The WideBoyz Movie is out!

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Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Dec 16, 2012 - 02:10pm PT

Or, Russ, Is It Time to Explore The Mussy Nebula? Recent investigations may have revealed your clandestine preparations....

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 5, 2013 - 03:02pm PT

I think to answer Ed's question, the two new shining young lights that come to my mind are Russ Fascente who onsighted The Mayor (mostly on bigbros) Slither and Scream, the Dragon's Lair, (again, mostly bros) Sidewinder and Sorcerers' crossing in the space of a year and Matt Keuhl who also onsighted Slither and Scream and has been putting up his own Wideness in redrocks. Both are in their twenties and just coming into their formative years

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Feb 5, 2013 - 04:10pm PT

Bought it awhile back & thought the climbing, filming, & editing were all top notch! Well put together & worth the $$. My only gripes were, like others have said- more footage of other routes they did! Give up some extras or somethin'

The other thing, & I think the reason this amazing effort maybe hasn't been fully realized by the community is because they chose to grade it, neither of them had climbed close to the grade proposed in any style. Leaving some mystery there, or calling it 5.14? Would have been a more respectable tactic perhaps, especially since an offwidth grade has never been proposed anywhere near their grade on century crack. Kinda like Fred Rouhling proposing 15b before 15a had been confirmed or that other dude who claimed 15c way back.. People will always have a hard time believing stuff like that, much like the Rouhling example I use there was also controversy over the style the wide boys used on the FFA which also sends any great climbing feat into a tailspin of speculation just as I'm doing here. Regardless, I think it was an awesome route & story & to see how dedicated the boys were to training & preparing was truly motivating & inspiring. The interviews with the wife are hilarious!!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 5, 2013 - 04:37pm PT

Except that they were seasoned climbers before this that had both climbed 5.13. And I understand Peter has unrepeated gritstone FA's.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Feb 5, 2013 - 05:24pm PT

That's cool Jay, I didn't know that about Pete & Tom as I only know them from the movie. No disrespect & I'm not questioning their abilities either-Just speculating as to why it wasn't a bigger deal in the mainstream & how grades or style can sometimes can taint a magnificent effort in the eyes of the masses. I think it's cool when unrepeated routes at the highest end of their particular style don't hold a specific grade, or the FAist doesn't particularly care about the grade, it can add the humble idea of mystery to a route.That's just me though & as an aside I also have no idea personally what I'm talking about since the difference between 5.13+ & 5.14+ for me is exactly the same= impossible! Again, awesome movie,

mojede

Trad climber

Butte, America

Feb 22, 2013 - 02:19pm PT

I bet those two never pounded in a Big-Bro to the point of destruction on a wyde climb...

...or bolted beside a wide crack either--probably clipped 'em since they were there, though :-(

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Feb 22, 2013 - 02:33pm PT

"Just speculating as to why it wasn't a bigger deal in the mainstream & how grades or style can sometimes can taint a magnificent effort in the eyes of the masses."

What was wrong with their 'style' exactly?

As for the grade, who the hell cares? People can grade routes anything they want while they wait for someone else to step up and try and confirm. The film has pretty much every wide specialist out there admitting they have ZERO chance of repeating it, with one in particular seeming especially butt-hurt that these two brits had the nerve to come over here to take on the challenge in the first place. Serious insecurity and ego on display.

Those two dudes are rad as hell, IMO.

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Feb 22, 2013 - 03:55pm PT

Anyone did try Century crack after Wide Boys? -
this would make end of discussion about the grades ...

chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Feb 22, 2013 - 04:07pm PT

I nominate you Alexey. Your Arch Rock marathon seems like the perfect warm-up for Century.

pelut espania

Big Wall climber

Espania

Feb 22, 2013 - 04:13pm PT

mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:19am PT
I bet those two never pounded in a Big-Bro to the point of destruction on a wyde climb...
...or bolted beside a wide crack either--probably clipped 'em since they were there, though :-(

What American dogs did this? Mi and mi amigos want to climb the century and place all amigos on root with the led next year and train now with no light in cellar. Viva Espania!

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Feb 22, 2013 - 06:16pm PT

What was wrong with their 'style' exactly?

I didn't say anything was wrong with their style, only that they used one that has been controversial for years. On the FFA the gear was pre placed, which some people would find debatable, that's all. I could really care less about how they climbed it , but climbing it first in this way & claiming an FFA & proposing the highest OW grade ever definitely brought the naysayers out which is no surprise. Do you understand now bjj? As for the grade spray factor, well that's just my opinion -hardly an insecurity ego thing, maybe you're projecting cuz u can't find a partner??

I thought it was cool that they came back & did it again placing their own gear, I'm sure they're happy they did too.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 22, 2013 - 06:22pm PT

I bet those two never pounded in a Big-Bro to the point of destruction on a wyde crack

Only one guy 's done that, that I know of...

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Feb 22, 2013 - 06:24pm PT

Jaybro, please tell us how he did this, what is the story?

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 22, 2013 - 06:25pm PT

With a hammer. I've never really understood his story. Though he did own up to it on this forum. And apologize to mojede, even.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 22, 2013 - 10:45pm PT

pelut espania very cool that you have the wide stoke on!

as a very dear friend of mine says: "climb the wyde with pride!"

Pete and Tom had the opportunity to climb a tick list of the hardest overhanging roof-like offwidths that boggles the mind... essentially everything in the desert at Indian Creek and at Vedauwoo... this was unfortunately not recorded on video, aside from the FFA of Century Crack (or is it the FA? in the end) their epic journey to the states was a major accomplishment.

Whatever the grade of Century Crack they assigned, they are among a very few number of climbers who could actually even assign a grade, having done everything... I'm sure that the next ascent won't have much argument with their assignment.

From my perspective, they showed what determination and training can do, Pamela Pack is also an awesome OW climber who trains hard to be able to accomplish the climbs she has done... also with a huge determination. They should be an inspiration to all climbers, that is, they work very hard to accomplish their goals, to push their discipline.

Climber's who criticize whether or not those climbs are as hard as their rated grades can go out and repeat them and then actually have an informed opinion. It's as simple as that... can you do it?

Being able to train that hard is a rare ability, and it doesn't last forever... we should celebrate those of us who so dedicate themselves, and celebrate their accomplishments too.