Crack Gloves

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ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
Ok ok...here is my man card.

Now that that is over...

I want to buy some of those crack gloves made of climbing rubber for my lady. Ive looked at a few types online but Im not sure what types are good for bad ass chicks who climb cracks.



ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
people keep telling me that if I have good technique and work the crack right, gloves aren't necessary...

so until then, I like my customized tape glove...less than $4 per pair...

are you and your lady taking up aid? ;)

cheers

LS
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
Why not just tape?

Forget the tape gloves, just wrap the hands up. ;)

The problem with those types of gloves you are referring to is that they will inhibit your ability to get into thin hand cracks since they are relatively thick.

Try putting down a few layers on the backsides of the hands to add a little more comfort, then go for the wrap around.

I discourage tape gloves since they will become loose overtime with each use, which will become a hindrance when climbing thin hand cracks. I see this happen to so many people, then they wonder why crack climbing is so difficult.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
There are plenty of good uses for these gloves, including gym climbing and days when you need gloves for just one pitch or something. Taping is better for all sorts of reasons, but takes time and creates waste. Anyway maybe we can let the OP make that call and not do this all over again. :-)

The original Hand Jammies are fine, but the Ocun gloves are thinner and I think nicer.

http://www.ocun.cz/en/products/technical-aids/crackgloves.html


Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
man or girl who gives a damn

I know a guy who just used a pair on a sustained 11d tight hand crack and said they chopped the grade down by two letter grades.

Sounds pretty sweet to me
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
Hand Jammies!


http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=3658


http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/chalkacc/handjammies.htm

and yes.... they do mess you up when it gets thin
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
I've also used fingerless leather gloves to expand my hand size when visiting the Creek.
(when I lived in Calgary where there are NO crack climbs).
Not as grippy as hand jammies, but still useful.
ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
what messes me up on thin crack far more than my custom tape gloves is poor foot technique...

having tried jammies, I've found my hands sweat too much in them, and that my tape gets in the way far far less.

but perhaps this is cause my hands tend toward the smaller size?

I know all my old skool friends would say, forget the jammies, and you'll get the technique faster...;) it kinda worked for me....

cheers

LS
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
I never liked the fit of the hand jammies. i just got a pair of the one's murcy showed above and they seem good - but I only use them in the gym, for convenience. Outside I just tape...
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Oct 27, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
I like tape gloves. I can use the same tape gloves for a surprising long time until I rip out of a crack and I destroy a few finger loops.

With that said, we all use sticky rubber on our shoes. I see no problem with using hand jammies. I've used them and on the right crack size it's like aid climbing. The wrong crack size can put a reasonably difficult pitch out of reach for me.
Nate101

Trad climber
Aliso Viejo, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
+1 for the Ocun. I love mine.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
what messes me up on thin crack far more than my custom tape gloves is poor foot technique...

My foot work sucks ass on thin stuff, especially finger cracks. Getting really annoying.

I usually tape and use hand jamies in the gym at times. My friend got me a pair of those for my birthday. I like tape the most, but since I sweat a lot I have to change them often since those gloves get nasty.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
Surely not for basalt?
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
In terms of sweat and tape, and just in terms of stickiness of tape, Kendall Curity porous tape is way better than other tape I have tried. Even sticks on your tips pretty well when you need that.

http://www.dmesupplygroup.com/ke3027.html

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
TAPE IS AID AND CHICKS DIG SCARS
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
I don't dig my scarred hands. Plus, I work in health care and look like fight club half the time. Tape often. Tape well. F*#k the purists in their scarred up little buttholes.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
My scarred up little butthole is hurt, knock it off. Im far from pure though. I work in healthcare too, I get gobis climbing, but never that bad. Just gotta bite the bullet and get your hands tough. By the time the hair on the back of your hands (not your palms, that will stay) is gone, youre skin is tough enough. If you tape, youll never get em tough. It helps your form when youre without tape, I think. Gotta pay more attention and milk into the good part of the jam.

That said, when I get older and my skin wont take it anymore, Ill be sportin some hand jammies or something.
OR

Trad climber
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Is this a troll?
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
Buddha, are you still not ...ancient in age (like some of us)? My hands used to get tough but now the skin is just too fragile. Tape really helps. Not the case with his sweetie of course but at a certain point you don't distain the tape.

Captain - Never with basalt, of course. Goes without saying. And when are you coming to Cali?
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 27, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
is this anything like aid climbing?

At least I've always been told that tape is aid…

Post OP Edit:
bad ass chicks who climb cracks.

 Hate to say it but bad ass chicks who climb cracks laugh at guys, or girls who wear those crack climbing gloves made f climbing rubber… Noamsain?
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
If rubber crack gloves take 2 grades off a climb are you supposed to feel as good about sending that 11d as you would if you had the jamming technique? How about just aid climbing the 11d with your gear? Why not just take a ladder or helicopter to the top...forget about challenging yourself or improving.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
That said, when I get older and my skin wont take it anymore, Ill be sportin some hand jammies or something.


Mine are scarred to sh#t. Years of heeding the no tape crowd's advice. Maybe I took the advice too early in my jamming career?

Anyway, it's always when I forego taping I get on some gobi-inducing nightmare of a climb. Although, I just got a harder (for me) crack climb without tape and came out none the worse.

I've just incurred so much scar tissue in that area, the skin doesn't get "thicker", it just bleeds easily and gobies up. Seriously, in the cold, I have on each hand two nickel-sized bright purple spots, and they don't really go away anymore regardless of temp. Scar tissue through and through.

edit: Oh, holy sh#t, mountainlion is in the tape is aid crowd? You guys can claim that retard as your own, I'll be taping up even more proudly, thank you very much.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
edit: Oh, holy sh#t, mountainlion is in the tape is aid crowd? You guys can claim that retard as your own, I'll be taping up even more proudly, thank you very much.

ROFL +1. You say some funny stuff at times Jebus.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Dont lump me in with that martian
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
climbing shoes=aid
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
How about just aid climbing the 11d with your gear? Why not just take a ladder or helicopter to the top...forget about challenging yourself or improving.

Well because aid climbing is standing in etriers, and riding a helicopter is riding a helicopter. Free climbing is totally different and way superior! I don't care so much how I feel after, its doing it that i dig and I don't see how a pair of these gloves are going to wreck things via some wierd navel gazing sort of accomplishment fetish. Jeez! waddaya think? I carry around some homo mirror or something?

Improving? I'll have you know my capacity for holding my liquor is light years beyond anything in my youth. Ive improved just fine and dandy thanks!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:12pm PT

Dont lump me in with that martian


Serious chuckle on that one. Understandable desire on your part too.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid.
Harvey did use to say sh#t like that. He acted like using any gear invented after 1955 was cheating.
Granite doesn't hurt my hands. I don't tape for anything but Indian Creek. Those cracks will grind your skin off.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
I attached #3 camalots to a wire frame around my wrist which connect to my sticky rubber crack gloves, the frame goes thru the palm of glove & extends past the ends of my fingers so that they can hold the cam triggers while jamming, this way when I put my gloved hands in the crack I know that if the rubber or my poor technique doesn't hold that i can just relax my hands & the cams will. This is going to help my technique & pain tolerance undoubtedly. I did a 12a the other day in the rain & it felt like 5.8, I will likely be freesoling 5.13 handcracks & sponsored by spring & getting rich off this crack glove cam invention as well. I made a pair with yellow aliens as well for all those pesky finger locks that scratch my cuticles. I'm currently working on some skyhook crimper gloves as well for sportclimbers so you don't need to rely on finger strength so much or cutting your tips on sharp holds, the prototypes look good & many think that 16a will be possible in them.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
I make my own rules. I used to have a system for marking guidebooks so Id know if I onsighted a climb or TRed it or fell...now I mark everything like Ive led it...my rules morph...

I can see using the rubber crack gloves for big routes where Id be aiding some of the route anyhow. They could really save time in this regard...if they work right.

fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
The hand jammies work fine for me when the size is right but certainly do screw up thin hands or fingerlocks....

The little bungies for your fingers definitely limit hard face crimping too. So the key is to put them on when needed, and then take 'em off.

So, the right tool for the right job... And they absolutely rock when the size is right.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
If you notice I never said tape was aid. I did say rubber crack gloves were if they take 2 grades off the climb. How I ask is it not aid if it takes 2 grades off?

You may also notice I asked why not aid it with your gear that implies the use of etriers unless you just want to pull on gear.

I don't care if you don't want me in "your" crowd I have my own crowd of Jtree dirtbags and we don't tape up unless the crack is going to cut you to pieces no matter your technique (few and far between). Obviously if your going up several pitches of straight jamming like at Indian Creek tape up. Big difference between tape and rubber.

I also have my own exclusive crowd of being adopted by a D-Day veteran. Not because I didn't have a good dad but because he never had children and called me his son. You might say I'm proud of that and proud of what I did to earn such a thing. I don't care to be popular but I like being rare.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
Big difference between tape and rubber.

True that. I've always rather tried to avoid tape but this rubber idea is intriguing. Like shoes on your hands, sort of. Do you wear shoes? Don't tell me you go bare foot. Yecch!
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
Rubber gloves do not take 2 grades off any climb I've ever tried and they have significant drawbacks as noted.

If anything they're just a bunch more durable/comfortable than tape and much stickier in certain kinds of rock.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
In what kind of rock could tape possibly be more sticky than rubber. Enlighten please?


I always thought tape was for protection, not purchase.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
maybe they are only slightly stickier in the other kinds of rock.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
I always thought tape was for protection, not purchase.


Generally, yes.

Although, it is more difficult to bleed out of a hold with tape gloves.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
Climb for yourself Bruce, I do. I don't say I climbed up something that I flailed on without saying I flailed. Even if they won't find out--I don't like lying even to myself. If you couldn't do a route with tape gloves and then are able to with rubber gloves and you are still happy who am I to rain on your parade. Climb it how you want just tell the truth to your partners.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Well said. I agree. I would only add that that is especially important be truthful with your partners if you are HIV positive.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:07am PT
The last 2 posts sum it up pretty good I'd say.

I think that rubber crack gloves could add that needed protection in the situation Bruce presents.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:24am PT


This is after a week of climbing in JTree. None of us used tape. Guy on the left had a ton of technique and experience. Guy on the right had a fair bit of experience but not the greatest hand crack technique (also he took a fall coming off Intersection Rock during a drunken kegger).

It's like anything else - if you let your equipment substitute for technique you'll never develop the technique.

Do you know which way is north right now or do you need to check the GPS?
Do you know your climbing partner's cell phone number or do you have to look it up in your own phone?
Can you climb a 150 foot hand crack without bleeding out or do you have to tape up like a mummy?


Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:31am PT
Word, Oplapanax.

Plus, bleeding is good for you. It insures that your blood is always fresh.
;-)
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:34am PT
It's like anything else - if you let your equipment substitute for technique you'll never develop the technique.

Word to this here^^^
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:36am PT
dude jah,
i wont hope gloves,
my shite is always slippin off
reality 'nd we could use
a better purchase
so's the alter-economy
can thrive,
and maybe then i can believe
is something bigger
than a can o' natural light,

be right back,
i'll be gone forever,
but forever is weath
and im broke and
by the way im the president
of the stongest sorrow
in the world
and when i wave my economical wand
the satans and jesus' and buddhas
and even hitler,
they all lay down at my feet and beg for change

see, im me.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:48am PT
Credit: kennyt
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 28, 2012 - 08:51am PT
I think I just got a boner.

You can call me Lacy, cowboy.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:50am PT
Those gloves only help if theyre red or black
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Oct 28, 2012 - 09:56am PT
Wifey says she gets a tremendous feeling of power with her crack gloves.
Naitch

climber
Seneca area
Oct 28, 2012 - 10:28am PT
Did someone say Ocun Crack Gloves?

http://www.sooza.ru/index.php?productID=3019
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 28, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Locker KNOWS about...

















































CRACK GLOVES!!!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Cosmic! That one is great!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
^^^^^^^^

my eyes!!! the horror!!!
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Oct 28, 2012 - 12:55pm PT

The better your technique the less need for hand jammies. The better your feet the less pressure on your hands. Yadda yadda
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 28, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
hahahahaha Cosmic, bad news for Locker- she doesn't have great technique!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Oct 28, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Do you use a GLOVE when you crack climb, Vitaliy????


:)

Edit: I got the PISTOL you sent me the other Day, Vitaliy.
I can't wait to get out and try it soon.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#233410
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
Wow, 56 thats pretty good.

Sunny but cold up here today, went bouldering around 4:30, it was like 34 degrees...but sunny.

JLP

Social climber
The internet
Nov 10, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
Guy on the left had a ton of technique and experience. Guy on the right had a fair bit of experience but not the greatest hand crack technique

Reality: Guy on the left was climbing routes that were easy for him. Guy on the right was climbing routes that were hard for him.

Fact: If you are working on routes that are hard for you and you are not taped, you will bleed, scar and be forced to climb less for fewer days.
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Nov 14, 2012 - 06:57am PT
Tape and Hand Jammies are aid?

Next thing yer gunna tell me is that standing on a cam hook is aid

;-)
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:10am PT
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:36am PT
What did Reardon say? "Naked, chalkless onsighting is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."

You gonna follow that guy's example? That worked out pretty well for him.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:18am PT
Get a bulk box of Kendall Curity 1" tape for her for Xmas and she can make a thin second skin tape glove every time she climbs.

Unless they've changed there sizing since I bought some 10 yrs ago, the smallest ones are huge. Jammies are like climbing with stick rubber sandals on your hands. For the same reason that loose shoes are annoying, having a piece of rubber slide back and forth even a little was even more frustrating than the girth.
brusman

Gym climber
United States
Jun 19, 2013 - 11:53am PT
I am just ordering some from my friend in Europe, if you want a pair or 2, let me know. I think they come out to $35 each depending if I get enough, due to the shipping charges. I am in Orange County.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jun 19, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Can Largo pipe up about his rig for Paisano overhang? Stories of welders gloves with lots of tape. Is this true?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 19, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Technique is king, but sometimes ya gotta tape!! Fifty years of crack climbing have left my hands a mass of scar tissue. Curtis is the best!

But what Murcy said early in this thread, there are times when gloves work. I too like the ones he mentioned, but they tear. Thats what happened to Em's. it's not a perfect world out there.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 19, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
I've come to prefer tape gloves over things like hand jammies. Instead of velcro closure its a simple piece of tape to close the wrist. I usually keep reusing tape gloves, adding tape (and peeling remnanants) as needed, till they start to stink. Then toss and make a new pair ;-)

DMT
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jun 20, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
I only use tape when blood makes the climb slippery...


Credit: mojede
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