Crack Gloves

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
If rubber crack gloves take 2 grades off a climb are you supposed to feel as good about sending that 11d as you would if you had the jamming technique? How about just aid climbing the 11d with your gear? Why not just take a ladder or helicopter to the top...forget about challenging yourself or improving.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
That said, when I get older and my skin wont take it anymore, Ill be sportin some hand jammies or something.


Mine are scarred to sh#t. Years of heeding the no tape crowd's advice. Maybe I took the advice too early in my jamming career?

Anyway, it's always when I forego taping I get on some gobi-inducing nightmare of a climb. Although, I just got a harder (for me) crack climb without tape and came out none the worse.

I've just incurred so much scar tissue in that area, the skin doesn't get "thicker", it just bleeds easily and gobies up. Seriously, in the cold, I have on each hand two nickel-sized bright purple spots, and they don't really go away anymore regardless of temp. Scar tissue through and through.

edit: Oh, holy sh#t, mountainlion is in the tape is aid crowd? You guys can claim that retard as your own, I'll be taping up even more proudly, thank you very much.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
edit: Oh, holy sh#t, mountainlion is in the tape is aid crowd? You guys can claim that retard as your own, I'll be taping up even more proudly, thank you very much.

ROFL +1. You say some funny stuff at times Jebus.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Dont lump me in with that martian
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
climbing shoes=aid
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
How about just aid climbing the 11d with your gear? Why not just take a ladder or helicopter to the top...forget about challenging yourself or improving.

Well because aid climbing is standing in etriers, and riding a helicopter is riding a helicopter. Free climbing is totally different and way superior! I don't care so much how I feel after, its doing it that i dig and I don't see how a pair of these gloves are going to wreck things via some wierd navel gazing sort of accomplishment fetish. Jeez! waddaya think? I carry around some homo mirror or something?

Improving? I'll have you know my capacity for holding my liquor is light years beyond anything in my youth. Ive improved just fine and dandy thanks!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:12pm PT

Dont lump me in with that martian


Serious chuckle on that one. Understandable desire on your part too.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
Harvey Carter used to say that chalk was aid. Gloves......probably aid.
Harvey did use to say sh#t like that. He acted like using any gear invented after 1955 was cheating.
Granite doesn't hurt my hands. I don't tape for anything but Indian Creek. Those cracks will grind your skin off.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
I attached #3 camalots to a wire frame around my wrist which connect to my sticky rubber crack gloves, the frame goes thru the palm of glove & extends past the ends of my fingers so that they can hold the cam triggers while jamming, this way when I put my gloved hands in the crack I know that if the rubber or my poor technique doesn't hold that i can just relax my hands & the cams will. This is going to help my technique & pain tolerance undoubtedly. I did a 12a the other day in the rain & it felt like 5.8, I will likely be freesoling 5.13 handcracks & sponsored by spring & getting rich off this crack glove cam invention as well. I made a pair with yellow aliens as well for all those pesky finger locks that scratch my cuticles. I'm currently working on some skyhook crimper gloves as well for sportclimbers so you don't need to rely on finger strength so much or cutting your tips on sharp holds, the prototypes look good & many think that 16a will be possible in them.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
I make my own rules. I used to have a system for marking guidebooks so Id know if I onsighted a climb or TRed it or fell...now I mark everything like Ive led it...my rules morph...

I can see using the rubber crack gloves for big routes where Id be aiding some of the route anyhow. They could really save time in this regard...if they work right.

fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
The hand jammies work fine for me when the size is right but certainly do screw up thin hands or fingerlocks....

The little bungies for your fingers definitely limit hard face crimping too. So the key is to put them on when needed, and then take 'em off.

So, the right tool for the right job... And they absolutely rock when the size is right.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
If you notice I never said tape was aid. I did say rubber crack gloves were if they take 2 grades off the climb. How I ask is it not aid if it takes 2 grades off?

You may also notice I asked why not aid it with your gear that implies the use of etriers unless you just want to pull on gear.

I don't care if you don't want me in "your" crowd I have my own crowd of Jtree dirtbags and we don't tape up unless the crack is going to cut you to pieces no matter your technique (few and far between). Obviously if your going up several pitches of straight jamming like at Indian Creek tape up. Big difference between tape and rubber.

I also have my own exclusive crowd of being adopted by a D-Day veteran. Not because I didn't have a good dad but because he never had children and called me his son. You might say I'm proud of that and proud of what I did to earn such a thing. I don't care to be popular but I like being rare.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
Big difference between tape and rubber.

True that. I've always rather tried to avoid tape but this rubber idea is intriguing. Like shoes on your hands, sort of. Do you wear shoes? Don't tell me you go bare foot. Yecch!
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
Rubber gloves do not take 2 grades off any climb I've ever tried and they have significant drawbacks as noted.

If anything they're just a bunch more durable/comfortable than tape and much stickier in certain kinds of rock.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
In what kind of rock could tape possibly be more sticky than rubber. Enlighten please?


I always thought tape was for protection, not purchase.
Malemute

Ice climber
the ghost
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
maybe they are only slightly stickier in the other kinds of rock.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 27, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
I always thought tape was for protection, not purchase.


Generally, yes.

Although, it is more difficult to bleed out of a hold with tape gloves.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
Climb for yourself Bruce, I do. I don't say I climbed up something that I flailed on without saying I flailed. Even if they won't find out--I don't like lying even to myself. If you couldn't do a route with tape gloves and then are able to with rubber gloves and you are still happy who am I to rain on your parade. Climb it how you want just tell the truth to your partners.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 27, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
Well said. I agree. I would only add that that is especially important be truthful with your partners if you are HIV positive.
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