Discussion Topic |
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
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bump.
beat me to it by a minute!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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6:04 for bizzness!!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
the green triangle, cali
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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damn, pretty solid
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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So Sick. Job well done Will, thanks for the link Steve.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
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It doesn't even count if it's in canadia, does it?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 16, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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he made that look so easy
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jul 16, 2012 - 08:05pm PT
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Well done.
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perswig
climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Props to David Pearson for a well-done clip - beautiful piece.
Oh, some climbing, too!
Dale
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 16, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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Scrambling is So sick
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jul 16, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Nice.Really solid.Thanks for the link.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Beautiful. The climb and the film. Well done to all. Thanks for the share.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jul 16, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
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Obviously someone struggles up 5.6, and has the in-superiority complex.
Let them do what they want you tool.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jul 16, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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That was fun to watch! I liked the hang just before pulling up onto the wall-after all, we all love a jam we can hang from... at least I do.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 16, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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Beautiful short film. Beautiful climbing. So well done on all levels.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Soloing for the camera... it just doesn't get lamer than that.
I watched it. It was cool.
I've never been there, that big ass roof asks you to try me.
What's a matter khanom? You either watch in person or here on internet.
Either way we watch and it's cool.
The first guy talking looks familiar.
It's all good man ....
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Very impressive! Thanks for the post.
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Brian
climber
California
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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Thought this was about Zombie Woof and thought to myself, "who the hell is free soloing that thing in the summer at Josh?!?"
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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What a shame. A once proud 5.12d route is now just another V5 boulder problem. Haha.
Curt
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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I counted 7-8 moves.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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my guess is that the zombie woof at jtree hasnt been soloed yet, summer, winter or whatever. similar height and angle and difficulty. but that's about it. zw at squamish is a real crack. the jtree one looks like a real crack, but isnt.
tx for the link
that move getting established over the roof looks sketchier than i would've imagined.
i didn't get that far myself.
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Jul 16, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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I'm twice as shaky and twice as slow getting over the Nutcracker mantle.
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Walking it! BUMP
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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Soloing for the camera... it just doesn't get lamer than that.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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That was really well done - walked under that thing many times, as well as the rain-shelter speculations after getting weathered off the closer easy routes..
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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thanks for posting the link,
great video, well done...
always inspirational to see what people do with their climbing, and especially how far they push it
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I aided it once, and felt quite proud.
Now I feel like a wienie.
Sigh.
(That's a remarkably well-filmed account. Much enjoyed.)
Edit: That's kind, E, except that the whole thing is A1-....it would be A0 if not for the moss...
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 16, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
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Don't feel like a weenie! The ground-fall potential at every aid move would be completely fukking gripping! That was part of our weather-covered perceptions...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Theres a real good A3 that comes in via seams from way on the left and cuts thru Zombie at right angles...
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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"Solo" I was thinking a route but that was a highball boulder. Cool but looked like bouldering, talked more than climbed. Still cool.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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oh Tami,
Perry posts as Chief
the avatar The Chief is someone else entirely...
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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Bouldered higher "routes" at the Buttermilks just bouldering at V4.....bouldering.........................................not the difficulty but the length that counts(please insert "that's what she said joke" here).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Zomby Woof, as apparently it ought to be spelt, came on the radar in 1978, soon after climbers started going to the Little Smoke Bluffs. It seemed like something interesting to try, but equipment at the time wasn't up to it. Not a good crack for pitons, and BC (before cams). We all owe Daryl thanks for aiding across the roof, fixing a nut every metre or so, so that it could be protected and those who wished could flail. I don't remember when the nuts were finally removed, but they were REALLY fixed. The crux at the lip stopped everyone until the early 1980s, and IIRC Peter freed it in 1982, but not onsight. Not sure when the first true onsight ascent was.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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Apparently, this video was the second time Will soloed it. The first time, he just did it for the sake of doing it, then I guess thought it would make a good addition to the Mountain Festival.
I hope to at least free it with a rope at some point. Good on Will. He does a great job of describing soloing.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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I've aided that woof on two rainy Squamish days, and one certainly wouldn't want to deck coming out of there. It's not a splitter by any means... Odd sizes, constrictions, flakes and such. Felt all the jams last time around, as a friend wanted beta for TRing it afterwards and it's a pretty stellar send WITH a rope. Getting established over the lip seemed like the crux to me, and my partner who got more intimate with it.
There's one bomber hand down low, a little pocket just up to the left, and flared fingery stuff just up from there before moving left to easier ground. Not all that great, really.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 01:52am PT
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Will Stanhope is one of the climbers that repeated Southern Belle, right?
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Yes.
He was working on the prophet with Sonny Trotter last fall, too.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:55am PT
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"wanktastic young punk"
you really nailed it, Khanom. That's Will to a "T." Absolutely a wanktastic young punk. TOTALLY. Man, you are SOOOO right. What a bastard! Man, that Will Stanhope. A total wanker. AND a punk. F*#k that guy.
But seriously...like Brian, I saw the title and thought, "holy shit! who the f*#k solos "Zombie Woof!" Although Honnold will probably show up in JT in the winter and get bored and just solo it for a pre-breakfast warm-up. Who knows...
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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If I recall correctly the only way off of the JT Zombie Woof formation is a simul rap or downclimbing .11 or so?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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I meant only that the Zombie crack is irregular, and so placing reliable upside down pins in it might have been a challenge even for Daryl, who knew more than any of us about placing pins. Which may help explain why the master nailer used nuts instead, plus that the crack offered better placements even for 1978 era nuts - although admittedly Daryl may have tapped one or two of them!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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mountain project calls it .13a..
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Great shot of Croft looking super honed.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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I meant only that the Zombie crack is irregular, and so placing reliable upside down pins in it might have been a challenge even for Daryl, who knew more than any of us about placing pins. Which may help explain why the master nailer used nuts instead
well, its not one of those drop-them-in-from-the-top deals, but the nuts were fixed when i went up there. deep crack with some slots. i suppose darryl could've whaled skinny angles up in there, but it's squamish and they would've rotted out. plus the fixed perlon looked a lot more separate reality.
objectively speaking, a v5 or v6 roof at that height is not as numerically impressive as some of the other current hi-ball stiff, but it's a thin roof w/o a posse and pads.
commitment on bouldering or soloing a serious roof is up there. and that one would be f*#ked to reverse. at the lip, yr only option would be to hang and drop. i assume that's part of his drill there at the lip, where you get a decent hand jam. then you make the decision to commit to that doorjamb out left-- u can watch him lock on that and then reset the hand above.
the lip was far as i got. my memories are pretty shaky, and i couldn't turn the lip on that thing when i tried it bitd. so it was cool to have the vid. watching him on that move right above the lip was pretty sobering. that was the part i was most curious about. it's always sketchy going from locker burly moves to skinnier, more delicate stuff, especially if u know u can't downclimb or drop.
props to will.
ps-- perry looks suspiciously young, thin and prosperous in his interview.
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bullfrog
Trad climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:32am PT
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mountain project calls it .13a..
Mountain project can be great for finding routes / route beta but they also call anything with more than one or two bolts "sport", anything all gear "trad" and anything that is bolted that takes a cam or nut in one place "mixed". A severe perversion of the terms to say the least.
Then there are the route grades <squish!>. Ones that have seen a multitude of ascents are more accurate but It looks like only 2 people weighed in on this one so...
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Here's a rhetorical question for you. Q: If it is 12d to pinkpoint on fixed gear and 13a to place gear on then do you call it 12d or 13a solo?
A: Trick question. If you didn't use a rope it's 3rd class.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^
But high in the grade.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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AWESOME!!
(Except I hate Lameo, the slowest loading vids in the world)
Tami's pic is in there at 1:55!
Gawd, when he talked about "The Valley" 76, it just made all these memories, light, smells, stone, the feeling in my soul that I was in the right place just come flooding back. I damn near popped a tear gasket....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Thread drift. Does anybody know that Tina Turner was a backup singer on the original Zombie Woof?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Thought this was about Zombie Woof and thought to myself, "who the hell is free soloing that thing in the summer at Josh?!?"
haha! Me, too.
Watched Jerry Moffat lead the JT Zombie Woof, second ascent maybe? back in 1982.
This one looks a tad harder, eh!
Really nice video. With the climbing, every move seemed deliberate, careful, just right. Like he brought each move down to a 5.7 level of effort.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Although Honnold will probably show up in JT in the winter and get bored and just solo it for a pre-breakfast warm-up. Who knows...
Won't he have trouble doing that since the route in question is in Squamish for fux sake?
And Khanom counted like 6-8n moves to talk this down? Ever considered that he's got the f*#k wired? Isn't this the man that did Southern Belle where us mortals dare not tread? C'mon man, give the dude some credit!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Ooops, sorry Khanom, about the counting thing, my fault.
But about the camera thing, I kinda agree. But on the other hand, I sure wish I had footage of me doing the first solo of Karate Crack at Smith, back in the dinosaur days, to share with my kids if nothing else.
But the real question is: Did you watch?
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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wtf, don't watch if you don't want to.
It was a pretty rad display of climbing skill. Dude made that thing look like it had sinker jams the whole way, which it doesn't (so it sounds).
I personally don't always dig the lots of talking, lots of time-lapse clouds and only a bit of climbing vids, this one was well done. No surprise it's from BC.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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The offwidth, poop guy was Kruk of recent Compressor route (in)fame(y).
Gotta keep this history stuff straight.
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Great video. Will looks so solid. Amazing year freeing the prophet, pan am, giraffe, soloing zombie roof.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
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why do yanks ask stupid questions?
Why are my Canadian brothers dumber than rocks?
I don't know. Maybe because you guys don't have good enough weed....
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 17, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
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the Canuck/Yank rivalry banter is always fun. But trying to diss Canadian weed is kinda fail. Stick to laughing at their navy or their beer, use of the word hoser and eh? Or many other creative ideas..
Canadian weed is one of their strong points.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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One of the first attempts at ZW, in July 1978. Randy A on the sharp end. This may have led to Randy sacrificing his nuts so that Daryl could fix them in the roof.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 17, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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Really enjoyed the video, the historical perspective, Will's comments and the climbing. Well done on all accounts.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
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Well, I was supposed to be belaying.. I may have another slide or two, given the novelty of the attempt, but will have to look around. Not sure I'd want to post them. IIRC, I was pleased to get to a point hanging upside down when my turn came, but Randy got further out.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Jul 17, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Nicely done video!
I've always known Will as a mellow and humble kid with a lot of climbing talent. I respect him for who he is as a person, more than his climbing abilities.
Bravo!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
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maybe it should be more like this video:
http://vimeo.com/42766671
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Khanom- I agree with your point and see it entirely. Encouraging people to solo ever harder climbs for fame or snowboarder/skiers to jump 200+ foot gaps on the regular is not a sustainable practice. That being said I do not believe that was Will's motivation in this case.
Like Nate said already Will soloed it twice. The first time was for him, and the second time was for the production.
Kind of like Honnold's ascent of Half Dome. If you watch the start of the video, you can see how much time and effort went into this ascent. Listen to what Will has to say.
Cool photo Anders!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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Haven't even gotten to the main event. Seeing Perry reminisce, a friend I haven't seen in 30+ years, makes this an A+ thread already.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Will's a solid guy and I know for fact that the world hasn't heard about most of his hard free solos. Another nice video - not soloing, but Indian Creek FA:
Down in Albion
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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nice yosemite mug!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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Super sick! Soooooo Solid!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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bitchen' fedora too.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
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I think Will is damn solid all around.
Jeez, Anders, ever heard of photo-shop? That picture is obviously "original".
I cleaned it up for you - let me know if you want me to pull it, copyright and all that:
Edit: OK, I grey-scaled it. Not as clear, but something better than a peer into the murky?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
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There isn't any orange rock at Squamish. What is this "photo shop" of which you speak, that so wantonly defaces our stone? Have you been spending too much time in Arizona, and other places with an abundance of orange "rock"? Perhaps that's skewed your perspective, or at least tinted your spectacles.
Squamish photo: Rock grey. Sky grey. Climber grey. OK?
ps Shades of grey acceptable.
MH photo: generally murky.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 17, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Hmm, hard to tell between orange and grey. What thinketh the peanut gallery?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 17, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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It's all good.
Beats a poli-thread any day.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 18, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Great videos, both of 'em in this thread.
Stanhope also got the 2nd (and only repeat?) of Sasquatch, that horrific boulder problem on the LeConte. Ever felt the 'locks' in that thing?
http://vimeo.com/35199845
Somewhere on here I mentioned I got to watch him send the Monster Offwidth, wasn't happy with how it went, get lowered back to the anchor above the Ear, and fire it again.
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Double D
climber
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Jul 18, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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Incredibly smooth climbing and interesting, well produced video. Great intro with Perry who looks remarkably the same as in the late '70s.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 18, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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He makes that look dang easy!
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Jul 18, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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mad cool solo. well done will. great music too.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Jul 18, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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it looks like he has it so wired he could down climb it.....amazing
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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Jul 18, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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And to the fool moron yanksoft who dissed our Navy ? It may be small but it's fierce.
you made me spill my milk Tami
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 18, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Looks like the crux is exiting the roof to the headwall?
Cool Vid.
Prod.
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Jul 18, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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I enjoyed the video but I kinda agree with khanom--soloing for the camera becomes a circus stunt and loses some of the aura of soloing for yourself.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 18, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Did he ever say he's soloing for himself?
You did.
So you solo for yourself and let others solo for their reasons.
If someone wants to solo for the whole world you all think it's wrong?
Free soloing only means without rope and gear.
Nothing to do with all this other bullsh!t.
You're nuts ......
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 18, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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I remember reading in the 1985 Campbell guide that this thing was "5.11+ to the lip" which is apparently some kind of sandbag
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Ha, Magic Ed's on here! How are things in the Potrero, Ed?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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I thought Dave did a good job on the video of Will scrambling on the Zombie. Will's a sincere, dedicated and talented young climber and I was honored to be asked to show my mug and say a few words.
Will and his friends are continuing the trend set by the likes of Sutton and Burton, Croft and Fraser (and many of us lower life forms) and embracing a strong relationship with The Valley, it's itinerant denizens and the bigger world of climbing outside Squamish.
His solo of the Zombie is no hare brained publicity grab but rather, an expression of dedication and mastery in the finest traditions of granite free climbing.
When I lurched over the lip on the second ascent many years ago, I would have hurled at the thought of someone soloing it. Well, things certainly have changed and each generation forges ahead and raises the bar.
To keep things in perspective, Will 3rd classed the Alaska Highway a while back and word around the campfire is that he's hiked Sentry Box and Separate Reality as well.
Great stuff, way to go Will and nice bit of film making on Dave's part.
PB
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Nicely said Perry, and good narrative on the video. It helped those very familiar and and clueless about the Zombie Woof, put in perspective Will's ascent.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Jul 19, 2012 - 03:42am PT
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Chief,
Both you and Will seemed very genuine and filled with awesomeness.
In a day and age where I connect with fewer and fewer climbers, I would be stoked to share a campfire with either of you.
Thanks to all invovled for some filmmaking with genuine character.
or maybe it's just cuz your all candadian, and not 'mercans.
I found your commentary as inspiring as Will's sending.
Cheers!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 19, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Great video, liked the history of the route, then the history of the climber and route, finally the climber making history on the route. Thanks for the video link S. Leeper.
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br60
Trad climber
Jasper, Alberta to the Wet Coast
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Jul 19, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Great film! I especially enjoyed Perry's very articulate commentary. Nice to see/hear him - a good choice for the backstory.
br
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Nice job Perry.
Like John Bachar said years ago, there is no feeling like hanging off a bomber finger lock way off the ground, with both feet pasted on the rock and the other hand in the chalkbag; it is a feeling of total control, physically and mentally. Something along those lines anyway.
Will kind of reminds me of myself, a couple of generations ago. I even used to look like him, just shorter, weaker, and not nearly as good. I'm thinking we both used the same brand hairbrush.
Will has developed a skill level that is off the charts, both physical and mental. He is unquestionably world-class at what he does and we should all be extremely proud of this quiet guy from North Vancouver.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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I guess, like the brush, that one went over your head. I'm 47 and still don't own a hairbrush.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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Well done video, not at all over-produced, as someone upthread said. I enjoyed Perry's commentary, and Will made the climbing look so easy. I had the privilege of meeting Will the other night. Gentle, funny, unassuming guy, climbing at a level so far off the scale I can't begin to comprehend it.
Great job, Will!
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TFPU
Sport climber
Idaho
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Soloing for the camera... it just doesn't get lamer than that.
Where does bagging on other climbers on an internet forum fall on the "doesn't get lamer than that list"?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
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A boy and his dog. Plus Will regularly climbs with his father.
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VTP
Boulder climber
ATX
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
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pretty amazing video i thought.
stanhope is one of the strongest in the world and so humble to boot.
Cant beat it. that video gets me psyched!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Not to take anything away from a bold free solo and I'm sure Will is a fabulous climber who just makes it look that easy, but is that really a 12d? Are the holds / jams up in the crack really that insecure? Will's talent aside, from the moves and the holds that are visible it just doesn't look 12d to me as someone who's done a lot of roofs in the past.
I asked Anders and he verified that is the correct rating, but it just doesn't look like it from the video. Anyone here been on it - is that rating hard, soft, just right?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 19, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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I would imagine that if he couldn't make 12d look like 10a he wouldn't be able to free solo it .. at least not with honest confidence.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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It's pretty simple. Will makes it look like 5.10 because he's so damn gooood. It's like watching Bachar solo routes; 5.7, 5.12, who knows? You certainly can't (couldn't) tell from watching.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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ok vid, but really nice music
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jul 19, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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That was beautiful!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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One sure way to confirm the grade.......hop on eh?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 19, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Woooof wooooooof tha zombie wooooof!
Hehe, that ain't no 5.10 wooof. Har har. Thats just Will making wooofs look easy.
Ya in this thread, Chief got the second ascent on it and Hamish F has done it too. Were those ascents with pre placed gear?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jul 19, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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This may be important to some or amount to "picking flyshit out of pepper" to others.
As I understand it, there were a couple pieces originally placed on aid, fixed in the roof when it was first freed.
On the second ascent, I cleaned out the fixed gear and placed my own gear, free on lead "yo yo ing" my way to the lip ("California Pinkpoint"?).
Don't know who did the first redpoint or on sight flash.
Either way, it would be a lot harder hanging in there placing the gear in one go.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 19, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Man I hate pickin flyshit outta pepper. I think I enjoyed a combo, some fixed gear and a few of my own friends. I remember fighting it out at the lip for awhile, eventually plummeting off, lowered to the ground and pulled the rope, as that was the style in the old days. It would've been purer to rip all the gear out and then place it again but I'm not sure I had the ability for that, or the patience. Got it next go, ten minutes later, once the blood emptied out of my arms. Phew.
24 years later and I'm going to see how badly I can embarass myself in a mtn. bike race on the weekend. Will has got me psyched... thank god I don't have to leave the ground.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 19, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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wow history right here on ST
So cool to see the progression
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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This is why I posted this; thanks for the awesome history lesson!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 19, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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I'm usually pretty critical of soloists and find most of what they have to say about their activities to be disturbing. This one didn't seem so bad, though.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Jul 19, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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Probably looked so good because he decided to solo it, as opposed to it soloing him. Seems likely he has more climbing mileage than the combined bottom 50% of st "contributors."
Ratings probably only apply loosely. Didn't M. Reardon toprope ebgbs 50x before soloing it? (it's only 10d, right?)
Probably looked a hell of a lot scarier than zombie by its nature. I haven't seen the footage.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 19, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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One sure way to confirm the grade.......hop on eh?
I will probably beeline for it if I make it up that way, would like to check that out sometime.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 20, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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I will probably beeline for it if I make it up that way, would like to check that out sometime.
Not all that far from Portland, and I expect there'll be a warm welcome laid on if you let folks know you're headed up. They offered to throw beer cans at me if I got on an easy 5.10 toprope, so no telling what kind of extravaganza they'll lay on for someone who says he's going to lead the Zombie.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 20, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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They edited the "pelting with beer cans" part out of the video.
For Yanks, we might use a 105 mm howitzer. Should be a good fit.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jul 22, 2012 - 03:51am PT
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Stanhope is one of the climbers that repeated Southern Belle, right?
http://willstanhope.blogspot.com/2010/11/southern-belle.html
"On Nov 1, Alex Honnold and I repeated the Southern Belle on the South Face of Half Dome. It was first climbed in 1987 by Walt Shipley and Dave Schultz and freed the next year by Schultz and Scott Cosgrove. In 2006, Leo Houlding and Dean Potter made the second free ascent.
Hazel left to go back to the UK on October 8th, which left me a few weeks before I had to leave Yosemite too. Jason Kruk and I had an Arc'teryx photo gig to attend in Joshua Tree on Nov 5. Alex and I had made plans to climb together and were shooting ideas around on email. We hoped to get on a big wall but October's weather was surprisingly unstable. Storms were rolling in every week, it seemed. Perhaps a one-day mission was the go? The idea of climbing the Southern Belle had been floating around in my head for a few years. I popped the idea to Alex. He responded, "Everything I can find on the internet says that it's certain death, but I guess you never know till you try."
As soon as I figured it was game-on, I cranked up the Strokes on the I-pod and hiked the three hours to the south face in a raging rainstorm. I stashed a rope, rock shoes and water at the base.
When we arrived at our stash on try number 1, the rope and shoes, despite being wrapped in multiple plastic bags was all wet. There was verglas on the approach, and we hoping that route was icy, too. It was one of those days where we were looking for any excuse to bail.
On that first attempt we both onsighted to the crux, a 12d near vertical pitch of micro-holds. We spent a few hours try to figure this pitch out. Alex tried, I tried, then Alex tried again. A real head-scratcher. Finally, Alex saw through the sequence and we both dialed it in. The next pitch, named 'the Cuntress' by Walt Shipley, is a 150 foot left leaning micro-seam protected by very small wires. Leo told me to bring a double set of micro-wires, and that beta was critical. Its graded 12a, but the grade doesn't really do it justice. I spent about an hour trying to onsight it, and grabbed a cam a stone's throw from the top. I dropped about six of Alex's nuts in the process and arrived at the belay completely fried. Alex, terrified at the belay, stopped looking up and just payed out slack.
It was obvious the route wasn't going down that day, but we were psyched. Alex arrived at the belay bug-eyed, and said, "this route is a good adventure!" We rapped down, had pizza at Curry Village with Alex's girlfriend Stacey, and made plans for the next round.
The next round came about a week later. We blasted the first few pitches pretty quick. Alex led the fourth pitch, and I took a few falls on toprope, then sent it from a mini-ledge, no hands stance about 15 feet above the last anchor. From there we didn't fall again. The Cuntress went smoothly. Just knowing what was in store for me made all the difference.
From there we were adrift in a sea of open slabs, tick-tacking our way to the bolts, trying to make good decisions. I was concentrating really hard, and don't remember much. Dean Potter told me it was the only route that made him feel nauseous from the runouts. I can relate.
We swung leads to the top. Just as the sun started setting we pulled over the top of Half Dome. My feet hurt like hell and we were thirsty. We dunked our heads in puddles and sucked back as much H20 as possible. "Maybe there will be base-jumping chicks at the top with cookies!" said Alex. No such luck.
We loped down the tourist path, drained of adrenaline."
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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awesome write up biotch! in other news RIP Mr Jefferson!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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love this line "Dean Potter told me it was the only route that made him feel nauseous from the runouts. I can relate.
"
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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I've noticed this hypocrisy, too.
I hate to see everyone agreeing, it's booooooooooooooring.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 25, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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I thought that was a great piece of video. Cool young man. Judging by the size of the beer mug in front of him, he's helping keep other old Squamish traditions alive, eh?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 25, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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He walks it!
Soloing stuff isn't such a great professional move as he can't endorse his cams or rope, and like Dean Potter, doesn't seem to care for fancy climbing pants either.
Kudos and OK letting a thousand flowers bloom.
I think there's a clear difference between naysaying and congratulating and naysaying the naysayers is just giving a taste of the medicine they are providing so I don't see the hypocrisy in the attitude that "Mean people suck"
Peace
Karl
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Jul 25, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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Funny how it's OK to express the opinion "It's awesome" but it's not OK to express the opinion "It's lame".
No one wants to be faced with the ultimate - being called a hater.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jul 26, 2012 - 12:28am PT
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:35am PT
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**No one?
Perhaps some people don't give a sh#t...**
As regards my hater comment:
A bit of sarcasm on my part . . . Conformity and herd instinct are quite common among people who practice climbing as a hobby. If someone thinks critically, expresses skepticism, or crosses the party line - he/she is a hater.
If you have Jim Perrin's biography of Whillans, read what what Whillans said about Mark Spitz winning all those golds (?7) in the Olympics.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 20, 2012 - 02:59am PT
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Here's a little perspective for those that might think this was easy......
Zombie Roof, looking straight up out of the initial corner
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