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DayWalker
Trad climber
Orange County, California
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Jul 31, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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I remember when I was learning how to rap. My dad taught me the best and safest way he could come up with, by making me rap down a hill. We found a super low angle slab, basically something I could walk right up and down, maybe about 30 feet. Id say in those 30 feet of slab walking, you gained 10 feet of elevation to explain how steep this thing wasnt. We hooked the rap to the tree at the top, and made me basically walk backwards down the hill while rapelling myself.
If something went wrong, well dang I started to walk back up the hill. This seems like a good safe way to teach people, or it worked for me, because when I did mess up, I fell over backwards and got a scrape, not a broken anything.
RIP, its a shame that stuff like this has to happen.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 31, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Did anybody get up to the Weeping Wall last weekend and inspect the Serpentine anchors (or nearby)?
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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I agree with many posts and sympathies expressed above. But absent a total anchor failure, many of the hypothetical possibilities point toward one basic rappelling practice not having been done: clip into the anchor and stay clipped in until the system is fully weighted. Make a last quick visual check, then unclip. Of the handful of rappelling accidents that happen every year, a goodly proportion would have been prevented by this practice, which takes only a matter of seconds, maybe a minute or two total at each station.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jul 31, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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Public discussion is one of the few fixes that will slow down these senseless accidents. Every time I rap I think about the fact that what I am about to do is more likely to kill me than a long runout. the only climbing fatality involving a friend was a rappelling accident. This needs to be discussed, even if it is speculation
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jul 31, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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I believe the accident occured from the anchors at the base of Ten Karat Gold. That would account for the distance (approx. 35') and location. I was there on Sunday and the anchor is still there and bomber, like all anchors on the Weeping wall. The force on an anchor rapelling a slab is very low and these are 3/8" bolts. If the anchor had failed, the pieces would be attached to the rope. Since nothing was found, I would guess she had riged up the rappel directly thru the rings and made a fatal mistake.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 31, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
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My guess is she was using a device that required she put BOTH ropes through, and she only got one in.
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According to Bob Gaines, who's doing a book on rappelling, the above is a common occurrence per rapping accidents. Only one loop makes it way into the biner, so when you lean back, you just whizz off.
JL
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
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God bless ya, Karen. Rest in peace now...
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alleyehave
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Johannsolo, I don't think she fell while rapping from Ten Karat Gold. While thats the last place that any rope was still connected to, she actually fell closer 40ft to the left and down of the tree below Ten karat Gold, placing her in a direct line below the first pitch belay of Serpentine. I think she was rapping from there, either to the ground, or to ten karat gold when the accident occurred.
Like many people here have already noted, unless indisputable evidence points to an improbable anchor failure, most of what we can conclude is pure speculation. But, for what it's worth, from what I saw, I also think that is very likely that due to two ropes being at the base of the rock which were identical in every way, there is a strong possibility that one end of the rope was NOT on the ground. Instead, one end of the rope potentially 30-40ft above the base of the wall. When she looked down, she might have noticed the large amount of rope flaked at the base(the other rope) and figured she was down on both sides, started rappel and came off the end of one of her strands. This could very easily give the impression of a bolt "popping" to the those not knowing better, resulting in a 30+ft fall directly below the Serpentine anchors.
The bottom line is, we likely will never know exactly what happened. However; we can all take away from this, and the unfortunate numerous rap incidents that occur. Almost all rappelling incidents were truly preventable with basic safety measures: bomber anchor, double check carabiners, double check belay devices, double check that both rope ends are equal and reach the next destination with stopper knots on each end.
It is our job to not only check our own rap systems, but our partners and everyone else's, every single rap we do, no matter how many times you've done it. Whether it's the first and only rap of the day, or the 8th descending Royal Arches. You simply cannot be too safe while on rappel. Please be safe and and let's take care of each other.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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To me it is irrelevant what rappel system she employed. Crab brake, figure
8, or the latest and greatest; they all require consistent mental check lists.
If you want to go a couple of steps further make it verbal and touch each
item you are checking like pilots do.
She obviously failed to check something.
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Jul 31, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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My guess is she was using a device that required she put BOTH ropes through, and she only got one in.
I've almost done that!!
I only know of the 5.4 or so
downclimb south of weeping wall, however toward the north of the formation
there was a tree sling, but just further north is a walk off?
yeah, just north of Graham Crackers is a big tree that you can rap, or just downclimb the crack(5.1) below the tree
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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from what I saw, I also think that is very likely that due to two ropes being at the base of the rock which were identical in every way, there is a strong possibility that one end of the rope was NOT on the ground. Instead, one end of the rope potentially 30-40ft above the base of the wall. When she looked down, she might have noticed the large amount of rope flaked at the base(the other rope) and figured she was down on both sides, started rappel and came off the end of one of her strands. This could very easily give the impression of a bolt "popping" to the those not knowing better, resulting in a 30+ft fall directly below the Serpentine anchors.
Among rappelling accidents, this is, unfortunately, another very common one (rappelling off one short end of the rope) and sounds like this is what might have happened in this case.
A good habit is to tie stopper knots in the rope ends as your standard safety procedure (every time), unless there is a very compelling reason not to.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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BG.... respecfully disagree about the always rule.
If you ALWAYS put knots in the end of a rope, one day you will have a stuck rope cause of the knotts.
The most important saftey precaution you can take, IMHO, only.
PAY ATTENTION to everything going on. Starting at your harness buckle, your tie in, your rap rig, your anchor set up, your rope - just exactly where the ends are - any loose stuff you might knock down.
When its just you and your rap rig and air - its like driving 200mph -
FOCUS
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Grampa
climber
Recreational Climber from SoCal
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I always use a nice, big, fat figure eight in the ends of my rappel ropes. Never get stuck, but should it get stuck, just rap down and fix it.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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+1 for Guy's post.
Every rap is different. Factor in everything possible and then double check your systems. When in doubt, I like to say it out loud. Free hanging, double rope raps, after a long day especially. Identical ropes IMO, are a recipe for confusion.
Live more fully today for those who cannot.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Accidents will happen.
As guyman points out, all you can do is focus on the task at hand.
I work with explosives on occasion and it is still more forgiving than rigging for a rappel.
I quietly talk to myself when doing both rigging and wiring. It helps me stay in the moment.
Having conscientious partners like Sam that are there to double/triple check your rig is an intensley valuable tool as well.
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laurel arndt
Trad climber
phoenix
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I just saw this link from Super Topo.
My heart goes out to all involved.
Need to give a huge big shout out to Cal Fire, they are some cool dudes trying to make it happen. On July 7th I was the unfortunate person to take a 25 ft fall onto my bomber #2 cam at the 5.7ish last pitch of White Maidens Walkway. While I had a clean fall over the roof, the force of the fall torqued my ankle so bad that I literally tore my ankle a new as#@&%e.
Cal Fire made three attempts to get me off the ledge. Got the heli ride and ambulance down to Desert (man they've seen some action), 17 stitches in my ankle, no breaks, just ripped/torn ligaments. For you guys who helped thx, I am well, (I don't have any info on you).
BTW, someone stuffed a pair of 5.10 size 6.5 approach shoes in my backpack that finally got back to me. I have posted on MP trying to get them back to the owner. If you know who they might belong to let me know and I'll mail them back
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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I have been following this thread since the first post. It is so sad, truly heartbreaking, to think about. A benevolent young woman, who's good intentions(teaching a GS group)came to such a tragic end.
My heart and prayers go out to all her loved ones. She was a remarkable women who, obviously, had sown many good seeds in her short life.
Good examples of how to share ones life and passions unselfishly with others, particularly our youth, seem to be too few and far between...she will not be forgotten!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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yes, sounds like a mistake which will be difficult to determine fully. lots of good advice here, and it will be interesting to see gaines's book--the subject needs comprehensive treatment. my only advice is: find a way to switch gears mentally when you start rappeling--it's a simple but deceptively dangerous activity. go into defensive mode bigtime. stick with old habits and techniques.
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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RIP and condolences - sad situation.
So she either rapped off the end or failed to get one (or both) of the rap lines through her belay device and belay carabiner.
I bet those girl scouts don't go climbing anytime again soon.
We all make mistakes - hopefully we can slow down Rap Death with more convo.
TC
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
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I always make eye contact with both ends of the rope (or when rappelling a single strand, eye contact with the one end), and if I can not see the ends I pull them up and tie knots. Even after this confirmation of being down, or at least to a safe landing, I continue to monitor the ends as I rap closer to them. Always.
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