Off-width: The Last Bastion of True Climbing

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Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
Kali, how did you know if he made it off the ground?








Kidding...love Todd.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 26, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
Good one Fluoride! He probably sent it with no gobies.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 26, 2012 - 08:13pm PT





Offwidth... possibly the FIRST bastion of true climbing. Throw some elbows and knees in, have a sick core, and hope for the best!

I used to do a bit of grappling and it is the closest it feels in climbing to that kind of a workout. Great sh#t.

(I tried to figure out the lip on BBBW and was spit off repeatedly. Just playing on it here)

(yes, I realize for most Men these are fist cracks, but I have a hand of a small woman, BD 3 is almost teacups for me...)
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
Greg, all those folks makes it look like a boulder problem :)

Kidding. Keep killing it.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 26, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
The trick was getting them to hoist me up there for the photo in the first place. That's why I pay my friends to hang out with me!

Hope to see you bunches this season, like normal :) and your friend too! I forgot his name, but he is always a stand up fella.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
That would be Steve. Best partner ever. On the rock and off.

ps Greg - we never left JT this season or any other. Climbed through the summer in the late day shade, only saw other locals (hey there medium Sooze!) and the shady routes that are too cold in the winter were great this summer.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 27, 2012 - 12:05am PT
No bolts at all on the one on the left on that flake (the Passionate Life 5.11+ 2 pitch) guyman and the one the right will now go without the bolts if you have several 9" valleys giants / bigbros.

They're both waiting for a second ascent after 15, 17 years respectively. Though I think Squeezo is going to take care of that.
Master of Kludge

Trad climber
Grizzly Gulch, WY
Sep 27, 2012 - 06:15am PT
The nature of off-widths is that you can find places to hang from your joints and thus stop furthering your advance while you get some kind of a rest.

I would like to contrast the idea of offwidth climbing with what I think is still the last bastion of true climbing.

The routes are the steep (78 - 85 degree) semi-continuous shallow thin cracks of a full rope length. A handful of these exist at Devils Tower. There are no rests on them and small cams are of marginal use. The best protection is RP's and having the skill of sizing the correct choice on the first reach from your rack to crack. And when you master this skill you will feel fine individually racking the pieces for you seldom miss.

I have never seen a sport climber do these routes at the grade they climb sport face. They have not acquired the skill needed for that kind of quickness needed in RP placements. Yes, they fu*k around with small cams and eventually fatigue.

And for you Taco listeners it was a person from the "Valley" that told me what RP means when I suggested such a route to him. RP's = Rotten Protection. So before you consider offwidths the final answer to this blog question come and do Hollow Men or Refractal.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Sep 27, 2012 - 07:06am PT
Credit: WML
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 27, 2012 - 07:11am PT
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 wide cracks?
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 sport climbs?
big difference
Ask the same question on a crowded night at your local climbing gym.
Master of Kludge

Trad climber
Grizzly Gulch, WY
Sep 27, 2012 - 07:55am PT
Would only a Hollow Man ask such a question?
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Sep 27, 2012 - 07:57am PT
And for you Taco listeners it was a person from the "Valley" that told me what RP means when I suggested such a route to him. RP's = Rotten Protection. So before you consider offwidths the final answer to this blog question come and do Hollow Men or Refractal.

It is key to be solid from THIN to WYDE. I'm still werkin on the thin thing
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 27, 2012 - 09:08am PT
No bolts at all on the one on the left on that flake (the Passionate Life 5.11+ 2 pitch) guyman and the one the right will now go without the bolts if you have several 9" valleys giants / bigbros.

They're both waiting for a second ascent after 15, 17 years respectively. Though I think Squeezo is going to take care of that.

I first saw those back in 88 while taking the long way home from Courtwright, the wife wanted to kill me when we were going over those one lane bridges.

Truly remarkable climbs, long,bold and unrelenting.

Good job on the FA.

So there is a trail of sorts?

Any other climbs right there at the flake? - not OW?

My friends have done some climbs way down on the left end of Patterson, on a little chip of stone not part of the main complex.

They did a climb named: In Sickness and Stealth, 5.11,4 pitches of low angle, pure friction. Chris tells me its so low angle its ridiculous, looks like you could untie and walk off at any point... but you can't.

IMHO..... all climbing is TRUE CLIMBING but some climbing is harder than others.

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 27, 2012 - 10:54am PT
I first saw those back in 88 while taking the long way home from Courtwright, the wife wanted to kill me when we were going over those one lane bridges.

Your wife would find an ally in mine, guyman. I first climbed at Patterson Bluff in December of 1970, but near the left end of the cliff with the flake Mark Powell first climbed in the fifties. There were OW's all over the place, and we did a lot of good climbs. We also cheated and used a bit of aid. Interestingly, I went back there alone in late 1972 and free soloed the route that I'd originally aided, so I guess my technique must have improved in those two years!

Sad to say, I haven't been back there with climbing gear since the late 1980's, although Jaybro and scuffy b allegedly head that way, so I'm rather tempted to head there again. The temptation is particularly strong because about half of the time, I can see Patterson Bluff quite clearly on my commute home.

Although the rock isn't the greatest, there's so much to do there, and the isolation reminds me of what climbing was like when I first started in the late 1960's.

John
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
IMHO..... all climbing is TRUE CLIMBING but some climbing is harder than others.

That crap David Palmada pulled at the Fischer Towers is NOT true climbing, even though he was technically ascending a wall.

Point, counter-point.

Erik
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Sep 27, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
"What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 wide cracks?
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 sport climbs?"


who cares. I'll be out at Poland Hill in The Voo on Sunday. Heard there's plenty of 5.9 out there. Be there or be square.

I'll report back next week, with pictures of suffering!

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 5, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
bump
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Nov 6, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
well I posted this pic already......but why not again?

getting started on Fantasia. Had to get a piece in before going right-side-in.
Credit: gonzo chemist

Silver

Ice climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 07:03am PT
Bump
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Nov 7, 2012 - 07:16am PT
bump it!
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