painted Wall. To be perfectly honest, it's probably the least-recommended of the routes I've done in the Black. I'd tell you to bring a canister of and delivery system for Roundup, but then, half of the bushes appear dead already. Gardening tools might be better.

The satisfaction in doing a route like this is in summiting a significant feature that involves a full day of hiking and climbing (those are 12 long pitches), killer positions and views, and not getting your ass lost. I can barely walk down the 5 stairs from the upstairs to the main level today.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Apr 24, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
Typical scene on the Porcelain Arete, 2005. NWR on the Black Canyon rating system in my opinion (Not Worth Repeating :-)
Vic

climber
Apr 25, 2017 - 07:38pm PT
Porcelain Arete - such a beautiful feature and position in the Black Canyon. Full-on, moderate, alpine adventure. If only the quality of the climbing was a little bit better. Kor was onto something, for sure.

W.R.T.Y.L. (Worth Repeating Ten Years Later)... once you forget about those man-eating bushes and dirt in your eyes.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Apr 25, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
NICE views on that arete!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Apr 26, 2017 - 04:50am PT
Well said, Vic. On further reflection, I'm changing my least-recommended opinion. I've been thinking about the climb a lot. In many ways, this is a perfect adventure climb at very moderate grade, but don't expect a more moderate version of the Scenic Cruise. And don't expect Journey Home 5.9 pitches. The climbing is mostly easy with just a move or two of 5.9 here and there. It's fun to move fast. The overall adventure involves a big hiking component, and it wouldn't be that hard to get off-route. To tell you the truth, I'm actually not all that bothered by the bushes.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Apr 26, 2017 - 06:49am PT
Bump for the Black, that place is Holy Ground.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 12, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
A
Has it shed its skin yet?
Bump?

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 12, 2018 - 04:56pm PT
I’m alrady thinking of the upcoming spring season.
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
Nov 17, 2018 - 10:51pm PT
Jim Donini and I climbed a fine route this fall in the Black. I don't remember the name because I rarely consult a guidebook...I just go climbing with Jim. About halfway up he remarked, "I'll bet we're the only 150 year old climbing rope in the country!" (two 75-year olds). I seldom have a camera, but I took one in 2015 when we did "Russian Arete". Here are a few photos:
Cheers, Ralph
Messages 281 - 292 of total 292 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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