Crack Gloves


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Truckee, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:36am PT
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."

You gonna follow that guy's example? That worked out pretty well for him.

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Get a bulk box of Kendall Curity 1" tape for her for Xmas and she can make a thin second skin tape glove every time she climbs.

Unless they've changed there sizing since I bought some 10 yrs ago, the smallest ones are huge. Jammies are like climbing with stick rubber sandals on your hands. For the same reason that loose shoes are annoying, having a piece of rubber slide back and forth even a little was even more frustrating than the girth.

Gym climber
United States
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
I am just ordering some from my friend in Europe, if you want a pair or 2, let me know. I think they come out to $35 each depending if I get enough, due to the shipping charges. I am in Orange County.

Trad climber
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Can Largo pipe up about his rig for Paisano overhang? Stories of welders gloves with lots of tape. Is this true?

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Technique is king, but sometimes ya gotta tape!! Fifty years of crack climbing have left my hands a mass of scar tissue. Curtis is the best!

But what Murcy said early in this thread, there are times when gloves work. I too like the ones he mentioned, but they tear. Thats what happened to Em's. it's not a perfect world out there.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
I've come to prefer tape gloves over things like hand jammies. Instead of velcro closure its a simple piece of tape to close the wrist. I usually keep reusing tape gloves, adding tape (and peeling remnanants) as needed, till they start to stink. Then toss and make a new pair ;-)


Trad climber
Butte, America
Jun 21, 2013 - 02:20am PT
I only use tape when blood makes the climb slippery...

Credit: mojede

Jun 2, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
Happy to report that can find Ocun Crack Gloves at They are in stock as of the date of this post and we have all 4 sizes, $35 USD.

Hope this is helpful.

*Full disclosure I am co-owner of We are a small company run out of Vancouver, BC & happy to be able to help out our fellow climbers with our small unique selection of climbing gear on our site.

Climb on!

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 2, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
Don't use crack gloves or tape gloves.....but I do tape. New tape job for each day, acts a bit like coffee to get me jump started.

Jun 2, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
I've been using the Ocun crack gloves for years now. For me they are way superior to tape gloves 95% of the time. I started using them for climbing down in Patagonia where its pretty helpful to have something covering your hands while jamming. Also they don't get wet like tape gloves and stay wet all day. You can also take them off and put them on in 15 seconds. This makes it easy to remove them at belays and put real gloves on. Often when its really cold I actually put them over my R1 hoody thumb catches which allows my hands to be insulated but I'm still able to jam pretty well.

For real hard thin hand cracks i probably wouldn't wear them and I actually find myself taking them off mid pitch. all I need is one good hand jam and I take them off with my teeth and put them down my shirt. and i've even put them back on mid pitch though it takes a stem or no-hands rest to do that.

I've also turned a few of my friends onto them. Colin Haley uses them as does Josh Wharton. Josh even wore them on the 2nd ascent of the North Twin in the Canadian rockies. I'd love it if somebody told him that the gloves were aid or that he should work on his technique.
Wharton on the North Twin wearing the Ocun's.  Photo by Jon Walsh
Wharton on the North Twin wearing the Ocun's. Photo by Jon Walsh
Credit: mikeyschaefer

and here is a pic of Kate Rutherford on a steep and hard 5.12 in the bugaboos wearing the Ocun gloves.

Cover of the spring Patagonia catalog
Cover of the spring Patagonia catalog
Credit: mikeyschaefer

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 2, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
Mikey, I've noticed that most who complain about gloves/tape being aid actually have climbed but it was BITD.

Trad climber
Northern California
Jun 2, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
Ocun gloves are way better than Hand Jammies imho. Tape is great but I"m concerned with how much trash I put into landfills. I save the tape for all day outside climbing and reserve the gloves for individual pitches and gym climbing.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 2, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
Daphne....tape makes a great fire starter.

Jun 2, 2014 - 02:29pm PT
I even had my days of talking down to tape. When I use to actually spend time in the Creek I never taped. I didn't need to. It felt so soft after spending all season in Yosemite.

I do agree with a lot of people that tape or crack gloves shouldn't be a substitution for good technique they should only be a compliment. But the reality is that takes a lot of miles and time.

Jun 2, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
Depending on which prototype OR decides on, and it should be a no-brainer, they will be coming out with a pair of crack gloves that I think will blow the doors off the competition.

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jun 2, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
My lady uses Ocun gloves... I just bought her another pair this morning but shhh! they're part of her birthday present. Their sizing is not favorable for ladies with very small hands. But they are pretty thin and form-fitting in latest design- with a good tight fit, they would be almost as slim as taping up, and less messy and wasteful. But taping would still give you the advantage when you need every bit of help possible.

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jun 2, 2014 - 03:48pm PT
back i.t.d i used condoms
to make my richard seem bigger.

he shoots,


nutagain this post is absolutely unrelated to your avatar,
bit'er ol' guy

the past
Jun 2, 2014 - 09:12pm PT

I wear 'em on my feet-



Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jun 2, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
I want some of those Ocuns . . . thanks mikey for verification. Nice work on your MC FA too by the way!

Trad climber
Jun 2, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
Pretty sure Reardon said something closer to:
"barefoot, chalkless, onsight soloing is climbing. everything else is compromise."

Naked is a nice touch, though. If it just has to be a naked, chalkless onsight to count as climbing, then I've done three pitches in my life.
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