Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

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Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 28, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
As fare as Silent Partner vs. Gri-gri for soloing goes, well, one was designed and made for soloing, the maker of the other emphatically states that you should not use it for soloing.

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
The Silent Partner is versatile too, in the sense you can claim you have a silent partner. Ah yes, I picked up a podner just this year.

(you know, in business)

Sorry dude, slot's been taken, already have all the help I need.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 28, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
Hey! Don't you be slanderin' Royal about his drilling skills. I'm 6' 2" and I've done his proud ladders on the Prow and Tis-sa-ack. I had to step it up and stretch. He bragged about the Tis-sa-ack effort in the famous article.






So.... Glen Denny was 6' 10"?....or, was it Wayne Merry?
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 28, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
OK. sorry. I'm not done yet!

I climbed Lurking Fear with my wife Margy and she got the bolt ladder on the 2nd/3rd pitch? She is 5' 0". We set her up with a 2' cheater stick and she made that work. So....what's the problem?



Yes I'm late to the thread.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

expando nailing...on a hideous overhang..

afterward,, it was all beers,buds,, and,,,,,,,Jeremys MOM..;-)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 01:57am PT
As a tool, the SP is totally single purpose, the Gri-gri is a really good multifaceted tool that I wouldn't go up on a wall without (in fact, ahem, I've taken a spare, so far, every time I've been up El Cap since I dropped my one and only off of Iron Hawk this spring).

Which tasks would grigri help on the wall with aside from belaying? rapelling to clean can be done on it i guess?
man, i wish there were more videos out there...
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:15am PT
I wonder when they are going to make an Aiding shoe with front points
like on crampons and climbing Ninja hooks for the hands. I would think it would save time over standing in aiders on hook placements.

:)
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:40am PT
V-

I use a GriGri for seconding pitches as a backup, with a knot thrown in here and there.

For following traverses where you can re-aid the section, I just drop the jugs and pull slack through the GriGri, with a knot for good measure.

You can haul through a grigri, or use it as a capture device.

It doubles as a second method of ascending should you drop a jumar.

You can short-fix with it much easier than a clove hitch.

The #1 reason for using a grigri on a wall is that you have 2 hands to manage the beer.
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:16am PT
The #1 reason for using a grigri on a wall is that you have 2 hands to manage the beer.

Truth. How are you supposed to make a sandwich, open a can of kippered herring, or play the mandolin while your partner is on lead?

Grigri.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
I use a GriGri for seconding pitches as a backup, with a knot thrown in here and there.

why not use a knot every 30 ft or so? it keeps the rope from getting stuck somewhere wayyyyyy lower too. plus when you are jumaring you would need to stop every so often and feed all the slack that builds up through the gri gri, right? That seems kind of annoying.
But I did see some guy using the gri gri as his back up in the instructional video that was posted earlier. Thank you to whoever made it! Very helpful.

This video: http://vimeo.com/4388859

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

thank you!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Rapping with a Gri-gri is safer (imho) since if you get konked on the head and lose control of the rope you'll stop. My theory of big wall climbing is to conserve strength at all costs. The Gri-gir is a rope grab that can also release under a load, you don't have any other tools on a wall that can do that.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Aid climbing is for pussies...DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU ARE SO GUNNA DIE...JUST LOOK AT THE GEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
^^^^^^^

CHOSS, I tell ya, CHOSS!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
aint even choss,,, jus MUD....congealed MUD...should just use dry toolin to climb that stuff.


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
Jeremy, thought about aiding ice climbs? Seems more solid. lol
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
My aid climbing boots with front points,(Patent Pending) and climbing Ninja claws should work PERFECT on that Chossy MUD!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
I want to know when the book on aid climbing by Jeremy's mom is coming out.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Jeremy: I can only summon a word cloud at the moment... mentally deficient awesome scary insanity ridiculous hilarious


Edit: And after being with your mom, I learned where you get your favorite expression. WOO HOO!!!!!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Contrary to her modest rating of 5.9+, I had to resort to some aid on jeremys mom.


Yes the hammer came out, so she should be ready for some nutting by the next team.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Contrary to her modest rating of 5.9+

Is that in dollars?
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