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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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Any one has any?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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none at all? really?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 28, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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none at all? really? No, cuz ice dilutes the whiskey.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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Stand in line? lol You do not climb many peaks these days The Cragger. : )
Although it is not Sierra, I had good ice conditions on Mt. Shasta this past weekend. We did Hotlum Glacier-left gully direct. Not too steep, but quality ice above the shrund, and especially in the gully.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Aug 28, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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As of about 12 days ago the ice hadn't fully consolidated or been exposed on all but the steepest angles. Maybe 6-10 days.
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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Aug 28, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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^ perfect, that's exactly when i'll be there....but where exactly is there?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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Yur right. I don't do peaks. I hope you aren't waiting in line to do a peak.
How come you stopped?
I do not wait in lines to do peaks. Although I had to wait in order to climb NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire. First and hopefully the last time this year. There were 5 parties ahead and 6 behind. We got to the base at sunrise. It was ridiculous, never seen anything like it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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Yeah but was it worth the wait? I hope so as its a pretty good route. Funny that i go down to Cali, the most populous state of the bunch, and never line up for anything even on witney, russel or the hulk and you you need to take a ticket in the great white wilderness!
Speaking of which, that stuff on shasta ... i'll be passing through soon and it looks like a good mid way pit stop. Would you recommend that or any other?
It was worth the wait because I wanted to do that climb for so long. Also if one stays positive about the whole thing, the experience will not turn out to be negative (as long as weather is fine). Everyone kept moving well, wasn't too bad. Just weird to have so many people on a peak.
It was pretty fun glacier on Shasta. My favorite route up the peak so far (I have done Casaval ridge, Avalanche gulch, Green Butte, West face, Whitney glacier and this one).
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 28, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Hotlum Glacier Left Gully Direct
My first completed Shasta route. And my first big snow/ice route. Excellent climb.
(Mega thread drift)
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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Aug 28, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Also if one stays positive about the whole thing, the experience will not turn out to be negative sound advice my man, spoken like a true guru
aaaaaaaaaaaaa......couldn't resist that :)
i'll be checkin' out north peak in a week, post up some photos if it's worth while
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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sound advice my man, spoken like a true guru
lol thanks. Seriously though I noticed people always try to find reasons to bail. It is too windy, too crowded, too hot, too cold, too tired, too lame, too rough etc. If you want to do things and enjoy them you gotta keep a positive attitude. When we realized we had that line I can tell you, I was not happy. But after we got started I was happy to get to know parties ahead and behind us. All turned out to be cool people.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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still no updates?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Thanks for posting these. Any thoughts on Feather or V notch in 2 weeks?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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Feather is lower angle than V-notch? I thought it was similar angle but less rock fall potential?
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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thanx for that update chief....i'm not gonna bother hiking in there later this week then. looks like a waste if time better spent on some good rock.
so what would you rate the best most classic sierra couloir? or better yet the top 5
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Days are shortening, V.
Throw in "It's too dark."
Very good look at the couloirs, Chief.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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When were you in the Bugaboos, V?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Beginning of August, Mouse. Had 7 days-1 to hike in, 5 to climb, and one to hike out. Short, but had an amazing time. Almost as good as Sierra ; )
Chief, don't you love the scenery around Feather though? It is a lot of hiking, but the area is fantastic.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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80 degree ice on ice nine wont ever happen again.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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a large pile of snow up there might help.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Your photos are from Aug 2011?
It is weird that it looks so bare in the photos. In December or November (2011) there was a TR about climbing it (right side) in good ice conditions. I guess it formed after your trip. Winter did not produce much snow but kept it intact, so I climbed it in the spring. In good ice conditions, although parts were covered by a 6 inch layer of powder which made it a bit spicy. Ice was too thin to take screws more than half way in places too. Ice nine had ice, but seemed half melted. Would love to do it some day.
Do people usually find it 'in' in the fall? Or has anyone climbed it in the spring while it was in?
How about the snow situation? Do people find it 'in' after it snows early and than a warm and than cold temps form it into a pitch? Or is there no correlation?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 01:30am PT
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Anyone has photos ON or OF that almost legendary bulge?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
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Rick, think any worthwhile ice will be 'in' for us to get on late this month/early next?
Oh yes my dear, Rick will find some ice only locals know about for ya ; ) Sharpen the tools, and buy some stingers, I feel it will be some epic-better-than-ice-9-type-of-outing.
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aran
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Chief beat me to it, but was gonna share the same info on N Peak after doing the N ridge link up with Conness Sunday. Glad you're asking Vitaliy, I'd love to go get on V-notch myself.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
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Any updates? I heard V notch looks like total mess at the moment
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 10, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Go East, young man, go East.....or perhaps North, if it's ice you're looking for.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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updates....
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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North Ridge Baker was great today...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 13, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Thar she blows!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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always ice in Orient Bay. just bring your Ed Viesturs down suit to climb WI5+ routes
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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Sep 13, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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now i wanna go climb some icebergs!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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North Ridge Baker was great today...
did the other spraymaster attend?
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Piotr
climber
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Sep 13, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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At the moment...
V and U notch - death trap, large amount of rock fall.
North Peak - IN, snow and ice.
Right Mendel - IN but thin.
 Piotr
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Sep 13, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Palisade Glacier Last weekend. The U-notch truly is a shooting gallery.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Thank you guys. Very helpful.
I'll look around for some pictures, but ya late spring early summer can work too, cant remember how that winter was of 1999 but the climbing in there was great.
Would be awesome to look at the photos of that one from when it was in.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Sep 13, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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I don't think I've seen the snowfield on North Pal that small in years
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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or crevasses that big
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Piotr
climber
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Sep 17, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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...bump...
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Gene
climber
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Sep 17, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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The U Notch looks grim in that picture. Yikes!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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I went up Right North Peak couloir and it was neve/snow, with VERY little ice on the side. Still a nice day...
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Sep 17, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Piotr
climber
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Condition bump...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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It's MELTING, Vitaliy!
Bring your KAYAK.
LOL
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harpo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Oct 18, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Any updates? I hear N. Peak is good. Is anything else in?
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
oakland, california
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Oct 18, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
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North Peak is NOT in, unless you count a tiny bit of ice and 90% neve, Right Couloir. Ditto middle. Left couloir is in far better shape, but still not great. left is worth a go at this point if nothing else is in.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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hmmmm with this snow that fell and a period with warmer temps and than colder, I wonder if ice nine could come 'in'....
And how about the waterfall on Drug dome...would be so cool if it came in again
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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drug dome is in every year.
haha, but sometimes the access is not as easy!
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