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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Your photos are from Aug 2011?
It is weird that it looks so bare in the photos. In December or November (2011) there was a TR about climbing it (right side) in good ice conditions. I guess it formed after your trip. Winter did not produce much snow but kept it intact, so I climbed it in the spring. In good ice conditions, although parts were covered by a 6 inch layer of powder which made it a bit spicy. Ice was too thin to take screws more than half way in places too. Ice nine had ice, but seemed half melted. Would love to do it some day.
Do people usually find it 'in' in the fall? Or has anyone climbed it in the spring while it was in?
How about the snow situation? Do people find it 'in' after it snows early and than a warm and than cold temps form it into a pitch? Or is there no correlation?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Anyone has photos ON or OF that almost legendary bulge?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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Rick, think any worthwhile ice will be 'in' for us to get on late this month/early next?
Oh yes my dear, Rick will find some ice only locals know about for ya ; ) Sharpen the tools, and buy some stingers, I feel it will be some epic-better-than-ice-9-type-of-outing.
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aran
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Chief beat me to it, but was gonna share the same info on N Peak after doing the N ridge link up with Conness Sunday. Glad you're asking Vitaliy, I'd love to go get on V-notch myself.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Any updates? I heard V notch looks like total mess at the moment
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 10, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Go East, young man, go East.....or perhaps North, if it's ice you're looking for.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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updates....
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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North Ridge Baker was great today...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Thar she blows!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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always ice in Orient Bay. just bring your Ed Viesturs down suit to climb WI5+ routes
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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now i wanna go climb some icebergs!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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North Ridge Baker was great today...
did the other spraymaster attend?
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Piotr
climber
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Sep 13, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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At the moment...
V and U notch - death trap, large amount of rock fall.
North Peak - IN, snow and ice.
Right Mendel - IN but thin.
 Piotr
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Sep 13, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Palisade Glacier Last weekend. The U-notch truly is a shooting gallery.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Thank you guys. Very helpful.
I'll look around for some pictures, but ya late spring early summer can work too, cant remember how that winter was of 1999 but the climbing in there was great.
Would be awesome to look at the photos of that one from when it was in.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Sep 13, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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I don't think I've seen the snowfield on North Pal that small in years
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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or crevasses that big
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Piotr
climber
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Sep 17, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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...bump...
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Gene
climber
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Sep 17, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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The U Notch looks grim in that picture. Yikes!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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I went up Right North Peak couloir and it was neve/snow, with VERY little ice on the side. Still a nice day...
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