Respecting local ethics...thinking Internationally


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Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
May 13, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
As the planet shrinks we must celebrate those who climb clean.

Do great things, leave no trace.

How bad do we need a V8 boulder problem on the side of El Cap? ...or anywhere?

If the local ethic is to rap bolt clean crack, that ethic is still idiotic, no matter what location

What Spider Savage said! Well, at least strive to leave no (or as little as possible) trace of your passage. Yes, leave no trace is an impossibility, but an ideal we could all strive for.

solution: hand drill.

I've seen Jim Waugh put a 3/8" x 2 1/4" in under 3 minutes during an August electrical storm on Babo. Deuce put an unknown size in 1 minute flat on flat ground. It can be done.

It is because you are weak and your skirt is blowing up in you face if it takes longer than that.

If you go to an area (that accepts bolts in the first place), you drill by hand, and go from the ground up there are far less chances to screw a route up and piss people off.

Better yet, 'shoes, shirt, and rack on your back' and do the damn thing without a single hole in a day and you gain respect from climbing peers anywhere in the world.

And, what rick d said!

Boulder climber
May 13, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
I agree with Todd proud to be a climber...not an fact i started due to my lack of athleticism...

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 13, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
I was totally down with the local ethic in Sweden - Climbing Cat's Cradles.

Credit: Reilly

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
May 13, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
Toprope Heaven - Courtesy MAKB and
Toprope Heaven - Courtesy MAKB and
Credit: ydpl8s
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
May 13, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
This is why I love Mexico so much. We have miles and miles of big unclimbed walls and anything goes. You want to climb it trad? OK! You want to place bolts? OK! Ground up? OK! Top down? OK! No need to go through a committee!

The only "rule" we have here is we don't mess with other people's routes.

Hobart, Australia
May 17, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Regarding my timed bolt placements, it was 47 seconds to place a 1/4" by 1 1/4" Rawl buttonhead (drill the hole and place the bolt) in Cochise Stronghold granite. That was in prime position everything laid out on a flat stone in the campground. It was pretty much the same in Yosemite granite. On route, I could generally place a bolt in a few minutes given a good stance. In sandstone, 3/8" bolts x 3" deep took about 2-3 minutes. The Waugh record of 3 minutes for a 3/8" in granite sounds amazing--don't think I could have drilled a 3/8" that fast in granite.

On route, it's all a matter of stance. Even with a pretty wired drilling technique, I recall spending about a very painful and tedious 1/2 hour placing a 1/4" Rawl on a ridiculously difficult stance on the Autobahn crux pitch (one foot on the tiniest smear, the other foot dangling, no handholds) because I could only get a few hits before having to readjust my stance (over the roof).
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