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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - May 26, 2006 - 02:14am PT
Aspen on Maclure Pass



Crawford



Slate Spires Reaching Out of Slide Draw

The Original Black Canyon Stories Thread is Here:
Fun Commentary, Including a Visit From Black Afficianado Leonard Coyne
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=181526&f=175&b=0
pyro

Trad climber
Ventura
May 26, 2006 - 02:16am PT
Nice! me likes em'black!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2006 - 02:22am PT

Striated Rock in Slide Draw



Hooker Buttress,
Home to Quite a Few Grand Adventures,
Including Some Earl Wiggins Routes: Gutsy and Elegant,
Using a Very Long Single 9mm Rope, long Runs With RP's.

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 26, 2006 - 02:23am PT
Is something wrong with the color? that green looks so odd?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2006 - 02:26am PT
Alas, On Our Recent Trip,
Our Conquests Were Modest-
Grug Atop a River Boulder:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2006 - 02:27am PT
Nuclear Greens?
That's Cuz I Jacked up the Saturation.

I'm no purist and know no shame when it comes to manipulation.
What, Ya Think Maybe I Oughta Make 'Em Bushes More Chartreuse?
bleedr

climber
robber's roost
May 26, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
S-A-T-U-R

D-A-Y

NITE!

RAIN AND CHOSS AND NIGHTCLIMBING AND FEAR AND PEG AND WIDGETS!!

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHYEA
Leroy

climber
May 27, 2006 - 07:54am PT
So ,I donīt get it.The March of Dimes climbing team went wading in the Gunnison?Do I have to come down there and lead you guys up? Picture this Grug.14000 ft ,Glaciers all around.Below you,An Astroman quality big wall,Above you the last pitch,a5.12 OW roof.Get over here.That climbs in the alps.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2006 - 09:40am PT
that's a substantial amount of wading we'll have to venture to get across the pond leroy...
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
May 27, 2006 - 10:26am PT
tar-baby, you old photo-manipulator you!

Next thing you know, you'll be giving Ouch! a run for his position as chief cartoonist, LOL.

Hey the striated rock is cool.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jun 12, 2006 - 03:09pm PT
Not much of a story here, but we got up the Porcelain Arete yesterday. Partner performed the classic 'dude, my camelbak just leaked half its contents away' routine and nearly bonked in the afternoon heat, but the trip was otherwise uneventful.
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jun 13, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
Climbed Astrodog June 3rd, learned the hard way that it is not as shady as you may think on the S. Chasm View wall. Lauri and I each brought a liter of water, as the Dog is twice as long as the Scenic Cruise we should only need twice the water right? WRONG! Just the rappells had me dehydrated, and the sun made any metal hot to the touch. The saving grace was remembering after the crux that I had brought a redbull which we slammed. Then there was the top....not soo pretty. Got off route 1 pitch from the top and committed to a licheny crystaline slab. Almost fell when my foothold deteriorated under me...that woke me from my dehydrated stupor real fast. The 5.9 manky chimney felt cruiser after that!

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jun 13, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
Kevin...The rappel for AD offers a chance to leave water at several places on the way down. We left a couple of liters at the two-bivy-boulder and took two down to the start. I think the sun hits the wall around 1pm in early June.
Elcapinyoazz

Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
Jun 13, 2006 - 05:15pm PT
Tarbaby, you need to scale back the saturation in those pics. Even velvia bumped up +20 sat in photoshop doesn't look that garish/cartoonish. Might be easier to fix with curves in the green channel though, since it looks confined mostly to one part of the spectrum.

BTW, hows the fishing in the black? Cutties and bows I'd imagine?
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jun 13, 2006 - 08:34pm PT
More like leaves the wall at 1:00pm...it's sunny all morning long. Stashing 2L at 2BB is a good idea, I realized we didn't bring enough H2O about the time I finished pulling the rope on the second rap.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jun 13, 2006 - 09:47pm PT
elcap wrote: BTW, hows the fishing in the black? Cutties and bows I'd imagine?

Big browns.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 01:14am PT
ElCapMan:
OK, You may now remove your glare shields.
I have retreated from Crayola World, and dialed down the out of control saturation on the opening tryptich at thread top.

(As for the "striated rock in slide draw" pic, hmm, I'm beset with the fated disappearing edit button... a first for me).

Here's a quick snap of N Chasm Wall, Left Side:
(l to r):
The Diagonal piercing the upper left of the photo,
Hallucinogen to the right,
The Nose near the right sunlit margin/prow.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jun 14, 2006 - 10:20am PT
This about sums up our experience on the Porcelain: grappling with pegmatite, a bush in the face, while cowering in corners away from the white-hot glare of the sun:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 10:59am PT
Sheesh Rhodo,
You could have hung sandwiches in a Jaffle Iron down out of the belays into that white-hot tempest and cooked them up nice and brown!

(btw: thanks for the heads up on the weather in the higher mountains; we had a great time in the Sangres/Crestones).
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jun 15, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
One stance shall be known henceforth as the Cabana Belay. My principal lead strategy was to stop only at places that offered shade. At the top of a rope-towing, partner-dragging 75m pitch, I found a bush (surprise!) in the dwindling shade of a corner, which was to be my home until Homey finished up his next pitch. In a burst of inspiration, I draped my spare shirt (old white button-down, riverguide style) over the poor bush and was thus able to survive the next hour of cowering.

Perhaps the greatest gift of the route was a stance inside a peg chimney near the top, leading to a cool dark cavern from which flowed a modicum of life-giving A/C air. Without this respite Homey might have perished, as he'd spent the past hour stuporifically wandering around sideways trying to find the easiest line-- only to belay in a baking-hot solar collector concavity on a black slab. I let him take the Hobbit Hole and eat his orange while I scuttled for the next patch of shade.
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