Crack Gloves

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 21 - 40 of total 65 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Oct 28, 2012 - 12:04am PT

Dont lump me in with that martian

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Oct 28, 2012 - 12:06am PT

climbing shoes=aid

chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Oct 28, 2012 - 12:17am PT

Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid.

Harvey did use to say sh#t like that. He acted like using any gear invented after 1955 was cheating.
Granite doesn't hurt my hands. I don't tape for anything but Indian Creek. Those cracks will grind your skin off.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Oct 28, 2012 - 12:27am PT

I attached #3 camalots to a wire frame around my wrist which connect to my sticky rubber crack gloves, the frame goes thru the palm of glove & extends past the ends of my fingers so that they can hold the cam triggers while jamming, this way when I put my gloved hands in the crack I know that if the rubber or my poor technique doesn't hold that i can just relax my hands & the cams will. This is going to help my technique & pain tolerance undoubtedly. I did a 12a the other day in the rain & it felt like 5.8, I will likely be freesoling 5.13 handcracks & sponsored by spring & getting rich off this crack glove cam invention as well. I made a pair with yellow aliens as well for all those pesky finger locks that scratch my cuticles. I'm currently working on some skyhook crimper gloves as well for sportclimbers so you don't need to rely on finger strength so much or cutting your tips on sharp holds, the prototypes look good & many think that 16a will be possible in them.

ImplicitD

Trad climber

Boise

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 12:32am PT

I make my own rules. I used to have a system for marking guidebooks so Id know if I onsighted a climb or TRed it or fell...now I mark everything like Ive led it...my rules morph...

I can see using the rubber crack gloves for big routes where Id be aiding some of the route anyhow. They could really save time in this regard...if they work right.

fear

Ice climber

hartford, ct

Oct 28, 2012 - 12:34am PT

The hand jammies work fine for me when the size is right but certainly do screw up thin hands or fingerlocks....

The little bungies for your fingers definitely limit hard face crimping too. So the key is to put them on when needed, and then take 'em off.

So, the right tool for the right job... And they absolutely rock when the size is right.

mountainlion

Trad climber

California

Oct 28, 2012 - 12:39am PT

If you notice I never said tape was aid. I did say rubber crack gloves were if they take 2 grades off the climb. How I ask is it not aid if it takes 2 grades off?

You may also notice I asked why not aid it with your gear that implies the use of etriers unless you just want to pull on gear.

I don't care if you don't want me in "your" crowd I have my own crowd of Jtree dirtbags and we don't tape up unless the crack is going to cut you to pieces no matter your technique (few and far between). Obviously if your going up several pitches of straight jamming like at Indian Creek tape up. Big difference between tape and rubber.

I also have my own exclusive crowd of being adopted by a D-Day veteran. Not because I didn't have a good dad but because he never had children and called me his son. You might say I'm proud of that and proud of what I did to earn such a thing. I don't care to be popular but I like being rare.

fear

Ice climber

hartford, ct

Oct 28, 2012 - 01:08am PT

Rubber gloves do not take 2 grades off any climb I've ever tried and they have significant drawbacks as noted.

If anything they're just a bunch more durable/comfortable than tape and much stickier in certain kinds of rock.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Oct 28, 2012 - 01:22am PT

In what kind of rock could tape possibly be more sticky than rubber. Enlighten please?

I always thought tape was for protection, not purchase.

mountainlion

Trad climber

California

Oct 28, 2012 - 02:29am PT

Climb for yourself Bruce, I do. I don't say I climbed up something that I flailed on without saying I flailed. Even if they won't find out--I don't like lying even to myself. If you couldn't do a route with tape gloves and then are able to with rubber gloves and you are still happy who am I to rain on your parade. Climb it how you want just tell the truth to your partners.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Oct 28, 2012 - 03:07am PT

The last 2 posts sum it up pretty good I'd say.

I think that rubber crack gloves could add that needed protection in the situation Bruce presents.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Oct 28, 2012 - 11:24am PT

This is after a week of climbing in JTree. None of us used tape. Guy on the left had a ton of technique and experience. Guy on the right had a fair bit of experience but not the greatest hand crack technique (also he took a fall coming off Intersection Rock during a drunken kegger).

It's like anything else - if you let your equipment substitute for technique you'll never develop the technique.

Do you know which way is north right now or do you need to check the GPS?
Do you know your climbing partner's cell phone number or do you have to look it up in your own phone?
Can you climb a 150 foot hand crack without bleeding out or do you have to tape up like a mummy?

Captain...or Skully

climber

Oct 28, 2012 - 11:31am PT

Word, Oplapanax.

Plus, bleeding is good for you. It insures that your blood is always fresh.
;-)

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Oct 28, 2012 - 11:34am PT

It's like anything else - if you let your equipment substitute for technique you'll never develop the technique.

Word to this here^^^

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Oct 28, 2012 - 11:36am PT

dude jah,
i wont hope gloves,
my shite is always slippin off
reality 'nd we could use
a better purchase
so's the alter-economy
can thrive,
and maybe then i can believe
is something bigger
than a can o' natural light,

be right back,
i'll be gone forever,
but forever is weath
and im broke and
by the way im the president
of the stongest sorrow
in the world
and when i wave my economical wand
the satans and jesus' and buddhas
and even hitler,
they all lay down at my feet and beg for change

see, im me.