Patrick Edlinger

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 184 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Jun 18, 2017 - 06:15am PT
Nice one Jim! ^^^^^ Good to see your keen insight lives on.
Bump for Patrick, he was an inspiration!
Cabo Noli, Dancing Dalle
Cabo Noli, Dancing Dalle
Credit: Happy Cowboy
Big Penny attempts a Edlinger route near Finale, Italy. On a tight line she shows how far apart the holds were...I knew of this route as the first 8a in Italy when we visited in 91'
A picture does tell a story, we traveled by touring bike-the simplicity of "euro sport climbing"- thus my bicycling shoe shot, and I notice my FROG chaulk bag a hangin off her!!!!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jun 18, 2017 - 08:32am PT
An Edlinger ice tool.....something like a Jim Whittaker rock climbing shoe or a Warren Harding alcohol free red wine.

Nice
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jun 18, 2017 - 09:15am PT
Struck me as a little mean-spirited.

The truth sets some free and scars the rest.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jun 18, 2017 - 09:40am PT
What is humorous take to some people is disrespectful, offensive, tasteless, inflammatory, belittling, non-pc, racist, or insensitive to others.

I appreciated Jim's comment as both funny and insightful.
BJ

climber
Jun 18, 2017 - 10:40am PT
Donini: An Edlinger ice tool.....something like a Jim Whittaker rock climbing shoe or a Warren Harding alcohol free red wine.

Clinker: Nice

Struck me as a little mean-spirited.

Not like he made a comment about a beer-bong or a cork-screw
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 9, 2018 - 09:56am PT
Mid-summer, "Le'Blond", bump ` `
'






ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
Climbing moves may have gotten simpler and less fancy as difficulty has increased but that there is about as pretty as it ever got. Those high steps to both feet and the incredibly long reach, over and over again.

Wish he was still here; and climbing.

If you don't watch the whole movie just skip to the very end for his bare footed free solo.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 9, 2018 - 12:57pm PT

Patrick Edlinger left a deep impression. Here as told by Norwegian climber Geir Harald Samuelsen:

"A late evening in 1984: The Norwegian Broadcasting Center is showing the film "With life hanging from the fingertips". The film shows Patrick Edlinger, a strong, blond French climber with a headband who climbs without a rope 200 meters above the ground on a high limestone wall in Buoux, Provence. A fourteen year old kid from Hurumlandet, Norway, is sitting in front of the TV screen. He is about to be seriously shocked. And after a while also inspired, though he still don't know. Edlinger's stoical, uncompromising, indian and nearly mystical creature, the characteristic well schooled climbing style with high footmoves and turnout, his white hands, his own laconic French voiceover, the light blue, nearly transparent limestone, the wind, breath, the sky. The soundtrack of the film turning dry, creaking, cold, minimalistic, the courage close to pure madness. Everything about the film is deeply fascinating for the 14 year old kid and the images are burned into his memory and body. He sits as stuck to the screen. He is able to set the new VHS machine on record. After one week he has seen the film around 70 times."
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 11, 2018 - 10:48am PT
One of the amazing things about that moment when PE cleared the roof at Snowbird was how, as he did, a little shaft of sunlight hit just that upper part of the wall like god was spotlighting the finale.

RIP Patrick
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 11, 2018 - 11:27am PT
A lot of the earlier YouTube links are no longer active.
Here is an important one:

deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Jul 11, 2018 - 11:59am PT
Still inspiring, more so than much of what is presented today! Wow. Thanks for posting, Roy.

xCon

Social climber
909
Jul 11, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
didn't he give barber a thumbs up right at that very moment tv?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 11, 2018 - 12:00pm PT

As a collector it is cool to see that in the film "La Vie Au Bout Des Doigts" he is climbing in a pair of these Dolomite shoes:

Dolomite Patrick Edlinger, early model
Dolomite Patrick Edlinger, early model
Credit: Marlow
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jul 11, 2018 - 12:01pm PT
I remember some reports of him when he did his first US trip.
What were the locals' impressions of him? Did he adjust to the rock quickly?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 11, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
I met him on one of those earlier trips, I'm thinking it might have been early to mid 80s. One of Bachar's favorite climbs in the Meadows was a crack called Love Supreme, named after the John Coltrane album. I didn't see Patrick working it, and for all I know he flashed it, but I think not. He was, after all, an excellent on-sight climber. That's the kind of detail John probably would've remembered. Keeping score, you know. Patrick had just come back from that route, we all knew who he was, I said hello to him and in an almost shy way, with downcast eyes he simply, humbly said bonjour, and that's about all I got out of him.

I had occasion to hang around Edlinger a second time in the early 90s when he and Maurice were visiting Colorado. At that time they were working on a film project. I mentioned earlier in this thread that Paul Sibley, who was working with them on that, and on whose property I rented space for a sewing shop, reported that Patrick could literally layback up and down the notorious Sphinx Crack in the South Platte. Patrick was pretty self-contained, generally on a mission, and I had little interaction with him, and came to know his sidekick Maurice much better.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 12, 2018 - 10:39am PT

The competition at Snowbird 1988 - here as seen in Rock & Ice:

Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Snowbird 1988
Snowbird 1988
Credit: Marlow
Tim Jim

climber
North
Jul 12, 2018 - 03:51pm PT
Edgeclinger swings tools

Before I ever climbed I used to borrow La Vie au bout des Doigts from the library in Regina SK. Awesome.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 13, 2018 - 10:28am PT
I imagine not many of us back in the early 80s when he was breaking news understood that Patrick, pronounced pah-treek, dabbled in alpinism?

The interview below is quite good. He mentions having done the Dru north face in winter, in a day, with Patrick Berhault:



 Marlow: thanks much for all of your scans!
I've been feeding source material to a fellow who is working up a book on the history of competition climbing in America, and this kind of stuff is invaluable to the task.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 13, 2018 - 12:26pm PT
This short tribute is easy on the eyes and ears:




Now, in my earliest grade school years I had lots of French class and a single semester in high school, so if anyone says oł est le chat, I'll be dialed in.
Other than that, though it's all Greek to me, I suspect this might be worthwhile:

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Jul 13, 2018 - 01:48pm PT
AWESOME![THNX - MARLOW]Lynne & Dave,The Blonds from the Gunks
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
It is so fitting, In memory, RIP & Berg-Heil! LAHHN-MAHHN
A PICTURE OF OUR VERY OWN DAVE LANMAN "LE BLOND" OF THE GUNKS:
& THAT IT IS A VERY RARE PICTURE OF DAVE IN FLIGHT!
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
FLY ON DAVE !
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