Photos of The Hourglass Left

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 106 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 29, 2006 - 08:47am PT
I'm pretty new to Supertopo, but I say this is among the best threads so far. A lot of soul exposed here and an outstanding offering to the Supertopo community.

I remembered a bit more flavor from Walt Shipley's ascent: Walt told me that when he arrived at the rest in the undercling, not only was he distressed to find that his gear wouldn't take, but things became so urgent that he just tossed the piece to the ground in lieu of racking it, so that he could save precious energy needed to keep moving.

From my time in Yosemite, late 70's to late 90's, there were very few reports surfacing about ascents of this route.

The intensity and wonderment of first ascent experience of this type stands head and shoulders above most all other types of climbing encounters. Peter and Rick, you guys tell it with a sincerity, candor, and brilliant recall that really brings it home.

Again, much appreciated and very well done.
Cheers,
Roy McClenahan
Walleye

climber
The back seat of my 69 Nark Avenger
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
I remember Bruce Brossman telling me that the crushed hexes were from the Hourglass flexing in and out from the heat projected against the formation by the sun... ?????? Any thoughts? Seems possible given how the formation is like a waifer thin mint...
Danielle Winters

Trad climber
Alaska
Nov 11, 2008 - 04:50am PT
Classic climb for sure ~. Thanks for the great photos . I stood at the base of it in the mid seventy's, and looked up one time. Just to walk away in awe . With my head hung low . never have been back . Posts like this inspire me to pump my game back up to a new level and make plans for the future.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 08:08am PT
I realize I never got back to this thread in regard to the actual true angle of the right side. That nice photo was tilted; here is the correct aspect of the rt side:



It is plenty steep and is roughly equivalent in steepness to the left side.

And in regard to the crushed protection, it is pretty easy to imagine this monster flake not only moves out a bit with ice-wedging every winter but, yeah, with earthquakes too. It is NOT attached above ground but spaced out with various chockstones both sides and deep inside. Kind of a gigantic Boot Flake situation.

best ph.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 11, 2008 - 08:59am PT
Peter

Great to see you at the Nose Reunion.

Forgot to mention this article I unburied this summer that I had written in 1962. In the summer of 62, Kamps, Sacherer and myself made numerous trips to the Hourglass. Sacherer and I began with the Right Side but took a break to climb the first one-day ascent of North Buttress of Middle Cathedral. After that we never again climbed a major route together. Long story.

So Kamps and I decided on the Left Side. What I remember most was the difficulty above the undercling. We climbed the remainder of the route free above here. As usual I wore shorts and suffered for weeks with raw knees. Climbing with Kamps was always a pleasure.

Oh, if only we had carried a camera more often in those days!!!!!!!!!!

cheers






bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:29am PT
The unprotected fall off that undercling would be really bad. Stopping to jam in pro would be pumpy too.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:35am PT
What a bitchin' thread, with the real dogs on it!!!
WBraun

climber
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:39am PT
I'll tell ya right now that beast moves while you're climbing it.

I've done the left side 5 times and each time the tube chock I placed out on the under cling was stuck. I had to kick it out on rappel.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:39am PT
Please don't write any more, gentlemen. I am beginning to fell the pull...
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 11, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
Bump. Or perhaps I should say kick - see Werner's post just upthread.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 11, 2008 - 05:43pm PT
The angle of the diagonal undercling is similar to the crux section of The Cobra (although it can be protected). People have still taken some huge falls (like 50') on that crux of The Cobra, as it is quite hard to stop and place gear in such a barn door lieback.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 11, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
Always wanted to do the Cobra...too.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Nov 11, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
"it is quite hard to stop and place gear in such a barn door lieback. "

that's kinda my point, it may be better just to run'er out like Peter did BITD. if you stop and fumble around with gear....derp!!!!!!!

The fall still sucks ass!!
MisterE

Trad climber
My Inner Nut
Nov 11, 2008 - 06:44pm PT
Peter, I must say - that account of the climb (in the link) surpasses anything I have read about climbing thus-far in my life. I was crying in joy and amazement at the feat and the prose.

Absolutely stunning.

Erik Wolfe (Borghoff)
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
Thanks Erik. Really.

ph

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 11, 2008 - 07:21pm PT
Didn't look like a good place to fall, to me.

I'd take all that cams that fit.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Nov 11, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
The photos are simply awesome. Only arrived on the Taco in the Spring of 2008. Glad when Threads like this one are brought back to life and also glad to have met you Mr. Peter Haan at the Nose Reunion. Best, Lynne Leichtfuss
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
Link to GM photo of mangled nuts found below the Hourglass.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=261800

And another link to Peter's thread about Crackjacks, the right side of the Hourglass, and such things.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=199325
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
Schneider told me about finding earthquake squished nuts on Pink Dream, or one of those other elephant rock climbs.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 25, 2009 - 07:42am PT
bump for the good stuff
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