Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Nov 28, 2012 - 03:42pm PT

What's the story behind the OLD rivet ladder on the south side of the Columbia boulder in camp 4.

As it must now be more than 50 years old, it might be considered a historical/archaeological relic, and so not to be touched.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

i WASNT ON THE INTERNET during bush years...

Nov 28, 2012 - 03:43pm PT

i believe thats where Royal instructed some Aid years back no?

Jeremy

Social climber

Albuquerque, NM

Nov 28, 2012 - 05:33pm PT

AID CLIMBING BUMP!

Missing photo ID#273610

Missing photo ID#261238

GET SOME!

JA

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Nov 28, 2012 - 05:39pm PT

Is that the belay?

Jeremy

Social climber

Albuquerque, NM

Nov 28, 2012 - 05:44pm PT

That's part of it...I brought the drill but no bit or wrench. Super sketch and way ghetto.

Turned A1 into A4 as the original Beckey bolts were gone...

Good times!

JA

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Nov 28, 2012 - 05:56pm PT

Would you prefer it melted in your mouth?

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Nov 28, 2012 - 05:57pm PT

As fare as Silent Partner vs. Gri-gri for soloing goes, well, one was designed and made for soloing, the maker of the other emphatically states that you should not use it for soloing.

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Nov 28, 2012 - 06:18pm PT

The Silent Partner is versatile too, in the sense you can claim you have a silent partner. Ah yes, I picked up a podner just this year.

(you know, in business)

Sorry dude, slot's been taken, already have all the help I need.

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Nov 28, 2012 - 06:59pm PT

Hey! Don't you be slanderin' Royal about his drilling skills. I'm 6' 2" and I've done his proud ladders on the Prow and Tis-sa-ack. I had to step it up and stretch. He bragged about the Tis-sa-ack effort in the famous article.

So.... Glen Denny was 6' 10"?....or, was it Wayne Merry?

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Nov 28, 2012 - 07:03pm PT

OK. sorry. I'm not done yet!

I climbed Lurking Fear with my wife Margy and she got the bolt ladder on the 2nd/3rd pitch? She is 5' 0". We set her up with a 2' cheater stick and she made that work. So....what's the problem?

Yes I'm late to the thread.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Nov 29, 2012 - 05:54pm PT


	Credit: Ron Anderson

expando nailing...on a hideous overhang..

afterward,, it was all beers,buds,, and,,,,,,,Jeremys MOM..;-)

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 10:57pm PT

As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).

Which tasks would grigri help on the wall with aside from belaying? rapelling to clean can be done on it i guess?
man, i wish there were more videos out there...

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber

AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!

Nov 29, 2012 - 11:15pm PT

I wonder when they are going to make an Aiding shoe with front points
like on crampons and climbing Ninja hooks for the hands. I would think it would save time over standing in aiders on hook placements.

:)

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Nov 29, 2012 - 11:40pm PT

V-

I use a GriGri for seconding pitches as a backup, with a knot thrown in here and there.

For following traverses where you can re-aid the section, I just drop the jugs and pull slack through the GriGri, with a knot for good measure.

You can haul through a grigri, or use it as a capture device.

It doubles as a second method of ascending should you drop a jumar.

You can short-fix with it much easier than a clove hitch.

The #1 reason for using a grigri on a wall is that you have 2 hands to manage the beer.

jfailing

Trad climber

Lone Pine

Nov 30, 2012 - 03:16am PT

The #1 reason for using a grigri on a wall is that you have 2 hands to manage the beer.

Truth. How are you supposed to make a sandwich, open a can of kippered herring, or play the mandolin while your partner is on lead?

Grigri.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 09:41am PT

I use a GriGri for seconding pitches as a backup, with a knot thrown in here and there.

why not use a knot every 30 ft or so? it keeps the rope from getting stuck somewhere wayyyyyy lower too. plus when you are jumaring you would need to stop every so often and feed all the slack that builds up through the gri gri, right? That seems kind of annoying.
But I did see some guy using the gri gri as his back up in the instructional video that was posted earlier. Thank you to whoever made it! Very helpful.

This video: http://vimeo.com/4388859

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

thank you!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Nov 30, 2012 - 09:45am PT

Rapping with a Gri-gri is safer (imho) since if you get konked on the head and lose control of the rope you'll stop. My theory of big wall climbing is to conserve strength at all costs. The Gri-gir is a rope grab that can also release under a load, you don't have any other tools on a wall that can do that.