Patrick Edlinger


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Boulder climber
Nov 20, 2012 - 12:20pm PT

Did anyone so make climbing as music? We loved you Patrick.

Nov 20, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Fontainebleau - JA Martin L'etrave &#40;7b&#41; opened by P.E.
Fontainebleau - JA Martin L'etrave (7b) opened by P.E.
Credit: 7ableau - Photo Gerard Kosicki
Credit: 7ableau

Nov 20, 2012 - 03:14pm PT

That translation upthread, that he died falling down the stairs, has to be someones idea of a joke. IE
"Reports that he died in a fall from a stairway in his house have not been confirmed to date..."


Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 20, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
Patrick Edlinger Leading Baiser Sanglant - Verdon &#40;Old Skool 6b+&#41;
Patrick Edlinger Leading Baiser Sanglant - Verdon (Old Skool 6b+)
Credit: Blakey
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 20, 2012 - 06:05pm PT

"» caduto da una ripida scala di casa, battendo la testa e procurandosi una fatale emorragia"

(Google translation: He fell from a steep staircase of the house, hitting his head and by getting a fatal hemorrhage).

Social climber
An Oil Field
Nov 20, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
At the video bar in Chamonix, they would constantly play tapes of Edlinger soloing really long routes in the Verdon.

He was super handsome and well built. If he had a good sex drive, those movies alone must have had him rolling in girls.

He was so smooth soloing. I bouldered with him one day at an area outside of Chamonix. He was really good, but not amazing. He could take a route to his absolute limit and drop the rope, though.

He was like Bachar. An amazing soloist. Damn, but the dude was handsome in his glory days.

RIP to a visionary. Nice fellow as well.

Trad climber
Nov 21, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Patrick Edlinger was supposed to be at the mountain film festival happening in Grenoble now; instead, he will be honoured and remembered tomorrow evening at this same festival.
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
Nov 21, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
I didnít attend the Snowbird competition, but heard so much about it, from so many people, that itís almost as if I were there. The best US climbers were just astounded by his performance. Here are two joking responses that stand out in my memory, but they convey the impact of Edlingerís mastery that day.

Henry Barber: ďIím just glad they didnít have competitions like that in my day.Ē

John Long to some younger climbers: ď We were the best free climbers in the world. I canít believe you let the frogs beat you.Ē

Adieu, Monsieur Edlinger; sincere condolences to his family and friends.

Trad climber
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
I dig this: (from;

"Edlinger also launched climbing development at the great crag above CeŁse, France, creating numerous spicy routes with widely spaced bolts. Asked years later why he didnít put in more bolts, Edlinger said it was simply because he and his partners didnít have enough money. They wanted to put up lots of routes, and thus they had to ration their bolts."


Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Nov 21, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
A tragic loss of a true visionary- RIP Patrick...

Hobart, Australia
Nov 22, 2012 - 02:52am PT
I was at Snowbird to see friends and to cheer on A5's only ever cash-sponsored climber (Yabo, whom we provided with a few bucks for travel and some t-shirts). I must say, I was a bit skeptical at the time, as a "trad" climber (before the distinction was coined), of the idea of climbing as competition--until I saw Edlinger pull off that final route--the suspense had been building and all comers had failed in the last few metres. As Edlinger approached the final stretch, suddenly everyone was awestuck--he floated it. The instantaneous reaction of the crowd was palpable, like a great magician pulling off his most amazing performance. It was then that I realised the times were a changin', and the focus on climbing as the advance of the technical, rather than of the bold, was the future.

Of course, Edlinger was also intensely respected prior to the comp for his grace on hard bold climbs and solos, as the French counterpart to Bachar.

Sad news, indeed.

Mountain climber
San Diego
Nov 22, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
I'm just so sad to know that Patrick is no longer with us on this side of eternity. He was a true inspiration.

I cherish my copy of Life by Fingetips. I first watched it while drinking a beer in the bar in Chamonix. I was stunned. His climbing is perfection. I wanted to free climb as smooth and as perfect as PE did. He turned climbing into art. No doubt he made the women turn and look again and again.

I'm sorry to hear that he suffered from depression, and alcoholism. So many do silently. I wish it weren't so. We need each other.

Hope to see PE again as well as many others that I admire and miss, on the other side of eternity some day. Not too soon though, Hashem Adonai Elohim willing. Have Yeshua HaMashaich's work to do.

I have a subtitled English version of this . . .

La vie aux bout des doigts [Patrick Edlinger]


Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 22, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
One of the problems with depression is that it screws with sleep patterns and
the shadows lengthen further. Often, just to get a good night sleep, people will drink copiously, which only compounds both the sleep disorder and the depression.

If it can beat an icon like PE down then the whole business needs to be dragged out into the open and reviewed. I can't tell you how many people I have known in the adventure world who have roughly followed the same tragic and debilitating cycle.

Celebrate his life and achievements, certainly, but keep an eye out for friends that might not see a way out and get crushed to dust by addictions and desperate attempts to self medicate. It's a killer - of even the best of us.


wayne burleson

Amherst, MA
Nov 22, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
Well said Largo, thanks

Trad climber
Nov 23, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Another hero gone. RIP

Big Wall climber
Nov 24, 2012 - 05:08am PT
Into the Blue. Dr. Long
Climbing With PE In The Gorge!
Climbing With PE In The Gorge!
Credit: sunnyside

Big Wall climber
Nov 24, 2012 - 11:15am PT
Gorge du Verdon
La Palud Backyard
La Palud Backyard
Credit: sunnyside

Sport climber
Nov 26, 2012 - 10:45am PT
The mind

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
Sure wish I spoke French. Or at least could read it. My loss I'm sure.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:17am PT
The NY Times published his obituary on Monday. My condolences to his family and friends on their loss.
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