Stupid Questions about Aid Climbing

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 161 - 180 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:40am PT
V-

I use a GriGri for seconding pitches as a backup, with a knot thrown in here and there.

For following traverses where you can re-aid the section, I just drop the jugs and pull slack through the GriGri, with a knot for good measure.

You can haul through a grigri, or use it as a capture device.

It doubles as a second method of ascending should you drop a jumar.

You can short-fix with it much easier than a clove hitch.

The #1 reason for using a grigri on a wall is that you have 2 hands to manage the beer.
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:16am PT
The #1 reason for using a grigri on a wall is that you have 2 hands to manage the beer.

Truth. How are you supposed to make a sandwich, open a can of kippered herring, or play the mandolin while your partner is on lead?

Grigri.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
I use a GriGri for seconding pitches as a backup, with a knot thrown in here and there.

why not use a knot every 30 ft or so? it keeps the rope from getting stuck somewhere wayyyyyy lower too. plus when you are jumaring you would need to stop every so often and feed all the slack that builds up through the gri gri, right? That seems kind of annoying.
But I did see some guy using the gri gri as his back up in the instructional video that was posted earlier. Thank you to whoever made it! Very helpful.

This video: http://vimeo.com/4388859

I've soloed two El Cap routes with a Gri-gri and one with a Silent Partner. The Silent Partner, is a far better and far safer tool to self belay with than a Gri-gri.

thank you!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
Rapping with a Gri-gri is safer (imho) since if you get konked on the head and lose control of the rope you'll stop. My theory of big wall climbing is to conserve strength at all costs. The Gri-gir is a rope grab that can also release under a load, you don't have any other tools on a wall that can do that.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#134441

photo not found
Missing photo ID#270111

photo not found
Missing photo ID#273587

photo not found
Missing photo ID#270102

photo not found
Missing photo ID#141890

photo not found
Missing photo ID#169483

photo not found
Missing photo ID#161309

photo not found
Missing photo ID#141888

photo not found
Missing photo ID#141889

photo not found
Missing photo ID#135861

photo not found
Missing photo ID#239140

photo not found
Missing photo ID#125527

Aid climbing is for pussies...DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU ARE SO GUNNA DIE...JUST LOOK AT THE GEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
^^^^^^^

CHOSS, I tell ya, CHOSS!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
aint even choss,,, jus MUD....congealed MUD...should just use dry toolin to climb that stuff.


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
Jeremy, thought about aiding ice climbs? Seems more solid. lol
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
My aid climbing boots with front points,(Patent Pending) and climbing Ninja claws should work PERFECT on that Chossy MUD!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
I want to know when the book on aid climbing by Jeremy's mom is coming out.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Jeremy: I can only summon a word cloud at the moment... mentally deficient awesome scary insanity ridiculous hilarious


Edit: And after being with your mom, I learned where you get your favorite expression. WOO HOO!!!!!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Contrary to her modest rating of 5.9+, I had to resort to some aid on jeremys mom.


Yes the hammer came out, so she should be ready for some nutting by the next team.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Contrary to her modest rating of 5.9+

Is that in dollars?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Vitaliy;
Shouldn't you be WORKING, changing Bedpans or something?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
Seems like everyone here is in love with Jeremy's Mom.
She must be BEAUTIFUL.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Nov 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Actually, ice screws would probably be pretty good pro on that route.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Jeremy probably knows a whole lot about aid climbing, unfortunately, a lot of what he knows I'd be scared to know!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Nov 30, 2012 - 03:50pm PT

Yes the hammer came out, so she should be ready for some nutting by the next team.

Bahahaha

Man these Jeremy's mom jokes are good, but too easy.......kind of like Jeremy's mom!!!!!

WOO HOO!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
Let's get off Jeremy's mom, cause she can't handle those other five men on her now!!!

jk. looking at all that crazy stuff he does I would not be surprised at all if he showed up with a machine gun at the next supertopo sushi fest gathering lol
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
What about "fraid" climbing. I head a big route in the Black Canyon went that way and also the triple cracks on The Shield.
Messages 161 - 180 of total 189 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews