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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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Nov 11, 2008 - 07:50am PT
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Classic climb for sure ~. Thanks for the great photos . I stood at the base of it in the mid seventy's, and looked up one time. Just to walk away in awe . With my head hung low . never have been back . Posts like this inspire me to pump my game back up to a new level and make plans for the future.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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I realize I never got back to this thread in regard to the actual true angle of the right side. That nice photo was tilted; here is the correct aspect of the rt side:
It is plenty steep and is roughly equivalent in steepness to the left side.
And in regard to the crushed protection, it is pretty easy to imagine this monster flake not only moves out a bit with ice-wedging every winter but, yeah, with earthquakes too. It is NOT attached above ground but spaced out with various chockstones both sides and deep inside. Kind of a gigantic Boot Flake situation.
best ph.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 11, 2008 - 11:59am PT
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Peter
Great to see you at the Nose Reunion.
Forgot to mention this article I unburied this summer that I had written in 1962. In the summer of 62, Kamps, Sacherer and myself made numerous trips to the Hourglass. Sacherer and I began with the Right Side but took a break to climb the first one-day ascent of North Buttress of Middle Cathedral. After that we never again climbed a major route together. Long story.
So Kamps and I decided on the Left Side. What I remember most was the difficulty above the undercling. We climbed the remainder of the route free above here. As usual I wore shorts and suffered for weeks with raw knees. Climbing with Kamps was always a pleasure.
Oh, if only we had carried a camera more often in those days!!!!!!!!!!
cheers
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
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The unprotected fall off that undercling would be really bad. Stopping to jam in pro would be pumpy too.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
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What a bitchin' thread, with the real dogs on it!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
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I'll tell ya right now that beast moves while you're climbing it.
I've done the left side 5 times and each time the tube chock I placed out on the under cling was stuck. I had to kick it out on rappel.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
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Please don't write any more, gentlemen. I am beginning to fell the pull...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
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Bump. Or perhaps I should say kick - see Werner's post just upthread.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 11, 2008 - 08:43pm PT
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The angle of the diagonal undercling is similar to the crux section of The Cobra (although it can be protected). People have still taken some huge falls (like 50') on that crux of The Cobra, as it is quite hard to stop and place gear in such a barn door lieback.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 11, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
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Always wanted to do the Cobra...too.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
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"it is quite hard to stop and place gear in such a barn door lieback. "
that's kinda my point, it may be better just to run'er out like Peter did BITD. if you stop and fumble around with gear....derp!!!!!!!
The fall still sucks ass!!
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
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Peter, I must say - that account of the climb (in the link) surpasses anything I have read about climbing thus-far in my life. I was crying in joy and amazement at the feat and the prose.
Absolutely stunning.
Erik Wolfe (Borghoff)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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Thanks Erik. Really.
ph
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 11, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
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Didn't look like a good place to fall, to me.
I'd take all that cams that fit.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 11:26pm PT
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The photos are simply awesome. Only arrived on the Taco in the Spring of 2008. Glad when Threads like this one are brought back to life and also glad to have met you Mr. Peter Haan at the Nose Reunion. Best, Lynne Leichtfuss
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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Schneider told me about finding earthquake squished nuts on Pink Dream, or one of those other elephant rock climbs.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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bump for the good stuff
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Aug 20, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
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Thanks Peter. This is my favorite climbing thread on ST so far. And reading your account on the link, was a kind of religious experience! I've never seen climbing better explained.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Aug 21, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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My first read of this too. Isn't this what you'd call an instant Literary Classic? The apology, sneaker climax, tore me right up.
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