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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 27, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Is that 5.7??? I might get on it. looks cruiser....
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Loose Rocks
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Is this the same as the segment presented in RR7 tour?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Bluering as the first responder?
This thing has legs.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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WideBoyz.
Communists.
Throbbing Gristle.
The crux of Radness.
Can't wait!!!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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Is that 5.7? A Mt. Woodson 5.8!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Thier solo of Trench Warfare ranks high.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:39am PT
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Is this the same as the segment presented in RR7 tour?
This is a much longer version and much better, more cohesive, more of a story, more fun. it shows much more of the boys actually climbing the route. Pam's not in the Kendal version, which is a shame.
But yeah, I'm in it, which makes it worth seeing......;-)
None of the versions have much of the incredible scenery and landscape, which is the main reason to deal with the neck-destroying, kidney-pounding drive to get way the hell out on the White Rim Trail into the heart of Canyonlands. But what do I know.
But maybe climbing under a huge roof is what it is, a sort of outdoor caving by mutant Brits who were stupid enough to train indoors for 2 whole years for a climb they'd never even seen and genius enough, hungry enough, talented enough to actually pull it off, right under the noses of the locals--the hardest offwidth, by far, in the world. Ouch!
Crusher
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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The coincidence IS quite striking.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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Been looking forward to this ever since their trip out here.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Can't wait to view this!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Nov 28, 2012 - 04:08am PT
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I don't know, $24 can buy a lot of porn.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:56am PT
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I like the training thing he built in his basement. Hopefully the rock gyms will have these someday.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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....Rock Porn. Worth viewing I'm sure, can't wait.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 28, 2012 - 09:29am PT
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5.7+, Bluering.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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I watched it on reel rock, only 10 minutes long...
another regretful purchase from reel rock...
the honnold sections was good, 30 mins long
This is the full length film, not the Reel Rock thingy. Here is some more info from their website about the actual movie:
Additional Information
FORMAT Download, DVD
RUN TIME 50mins
EXTRAS 50mins
RESOLUTION 1280×720
FILE SIZE 2.2GB
DOWNLOAD FILE TYPE .MOV, H.264
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Nov 28, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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I've only got a 2 minute and 800x600 attention span.
There's a 1GB file limit as well.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
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great story,the Wide exposed, crusher recommended, excellent film! I've seen it already but just bought a copy for friendly viewing with the hordes that camp on my porch,
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 28, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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Might watch it this week. It was ok during REEL rock, but probably a lot better in longer version. What a story...
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 28, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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Some 'splainin' to do about porn: "What's this charge for $24.63 to 'Hot Aches Productions'?"
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
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Not climbing porn! There is some great footage, for sure, with some earthy grunting, but there's much more going on, on a number of levels.
For instance there's a great interview with Bob Scarpelli where he talks about the "craft" of the seasoned offwidth climber that is hidden under the brutal physicality of the effort involved.
But the wide boys had almost no wide experience; they just trained indoors for two years and became so strong they hoped they could do the hardest offwidths. And this paid off. They told me, at one point far into their trip, they were bored with the "merely" vertical fare at Indian Creek. They were so strong that they could master any possible wide technique; there was not a vertical offwidth anywhere that would pose much of a challenge.
So, since they had no apprenticeship, no grounding in years of weekend after weekend wallowing up wide moderates at Vedauwoo of Indian Creek, where is their "craft"?
Perhaps Bob had it wrong?
Watch the movie, think it through, figure it out.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 28, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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Shanti ain't banging wyde slots in this one?
Pfft.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 28, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
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No, It's you BAILING, Locker!!!!
hee hee hee. . .
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Nov 28, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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I saw the shorter version at RR7, it was WAY FUN and these chaps made a few old timers take notice.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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got it downloaded last night... watch it tonight...
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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Looking forward to your review Russ!
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 29, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
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I watched it and enjoyed the film. However, IMO, seemed unfinished in several aspects and definitely fell short of any award winning flick. My wife felt that the film missed a 'human' aspect about what these boyz did for a living; were they pros, bums or worked jobs? The only thing that had a thread to this was the interview of the wife of one of the boyz. I felt like mentioned up-thread that when they initially failed/flailed when they came to the US, there could have been a bit more of overcoming that hurdle, that progression and also more on the routes they did do. On the Century Crack it really didn't show the true 'brutality' of it (I guess I wanted to see more detail). As far as the pre-placed pro vs trad on sight dilemma, I think these boyz set themselves up for the style criticism by not setting their bar high enough (really!). What I mean is that they should have expected to follow local ethics and traditions if they wanted to gain the respect of their peers. (edit: in the film they obviously felt the pressure and 'need' to 'do it right.')
 ec
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Bump for more takes on this flick...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 01:55am PT
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Chuck Pratt was reported to have proclaimed on a trip to the desert southwest, while looking out over the sandstone cliffs "this is the future of American crack climbing."
In his article "A View from Deadhorse Point," Ascent 1970, he wrote
"Southern Utah contains landscapes so alien to anything in our experience that we feel that we are traveling on the moon.... areas where ancient varieties of sandstone have congealed like damp soot into formations so grotesque and fragile that climbing is out of the question: much of this country is for the eye only - great reefs of crimson rock, scalloped and capped with foam, stretch across vast areas of the desert plain like waves frozen in time at the instant before breaking."
And now, it's hard to believe, 47 years after Pratt took in that view one of the most difficult crack climbs in the world is done in that "oceanic expanse of crumbling sandstone..." Perhaps it's appropriate that Pratt would have that vision, being among the first masters of Yosemite crack climbing, and the author of legendary lines that remain worthy goals.
In that time we could see the progress in technique and hardware and determination to find the key to unlocking these climbs and this kind of climbing. The expansion beyond the fishbowl that is Yosemite to unlikely locations, Woodson, Vedauwoo, and in the Southwest, Indian Creek and beyond.
And there is the modern recurrence of interest in offwidth which has seen an amazing set of young climbers who have trained hard and paid their dues, and reaped the rewards in that they have pushed forward into this frontier of climbing.
There is a rich history to tell which leads up to an accomplishment like Century Crack, and perhaps that story will be told one day.
The Wide Boyz movie is a great retelling of the tale of these dedicated climbers who trained hard in the UK to accomplish an impossible dream. I truly enjoyed it, obviously the training techniques were familiar even if what I know and have done doesn't come close to accomplishing that the level of fitness. This isn't unusual among the best young climbers in this particular game, as everyone knows OW requires this sort of preparation.
It was great to see the "old guys" talking heads, and while I have no doubt that Scarpelli sees OW as the "Sweet Science" of rock climbing, I don't quite see it that way, though the brutality is there, it is self inflicted, and that is the result of individual desire. Everyone has a different take.
The climbing sequences is quite amazing, but perhaps it has become too easy to sit in a chair and drink a cool one and watch these amazing performances on stunning video, but their effort is recognizable to anyone who has struggled successfully in a wide crack for distance, and usually a distance much shorter than that incredible pitch.
It was great to hear of the emotional release that Tom and Pete felt, we didn't really get to see it expressed, perhaps a bit of famous British reserve... and as to why they thought it impossible, well it is important to recognize that "impossible" is usually a word that comes out of a history of experience and attempts, Steve Haston among them, and while "impossible" comes up, there is a lot of wise advise and teaching that goes on to prepare to do something impossible.
More impressive is learning that someone went out and did something "impossible" and didn't know it at the time... because no one else knew it either and no pronouncement could be made before the fact. And then there are those impossible deeds that no one else is party to.
Given the setting of this climb, Century Crack, in the context of the history of crack climbing and in the resurgence of OW, the amazing climbs on Tom and Pete's list which they worked through very quickly, the many other players on the scene who have upped the whole game, the accomplishment which we get to witness lacks the background to really get the viewer to appreciate it. And one wonders now that having been shown the way, the "how," that gets you to Tom and Pete's level, what does the future hold?
I'd say it is a good video in the sense of the modern climbing video vernacular. But it could have been a lot better.
"To gain any lasting worth from what the desert has to offer, we had to learn to put our pitons and ropes away and go exploring in silence, keeping our eyes open. It wasn't easy. We wasted a lot of time climbing until we got the knack."
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Nov 30, 2012 - 08:30am PT
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Wide Boyz: Awesome.
As a young pup in the OW game, it's good to see that this particular form of art is not reserved for the more... experienced. Having said that, I know I have nowhere near the level of commitment needed to climb anything meaningful to anyone else. But damn if I ain't having fun!
Ed, it would seem that you and I have similar desires when it comes to great films, not merely good ones. Which climbing films would fit the bill for you?
Lasti
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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I'm not sure, I'll review the list, but, setting the bar high, a video that could be accessible to the general public, that pulls them in and has them their with protagonists, is true to the climbing community, and necessarily addresses the question we never can answer even to our ourselves: "why do this?"
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Great review Russ! Your are right about the work they put in. That's their craft, putting in so much honest effort training, directed intelligently, over two long years.
Hard to see on the climbing footage as they make it all look easy. On the extra movie bits they hold some kind of clinic on offwidth techniques, set up a OW roofcrack. They sail effortlessly across the beast; everyone else who tries is struggling, can barely hang from the crack let alone make a single move.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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My review, copied and pasted from the Source of All Things WIde:
Just watched the film yesterday, fantastic!! I think this is the first climbing film I have ever paid for, such was my anticipation.
I have to say I loved every bit of the film. The story, the climbing footage, the interviews. I will echo that I was a bit disappointed to not see more climbs featured in the movie. The ticklist was so legendary, I would have liked to have seen more of those routes. I haven't been to Veudawoo and would love to see more of that spot. This thing was solid entertainment and I only wish it was twice as long!
Very refreshing not to have all the whooping and hollering prominent in American sport and bouldering vids.
My non climber gf watched the thing with us and loved it as well. The commentary from Tom's wife had her crying with laughter at times, I think she can relate. Was funny when Jaybro popped up and she said 'Hey, isn't that the wheat grass enema fan we had thanksgiving with?"
Lowlights: She seemed to think Tom was cuter than Pete. Bad news for me, since I look more like Pete.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Russ, Ed, Caught--thanks for your entertaining, articulate, intelligent reviews.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Downloading it right now! Great sunday afternoon activity when you cant climb!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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I got it (just now) instantly.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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it took a while for me, and it kept getting interrupted in some mysterious way, eventually I shut everything off, suspended backups launched the down load and when to sleep...
that was midnight, apparently by 2:49am it had downloaded completely
the file is 2.6 GB
so I was getting an average download speed of 256 kB/s
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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You gotta have "wide" bandwidth.......
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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That is to say, the email came instantly. The download is taking about an hour.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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check your spam folder. you might have mistyped your email address too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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"Wheat grass enema"?
& inverts?
Well, bottoms up!
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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And it is definitely an awesome film.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Ha Ha Jaybro!!
We were victimized once again by the WideFetish word filter. I typed "vegetarian"
Got us good on that one!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Ah yes! The "cloven hoof," "secret handshake," rob halford," "strenuous stretching in a leotard," affect, strikes again!
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Mine was instant. Probably the spam filter haha.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
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b u m
p
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hillbillyfire14
climber
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It's a shame the film doesn't bring pam into the story. Kind of ridiculous that she was told not to touch this climb while the brits were working it. At least the RR7 version had a short clip of her.
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Loose Rocks
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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I went old school and got the DVD in the mail. It arrived in less than 7 days. Fast shipping considering it came from the other side of the planet.
I liked the segments that described the back history prior to the trip. I liked that they discussed what led them to climb together, what spurred the quest for the wide cracks, and how they both first found out about the Century and their feelings about it. The details of the initial contact with Steve and how he found out about the crack and his work on it was a welcomed addition. You can get a sense of the history on it. The segment describing training and how militant they were about it was also a gem. The discussion on what drove them back to lead the CC without the pre-placed gear and how they felt about it was also great bit of the story. These sections were all definitely deeper that what was presented for RR7 as they should be. Exactly what I was expecting and what I wanted from the video.
I do wish that some of the RR7 commentary would have made the cut here. The segment in RR7 that had all the current notable players in the wide arena talking about “who the hell” and ending with “that kind of pissed me off”. Also the non-climbing sections during their travels in RR7 were better. I know that they probably wanted to avoid a rehash of the travel here since it was footage that was already used in RR7 but I felt that the commentary really should have made the cut here.
The main segment was mostly about the Century Crack. I get that it was the objective of the trip. I could understand why they would cut everything out from RR7 and leave it bare bones CC. It was meant to be a short. In this full feature I felt that they left out too much of the other stuff. I can understand that the producers wanted it to be about CC so in the main body of the video they glossed over the other stuff. This was very similar to RR7. They did give a couple of the notable climbs a tiny bit more time. I felt that it wasn’t enough. It probably would have fragmented the story too much if they gave those other climbs more time in the main body. There was however an opportunity to give it all back in the extras.
The main section was really good. I was a bit disappointed that there wasn’t more in the extras. That section could have been so much better. It might have been that I had already seen RR7 but I don’t think that was completely it.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Seen it, great stuff.
Thought I was seeing things when the film mentioned widefetish.com as a place for some of their inspiration.
I think it was one of the pieces in the Western Gold (or maybe it was ReelRock) DVD I got a week ago or so.
Those guys put the wide into their system and seemed to have accomplished everything they set out to.
Inspiring, to say the least.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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It's a shame the film doesn't bring pam into the story. Kind of ridiculous that she was told not to touch this climb while the brits were working it. At least the RR7 version had a short clip of her.
That true?
They were only working it for 24 hours.....
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chris alstrin
Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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It's a shame the film doesn't bring pam into the story. Kind of ridiculous that she was told not to touch this climb while the brits were working it. At least the RR7 version had a short clip of her.
This is not true.
I'll chime in here. I made the film with Paul, Tom and Pete and was out shooting the boys on Century Crack during both ascents. Do you honestly think either of those two humble Brits would say, "this route is ours, you can't climb it"?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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Just sounds like more Wyde Drama created by the usual gang of suspects ;-)
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Dec 11, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Watched my son's copy last night. Hey, that was fun! A cheery and preposterous route, for sure -- great stuff. As a certified geezer, I appreciated the non-heinous music, too. I wondered too about what these cats do for a living, and appreciated the interview with Ms. Tom. So thanks, all. Looking down at the shoes from above reminded me of my first roped adventures in 1960 or so in Western Colorado, way out in the sticks. We had a broad sandstone blowout cave near the hopeless place where I grew up, and it had a crack/chimney that separated the front of the cave from the mother rock behind it, so you could straddle the crack and peer down 30 feet or so to the slope of damp sand that floored the cave. Seems like the topside expression of the crack was 50 feet long, maybe -- been a long time. Anyway, two friends and I -- all of us had heard of the antics of the Kor crowd hundreds of miles to the east -- were mad for the climbing scene of which we had no clue. So we bought a goldline rope from the Gerry catalog, tied one end to a shaky juniper, and took turns rappelling down through the widest part of the crack to the sand far below. Horrible! Freehanging body rappels on goldline! Nauseating spinning as the sawblade crawled over our bodies! Horrible! Seeing the Century crack movie reminded of that place, though I don't think our crack was quite so long. Maybe I should do a road trip to Colorado this spring and try hanging upside down by my size 13s.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 11, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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Does that violate your restraining order, Moj?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Dec 12, 2012 - 09:23am PT
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Hey Jaybro,
You listen too much to small brained folk who yank your chain--then believe them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 12, 2012 - 10:03am PT
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I'll take that as a yes. You opened the door :)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 16, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Ed, I think you certainly finish out there with the big question.
What does one do after having "conquered the world"? Cry, as Alexander the Great had when he reached the end of the known vanquished world? Has the journey ended forever, has the Campbellian Seeker, now atoned, return home for good? "When the world is not enuff", what then?
When last we looked, our problem is partly for lack of resources, it seems at first blush. Can our heros, the Dynamic Duo, find more Hard or is there even any more of such climbing? Will Crusher come, etriers in hand, to the rescue again for his countrymen? Will Fran Crusher find other big offwidth out in the Cosmos with her special Geophysical Powers as a last ditch move to save Offwidth Humanity and Western Offwidth Civilization?
In all seriousness though, what does one do after such a tour?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 16, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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There's plenty more out there....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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In all seriousness though, what does one do after such a tour?
Have a few pints and find the next dragon to slay.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 16, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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Or, Russ, Is It Time to Explore The Mussy Nebula? Recent investigations may have revealed your clandestine preparations....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I think to answer Ed's question, the two new shining young lights that come to my mind are Russ Fascente who onsighted The Mayor (mostly on bigbros) Slither and Scream, the Dragon's Lair, (again, mostly bros) Sidewinder and Sorcerers' crossing in the space of a year and Matt Keuhl who also onsighted Slither and Scream and has been putting up his own Wideness in redrocks. Both are in their twenties and just coming into their formative years
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bought it awhile back & thought the climbing, filming, & editing were all top notch! Well put together & worth the $$. My only gripes were, like others have said- more footage of other routes they did! Give up some extras or somethin'
The other thing, & I think the reason this amazing effort maybe hasn't been fully realized by the community is because they chose to grade it, neither of them had climbed close to the grade proposed in any style. Leaving some mystery there, or calling it 5.14? Would have been a more respectable tactic perhaps, especially since an offwidth grade has never been proposed anywhere near their grade on century crack. Kinda like Fred Rouhling proposing 15b before 15a had been confirmed or that other dude who claimed 15c way back.. People will always have a hard time believing stuff like that, much like the Rouhling example I use there was also controversy over the style the wide boys used on the FFA which also sends any great climbing feat into a tailspin of speculation just as I'm doing here. Regardless, I think it was an awesome route & story & to see how dedicated the boys were to training & preparing was truly motivating & inspiring. The interviews with the wife are hilarious!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Except that they were seasoned climbers before this that had both climbed 5.13. And I understand Peter has unrepeated gritstone FA's.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's cool Jay, I didn't know that about Pete & Tom as I only know them from the movie. No disrespect & I'm not questioning their abilities either-Just speculating as to why it wasn't a bigger deal in the mainstream & how grades or style can sometimes can taint a magnificent effort in the eyes of the masses. I think it's cool when unrepeated routes at the highest end of their particular style don't hold a specific grade, or the FAist doesn't particularly care about the grade, it can add the humble idea of mystery to a route.That's just me though & as an aside I also have no idea personally what I'm talking about since the difference between 5.13+ & 5.14+ for me is exactly the same= impossible! Again, awesome movie,
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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I bet those two never pounded in a Big-Bro to the point of destruction on a wyde climb...
...or bolted beside a wide crack either--probably clipped 'em since they were there, though :-(
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 22, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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"Just speculating as to why it wasn't a bigger deal in the mainstream & how grades or style can sometimes can taint a magnificent effort in the eyes of the masses."
What was wrong with their 'style' exactly?
As for the grade, who the hell cares? People can grade routes anything they want while they wait for someone else to step up and try and confirm. The film has pretty much every wide specialist out there admitting they have ZERO chance of repeating it, with one in particular seeming especially butt-hurt that these two brits had the nerve to come over here to take on the challenge in the first place. Serious insecurity and ego on display.
Those two dudes are rad as hell, IMO.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
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Anyone did try Century crack after Wide Boys? -
this would make end of discussion about the grades ...
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Feb 22, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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I nominate you Alexey. Your Arch Rock marathon seems like the perfect warm-up for Century.
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Feb 22, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:19am PT
I bet those two never pounded in a Big-Bro to the point of destruction on a wyde climb...
...or bolted beside a wide crack either--probably clipped 'em since they were there, though :-(
What American dogs did this? Mi and mi amigos want to climb the century and place all amigos on root with the led next year and train now with no light in cellar. Viva Espania!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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What was wrong with their 'style' exactly?
I didn't say anything was wrong with their style, only that they used one that has been controversial for years. On the FFA the gear was pre placed, which some people would find debatable, that's all. I could really care less about how they climbed it , but climbing it first in this way & claiming an FFA & proposing the highest OW grade ever definitely brought the naysayers out which is no surprise. Do you understand now bjj? As for the grade spray factor, well that's just my opinion -hardly an insecurity ego thing, maybe you're projecting cuz u can't find a partner??
I thought it was cool that they came back & did it again placing their own gear, I'm sure they're happy they did too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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I bet those two never pounded in a Big-Bro to the point of destruction on a wyde crack
Only one guy 's done that, that I know of...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Jaybro, please tell us how he did this, what is the story?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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With a hammer. I've never really understood his story. Though he did own up to it on this forum. And apologize to mojede, even.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 22, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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pelut espania very cool that you have the wide stoke on!
as a very dear friend of mine says: "climb the wyde with pride!"
Pete and Tom had the opportunity to climb a tick list of the hardest overhanging roof-like offwidths that boggles the mind... essentially everything in the desert at Indian Creek and at Vedauwoo... this was unfortunately not recorded on video, aside from the FFA of Century Crack (or is it the FA? in the end) their epic journey to the states was a major accomplishment.
Whatever the grade of Century Crack they assigned, they are among a very few number of climbers who could actually even assign a grade, having done everything... I'm sure that the next ascent won't have much argument with their assignment.
From my perspective, they showed what determination and training can do, Pamela Pack is also an awesome OW climber who trains hard to be able to accomplish the climbs she has done... also with a huge determination. They should be an inspiration to all climbers, that is, they work very hard to accomplish their goals, to push their discipline.
Climber's who criticize whether or not those climbs are as hard as their rated grades can go out and repeat them and then actually have an informed opinion. It's as simple as that... can you do it?
Being able to train that hard is a rare ability, and it doesn't last forever... we should celebrate those of us who so dedicate themselves, and celebrate their accomplishments too.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 23, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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What is the next hardest graded OW in the world after century crack & where? Oh yeah & who climbed it?!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 26, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Accepted, Jaybro.
Not my mess, I'm just a bystander invited along for a ride I didn't know that would take place...
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| Messages 1 - 77 of total 77 in this topic |
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