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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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Any one has any?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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none at all? really?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 28, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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none at all? really? No, cuz ice dilutes the whiskey.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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Stand in line? lol You do not climb many peaks these days The Cragger. : )
Although it is not Sierra, I had good ice conditions on Mt. Shasta this past weekend. We did Hotlum Glacier-left gully direct. Not too steep, but quality ice above the shrund, and especially in the gully.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Aug 28, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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As of about 12 days ago the ice hadn't fully consolidated or been exposed on all but the steepest angles. Maybe 6-10 days.
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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Aug 28, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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^ perfect, that's exactly when i'll be there....but where exactly is there?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
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Yur right. I don't do peaks. I hope you aren't waiting in line to do a peak.
How come you stopped?
I do not wait in lines to do peaks. Although I had to wait in order to climb NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire. First and hopefully the last time this year. There were 5 parties ahead and 6 behind. We got to the base at sunrise. It was ridiculous, never seen anything like it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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Yeah but was it worth the wait? I hope so as its a pretty good route. Funny that i go down to Cali, the most populous state of the bunch, and never line up for anything even on witney, russel or the hulk and you you need to take a ticket in the great white wilderness!
Speaking of which, that stuff on shasta ... i'll be passing through soon and it looks like a good mid way pit stop. Would you recommend that or any other?
It was worth the wait because I wanted to do that climb for so long. Also if one stays positive about the whole thing, the experience will not turn out to be negative (as long as weather is fine). Everyone kept moving well, wasn't too bad. Just weird to have so many people on a peak.
It was pretty fun glacier on Shasta. My favorite route up the peak so far (I have done Casaval ridge, Avalanche gulch, Green Butte, West face, Whitney glacier and this one).
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 28, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Hotlum Glacier Left Gully Direct
My first completed Shasta route. And my first big snow/ice route. Excellent climb.
(Mega thread drift)
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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Aug 28, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Also if one stays positive about the whole thing, the experience will not turn out to be negative sound advice my man, spoken like a true guru
aaaaaaaaaaaaa......couldn't resist that :)
i'll be checkin' out north peak in a week, post up some photos if it's worth while
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2012 - 02:02am PT
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sound advice my man, spoken like a true guru
lol thanks. Seriously though I noticed people always try to find reasons to bail. It is too windy, too crowded, too hot, too cold, too tired, too lame, too rough etc. If you want to do things and enjoy them you gotta keep a positive attitude. When we realized we had that line I can tell you, I was not happy. But after we got started I was happy to get to know parties ahead and behind us. All turned out to be cool people.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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still no updates?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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Thanks for posting these. Any thoughts on Feather or V notch in 2 weeks?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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Feather is lower angle than V-notch? I thought it was similar angle but less rock fall potential?
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Some Random Guy
Trad climber
San Franpsycho (a.k.a. a token of my extreme)
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thanx for that update chief....i'm not gonna bother hiking in there later this week then. looks like a waste if time better spent on some good rock.
so what would you rate the best most classic sierra couloir? or better yet the top 5
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Days are shortening, V.
Throw in "It's too dark."
Very good look at the couloirs, Chief.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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When were you in the Bugaboos, V?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Beginning of August, Mouse. Had 7 days-1 to hike in, 5 to climb, and one to hike out. Short, but had an amazing time. Almost as good as Sierra ; )
Chief, don't you love the scenery around Feather though? It is a lot of hiking, but the area is fantastic.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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80 degree ice on ice nine wont ever happen again.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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a large pile of snow up there might help.
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