Off-width: The Last Bastion of True Climbing

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Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:25am PT
Galen's Crack, Tuolumne
Galen's Crack, Tuolumne
Credit: Fluoride

While I only did it on top rope, I finally got Galen's this year. Going to lead it in 2013 now that I have the sequences dialed.

As Jay would say, take pride in the wide!!!

It's where it's at.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 7, 2012 - 10:58am PT
nice send Fluoride!

donini asks:
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 wide cracks?
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 sport climbs?
big difference
Ask the same question on a crowded night at your local climbing gym.


don't know the answer to that... given that many have trouble with the little bits of OW on Sacherer Crack and Reed's Direct my guess is that the numbers for wide crack leads, even at 5.9 is small.

At the gym they would ask: "what does 'wide crack' mean?"

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:23am PT
"Wyde, don't we choost climb?"
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Nov 7, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Hey there Jay....any sightings of my pup there yet?
frisbee

climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
Feb 18, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Bump for the Wyde!

Question: Am I alone in losing my offwidth technique in the offseason?

We got a bit of a warm spell here in WY so I was out at Vedauwoo on Sunday in mid-February. Both me and my partner got jacked by Handjacker, 5.7+ offwidth. Our main excuse was the icicles inside the crack, but the real culprit was sloppy footwork and general thrashing at the crux. All this after doing pretty good last fall with Vedauwoo .9 and even .10a offwidth.

So, is it true? If you don't use it, do you lose it?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 18, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
You don't lose it, you just have to renew it- the next time will be better.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
watch Mike Friedrichs on Fantasia

http://vimeo.com/6282510


Music... J.S. Bach

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Ed what I want to know is who is playing the organ. The interpretation is uncommon and reminds me of an old friend of mine back in NY last named McNeil Robinson. He recorded a lot of the Bach works for Deutsche Gramophone, but they are not easy to come by.
WBraun

climber
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Off -width

No sane man belongs there .....
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:01am PT
frisbee,

you hit up the Voo in FEB?? If you get another warm spell, PM me. I'm seriously jonesin' for some wide. Sport climbing in the Poudre Canyon just feels so lame in comparison.




edit: Ed, I've climbed Fantasia right side in at the start, then switched and finished it left side in for the rest. However, if you climb right side in (like Mike F. did) from the pod to the top, is it easier?

briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:07am PT
got all three ow at pg sunnyvale down woohoo! stoked to go climb some wide outside soon...never thought i would say that...also never though I would be stoked to "climb" ow in the gym
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Why would ya wanna carry all that big clunky gear, wear heavy clothes, and get all barked up on your knees, shoulders and elbows when you can dangle on steep faces with a rack of ultra light draws?
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:17am PT
Why would ya wanna carry all that big clunky gear, wear heavy clothes, and get all barked up on your knees, shoulders and elbows when you can dangle on steep faces with a rack of ultra light draws?

Because...
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:20am PT
got all three ow at pg sunnyvale down woohoo! stoked to go climb some wide outside soon...

Ummm...


Yer gonna die!!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:25am PT
An appropriate mantra for alpine rock climbs...."go wide or go home." Not always the case but often enough to make OW a part of your repertoire if you're serious about the game.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:30am PT
Ummm...


Yer gonna die!!

Lol walked into that one...but if you only knew how hard one of them is...and the other two aren't that easy.

Although my fondest OW memory is following my buddy up the FA of a 5.11b ow on the Sonora Pass. Not only was it the hardest I've ever worked per inch of upward movement, but the lichen filling my lungs made it even harder haha!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:46am PT
the music is on an mp3 file I have in a folder labeled "Bach>Organ Collection" that has no further attribution... I acquired this from a friend...
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:32am PT
I've crack climbed, and I've face climbed. Face is harder. Face is more aesthetic.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:38am PT
Off topic but in the dialog...

the music is on an mp3 file I have in a folder labeled "Bach>Organ Collection" that has no further attribution... I acquired this from a friend...

Don't you find this disturbing, that such unique performances can be passed along so easily without attribution (or remuneration?)

You have just given a perfect example of why the recording of music as a business is dead.

No continuity. No credit to the various styles of interpretation. All we need to know is that it is Bach. Beyond that who cares?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 03:12am PT
I'm unhappy that I can't attribute the performance, I was wondering why I didn't put it on the video... I'll see if I can track it down.... there are bits of the play list there...

the demise of the record industry is not something I morn... but I think the artists should be benefiting, obviously this is a case where they aren't
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