Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 65 of total 65 in this topic |
ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
|
Ok ok...here is my man card.
Now that that is over...
I want to buy some of those crack gloves made of climbing rubber for my lady. Ive looked at a few types online but Im not sure what types are good for bad ass chicks who climb cracks.
|
|
ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
|
people keep telling me that if I have good technique and work the crack right, gloves aren't necessary...
so until then, I like my customized tape glove...less than $4 per pair...
are you and your lady taking up aid? ;)
cheers
LS
|
|
PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:33pm PT
|
Why not just tape?
Forget the tape gloves, just wrap the hands up. ;)
The problem with those types of gloves you are referring to is that they will inhibit your ability to get into thin hand cracks since they are relatively thick.
Try putting down a few layers on the backsides of the hands to add a little more comfort, then go for the wrap around.
I discourage tape gloves since they will become loose overtime with each use, which will become a hindrance when climbing thin hand cracks. I see this happen to so many people, then they wonder why crack climbing is so difficult.
|
|
murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
|
There are plenty of good uses for these gloves, including gym climbing and days when you need gloves for just one pitch or something. Taping is better for all sorts of reasons, but takes time and creates waste. Anyway maybe we can let the OP make that call and not do this all over again. :-)
The original Hand Jammies are fine, but the Ocun gloves are thinner and I think nicer.
http://www.ocun.cz/en/products/technical-aids/crackgloves.html
|
|
ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
|
what messes me up on thin crack far more than my custom tape gloves is poor foot technique...
having tried jammies, I've found my hands sweat too much in them, and that my tape gets in the way far far less.
but perhaps this is cause my hands tend toward the smaller size?
I know all my old skool friends would say, forget the jammies, and you'll get the technique faster...;) it kinda worked for me....
cheers
LS
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
|
I never liked the fit of the hand jammies. i just got a pair of the one's murcy showed above and they seem good - but I only use them in the gym, for convenience. Outside I just tape...
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
|
I like tape gloves. I can use the same tape gloves for a surprising long time until I rip out of a crack and I destroy a few finger loops.
With that said, we all use sticky rubber on our shoes. I see no problem with using hand jammies. I've used them and on the right crack size it's like aid climbing. The wrong crack size can put a reasonably difficult pitch out of reach for me.
|
|
Nate101
Trad climber
Aliso Viejo, CA
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
|
+1 for the Ocun. I love mine.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
|
what messes me up on thin crack far more than my custom tape gloves is poor foot technique...
My foot work sucks ass on thin stuff, especially finger cracks. Getting really annoying.
I usually tape and use hand jamies in the gym at times. My friend got me a pair of those for my birthday. I like tape the most, but since I sweat a lot I have to change them often since those gloves get nasty.
|
|
murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
|
In terms of sweat and tape, and just in terms of stickiness of tape, Kendall Curity porous tape is way better than other tape I have tried. Even sticks on your tips pretty well when you need that.
http://www.dmesupplygroup.com/ke3027.html
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
|
TAPE IS AID AND CHICKS DIG SCARS
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
|
My scarred up little butthole is hurt, knock it off. Im far from pure though. I work in healthcare too, I get gobis climbing, but never that bad. Just gotta bite the bullet and get your hands tough. By the time the hair on the back of your hands (not your palms, that will stay) is gone, youre skin is tough enough. If you tape, youll never get em tough. It helps your form when youre without tape, I think. Gotta pay more attention and milk into the good part of the jam.
That said, when I get older and my skin wont take it anymore, Ill be sportin some hand jammies or something.
|
|
OR
Trad climber
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
|
Is this a troll?
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
|
Buddha, are you still not ...ancient in age (like some of us)? My hands used to get tough but now the skin is just too fragile. Tape really helps. Not the case with his sweetie of course but at a certain point you don't distain the tape.
Captain - Never with basalt, of course. Goes without saying. And when are you coming to Cali?
|
|
Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
|
is this anything like aid climbing?
At least I've always been told that tape is aid…
Post OP Edit:
bad ass chicks who climb cracks.
 Hate to say it but bad ass chicks who climb cracks laugh at guys, or girls who wear those crack climbing gloves made f climbing rubber… Noamsain?
|
|
mountainlion
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
|
If rubber crack gloves take 2 grades off a climb are you supposed to feel as good about sending that 11d as you would if you had the jamming technique? How about just aid climbing the 11d with your gear? Why not just take a ladder or helicopter to the top...forget about challenging yourself or improving.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
|
edit: Oh, holy sh#t, mountainlion is in the tape is aid crowd? You guys can claim that retard as your own, I'll be taping up even more proudly, thank you very much.
ROFL +1. You say some funny stuff at times Jebus.
|
|
Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:04am PT
|
Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid.
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:04am PT
|
Dont lump me in with that martian
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:06am PT
|
climbing shoes=aid
|
|
chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:17am PT
|
Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid. Harvey did use to say sh#t like that. He acted like using any gear invented after 1955 was cheating.
Granite doesn't hurt my hands. I don't tape for anything but Indian Creek. Those cracks will grind your skin off.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:27am PT
|
I attached #3 camalots to a wire frame around my wrist which connect to my sticky rubber crack gloves, the frame goes thru the palm of glove & extends past the ends of my fingers so that they can hold the cam triggers while jamming, this way when I put my gloved hands in the crack I know that if the rubber or my poor technique doesn't hold that i can just relax my hands & the cams will. This is going to help my technique & pain tolerance undoubtedly. I did a 12a the other day in the rain & it felt like 5.8, I will likely be freesoling 5.13 handcracks & sponsored by spring & getting rich off this crack glove cam invention as well. I made a pair with yellow aliens as well for all those pesky finger locks that scratch my cuticles. I'm currently working on some skyhook crimper gloves as well for sportclimbers so you don't need to rely on finger strength so much or cutting your tips on sharp holds, the prototypes look good & many think that 16a will be possible in them.
|
|
ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 12:32am PT
|
I make my own rules. I used to have a system for marking guidebooks so Id know if I onsighted a climb or TRed it or fell...now I mark everything like Ive led it...my rules morph...
I can see using the rubber crack gloves for big routes where Id be aiding some of the route anyhow. They could really save time in this regard...if they work right.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:34am PT
|
The hand jammies work fine for me when the size is right but certainly do screw up thin hands or fingerlocks....
The little bungies for your fingers definitely limit hard face crimping too. So the key is to put them on when needed, and then take 'em off.
So, the right tool for the right job... And they absolutely rock when the size is right.
|
|
mountainlion
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:39am PT
|
If you notice I never said tape was aid. I did say rubber crack gloves were if they take 2 grades off the climb. How I ask is it not aid if it takes 2 grades off?
You may also notice I asked why not aid it with your gear that implies the use of etriers unless you just want to pull on gear.
I don't care if you don't want me in "your" crowd I have my own crowd of Jtree dirtbags and we don't tape up unless the crack is going to cut you to pieces no matter your technique (few and far between). Obviously if your going up several pitches of straight jamming like at Indian Creek tape up. Big difference between tape and rubber.
I also have my own exclusive crowd of being adopted by a D-Day veteran. Not because I didn't have a good dad but because he never had children and called me his son. You might say I'm proud of that and proud of what I did to earn such a thing. I don't care to be popular but I like being rare.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 01:08am PT
|
Rubber gloves do not take 2 grades off any climb I've ever tried and they have significant drawbacks as noted.
If anything they're just a bunch more durable/comfortable than tape and much stickier in certain kinds of rock.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 01:22am PT
|
In what kind of rock could tape possibly be more sticky than rubber. Enlighten please?
I always thought tape was for protection, not purchase.
|
|
mountainlion
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 02:29am PT
|
Climb for yourself Bruce, I do. I don't say I climbed up something that I flailed on without saying I flailed. Even if they won't find out--I don't like lying even to myself. If you couldn't do a route with tape gloves and then are able to with rubber gloves and you are still happy who am I to rain on your parade. Climb it how you want just tell the truth to your partners.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:07am PT
|
The last 2 posts sum it up pretty good I'd say.
I think that rubber crack gloves could add that needed protection in the situation Bruce presents.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:24am PT
|
This is after a week of climbing in JTree. None of us used tape. Guy on the left had a ton of technique and experience. Guy on the right had a fair bit of experience but not the greatest hand crack technique (also he took a fall coming off Intersection Rock during a drunken kegger).
It's like anything else - if you let your equipment substitute for technique you'll never develop the technique.
Do you know which way is north right now or do you need to check the GPS?
Do you know your climbing partner's cell phone number or do you have to look it up in your own phone?
Can you climb a 150 foot hand crack without bleeding out or do you have to tape up like a mummy?
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:31am PT
|
Word, Oplapanax.
Plus, bleeding is good for you. It insures that your blood is always fresh.
;-)
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:34am PT
|
It's like anything else - if you let your equipment substitute for technique you'll never develop the technique.
Word to this here^^^
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:36am PT
|
dude jah,
i wont hope gloves,
my shite is always slippin off
reality 'nd we could use
a better purchase
so's the alter-economy
can thrive,
and maybe then i can believe
is something bigger
than a can o' natural light,
be right back,
i'll be gone forever,
but forever is weath
and im broke and
by the way im the president
of the stongest sorrow
in the world
and when i wave my economical wand
the satans and jesus' and buddhas
and even hitler,
they all lay down at my feet and beg for change
see, im me.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:48am PT
|
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
|
Those gloves only help if theyre red or black
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
|
Wifey says she gets a tremendous feeling of power with her crack gloves.
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
|
Cosmic! That one is great!
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
|
^^^^^^^^
my eyes!!! the horror!!!
|
|
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
|
The better your technique the less need for hand jammies. The better your feet the less pressure on your hands. Yadda yadda
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
|
hahahahaha Cosmic, bad news for Locker- she doesn't have great technique!
|
|
ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2012 - 01:50am PT
|
Wow, 56 thats pretty good.
Sunny but cold up here today, went bouldering around 4:30, it was like 34 degrees...but sunny.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2012 - 02:13am PT
|
Guy on the left had a ton of technique and experience. Guy on the right had a fair bit of experience but not the greatest hand crack technique
Reality: Guy on the left was climbing routes that were easy for him. Guy on the right was climbing routes that were hard for him.
Fact: If you are working on routes that are hard for you and you are not taped, you will bleed, scar and be forced to climb less for fewer days.
|
|
John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:57am PT
|
Tape and Hand Jammies are aid?
Next thing yer gunna tell me is that standing on a cam hook is aid
;-)
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 10:10am PT
|
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
|
|
BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:36am PT
|
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
You gonna follow that guy's example? That worked out pretty well for him.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Nov 14, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
|
Get a bulk box of Kendall Curity 1" tape for her for Xmas and she can make a thin second skin tape glove every time she climbs.
Unless they've changed there sizing since I bought some 10 yrs ago, the smallest ones are huge. Jammies are like climbing with stick rubber sandals on your hands. For the same reason that loose shoes are annoying, having a piece of rubber slide back and forth even a little was even more frustrating than the girth.
|
|
brusman
Gym climber
United States
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
|
I am just ordering some from my friend in Europe, if you want a pair or 2, let me know. I think they come out to $35 each depending if I get enough, due to the shipping charges. I am in Orange County.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
|
Can Largo pipe up about his rig for Paisano overhang? Stories of welders gloves with lots of tape. Is this true?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
|
Technique is king, but sometimes ya gotta tape!! Fifty years of crack climbing have left my hands a mass of scar tissue. Curtis is the best!
But what Murcy said early in this thread, there are times when gloves work. I too like the ones he mentioned, but they tear. Thats what happened to Em's. it's not a perfect world out there.
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Jun 21, 2013 - 02:20am PT
|
I only use tape when blood makes the climb slippery...
|
|
Sslib
climber
|
|
Happy to report that can find Ocun Crack Gloves at http://blicard.com/collections/crack-climbing/products/crack-gloves. They are in stock as of the date of this post and we have all 4 sizes, $35 USD.
Hope this is helpful.
*Full disclosure I am co-owner of Blicard.com. We are a small company run out of Vancouver, BC & happy to be able to help out our fellow climbers with our small unique selection of climbing gear on our site.
Climb on!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Don't use crack gloves or tape gloves.....but I do tape. New tape job for each day, acts a bit like coffee to get me jump started.
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
|
|
I've been using the Ocun crack gloves for years now. For me they are way superior to tape gloves 95% of the time. I started using them for climbing down in Patagonia where its pretty helpful to have something covering your hands while jamming. Also they don't get wet like tape gloves and stay wet all day. You can also take them off and put them on in 15 seconds. This makes it easy to remove them at belays and put real gloves on. Often when its really cold I actually put them over my R1 hoody thumb catches which allows my hands to be insulated but I'm still able to jam pretty well.
For real hard thin hand cracks i probably wouldn't wear them and I actually find myself taking them off mid pitch. all I need is one good hand jam and I take them off with my teeth and put them down my shirt. and i've even put them back on mid pitch though it takes a stem or no-hands rest to do that.
I've also turned a few of my friends onto them. Colin Haley uses them as does Josh Wharton. Josh even wore them on the 2nd ascent of the North Twin in the Canadian rockies. I'd love it if somebody told him that the gloves were aid or that he should work on his technique.
and here is a pic of Kate Rutherford on a steep and hard 5.12 in the bugaboos wearing the Ocun gloves.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Mikey, I've noticed that most who complain about gloves/tape being aid actually have climbed but it was BITD.
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
Ocun gloves are way better than Hand Jammies imho. Tape is great but I"m concerned with how much trash I put into landfills. I save the tape for all day outside climbing and reserve the gloves for individual pitches and gym climbing.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Daphne....tape makes a great fire starter.
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
|
|
I even had my days of talking down to tape. When I use to actually spend time in the Creek I never taped. I didn't need to. It felt so soft after spending all season in Yosemite.
I do agree with a lot of people that tape or crack gloves shouldn't be a substitution for good technique they should only be a compliment. But the reality is that takes a lot of miles and time.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
My lady uses Ocun gloves... I just bought her another pair this morning but shhh! they're part of her birthday present. Their sizing is not favorable for ladies with very small hands. But they are pretty thin and form-fitting in latest design- with a good tight fit, they would be almost as slim as taping up, and less messy and wasteful. But taping would still give you the advantage when you need every bit of help possible.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
back i.t.d i used condoms
to make my richard seem bigger.
HE SCORES!
he shoots,
intercepted.
nutagain this post is absolutely unrelated to your avatar,
belch
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
I want some of those Ocuns . . . thanks mikey for verification. Nice work on your MC FA too by the way!
|
|
alina
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Pretty sure Reardon said something closer to:
"barefoot, chalkless, onsight soloing is climbing. everything else is compromise."
Naked is a nice touch, though. If it just has to be a naked, chalkless onsight to count as climbing, then I've done three pitches in my life.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 65 of total 65 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!