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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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mountain project calls it .13a..
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Great shot of Croft looking super honed.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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I meant only that the Zombie crack is irregular, and so placing reliable upside down pins in it might have been a challenge even for Daryl, who knew more than any of us about placing pins. Which may help explain why the master nailer used nuts instead
well, its not one of those drop-them-in-from-the-top deals, but the nuts were fixed when i went up there. deep crack with some slots. i suppose darryl could've whaled skinny angles up in there, but it's squamish and they would've rotted out. plus the fixed perlon looked a lot more separate reality.
objectively speaking, a v5 or v6 roof at that height is not as numerically impressive as some of the other current hi-ball stiff, but it's a thin roof w/o a posse and pads.
commitment on bouldering or soloing a serious roof is up there. and that one would be f*#ked to reverse. at the lip, yr only option would be to hang and drop. i assume that's part of his drill there at the lip, where you get a decent hand jam. then you make the decision to commit to that doorjamb out left-- u can watch him lock on that and then reset the hand above.
the lip was far as i got. my memories are pretty shaky, and i couldn't turn the lip on that thing when i tried it bitd. so it was cool to have the vid. watching him on that move right above the lip was pretty sobering. that was the part i was most curious about. it's always sketchy going from locker burly moves to skinnier, more delicate stuff, especially if u know u can't downclimb or drop.
props to will.
ps-- perry looks suspiciously young, thin and prosperous in his interview.
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bullfrog
Trad climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:32am PT
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mountain project calls it .13a..
Mountain project can be great for finding routes / route beta but they also call anything with more than one or two bolts "sport", anything all gear "trad" and anything that is bolted that takes a cam or nut in one place "mixed". A severe perversion of the terms to say the least.
Then there are the route grades <squish!>. Ones that have seen a multitude of ascents are more accurate but It looks like only 2 people weighed in on this one so...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Here's a rhetorical question for you. Q: If it is 12d to pinkpoint on fixed gear and 13a to place gear on then do you call it 12d or 13a solo?
A: Trick question. If you didn't use a rope it's 3rd class.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^
But high in the grade.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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AWESOME!!
(Except I hate Lameo, the slowest loading vids in the world)
Tami's pic is in there at 1:55!
Gawd, when he talked about "The Valley" 76, it just made all these memories, light, smells, stone, the feeling in my soul that I was in the right place just come flooding back. I damn near popped a tear gasket....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Thread drift. Does anybody know that Tina Turner was a backup singer on the original Zombie Woof?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Thought this was about Zombie Woof and thought to myself, "who the hell is free soloing that thing in the summer at Josh?!?"
haha! Me, too.
Watched Jerry Moffat lead the JT Zombie Woof, second ascent maybe? back in 1982.
This one looks a tad harder, eh!
Really nice video. With the climbing, every move seemed deliberate, careful, just right. Like he brought each move down to a 5.7 level of effort.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Although Honnold will probably show up in JT in the winter and get bored and just solo it for a pre-breakfast warm-up. Who knows...
Won't he have trouble doing that since the route in question is in Squamish for fux sake?
And Khanom counted like 6-8n moves to talk this down? Ever considered that he's got the f*#k wired? Isn't this the man that did Southern Belle where us mortals dare not tread? C'mon man, give the dude some credit!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Ooops, sorry Khanom, about the counting thing, my fault.
But about the camera thing, I kinda agree. But on the other hand, I sure wish I had footage of me doing the first solo of Karate Crack at Smith, back in the dinosaur days, to share with my kids if nothing else.
But the real question is: Did you watch?
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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wtf, don't watch if you don't want to.
It was a pretty rad display of climbing skill. Dude made that thing look like it had sinker jams the whole way, which it doesn't (so it sounds).
I personally don't always dig the lots of talking, lots of time-lapse clouds and only a bit of climbing vids, this one was well done. No surprise it's from BC.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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The offwidth, poop guy was Kruk of recent Compressor route (in)fame(y).
Gotta keep this history stuff straight.
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Great video. Will looks so solid. Amazing year freeing the prophet, pan am, giraffe, soloing zombie roof.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
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why do yanks ask stupid questions?
Why are my Canadian brothers dumber than rocks?
I don't know. Maybe because you guys don't have good enough weed....
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 17, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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the Canuck/Yank rivalry banter is always fun. But trying to diss Canadian weed is kinda fail. Stick to laughing at their navy or their beer, use of the word hoser and eh? Or many other creative ideas..
Canadian weed is one of their strong points.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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One of the first attempts at ZW, in July 1978. Randy A on the sharp end. This may have led to Randy sacrificing his nuts so that Daryl could fix them in the roof.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 17, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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Really enjoyed the video, the historical perspective, Will's comments and the climbing. Well done on all accounts.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
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Well, I was supposed to be belaying.. I may have another slide or two, given the novelty of the attempt, but will have to look around. Not sure I'd want to post them. IIRC, I was pleased to get to a point hanging upside down when my turn came, but Randy got further out.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Jul 17, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Nicely done video!
I've always known Will as a mellow and humble kid with a lot of climbing talent. I respect him for who he is as a person, more than his climbing abilities.
Bravo!
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